I have a concrete slab (1 month old) for a 12x16 shed. I was going to put some of this sealer down before the shed is placed on it.

one quick question before applying.

AS1_1315_VOC.pdf

I have both available, should I spray down first with a sprayer then follow up with brush roll or should I just spray down and no brush roll at all?

Never really done concrete sealer before so not sure the best way to use it.

Are there any tutorials or not insanely expensive premade DIY sets I can get online?

Hi all, I’m trying to surprise my husband by slowly fixing up an unused room to transition into a hangout/game room. One thing is we use the closet in that room for pantry overflow (think Costco size trashbag boxes that don’t fit in the actual small pantry we have, etc) so I’m wanting to swap the existing closet door with a hidden bookcase door. The room itself is small so the extra vertical storage space for his games and display items (older Xbox& PS games &dvd collection, trinkets etc ) would be nice, but I need the door to be functional either sliding like a barn door bookcase (if that exists) or a bookcase door that would swing in towards us as we open it.

The sets I’ve seen online for these doors are like $800+ so I’m trying to do this budget friendly but only if I can make it look nice. We’ve got basic tools like saw but nothing insanely fancy like in a woodworking shop.

Hi there,

I have a very small crawl space between my house and the basement (about 2ft tall) and I am interested in adding insulation. It's pretty hard to move around in there but I am set on doing this.

The floor of the crawl space is concrete, and the exterior walls of my home are stone. I live in Montana and the winters can get chilly!

I've been considering spray foam and/or fiberglass batts but am open to all options. Any advice will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

DIY HOW TO INSTALL A HANDRAIL

tlbmetalproducts.com

[https://youtu.be/eVQICeMd6Jw?is=6PIblyQY6CZ16\\_6f\](https://youtu.be/eVQICeMd6Jw?is=6PIblyQY6CZ16_6f)

 
HOW TO INSTALL A HANDRAIL
Handrails are essential safety features installed alongside staircases and ramps to help provide support and stability, especially for people with mobility challenges or balance issues. 

In this detailed guide, we’re going to walk you through the precise steps of installing a handrail to help you enhance the safety and accessibility of your home's stairway. From the initial preparation to the final adjustments, each section is designed to equip you with the knowledge and skills needed to successfully install a handrail. 

Regardless of whether you're a contractor, a DIY enthusiast, or you just want to better understand the process, this guide will provide some much-needed guidance.

\*(All writing on the wall is done on painters tape, that you apply before marking the wall)
STEP 1: LOCATING AND MARKING STUDS
To securely attach the handrail brackets, you have to properly anchor them directly into your wall’s studs. 

Begin by using an electronic stud finder to scan the area where you've marked for the handrail height to find your studs. After that move the stud finder horizontally across the wall, starting from one end of the tape line to the other, and mark each spot where the device indicates a stud's presence.

For additional accuracy try to use a magnetic stud finder that detects the metal fasteners in the studs. All you have to do is pass this tool over the marked areas to confirm the stud’s locations; the magnetic pull will be noticeably stronger when directly over a drywall screw.

Once you finish marking your studs along the staircase, identify which studs you will attach your handrail brackets to. Make sure to choose the studs that are going to be evenly spaced along your handrail. 
STEP 2: PROPER PREPARATION
The next step in installing a handrail is determining the correct height to help ensure safety and compliance with building codes and ADA standards. 

According to these codes and standards, handrails should typically be about 34 to 38 inches tall from the nose of the step to the top of the rail. 

For example’s sake, we’re going to work with a height of 36 inches, which is optimal for most adults and helps provide stability and support as they ascend or descend stairs.

To begin, mark the height you want on the wall from the nose of the step. Since handrails are about an inch thick, you'll need to mark the wall an inch below the finish height that you want. Do this for the steps that are on the left and right side of the stud closest to the bottom of the staircase and the stud that is closest to the top. Has to be studs that will have the bracket attached to it.   

Next, use a strip of painter's tape to connect the 2 marked heights from the lower part of the staircase and the top part of the staircase. This will act as a visual guide to help you maintain the angle of the staircase and the top of the bracket of where the handrail sits will be at the same level as the guide. 

STEP 3: INSTALLING THE BRACKETS
Once you've marked the stud locations accurately, the next important step is aligning and securing the brackets to these studs. For the handrail we’re working with in our example we’re going to be installing a total of 4 brackets. The top and bottom bracket will be the first to be installed. 

When positioning the brackets it's essential to align the top of the bracket with the guide marked by the tape to ensure that the handrail will be at the right height and evenly supported along its length. After confirming that it’s properly aligned, mark the wall through the bracket's hole to pinpoint exactly where you will drill.

Drill pilot holes, using a ⅜ drill bit, into the studs at your marked points, and then secure each bracket with the ½ inch lag bolt. Do this for the top and bottom bracket. The brackets in between will be installed once the handrail is up and will help as a guide, to determine the height of the brackets. Leave the ½ inch lag bolt a little loose to allow the brackets to swivel into place once the handrail is placed on top. You can tighten once they are in place and at the exact angle of the staircase (tighten during step 4). 

STEP 4: DRILLING AND SECURING THE HANDRAIL TO BRACKETS
Selecting the appropriate drill bit is essential before drilling into the handrail, and it should correspond to the size of the screws you'll use to attach the handrail to the brackets. For #14 self-tapping sheet metal screws, we’re going to use a 3/16 drill bit.

Before drilling make sure that you carefully align the handrail on top of the brackets and check for even spacing and alignment throughout. If you need to, don’t be afraid to use clamps to hold the handrail in place to free up both hands for more precise drilling and placement of your handrail. Also note, that there should be a 2 inch gap between the handrail and wall. 

Begin attaching the handrail by drilling a pilot hole underneath the handrail of where the bracket is at. The 2 holes at the top of the bracket will serve as a guide, as to where the pilot hole will be drilled. 

Start with the top bracket and drill one hole and then screw in the sheet metal screw with a drill. Make sure no to overtighten so that the thread doesn’t strip. Go to the bottom bracket and repeat the process. Now you can do the remaining holes from the top and bottom bracket. 

If you’re finding it difficult to hold the handrail while drilling, try to mark the screw locations on the handrail. After marking, you can drill pilot holes in the handrail on a stable surface, and then align these holes with the holes on the bracket. 

After completing the top and bottom Bracket you can go ahead and repeat steps 3 and 4 for the middle brackets. This time the Handrail itself will work as the guide. One thing to note is to make sure your handrail isn’t hanging, meaning that it is straight from one end to the other. You can see this by going to one end of the handrail and looking at the outer edge of the handrail while closing one eye. If it looks straight just place the brackets where the handrail is at. If there is a curve, lower or raise the bracket accordingly. Also remember to keep the 2 inch gap between the handrail and wall. 

IT’S EASY TO HAVE A HANDRAIL IN YOUR HOME
Remember that a handrail is much more than just a safety feature; it's a piece of your home's character, uniquely blending functionality with style. Armed with these steps in mind, you're all set to enhance your staircase to help make it a safer and more inviting space. 

Whether you're diving into this project solo or guiding a pro, don’t forget that a sturdy and stylish handrail speaks volumes about the care and attention to detail that goes into your home. 

Hello everyone,

I have a furnaces where the burners are not staying on. I cleaned the flame sensor and used a clip to temporarily see if it was the primary switch. I have the same furnace in the upper unit that works fine and the burners stay on. Any advice would be appreciated. Attached is the video of the furnace that doesn’t work and below is the videos of both furnaces. It is a Fraser Johnston that is 25+ years old

https://imgur.com/user/ywv2kt577w31415

Gonna have some fence staining and house painting to do and decided to bite the bullet and go with an airless sprayer unit. Wondered about the experiences of others using any of the 3 products I mentioned. Def want something I can use with a 5 gallon bucket or 1 gallon can; not sure if an extension rod is useful? Trying to keep the cost reasonable. I've used plenty of the littler Wagner units and what a PITA having to constantly refill the small container! Any advice is appreciated, thanks!

Started using the heating again and noticed one radiator gets hot at the top but stays lukewarm at the bottom. The others heat up more evenly. I checked it with a tc002c duo thermal camera plugged into my phone, both shortly after turning the heating on and after it had been running a while. Same pattern each time. Not sure how much of a temperature difference is normal, or whether something is restricting the flow.

Haven't taken anything apart yet. Is there a way to check for a blockage without draining it?

Edit: In case my post was TL;DR, I just wanted to state up front that

1. I've already decided to install the Acopian Birdsavers, not decals or other window markings,

2. I'm hoping to avoid drilling holes in the side of my house, and

3. I would like the Birdsavers to hang a few inches in front of the window so that birds that are approaching from an angle or not watching where they're going have an extra millisecond to change course.

Thanks again for all of your input! I'll be back in a couple hours to read/respond.

This is a question for the kind of people who like to cruise all of the aisles of a hardware store, mentally inventorying all of the different gadgets and thinking of outside-the-box ways of using them!

I need help brainstorming a way to attach [Acopian Birdsavers](https://www.birdsavers.com/) to my windows. I can't really search Google for this, since I don't know what I'm searching for!

I want to hang vertical lengths of 550 paracord outside my living room windows to prevent bird collisions.

The most common way to install Birdsavers is to screw some kind of plastic or wood strip above the window, with holes drilled every 4 inches to hang the paracord.

But I don't want to drill holes in the side of the house, and also, I'd prefer have the paracord lines hang a few inches away from the windows, not right up against them. That way, birds will encounter the cords sooner and have some time and space to change direction if they're approaching at an angle or not looking where they're going.

My house has vinyl siding and vinyl window frames with a lip that I could attach stainless steel mini spring clamps to. I've already bought the clamps.

I would use 2 clamps per window, with a length of paracord running between them and the vertical paracord strips tied to it at 4" intervals. The Acopian Birdsavers website has instructions for attaching the verticals so that they don't shift or untie. So I don't need help with that part. But the website doesn't address my idea to extend the horizontal cord a few inches away from the window. So I need to attach something to the clamps to make that happen.

The clamps have small holes drilled through the pinchy parts, so I could attach something to them with size 4 bolts and nuts (and washers if necessary).

This is where I could really use some help: brainstorming what to attach to the clamps, that would extend a few inches out from the windows and allow me to attach the horizontal paracord to the other end.

So far, I've come up with the idea of using 3-inch stainless or galvanized steel corner braces (L-shaped brackets) that have 2 drill holes on each leg. I could use a size 4 nut/bolt/washer to attach it to the clamp, and if the hole on the corner brace isn't big enough for the paracord to fit through, I can tie a knot on the end of the paracord and use wire to attach it. But I worry a little about the pointy corners on a corner brace. The whole point is to not injure any birds that get too close! And I wonder if 3-inch corner braces might be heavy enough to pull away from the window frame, or to pull the window frame away from the house! (The paracord itself is remarkably lightweight, even when soaked.) I would experiment with one window before doing them all, because these windows are very high and I want to minimize the number of trips up the ladder!

But what else could fit the bill, maybe better than the corner braces? It would need to be rustproof and long-lasting, so nothing that rots (wood) or turns brittle with age (plastic). It can't be too expensive, because I'll need 10 of them for my 5 windows. It needs to have some way of attaching to the clamp on one end and the paracord on the other.

I thought about an eye hook screw/bolt, but if it were long enough to serve the purpose, I think the threads would be too wide to fit the size 4 hole in the spring clamp.

I also thought about using stainless/galvanized steel wire of a gauge that's thick and stiff enough not to droop over time but still bendy enough to shape with hand tools. I don't know if that exists, or if I could buy it by the foot, since I wouldn't need very much.

I even looked at door stops, the kind that screw straight into baseboards, but the screws are too big, and they're probably not rustproof, or they'd be too expensive and hard to find.

Any suggestions?

Does anyone have experience doing their own tinting on home windows? We have a west facing sliding glass back door that just gets hammered by the sun from 1pm until it goes down and the house is getting so hot. So I’m looking for ways to reduce the heat and I’m between blackout curtains or tinting

I’m in the process of clearing the garage out so I have full access to the wall to build some shelving. It’s a one piece garage door, two car garage. One side has more space next to the garage door than the other. I have 24” from the garage door frame to drywall. I’d like to run the shelving off the front wall back until I get the max reach of the garage door in the open position, and then from there I’d like to build the shelving out to 32” to account for my storage totes and some larger items. In doing so I’ll free up lots of space on the opposite side of the garage and I’ll be able to maximize the space on the shelving. I did the exact same thing albeit with different lengths and depth in my connex boxes at work and it worked out great. That being said, I was thinking, is there any reason not to do this? Besides ease of the build of course, or aesthetics? I plan to just double up the 2x4 legs and shelf joists and screw them together in a way that will allow me to remove the longer and deeper framing separate from the shallower and shorter frame, in case I do decide for some reason to remove it. Originally I planned on 24” depth all the way back ending about 6 feet before the washer and dryer at the back wall, but after counting the amount of the big storage totes I’ll have once I have everything gone through and organized, having them sideways on the shelving would limit my space a considerable amount so having them the the deep way would free up other shelf space.

Also if it matters to anyone, the dryer venting runs down the wall to the front wall, so the rear will be screwed directly to the studs with no rear legs.

Anyways, thanks for reading!

MODS: I have searched for my specific question and haven’t found anything exactly what I’m asking, and I will post photos of my project after I complete it. Thanks.

Hey gang,

Bought a small 70a Schneider Electric HOM24L70FCP main lug for my off grid cabin to act as my main panel (with a 2-pole MCB between inverter and panel to protect the wire) and, from what I read, it doesn't come with a grounding bar so I ordered one separately.

So it gets here, I pop it open and take a gander only to see it comes with a green screw of bonding. I'm not sure how or why I didn't think it would but sometimes I surprise myself.

In this case, do I still need a separate ground bar and use an appropriately sized wire to bond both or will I be able to simply use the bonding screw and wire ground from the neutral since this is the main panel/disconnect?

Hi all, kitchen faucet cold water line has a leak and it's coming from the top. Pretty sure I need to replace the faucet itself since all the hose lines are fused together. I've got all the plumbing disconnected but I can't figure out how to get the faucet fixture off. The crescent shaped nuts are real thin against the sink body and I can't use my telescoping basin wrench to even grab them. The two scrw bottoms you see had black caps on them. The two bolts that are in there originally were my target, but they are confusing because one is a perfectly round cylinder and one is like a flattened bar? What is going on?

photo here, happy to submit more

So I have a old Redmi note 11 and the screen stoped working and the repear cost more that a new phone so I got a new phone and I want to do something creative whit the old one only the screen doesn't work . I really like metal and survival like zombie apocalypse survival thinks and I like ancient weapons like bows and swords so if I can make something close to these three thinks whit it I would be very happy ( sorry if I have bad English it's not my first language)

I am replacing the escutcheon around my shower head. I plan to caulk around the outside. However, there is a gap between the inside hole and the shower head arm. Is there a way to neatly fill this gap to prevent water from getting back there?

I have an 18x13 shop. We have done a lot of work on our house in the last year and have more projects slated. The shop had insulation put in before we moved in, but nothing over the studs(open rafters too). I think I have settled on putting osb, then 5/8 fire drywall on the walls, probably some cheap paint too. I only need drywall on one wall because it's 3ft from the property line and while I don't care too much, we do plan to sell at some point. For that reason and the cleaner look at realistically about an extra $100-$200, I figured that I should just drywall all walls and then do a quick and dirty mud job over. Any suggestions from people who've done it? Seems like a pretty nice idea to me, custom hanging stuff wherever I want, impact resistance, etc.

Building a banquette. The frame was easy with 2x4s. I'm using 3/4 ply for the lid and hinge strip trim out. Planning on using a surface flush piano hinge but am uncertain on the best way to install it. The frame is already fastened to wall but have not fastened the trim out or lid. Should i assemble the hinge on them first, then nail and glue down the hinge trimout? I'm open to other hinges.

Also, is there any issues with water based primer and paint on thin veneered plywood? Hopefully I'll be okay with thin coats.

Thanks

I have one of those "Instant Near Boiling" under sink water heaters. The faucet has begun dripping nonstop though.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/mAfzx2WxWzYofVLz6

It drips when the water heater itsself is unplugged and not heating water. Of course it stops when I cut off the water supply.

Anyone have any experience with these faucets and know where the secret failure point is?

Hi all, I'm trying to mount a TV in our bedroom with a method I haven't seen before and can't find much info to support online. So I'm hoping someone has an idea on this.

Below is the room in question. What I'm trying to do is mount a TV to wall E. The objectives are:

1-The TV is near flush to and facing wall E when it's not in use. 2- It can move to be viewed by the bed when in use 3a- The transition to its "in use" position, will either slide horizontally out from wall E or use 3b 3b- The transition to its "in use" position, will rotate radially from a position at 12 facing the wall, to a position at 3 where it's in view but still in line with the wall

Room - Elevation View

Hopefully this makes sense. I'm not sure this is even afforded for with mounts available online, but with the space in the room this is the option we want to take

UODATE: coworker arrived so we are literally just taking the table apart… will update if it works!

I got a drawer stuck & im at work, the object that’s lodged inside the drawer is my phone, there’s a little lip at the front that it’s stuck on & I’ve tried almost everything beyond cutting it open (which I doubt I can do)… I’m making this post on the company iPad if u were curious… we have no wire hangers & neither do any stores around me do so I’m kinda stuck here,,, please help!! My shift ends in 3 hours and I need my phone for work </3 hitting it didn’t work, jiggling it to all hell didn’t work - the phone is in a little box as well so there’s support at the back keeping it in that position… I’ve even tried a balloon , , , I can access the contents inside through the left side of the drawer but I have nothing long enough to reach my phone to push it out of the way,,, sos please I am fully alone as well so I don’t have anyone 2 ask for help </3 I’ve literally looked up everything and done everything I can possibly do . . .

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Hey everyone, I wanted to share a quick walkthrough of our hands-on robotics workspace. We’ve been experimenting with building various projects from scratch, starting right from basics like 1-bit computers and custom battery packs, and moving up to more complex builds.

In the video, you can catch a glimpse of:

• A custom pick-and-place robot (MK-4 Merkava)
• Basic electronic starter kits, power electronics, and MOSFET integrations
• Microcontroller-based spider/quadruped bots
• Small humanoid robots and custom mobility projects

It’s been an incredible journey exploring everything from sensors to advanced power electronics. Let me know what you think of the builds or if you have any questions about the electronics setup

ur family recently purchased a Goliath Ignite 60” in-ground hoop. After seeing professional install prices, I’ve decided to DIY this. I’ve consulted YouTube University for guidance on all the steps, and feel comfortable about everything except for install location to account for overhang. Since I’m dealing with concrete and something permanent, I want to make sure I do it right.

General consensus is that 2-4’ of overhang is considered ideal, and 2’ of overhang is the minimum for safety and convenience. This is even according to the manufacturer’s website.

What I’m struggling with is with the rim at 10’ height, overhang on this hoop is listed as 26”. So that only leaves me with 2” of wiggle room until I breach the minimum threshold of 2’ overhang.

But then I have to consider that the install hole is supposed to be dug 16x16”, and the hoop pole is 4x4”. So if I center the 4x4 pole in the 16x16 concrete form, AND I dig the hole right up against the driveway, now I’m down to 20” max overhang.

And now consider that it is not recommended to pour the concrete form right up against the driveway, so let’s leave 2” of grass/dirt between them, now I’m down to 18” max overhang.

Am I stupid? Is my thought process flawed? Or it is impossible to create the 2’ minimum overhang with this hoop?

Thanks for reading!

I need to add protrusions for various vents, disconnects, etc. in my renovation and I’m planning to use PVC mounting blocks cut from a plank of Azek.

I want to know if there is a minimally invasive approach to protecting the sheathing given that I eventually want to replace all existing Tyvek and siding. Lots of problems with water tightness and flashing particularly with my windows as I’m seeing rotted sheathing, not to mention I have to eventually replace bottom plates and sill plates which are rotted from decades of sitting concrete slab.

I know you’re supposed to overlap your Tyvek and flashing tape in such a way that water will bead down but I don’t see a practical way of doing that without removing damn near every piece of siding, which is nailed at both the bottom and the top of every plank by the way. Do I need Tyvek behind my PVC blocks or can I just run rows of flashing tape behind it with a slight couple inches of “border“ past the block, such that I can tape new Tyvek over this border in a picture frame fashion later on?

I recently purchased a tiara/crown as part of a Halloween costume I’m creating. The crown has a small light, powered by one AAA battery with a switch that powers the light. The light only blinks when turned on and id like to see if I can make some adjustments so it’s static instead of blinking. Is this something I can accomplish with a few small tools?

I can certainly post photos and product information as needed.