Plug in solar is getting more popular in the US because it works in Europe. But I have a question on how well it really works.

Europe is 230v in the home. Everything in the home is 230v, including the Plug In solar. All loads in the house see the solar power across the line.

US is different. We use 120v with loads balanced across both phases to Neutral, and 240v for the bigger loads. Plug in Solar is 120v, so its only across one phase to neutral. Does any load on the other phase benefit from the Plug In Solar? What about the 240v AC unit? Its phase to phase so I would think it would benefit somewhat.

Personally, I think its a scam. Excess power is fed back to the grid but you get nothing for it! The power company just sells it to the neighborhood. You only benefit when the fridge, space heater, or HVAC is running.

This is an outlet in our kitchen. It's a GFCI on a 20amp circuit. It's a somewhat older house, so there aren't as many outlets as in a modern kitchen. This is one of two outlets on one side of the sink, where most of the countertop appliances are. Plugged in here are a toaster, Vitamix, coffee grinder, electric kettle, and small Ninja blender. Plus the empty spot occasionally used for the mixer or food processor, which are stored elsewhere. Three feet to the left of here is another outlet with a microwave and a toaster oven. I assume this is on the same circuit. We rarely use more than 2 items in both of these outlets at once, mostly the toaster and small coffee grinder together.

Is this a problem other than being an eyesore? This is a rental, and we've been here over two years without an issue. Am I correct is thinking that if it was ever overloaded, it would just trip the breaker, since none of these appliances draw a significant amount unless they are actively being used? Would a surge protector/power strip be a better idea? I have thought of mounting one under the cabinets.

I recently bought 4 germicidal UV-C lights which contains 6/8 watts each, I partnered it with a power ballast containing 1×36 watts. Both of them run in 220v, but the problem that I have right now is that after trying them out for a while it started flickering. What is the problem and how can I fix it? Should I buy another power ballast?

I know its CL200 But is the enclosure and the current SEU wiring rated for 200amp service?

I’m not an electrician, but I was doing some work on this house and needed to plug into an outlet and saw this. Note, I didn’t touch the panel. This is how it was in the garage. Surprisingly my table saw didn’t trip a breaker here.

Hello! hoping to get some info from people who might know what this is. This line was sticking up out of the ground and is obviously severed. I think it may be an old electrical line to the shed. Would it be ok to remove or bury?

I've got a junction box with open conduits for power conduit trenched from my main panel to a subpanel in another building.  This area sometimes floods during heavy rain.  What is the correct way to seal the conduit to keep water out?

The yellow cord fell out of metal box. The plastic at the top is pretty sealed in there I need to crack it open to glue the cord back in but I really don’t want to ruin the box. Any tips ?

The outside is metal and the black is a plastic tab tried sticking a thin box cutter between and it will not fit.

Doing some upgrades to our new house and I have installed a new fan/light combo. I’d like them to work independently however the way the existing electrical is run it would be difficult to run new wiring from the existing switch. I am considering getting an outlet/switch combo and operating the fan off of that. My question is, do I need to neutrals in a “correct” direction? Or is the way I have it drawn appropriate? With both neutrals connected to the original switch circuit and simply running a hot from the outlet switch to the fan hot?

What it says in the title, pictured is the outlet I removed. The wires coming off the non-ground screws were thicker gauge. The screw pairs on each side have the little connection tab still attached. I twisted and capped the thick gauge white wires together and capped the red wire. I wired up the new outlet correctly, following the big WHITE HOT LINE GND arrows to locate my wires. If anyone could help that’d be great thank you

I've wanted my own solar setup for years, but renting an apartment kind of kills that dream.

So I spent the last 6 months building it in a game instead.

You start with a single 50 W panel and grow into solar, wind and batteries. In the clip, I tried pushing too much power through a thin cable to see what happens. Cable sizing actually matters in the game, and undersized wire overloads.

If you could add one thing from your real solar setup to this game, what would it be?

It's called The Last Kilowatt. Steampage

Pasco county, Florida

Meter and panels are on the side of a steel building. Line in branches left and right, panel for the barn and panel for the house.

In the process of purchasing home and inspector reported the wiring as unsafe/unsatisfactory due to the ground coming out of the meter panel not being in a conduit. He will update the report when it is corrected. Insurance is unhappy, so we need to get this fixed soon.

Does this require a permit or is it something we can do over the weekend ourselves? I have an electrician friend but he is not a contractor.

Would pvc U channel raceway be an option, or are there other up to code options for covering the wire vs encasing it? I have enough sch80 on hand if need be.

Morning boys, I’m a 21 y/o carpenter bought my first house doing some remodeling and I can’t figure out what’s wrong with whatever the hell I’m looking at for obvious reasons, I took down the old fan the previous fan would flicker on the lights and then shut off after a second when switching it on and would have to be manually turned on by the hanging knobs, wired up the new one to see if it would work and it doesn’t. This is how I currently have it I have the breaker off until an electrician friend has a chance to come by.
Old fan was wired to the red wire

Wondering if we need to turn off the circuit (and therefore every overhead light in our main living space) until our builder will come back and fix it under warranty. Which could be a while. Thanks!

My new fridge and old fridge both say that the voltage is 115. My old fridge says amperage is 20 and my new one is 1.8. I don’t know if that matters but I wanted to throw that in. Where the fridge is supposed to be plugged in is a GFCI outlet and around two minutes after plugging in the new one, it keeps tripping. I plugged it into one that didn’t say GFCI and it still tripped two minutes later. Would this be something to do with the fridge, or is it something with the plugs? I’m at a loss here. We’ve been without a fridge for almost a month and I’m just wanting to get it figured out!