I'm about to get a Frontera 145cv/HP hybrid

Its an edition model i guess;

+tech pack

+inteli seats

+Roof and rims white

+24k km

Was a dealership service car, wich means that isnt GS with those trims, but more like a demo car with the extras that can come with and expected to be sold as new in terms of the conditions/warranty wise

They are asking 21k€

Think its a good deal price wise and user wise.

"They built millions of them, but this one holds a piece of my soul. Glad to be here with fellow car lovers. Cheers from my Astra G! 🍻"

Hi, anyone saw this error on Opel Astra K (2016, 1.6 tdi).

Service: Vehicle soon

Car has no issue, run smoothky as usual. Shows (not always) when I start engine.

Hello,
I recently acquired a 2012 Opel Astra J GTC. I am in love with the car, but sadly it does not have any bluetooth functionality. I know that the factory bluetooth option can make and answer calls using the steering wheel buttons and such, as well as listen to music, which is what I would like to replicate.

My Research:

I found out there used to be a company called MetaSystem making some aftermarket bluetooth kits that interfaced directly with the CAN bus and adding the functionality on top, but they seem to be pretty impossible to find in 2026.

I also found some newer kits from a company called VOCOM, which seem fine, but all of them say "For Opel Astra H" which if I remember right, is the model after mine, so I'm left wondering for compatibility. They're also not very cheap lol

I know there are some Android tablet kits that fit in place of the original display and such but I really do not like those. I would love to keep the original car's display and everything as instact as possible.

Question:

Does anybody know any other options? How much do they cost?

Hi everyone,
A few days ago, my car overheated. Before that, I had tried to help it with the DPF regeneration. For the past few months, I’ve been getting the error message “Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Performance.”
Since then, my RPMs have also started fluctuating during cold starts. However, I was getting fed up with the car because something was always breaking or going wrong, so I kept putting it off and ignored the issue.
Just for some background information: the timing belt, including the water pump and everything else, was replaced a few thousand kilometers ago, probably around 5,000–6,000 km.
A few days ago, the car suddenly overheated.
I pulled over onto the hard shoulder and waited for a while. After clearing the fault codes, I was able to drive home without any problems.
That same evening, or possibly the following day, I took the car for a spirited drive to see if the issue had just been a one-off. At that point, everything seemed to be working fine.
A few days later, the day before yesterday, the car overheated again. A few minutes later, after clearing the fault codes again, everything worked fine, and I was able to make it home without any issues.
The error code that kept coming up was:
P2084 – Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor 2 Performance
This had been going on for around five months. I’m only now realizing that I’ve been putting this off for far too long.
Anyway, these are the fault codes I’m getting now:
P2084 – DPF – Regeneration time
P247A – DPF – Regeneration time
P2428 – DPF – Regeneration time
What could be causing this? Could it simply be a faulty exhaust gas temperature sensor 2? My mechanic said that the sensor was probably on its way out, and I’ve ordered a replacement.
Is the car actually overheating, or could it be a faulty coolant temperature sensor giving intermittent readings? Or could the DPF be clogged as a result of the faulty sensor?
I know it’s impossible to diagnose a car remotely, but I’d really appreciate your thoughts and opinions.
Best regards!

I need to buy a tail light for my 08 Astra H. Found many brands from TYC, Johns, Van Wezel (cheapest) to Pasco, Hella, Jumasa, Alkar.

Can someone recommend which brand is better? From what I found the 3 first posted above don't have such good reputation while Hella is greatly appreciated but it also costs 3x more.

Hi everyone, I'm having a strange issue with the cooling system on my 2010 Opel Astra J 1.6 petrol, 115hp. The coolant level is perfectly fine, but the temperature has become completely unstable. If I turn on the windscreen defroster/heater, the engine temperature plummets straight down to 60°C - 70°C. If I turn the climate control completely off, it eventually manages to climb back to 90°C, but it fluctuates and doesn't stay exactly AT 90° no matter if I drive in the highway in the city. I recently did a 360 km road trip all highway at a Speed between 100 and 130 with the defroster running, and the engine stayed cold the entire drive. I checked under the hood and noticed that the radiator fan kicks on at maximum speed in intermittent bursts, almost as if the car is trapped in some sort of safety/emergency mode, actively forcing the engine to cool down to 70°C instead of letting it warm to 90°C. The AC blows hot air but as soon as the temp goes to 70°C it blows cold air. I disconnected and reconnected the battery before this issue. Also the temp outside is between 10°C to 11°C don't know if it as something to do with it cause in the summer it heated completely fine no matter if the AC was on or not, And of course blowed hot air just fine. Any ideas of how to fix it or what it could be ?

Hi all!

I am trying to understand why my gear knob comes loose when I pull it for reversing and I can't do it. It's an Astra J (2014).

About to have a child and a little in panic with not being able to drive my wife to hospital, any clue on how to do this?

Hello, I would like to verify the correct tire pressures for a 2000 Opel Corsa B 1.0. If I recall correctly, the information on the fuel filler flap stated: Up to 3 passengers: 2.0 bar front, 1.6 bar rear Fully loaded: 2.3 bar front, 2.7 bar rear The tire sizes approved for this vehicle (as per the registration document) are: 145/80 R13 165/70 R13 165/80 R13 165/65 R14 I am currently using 165/70 R13 tires; are the settings of 2.0 bar front and 1.6 bar rear appropriate? I have found different figures online, such as: 2.2 bar front, 1.8 bar rear

Hi everyone!

I have a 2019 Opel Astra K and I'm having an issue with the USB port module located under the armrest. When I plug in my phone, the connection is unstable: it keeps disconnecting and reconnecting automatically. The same issue occurs with both an Android phone and an iPhone.

Has anyone else experienced this issue? Any ideas on what could be causing it, other than replacing the USB module?

Thanks!

How’s your experience? Which charger are you using, and would you recommend it for everyday home charging? Thanks! 😊

Hello everybody!
I am in desperate need of some help on a specific matter on my Rekord E1 1980 2 Door.

I just recently bought the car about 2 months ago. It’s in ok condition. However the rear windows have the function to open. They seem to have some part missing because the window doesn’t keep a seal when closed, so it keeps raining in. And if you open them all the way they fall out. And they are also resting against the chrome trim around the windows.

Any help on this matter would be helpful, as I don’t know what kind of part is missing. So if anyone has had the same problem with their rekord, please tell me about your solutions. Thank you in advance.

Hey everyone,
I have a 2015 Opel Astra K 1.0 Turbo (105 hp, 5-speed manual, 140,000 km).
There’s a grinding noise at idle in neutral that disappears when I fully press the clutch. It doesn’t change with RPM or temperature and isn’t noticeable while driving.
Shifting feels notchy in almost every gear, but if I wait about 2 seconds between shifts or shift above 2,000 RPM, it’s smooth.
All gears engage easily with the engine off, and 1st and reverse are fine with the engine running.
The clutch and master cylinder were replaced about 10,000 km ago.
Could this be an input shaft bearing or something else? Anyone had similar issues?

AI render of Opel Calibra. What do you think about it, would you buy it or hard pass it?

Title. Noticed this after fiddling a bit with the steering wheel to remove the steering lock. Got it back centered but it's definitely still loose. Is it normal? Maybe something broke inside? I do have basic tools.

Sound is from 3.5seconds to 7 idk if u can hear it its clicking noise than its fully warmed up and its only than its starting to realising clutch like in first gear or reverse on low speeds

Hello! I'm currently thinking on changing cars and so far I've stopped on Opel Astra J (around 2010-2013-ish models). The only key requirements for me are for it have less than 200k km and for it to be petroleum engine and since the car would mostly be driven in urban conditions I think that the 1.4 would be more than enough for me. I really like how they look and what they offer, but I want to have some info about this particular model (if possible this engine) so any tips as to what to look for in them or what should I be cautions about with them would be greatly appreciated. Also if you've owned or still own one what do you think of it? Thank you a lot in advance!

Hey everyone!
I could really use some advice/experience regarding a project car I'm stuck with.

I bought a 2008 Opel Corsa D OPC about two years ago. Unfortunately, it turned out to have way more rust than expected (body shell, one door, tailgate, sills, and rear side panels are in pretty bad shape, unless someone welds in completely new metal). Sadly I simply lack the time, equipment and money to continue. I started a few times, but it never worked out.

Right now, the car is partially disassembled (bumpers, lights, interior trim, etc. are off) to start the repairs and to paint afterwards. The engine, wiring harness, and ECUs are still completely intact inside the car.

I'm currently figuring out how I am going to sell it and would love to hear your thoughts:

1. Is it worth fully parting it out (pulling the engine, wiring, etc.) and selling every single piece separately? Or is it way too much hassle for the money/time it takes?

2. Or should I just sell it as-is (partially disassembled as a donor car) and sell the loose parts alongside it?

Has anyone here done a full OPC partout before? It would not be a problem to get rid of the remaining shell, but is the extra effort actually worth the money?

Appreciate any insights or experiences!