Got a welder recently to do some running boards on a truck and because I wanted to do it as a hobby and figured it's a fun skill to learn. Messed with t-joints in different positions, learned some pipe/corner welding, etc.

I used just some nuts, washers, and stainless tig rods for the stem. I put the washers in a vise and used pliers to bend them at different angles. I then simply tacked them together. The stem goes through a smaller nut at the top and the bottom for further support.

Anyone have any other neat ideas that are simple and fun to make? For my next project I'm going to torch-cut some metal, and make a key-hanger by my front door. Just not sure what to use for the hangers themselves on the backing metal.

Here I'm rolling .016" copper against .020" brown fiber paper, with the copper atop an etched, hardened impression plate, and a smooth hardened plate covering the cardboard (floor underlayment paper from the hardware store). This sandwich keeps the copper reasonably flat (much flatter than without the flat plate) , which makes it a lot easier to load into the pancake (cutting) die. The rolling mill 'Frankenmill' is a Cavallin manual that I've put a gear motor on via #40 roller chain and sprockets. 3-phase motor with VFD inverter and foot switch. Guitar noise by me.

Hey guys, I'm somewhat new to the railing industry, and this is my first time encountering a staircase like this. Usually, it's pretty easy where you have a stringer going to a landing, but this one butts up agains the 3rd stringer. I wasn't sure how this was going to turn out. I'm still unsure about the looks of the flat bar going grom the grab peice to the corner, but i guess no going back now.

I'm in my second year of welding and for my senior project I've decided to make a realistic life-size crow sculpture, but I've come across a problem that I have no clue on how to even attempt;

I want the beak to be moveable, but I'm not sure what is the best way to do it. I've made a wire frame base to act as it's "skull"; which is 2" and 3/8th in length without the beak. At first i thought maybe a rotary switch with detents would work as it would help hold the beak in whatever position I want it in, but realized the skull may be too small - and it wouldn't allow the top beak to move like a real crows can.

Should I just give up some of the realism to make things easier? Or are there any other options I could try to make it work? Any help is greatly appreciated!

(I can provide pictures if needed on Monday when I return to the shop)

Everything work as intended on it, but it won't arc. Started investigating and the plunger on the transformer doesn't move when clicking the trigger. Tried the reset but doesn't change anything. Idk what to do from here. I've read about an overheating problem but haven't seen any signs of that. Then also a different main relay that isn't apparent on my machine. Any help would be great and honestly don't care if I Jerry rig this ho.

I want to build a 25.5” diameter mosaic sphere that is held up by a single pole set into a concrete base. I’m planning to weld the steel with a MIG (my professor will help me) and use concrete for the base. The mosaic sphere should only be 100 lbs but I want to be sure it can hold up more. This is also for an outdoor project that needs to last the Chicago winter. Any feedback or suggestions? Thank you!!