Hey all! I'm currently working on a project to create a hand controlled, double screen display and need help with the specific items I need for this.

More info about the project: I plan for both of my hands to have three pressure sensors on the pads of my fingers (thumb will not have one) that are coded with specific images, which the pressure outputs are sent to a board. And said outputs are only sent if the pressure reaches a certain threshold. The board then takes that input and with wifi, sends it to one of the two display boards. Both display boards are connected with a wire so the input corresponding image is displayed on their respective screens simultaneously. I probably didn't explain it well but hopefully the next section makes is more clear.

Items I have on my list so far: (These are all from AdaFruit) For the pressure sensors, I'll be using the round force-sensitive-resistor (0.3~10 force newton). The wifi transmitter board will be the QT Py ESP32-S3 WiFi dev board with STEMMA QT. The wifi receivers will be the Qualia ESP32-S3 and will be connected with a QT to QT cable. Both boards will be connected to their own screens, the round RGB TTL TFT display, 4" 720x720. All coded with CurcuitPython and ESP-NOW.

The trouble: I'm pretty sure the qualia and screen set up works (based on AdaFruit's double qualia display tutorial) and the QT wifi connected with ESP-NOW to one of the qualias also seems like it would work. Let me know if otherwise. The main thing I'm having trouble with is the multiple round pressure sensors connecting to the QT. I know that the pressure sensors are analog and can't communicate with the QT through a cable alone (from what I've read of the tutorial and info pages). I'm guessing that I have to use a QT to male/ 2 pin female cable plus whatever else to actually make the pressure outputs readable to the QT. I've heard of a 10komega resistor but I still have to look more into that. If this isn't possible then any pressure sensor buttons that would work with the QT would be helpful. I also can't do any soldering 😬, so non-soldered connections are a must.

Any help about any of this would be extremely appreciated!

Hello !

I know it may be stupid to ask, but I've litteraly no experience in electronic sooo..

I've an old e-reader (bq cervantes touch) but the battery as no more charges. I dismantle the plastic part (or it crumbles into my hand we don't know), so I have access to the battery. It seems to be "just" glued to the motherboard and clip to it by a red and black cable. But I can't find the exact battery for the exact same e-reader as me. (I forgot to take a pictures of the backside orz but it look like the second pictures, but the little plastic part on the end of the cables is black)

The battery caracteristic are : 1500 mAh 3,7V

Is it possible to me to find a battery that have the same caracteristics but the size (and fit into a custom shell that I work on), for my e-reader to work ? And mostly, is it safe ?

Thanks for reading and have a nice day ~

Introducing design electronics open sourced electronics components design software which has an agent if Claude code / Gemini cli / GPT codex installed on your system can be accessed via CLI then Claude can design a circuit board for you.

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Check this out still early stages report any bugs or contribute. ⚡️

design electronics

So I'm fully grasp in the tism rn so forgive the question. I'm wondering about using an old HP laptop screen and lid for a project that could benefit from a screen. is there way to determine what the pins are on the back of a screen. I do not have a part number or anything and if I was to guess imma have to figure out what the screen is and check some sort of technical drawing. But is there a way to determine what is what without that so I could say convert it to HDMI? Thank you in advance.

What do you guys think

i started with a 17inch crt display but it was way to small so i changed to 24 inch display

I am also waiting for an artist friend of mine to paint the machine

What should i do to improve

Hi everyone!

I've developed Avenler, a free, browser-based electrical design tool for electrical installations.

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What features would you find most useful? What would you improve or add?

Thanks for checking it out!

This my project :]

Current work in progress for an iMac G4 mod, starting with converting a busted display into an external monitor using a replacement LP170WQ1 panel used in the LG Gram 17 laptop. This LCD panel has a resolution of 2560x1600 (WQXGA) at 60 Hz and is a perfect size match for the original 17" panel. I bought it from Aliexpress as a bundle with a driver board (supporting USB-C and mini-HDMI display input, and microUSB for power in the case of mini-HDMI): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009505924522.html depending on deals it costs around $100-150 USD.

As you can see, the original iMac was already not working and in terrible condition, so nothing of value was lost except for cutting the cables on either end of the neck. All exterior parts were given a good scrub in soapy water. I didn't want to open the neck to run through a USB-C cable for example because I didn't have a spare just in case, knowing the difficulty of putting the neck back together again. So, I opted for an external, less elegant solution of running a thin USB-C ribbon cable from inside the display housing though a tiny gap between the back-plate and the (new) bezel, where it is connected to a female-female (8K 240W 'certified') adapter into which a USB-C cable+computer can be plugged. (I know such USB-C adapters are not the best idea for many reasons, but I couldn't find a longer thin ribbon cable that was of a practical length to connect the driver board directly to a computer.) Likewise for the small controller board, whose flex ribbon cable can slot through the same gap. I will try to 3d print a case to house these two parts rather than let them hang outside like currently shown.

Anyway this arrangement is working with a Surface Pro running Windows and also an M1 iMac (in the background, which coincidentally also has a busted screen, the infamous horizontal lines problem). As the original display bezel was also completely destroyed, I measured the bezel dimensions and ordered a new one made of 2mm clear acrylic from a laser-cutting shop (the protective paper sheet is still on in the photos). This frame is kapton-taped on top of the LCD panel, which is then stuck to the metal bracket in the display housing with mounting tape (since the LCD panel is so thin and light, the metal bracket can be kept for weight to maintain the correct neck tension). I will also cut a smaller white frame out of a vinyl sheet to glue on top at a later date, which would ideally make the bezel look like the original again. I will share a vector file of the bezel dimensions to scale in a future update post.

Thanks for viewing, and any suggestions are welcome!

I’m a first-year Mechanical Engineering student working on a group project about a Smart Parking System. We’re trying to find a technical solution to the problem of drivers wasting time and fuel searching for available parking spaces, especially in crowded areas.

Our initial idea is to use ultrasonic sensors to detect whether a parking space is occupied, an Arduino or other microcontroller to process the data, and an LED display to guide drivers to available spaces. We’re also considering adding a mobile app to show parking availability.

I’d love to hear your thoughts on a few questions:

1. Is this approach practical for a small-scale parking lot?
2. Are there any better or more affordable alternatives to ultrasonic sensors?
3. What challenges might we face when implementing this system in real-world conditions?
4. How can we make the system more energy-efficient, reliable, and cost-effective?

Any suggestions, personal experiences, or examples of existing smart parking solutions would be really helpful for our project.