(ignore my mess)

Status Update:

https://www.reddit.com/r/diyaudio/comments/1x0qofd/printing_a_umii822_ultimax_ii_8_sub/

Here is the wonderful beast next to my MA6500 which needs some Love too. Its a tall beast and fits a bit too close to the underside of my desk but I like it!(mainly cuz I made it)

It's being powered by a Nobsound G2 PRO

Still only 4 plates on the U1, object was fewest parts I could manage for ease of build, sound will be just fine for me I think. the driver fit in it like a glove.

-The help i need is, I have a new mic boom comin for my UMIK but I am wondering where I should position the mic to test this wonderful thing. Bottom firing Top(for now) Ported. I was trying to find a video of someone testing one with port on opposite end but I didn't see anything good.

Its taller in the hand than on the screen, but so far running it through a few frequencies at different volume levels I'd say its "Decent" for how good the driver is.

Once I vacuum up my mess I will take a few more pics and get around to posting it up on the interwebs.

Feels nice to finish a just for fun project.

Hello everyone, I could use some help figuring out which components I need to build an audio converter that takes a USB input (from a PC) and outputs 8-channel S/PDIF, which I can then route via a DB25 cable to a Dolby CP750 digital cinema processor

I have a MR5 and I love this speaker. But the subwoofer is placed inside at the bottom. I want to design a new box that show all 3 speaker to front view and see the vibration of the subwoofer when play music. Is it possible to do that? Any impact to the sound quality?

Hey DiyAudio Fam,

I've been in and out of the speaker building hobby for decades and am looking for some input.

I've managed to collect a significant amount of nice speaker drivers over the last 10-20 years or so. I've been in and out of the hobby over the years and haven't kept myself up to date on electronics over the last 5 years or so.

My wife and I had our first child 2 years ago and I decided it's time to give him a proper setup in his room. Something we can throw some bedtime classical music on, or let him JAM to his Wiggles. The little dude loves music, so I want to set up a nice little system in his room.

My goal is to build a nice Bluetooth speaker for him. I have a modern phone that I will dedicate as the source and Tidal to provide the tunes.

Currently, his little system is a 2.1 Bluetooth speaker I built with a ZOUDIO 4 channel plate amp powering 2x Mark Audio Alpair 5's and a Tangband W5 subwoofer. It's great. It works. It probably doesn't need an upgrade.. I joke that my little guy has a better setup than 90% of the adults I know.

That said..

I wanna build a super high end Bluetooth speaker for him.. just because he's my guy and I love speakers.

My question is.. are there any really great plate amps that have Bluetooth or WIFI and DSP and 2-4 amp channels? I like the ZOUDIO amp, but the software to program the DSP is really buggy on my laptops. I see a lot of the Wondom and Dayton amp boards being recommended but I'm looking for a plate amp if possible. I'm pretty comfy with wood working and cabinet design but would really love a quality all in plate amp.

Are there any modern plate amps with DSP, wifi/Bluetooth and 2-4 channels these days? Something that's plug and play other than the programing/DSP/crossover setup?.. I feel like I've been looking for this solution for some time. The ZOUDIO unit is the closet I've found, but unfortunately Ive been having connection issues when it comes to programming..

Appreciate any input!!

Hey everyone - I need to find a reputable source to 3d print a plate for me with an IEC socket, 1/4" socket, and a socket for an on/off button that's a specific size. Googling this gives me a bazillion answers, and I don't know what to pick. When I search "custom 3d printing" on Etsy, the results seem sketchy.

I just want someone who maybe knows a little something about audio, is trustworthy, and will take my shitty designs and my money and send me what I want, in the US preferably. Any tips?

Hi folks - last week I was trying to test my crossover without all drivers hooked up (appreciate the patience as I learned that was a non-starter). Now I went through my crossover and l-pad trace by trace, have it re-assembled, and am still getting ~6db+ softer through the midbass to low midrange (~200hz-1000hz). SPL testing is in the same position (swapping the speakers on the test stand by hand so not millimeter perfect, but not off enough to cause the dip I'm seeing), same mic (un-moved), same amp channel.

Testing the individual drivers doesn't show anything odd in their sweeps, left and right midranges measure the same. I'm noting the sharper "V" in the double-peak for the softer speaker, but I'm not sure what that tells me.

pics in order: good speaker, softer speaker, and my dumbness from last week (which illustrates where my crossover points are, at least.)

I purchased a used pair of Wharfedale 415 speakers on Craigslist and one of the tweeters is dead - I managed to open them up and swap the tweeters to confirm. I'm looking into replacing it, but I have been thoroughly confused by the various specs and sizes. These are 1990s vintage speakers, so even Wharfedale hasn't been able to dig up proper specs.

I'm hoping someone on here here can advise as to whether what I'm trying to do is doable or likely to be searching for a spec that doesn't exist. Thanks in advance for your help.

The measurements I have are below:

Tweeter / cabinet details:

Model: Wharfedale 0312A DD TQZ aluminum dome tweeter

Baffle outside diameter: 100mm (3 7/8")

Baffle cutout diameter: 75mm vertically, 90mm horizontally (it’s oval shaped)

Faceplate screw to screw: 85mm or 3 3/8" diagonally (4 screws square)

Faceplate diameter: 95-97mm

Coil diameter: 72mm

I don't know the tweeter's impedance or sensitivity, only the speaker's

Speaker details:

Serial number: 415BL000055

Nominal impedance: 8 ohms

Power handling: 100W

Sensitivity (2.83v @ 1m): 87dB.

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Hey everyone,

I would like to get some knowledgeable feedback on my upcoming Horn speaker build:

Specs:
HF driver: Faital HF108 8ohm
LF driver: Faital 12pr320 or 12pr330 (both 8 ohm)
Horn: 590mm by 300mm, Designed by myself using ATH and AKABAK ( ~90 horizontal, ~50 vertical)
Enclosure: 550mm wide, 680mm height, 380mm deep

I will be using a SET amplifier with about 3 watts max..

Efficiency should be around 93db/w with f3 at about 43 hz in 1/2 space

Fully passive of course with low order crossover
(I will be committing to a smaller sweetspot vertically because of low c/o interferences)

Any idea on the best port placement ? Or any references I should check out ?
Or maybe a different LF driver I should check out ?
( altec 414 8b would be the dream but $$$ and not really available except GPA )

Hey guys, I just got the zkas21 amplifier for my two hifi satellites. It works great except there is a humming noice when the on board treble controler is turned more then half a turn. The humming noice is same for all volumes, both Bluetooth and aux and even after connecting the power supply to different/same outlet as my pc. Is there anything except not using the treble to do about this? Thank you

Halo.

I had a pair of Audioengine HD3 (old ones, not the next GEN) and need some advice on replacing the speakers surrounds since i've never done anything similar

The info I've found (on a website review, not official) is that they feature a  2.75" Kevlar woven glass aramid composite woofers with rubber surrounds.

Taking the above as true I guess I should go with rubber suspensions, but Im completely lost about the measures. Is the 2.75" the size of the cone?

Im in europe, and the website i've found is selling this sizes and im not sure about which one should I get.

Thanks in advance!

Hi,

My first time designing a 3 way crossover. The FRD that go into this were all measured in box. Was wondering if anything stood out as very clearly wrong from this crossover.

Thanks for any feedback!

EDIT: Phase and Impedance in comments

Hi all.

A bit of a brain dump incoming, so bear with me...

I've decided to embark on the DIY subwoofer journey and need some help getting started. I've pored over countless forum / reddit posts and looked at countless designs, and honestly...its a bit overwhelming. That urge to maximize every possible variable is dangerously alluring but also quite unrealistic for someone making their first DIY speaker i.e. me. I've been running things through Claude, but I'm not hugely trusting of what it spits out. It sounds good to my amateur understanding, but I'm reluctant to rely on it, which is why I'm here.

For the sake of simplicity, I will build a sealed box, which I want to fulfill both music listening and movie requirements; a general purpose sub (if there is such a thing). My space is 3.6m x 4.8m. I've gotten myself WinISD, but understand that I need to select a driver before the software can help me spec an enclosure. I'm thinking a 12" driver should be sufficient given my space and requirements - the exact species of which I'm needing help with. I'll be running the sub with Elac DB63 speakers and a Wiim Amp Ultra.

Living in New Zealand, there are next to no retailers servicing the DIY space and importing weighty and delicate audio components would be prohibitively expensive and risky. The local options that I've so far found are the following:

1.) SB Audience NERO-12MWN700D from https://buzzaudio.co.nz/

2.) Eminence LAB12 from https://www.livesound.co.nz/

Or, option 3. which is to snag something from https://www.wagneronline.com.au/, an Aussie store that I can pop by when visiting family. They stock Dayton gear which I understand to be highly regarded in the DIY space.

I'd love to come in under the $1500 NZD mark, which equates to $853USD. Worth mentioning is that any enclosure costs will be nil; I have access to a CNC machine and MDF through my work, and I'm handy on Solidworks for drafting things up, so we're really just budgeting for the electronic components. Note that things are FAR more expensive here, so budget offerings in the US won't be so cost effective here, nor will they even be available, for that matter.

Any pointers to get me started would be much appreciated. Even selecting a driver is fairly daunting given the lengthy specs attached to each product!

I'm trying to build a poor man's Altec 604

Anyone have resources on how to detach the waveguide/horn on a coaxial driver and replace it with a 3d printed one of different geometry? I'm looking at the Beyma 15CXA400Fe.

I Thought I would share my opinion on this subject as an audiophile who have an above average interest in extra low frequencies. I have been designing and building pro audio speakers on a hobby basis for about 15 years at this point.

A while back I finally got a Digital signal processor for my car, its the first time I have had a soundsystem in "god mode" where I could play down to 20hz as loud as I would possibly want. I have been playing around with soundsystems which have a frequency responses down in the 28-35hz range for a long time, but 20hz is rather new to me. Car audio enthusiasts will probably laugh at me for being new with the low 20s experience.

As someone who likes EDM, the first thing i did with my DSP was to apply a massive boost at 25hz. It was great! That is, the few songs that actually have energy that low. I was rather surprised by how rarely that pressure chamber experiece actually kicked in when playing music, even music I thought had plenty of energy below 30hz actually didnt have as much as I thought. I also became aware of the well known phenomenon where too much low frequency boost makes the bass seem less deep. This was most noticble when I toned down the 25hz peak, those rare occasions mid 25hz was a part of the music seemed much deeper then. I tried moving my peak below 25hz but it was clear, music does not really go that low. I also notice clearly that some music producers have not set their HPF properly on some songs and sonic frequency activity happened randomly and felt rather distracting. I ended up moving the peak to 27-28hz and with a more "gentle" boost. 34hz was around 3db, 30hz was around 6 decibel and 27hz around 10 decibel. While 10db around 27hz sounds massive, keep in mind, our ears sensitivity drops rather quickly below the low 30s and "massive low end" is kinda the point for a bass head.

The boost was low enough that it does not impact the tightness of a bass beat at all, it didnt overwhelm bass drops either as bass drops generally dont focus below mid 30s, On the few occasions the bass line peak did drop down below 35hz, that extra energy felt just right. One noteworthy thing: bass "heavyness" seems to increase the lower you go, but somewhere in the low 30s, the heaviness fades out and is gradually replaced with a different sensation. I tried boosting 25hz and take some extra energy out from the 30-35hz area to experiment, a lot of the heaviness in the bass disappeared in deep bass music, even music where there was energy below 30hz felt unatural and in a strange way, physical yet thinner without the 30-35hz properly present.

It seems maximum impact in EDM music is achieved by boosting around 27-28hz with a rather sharp peak. It's a nice balance between physical impact and audible low end. Above this, and the music gets muddy if you boost too much, below this, and the "bass" boost is below the absolute majority of music.

What are your experiences with low end sound signatures?

I got a pair of speakers I wanted to mount inside a printed body so I could make a portable speaker, the only issue is with how close the mounting holes are to the basket I fear that there won't be enough material to properly hold the screws without potentially breaking the plastic. I also wanted to use those metal screw mounts that you can melt into the plastic but it looks like there's not enough room for those either...

I want to make an amplifier for 5.1 channel and I want to know how to make one big pot for the 5 channel.

Song

My computer audio setup consist of a ZK-MT21 2.1 channel 50W+50W+100W amp hooked up to passive speakers and sub, but I was having horrible ground loop interference issues whenever my GPU is working. I tried one of those ground loop isolators but it didn't work for me. So I got one of these DAC to make use of my optical toslink output from my computer to break this ground loop.

It did eliminate my ground loop interference issues, but the sound quality was very poor. It was mid-heavy with the treble and bass completely absent. I felt like I was listening to stereo AM radio, so I took it apart to investigate and set out to fix the problem: with help from Google's AI.

On paper the GC8418 should be able to provide a good analogue audio output, so my attention turned to the 4558D dual Op-Amp. Given that this device is powered by a 5 V power supply, the 18 V minimum 8 V voltage span requirement of the 4558D wasn't being fulfilled, but that wasn't the only problem. It seems the components for the output stage was just whatever they had lying around. So here's the fix to obtain great audio quality from this device.

-Swap U2 (4558D Op-Amp) for a TI TLV9062

-C37, C38 - swap to 1.5 nf capacitor, original capacitance was too big killing all the treble.

-C47, C8 - delete

-C24, C31 - previously unpopulated, these are in parallel with C47 and C8, install 47uf 16V electrolytic caps, original caps were too small killing the bass.

Hand soldering 0603 sized SMD components is not for the faint of heart. It took me a few tries over 4 hours to get it all soldered and working, but I'm very happy with the audio quality after the fix.