I've been building a lighting engine for an electronic drum kit, and it's at the point where I can show off some of the progress. I'm not publishing it as open source right now because it is still at a very early stage.

What it is:

The engine is an MCU-friendly signal graph written in Rust that runs on an STM32F429 Discovery board, which also drives LED strips using a pretty efficient approach (the driver supports up to 16 strips; I run 8). The looks are built from nodes like noise fields, palettes, trails, blends, etc. The graph is very generic, so extending it with any new kind of kernel is extremely easy. All the math is fixed point for efficiency.

The input is built on a custom-made analog front-end board that shapes the envelope; some further DSP is also performed later in the firmware (I think I will eventually build a kick drum trigger module based on that). The ADC samples 8 inputs at 20 kHz.

The first part of the video is Studio:

It is a browser editor where a graph can be built and wired. The preview runs the same engine that the board does, through WASM, so the looks in the browser match the ones on hardware frame for frame. It also allows turning the knobs of any node or sending a replacement patch to the board in real time. There is also cost estimation for CPU and memory; the board will refuse a patch that is beyond its computational capacity.

The second part of the video is OBS (yeah, I know):

Since I was building a drum trigger engine, I needed a way to fine-tune and observe the detector, so basically OBS allows you to see in real time how hits are detected and, more importantly, adjust the knobs of the detector and see what it would detect with them.

Where it is going:

I want to eventually drive an 8-drum kit and light each drum with a separate LED strip. I'm also currently working on improving the clock system, allowing multi-clock signals using some clock calculus approaches. I've also been experimenting with audio, so this also works for any audio nodes; I've built several guitar effects that run on the development board (no audio input/output yet, so they're not playable for now).

I'll probably open-source it at some point once I have enough time to tidy everything up and stop being ashamed of the code (so, possibly never).

Tubes: ab450-a996-af07 (HAY)

Sign: 6m neonflex 8W/m

I plan to change the switch on the mains line of the tubes with solid state relays to make the lamps controllable with a microcontroller.

What i want to do is, when button pressed, run a sequence of 10 minutes making it flicker sporadically (tubes are my main concern because these are bought as fixtures, sign is fine!):

Start-up: light turns on for .6s and off for .1 second - 3-5 times.

Mid: light flickers on/off for .1s-.4s, 3-5 times every 2-3 minutes (random)

End sequence: after 10 minutes the light pulses on/off 4 times for .5 seconds and stays off.

Will this hurt the drivers of the leds/be a fire hazard/... (Im paranoid about the starup surge but i don't know how much damage it can realistically do)

Thanks

I dont remember it being like this a while ago when I got them but the blue on max brightness is supper dim and idk why. (Photos taken in the same lighting auto exposure makes the background look darker)

I can't find this anywhere, I could use some hints on how to fix it.

I'm looking for a 230AC -> 24DC power supply to feed BTF Lighting LM052 dimmer / controller. About 50 - 100W.

I've bought 2 power supplies so far and both have produced annoying high pitched noise or whine. Bad enough that I wouldn't want to be in the same room with it. They don't make that whine with other, lower frequency controllers.

I don't want to spend more money so asking here if anyone has some certain suggestions.

The controllers PWM frequency is about ~5khz according to my multimeter. I'd rather find a good power supply for this controller since I need it to be able to dim down to very low levels without any flicker, which it does.

And I've also tried adding smoothing capacitors to the controllers input. This helps but not 100%.

I'm trying to fix a broken Ledlenser H7 with MINOR knowledge about PCB's and electricity in general. There's a loose wire on the battery PCB and I don't know where it should go. The only picture I can find of the PCB doesn't show that part so I was wondering if anyone had one open and could take a picture for me or describe in stupid detail where it should go?

Don't know if the link is exactly the same version because I'm unsure if mine is rechargeable but otherwise it looks the same. Also it's not on the Ledlenser website anymore.

tl;dr: Don't know where wire should go. Thankful for pictures.

I looking for this exact same part, without the non Lego bulb 1x1 round plate

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EzdzvdC

Could someone tell me what could be the reason.

Wheather its heat issue or driver is failing?

If driver is failing why both right and left side of same led works on High mode. But in low mode it is either left or right side that is working. And after sometime for high on it behaving the same as low beam.

Help somone

I've got a frustrating problem with some LED strip lighting integrated into bespoke timber shelving, and I'm hoping someone with experience of LED installations might have some suggestions.

There are three illuminated shelves, with the LED strips recessed into channels in the timber behind diffusers. The middle and bottom shelves have developed almost identical faults.

The symptoms:

• At a particular point along two of the strips, the LEDs suddenly become significantly dimmer.
• Pressing directly on the diffuser at the exact point where the brightness changes immediately restores full brightness.
• Sometimes even a light tap on the shelf fixes it.
• The fault has gradually become worse.
• The top shelf works perfectly.

I'm guessing this is a cracked solder joint, damaged copper track or loose connection, but I'm not particularly knowledgeable about LED electronics.

The main complication is access.

The diffusers are enclosed by the timber at both ends, so I can't see how to remove them without dismantling part of the shelving.

The original cabinet maker has explained that the timber plugs at the ends can be drilled out to expose screws, allowing the end sections to be removed. However, I'm reluctant to start dismantling the joinery unless it's absolutely necessary.

My questions:

1. Does this sound like a failed solder joint or damaged copper track, given that pressure at one precise point restores the brightness?
2. Is there a way to remove a section of the diffuser without taking the shelf apart? Could it potentially be clipped out from the middle?
3. Assuming I can expose the faulty section, is this something that could be repaired with a soldering iron or a short bridging wire, rather than replacing the whole strip?
4. Is there another repair method I'm overlooking that would avoid dismantling the joinery?

I've tried contacting the original lighting supplier and several specialists without success, so I'm considering whether this might be something I could tackle myself. Failing that, if someone know someone who could help with this in London, that would be great.

I've attached photos showing the full installation, the brightness change and the original construction.

Any suggestions would be very welcome!

I have set up 6 arches for Halloween using DC 5V WS2811 Led Fairy Lights. 63 LEDs per string. These are connected via extension cables, 18AWG 3-wire stranded copper, that range from 10 feet to 6 inches in length to one of 2 SP901E 1->4 repeaters/boosters which are connected via ~15 foot cables, 18 AWG 4-wire solid core copper, cables to a GLEDOPTO Elite ESP32 WLED LED Controller powered by a 5v 30 AMP PSU. (I'll try to put a diagram in the comments)

Things I have tried:

• - Each strand was tested when built connected directly to the GLEDOPTO controller.
• - Originally I was using both data outputs over 2 of the 4 wires in the cable between the controller and the repeaters, I have tried disconnecting 1 of the data lines and got no changes in result
• - About 10 lights "work", they light up some color, on each strand, but flicker and do not really follow the intended program.
• - While all strands are about 10 LEDs lit, they do vary by about 5

I plan on doing more troubleshooting tonight, but am looking for ideas to help narrow the search area for where things might be going wrong.

Thanks!

** Edit **

I will get a picture when I get home

I had tested that I had 5v at the output of the repeater, read 5.17vdc there.

I have tested one strand of light connected directly to the repeater with no extension and it had the same issues as the other.

*** Edit **"

It's working... But I don't fully know why. I brought it inside tested voltages at all the places. Tried grounding the extra wire, tried doubling up the data wire. Nothing was working. So I then tried bypassing the splitters. Just to sanity check. That worked. So then I thought maybe the vcc and ground need to be attached in the input (even though all the pads beep out when tested) and that worked... Then for shits and giggles I moved the vcc to the blocks, still works. Moved the grnd to the blocks and one to input, still works. Remove the grnd from just the input, still works.

TLDR: I THINK I HAD A LOOSE WIRE SOMEWHERE. 🤷🏼🤦🏼

Hello everyone,

I would like to install a LED strip behind my monitor. However, I don’t have a PC connected to the monitor. Instead, I use a console (Xbox Series). Are there any LED strips available that can be powered by connecting them to either the console or the monitor? The LED light doesn’t necessarily have to be dynamic - a static, single-color light is fine too.

Thanks in advance!

by GYATEZ

These things get so hot so I'm obviously trying to avoid anything from burning, someone suggested parchment paper but I'm not interested in that. If I just paint the outside of the cover with a couple of layers of acrylic paint will it melt the paint?

Setting up a gaming room for my son and thought it would be a cool idea to add color to the lights, but I'd rather not change the bulb. I'm assuming it will dim the brightness too?

I am trying to light the perimeter of garage doors for the holidays. Two years ago I installed WS2812B strips and while it worked, I was underwhelmed at the rather sad ability to produce better White Temperatures. I have read about RGBCCT but I'd really like the ability to control each LED and treat it like a single pixel. Ideas or recommendations would be appreciated!

Thanks!

Here is my setup: I have a pool enclosure with a ledge which is 8 ft above ground. That ledge is going around the perimeter of the pool area, for a total length of 150 feet. The ledge has a groove, which means any light strip/rope is not visible from the ground. There is no ceiling, but I am only looking for the groove to be lit up (more of an ambience light). So far I have been using daisy-chained rope lights but they invariably break after a few months, and only portions of the ledge have light. I have a 120V power source from one end of the ledge (the ledge forms a U-shape).

I am looking for an alternative to the ever-failing rope lights. As this is outdoor, preference is IP67 and we would love a color changing strip, so that we can have a Halloween / Christmas color scheme. I would appreciate recommendations - thanks!

I Want the beam of light to be colorful if that is possible. I am unsure of what lighting is used. I do know that led is not bright enough to achieve that ‘Beam’ that I want.-Note to Mods(I do not know what link to paste because I have know idea of the light needed for the project)

Hi, I'm looking for a motion detecting switch to turn on the led strip under my kitchen cabinets. The strip plugs directly into the USB socket and has no on/off switch. I'd like to splice a PIR switch into the cable so that I can switch the lights on with a swipe of the hand. But I want the sensor to have adjustable sensitivity, so that it only detects motion within say 2 or 3 cm. (I don't want it to be activated by me walking past it).

Is there anything out there on the market? Or could you give me a tip on what to look for or where to look?

Many thanks

Hello,

I am trying to put in some under-stair LED strips in my home. I want to get a sensor to detect when it gets dark and then turn on the under-stair lights automatically. Surprisingly, nobody sells something that simple, or it's wicked expensive. Is it easy to do myself? I have no experience with circuits/soldering.

I found these LED strips and a light sensor on Amazon, and I'm hoping I can put the two together, though I don't know what I'd have to solder or where.

Amazon Items

Sensor - https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0GZ83JTX9?smid=A3FH9PN6K47KUI&psc=1

LED Strip - https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B088YP35JW?smid=A3W1ARFCWJR0HL&th=1

Thanks in advance!

Hey, I want to replace the broken driver for my LED Lamp.

I found a couple on amazon bit I‘m not sure which to choose.

The current driver says

Waiberlon
Constant Current LED Driver
Model: HLV50025LB
SEC:42-50Va
0.750
PRI.:220-240V~50Hz 0.14A(Max) )>0.95
SEC.:42-50V. /500mA
ta:50°C tc:85°C
POUT:21-25W
Max. output voltage(no load):62VDC

Is it possible to take something with more current, e.g. 700mA like the second picture?

Thanks in advance!