Can someone help me understand this graph? “Heat” is a new heat pump, I’ve never had one, or a smart thermostat so it’s all new to me.
The graph says the heat pump runs for 10 minutes every time but I see the fan spinning and hear the compressor running for much longer than 10 mins. I would say it is much closer to that “fan” time. Why does it say 10minutes every time? I can even feel warm air the whole time, so I’m assuming the heat pump is working (compressor noise also happening and fan on outside unit blowing).
To clarify: I feel warm air coming from vents for about the amount of time “fan” time says, why does “heat” time always only say 10min?
I'd love if someone would be able to help out with the wiring configuration between my Smart Premium thermostat and the humidifer set-up!
Currently the humidistat is wired separately from the Ecobee thermostat, such that when the humidity drops below the dial setting then the solenoid will be flipped to ON to allow water to pass through when there is a heating call. It will work, but I'd just rather have all of the controls be unified to one thermostat and mobile app.
There was originally an old Aprilaire system the original homeowners installed some 2-3 decades ago, so we kept that humidistat but installed a newer Aprilaire Model 400 humidifier. 2 wires from a solenoid and 2 wires from the humidistat are connected to each other, then connected to a 24V transformer which is connected to the furnace control board.
I had an HVAC company do an install of a new furnace and heat pump (furnace is a Keeprite G96VTN, heat pump is the Gree GUD36W2NHEDU set to its lower tonnage rating). I wanted the old humidistat to be finally wired into the thermostat so that the control can happen all from one place.
We were told the solenoid couldn't be wired into the Ecobee thermostat because the thermostat's control board couldn't provide enough power, so they tried to use a newer Aprilaire humidistat to control it independently, which also didn't work for some unknown reason...I suspect they hadn't worked with this setup before and couldn't figure out the wiring.
Wiring at the humidistat, just above thermostat.current wiring at the thermostat2 wires (black and white) from brown cable going to the old humidistat ; 2 attached white wires going to the solenoid ; 2 wires from red cable (red and black) going to the transformer
The transformer is then connected to the main board in two ways.
whole boardwhite wire from the other end of transformer going to HUM 24VACblack wire from transformer going to "EAC-1"
I suspect that:
The solenoid requires more power than the Ecobee board can provide, thus needing the 24 VAC HUM on the furnace board.
"EAC-1" is related to when the furnace has received a heating call from the thermostat.
I have tried to reference this Ecobee support article, but I seem to have a two-wire solenoid setup. I know that the thermostat can provide dry contacts in 2-wire humidifier mode, but I think there is something wrong with the circuit involving the solenoid and transformer that was causing a failure during the initial HVAC company install.
Ultimately I don't care about the newer Aprilaire humidistat I have if I can wire it all to the Ecobee thermostat.
And my questions:
Do I really need the transformer if the board itself has the 24 VAC HUM port?
Essentially, what has to be adjusted to enable the Ecobee thermostat to control the solenoid?
I'm comfortable adjusting the wiring configuration myself. If there's any adjustment needed for the blower programming then I'd have to get back in touch with the HVAC company, but I'd at least want to know exactly what I need to request from them!
I've just been lost with trying to read through manuals, other reddit threads and looking at the current wiring set-up—I can't make sense of what needs to be changed. Thank you so much to anyone who can help out!!
Edit: I pulled the old humidistat cable and connected the two wires to the ACC + and - terminals on the Ecobee thermostat (white to ACC +). I also totally removed the transformer.
Brown cable: white from thermostat ACC + with red wire, goes to 24VAC HUM port on the furnace board ; 1 white solenoid wire goes with the other thermostat wire, black ACC - ; other white solenoid wire goes to black wire, goes to C terminal on the furnace board
Now everything is wired in series so that the thermostat makes or breaks the connection. I believe this should be correct, will report back once the humidity is low enough outside to test.Edit: I pulled the old humidistat cable and connected the two wires to the ACC + and - terminals on the Ecobee thermostat (white to ACC +). I also totally removed the transformer.I followed this diagram from this video:Now everything is wired in series so that the thermostat makes or breaks the connection. I believe this should be correct, will report back once the humidity is low enough outside to test.
Hi there,unfortunately had to have our upstairs Heat pump replaced prematurely due to some
Installation issues with the last unit. In the Process our Ecobee 3 died so the HVAC company installed an Ecobee Lite.
Heat Pump Info
RUUD 2 stage Endeavor system with electric aux heat.
2 issues with the Ecobee, equipment setup picture included below.
1)it is reporting the system as a single stage heat pump. I figured out this one. I only have 5 wires at the Condenser unit so have the company coming back out to run new wiring.
2) Ecobee is showing Aux Furnace. We do not have an aux furnace, instead we have an electric aux heat strip. Is fixing this as simple as reconfiguring equipment and then selecting electric aux heat vice aux furnace? Does it matter?
We just moved in and we have an ecobee. I tried setting the temps but my AC temp won’t go lower than my heating. So rn it says AC 69 and Heating is 64.
Why does my thermostat change automatically when I specifically have it set on only heat or only A/C? I will have it set to heat and then in the middle of the day it automatically.swktches to a/c and starts blowing cool air
I feel like I’m going crazy. I have my thermostat on the main floor and then two sensors upstairs for my kids room
I set a comfort setting for the temps to monitor the two bedrooms from 8 pm to 6 am. It appears my thermostat keeps taking part of the averages but it shouldn’t
I’ve included pics of the main screen. The comfort setting settings and the mode it shoud be on
I’ve removed the HOME comfort setting from my schedule because I’ve read it likes to default a lot
I’ve also disabled anything eco and follow me
Is there a way to have the thermostat stop including itself in the averages when I’m on a schedule?
I own a two stage unit in SW Florida for an Airbnb. I've been tracking the performance for the last year and it cools significantly faster on Stage 1 (lower blue line) vs Stage 2 (upper blue line) where it drops much more slowly.
On very warm days it can run on Stage 1 for 10-15 minutes, then switch to Stage 2 for a very long time, sometimes an hour or two if it's in the mid 90's and humid which is 4+months a year here. I asked our Tech if they could be swapped and they said the system wouldn't be working at all if that were the case.
Has anyone seen anything similar? Is this normal? Thanks for any feedback.
As title says, Ecobee says I should contact support during setup when selecting W2 wire. I noticed when I deselect the W2 wire, this contact support page goes away and it proceeds with setup so W2 seems to be the culprit preventing me from going through the rest of setup. Is there a way I need to select the W2 wire in the setup steps to progress? Here are pictures of my old thermostat that I am trying to replace.
Good morning! I just moved into a new house, I’m trying to bring over my old ecobee, which I had no issues installing at the old house.
This one is tricky. I popped open the air handler panel and it’s just a plain mess in there.
- C wire is tied into a red wire that I believe runs to the outside unit.
- W1 and W2 are spliced together along with a white thermostat wire.
- R wire is spliced to the red thermostat wire
- G and Y wire are spliced together with the green thermostat wire
- Blue thermostat wire is spliced together with a white wire that I believe comes back inside from the outside unit.
Pictures attached.
What would be the correct steps to properly use the ecobee. I don’t need a PEK unit possibly?
I don’t even think the current Thermostat is hooked up correctly but it’s working? I’m so confused.
On Monday, October 12, 2026, at approximately 5:55 PM Pacific, all my ecobee thermostats (ecobee3 lite and ecobee4 models) simultaneously disconnected from ecobee's servers.
Here's the strange part: Every thermostat connects to Wi-Fi and passes its internet connectivity test, but fails the ecobee server connection test.
TLS handshake attempts to idt.ecobee.com:8190 are closed by the remote server without a response.
Temporarily stopping my Docker/Frigate installation made no difference.
I connected an actual thermostat to my phone's cellular hotspot, completely bypassing my home network. It STILL couldn't connect to ecobee's servers.
Ecobee's official status page shows everything operational.
The fact that multiple thermostat models simultaneously lost connectivity at exactly the same time, and the issue persists across different internet connections, makes me suspect something on ecobee's backend.
Has anyone else experienced this since October 12? Particularly around 5:55 PM Pacific?
I'd be interested in hearing whether anyone has identified a solution or received an explanation from ecobee support.
We have our Ecobee set during the sleep period for 18 degrees C. On our old conventional thermostat, when the house temp went down to 17.5, the furnace would kick on until the thermostat detected an ambient temp of 18 and then shut down until the house cooled down to 17.5 again. And then the process would repeat.
However, it seems like the Ecobee kicks the furnace on at 18 or 17.5 and then just lets it continue to run while the house heats up to well past 20. And this is all well within the time period of the "sleep" setting. Are we doing something wrong?
(The Ecobee functions normally during the day, in that we have AUX set to 21 and it will let the furnace and the house juggle the temps between 20.5 and 21 just like our old thermostat).
I have my ecobee thermostat set to 70 but only to read the sensor not the main thermostat and it is cooling 4 degrees lower. I had to shut it down manually and it does this from time to time. I don’t have any of the smart features on because I just want it to do what I set it at. I’m about to just go back to a standard system because this thing can’t just function. I added some pictures to show what I’m talking about.
Purchased an Ecobee Smart Thermostat Enhanced as well as an 24V AC Transformer C Wire Adapter. My old thermostat only has heat with an R and W wire. I watched a few tutorials and they are saying to plug the wire from the 24-Volt Plug-In Adapter to the RC plug and the C plug, but there is no RC plug on the ecobee backing plate. My question is where would I plug in the wire if I do not have the RC plug on the ecobee
Not sure how many people use the Ecobee Switch+, but just got an email that they are ending all the Smart features on Mar 2027.
We’re reaching out to inform you that most Switch+ smart features will stop working as of March 2, 2027. Your Switch+ will still function as a regular light switch and connect to the Apple Home app via iOS on iPhone or iPad. However, it will no longer appear in your ecobee app or work with voice assistants or other third-party integrations (details below).
I get no longer supporting it for updates, but they cant just leave the built in Alexa alone.
