I'm doing a batch of corkscrews in mild steel, hardening the actual screw portion using superquench. I'd like to rust-proof the entire piece, and I'm looking to do a flaxseed oil finish. My google-fu puts the smoke point of flaxseed oil at 225ºF, so I'd been thinking of baking the coated pieces at 230 or 235 for a few hours. Is doing that likely to undo the effects of using superquench, or am I safe as long as I stay below a particular temperature? If it is a threat, any suggestions for a comprehensive rust-proofing? The way I was taught just waxes the handle and leaves the screw bare, which had a bit of rust already forming on the screw in under a month, so anything that would improve on that would be appealing.

Any recommendations for angle grinders? I mostly work in mild steel and I'm looking for something small, usable, and cheap. I mostly make decorative work rather than anything that requires a really good hardening.

Has anyone done any maintenance on a hand crank blower like this? I’ve inherited this one that has fallen into slight disrepair. I need to take the crank arm off or at least replace the rotating wood grip.

For a while now, I’ve really wanted to get into blacksmithing, but I don’t know how or where to start. What are the basic items I need to buy to begin?

So me and the boys (and girl) had a weekend of making copper-damaskus knifes

Just have a ded one and was hoping there was some extra use for it.

I came back to Reddit after a year off of social media just for this subreddit. Anyway, I’m in the process of buying a house and (hopefully) getting a smithy setup again. I’m working on getting things rounded up to make setup as easy as possible. Just got an anvil (that cheap Doyle anvil is what I could afford for now) and now I’m making the stand with my dad. It’s ending up WAY more expensive than I thought, and I know it’s because I’m relying on big box stores. So far I’ve got:
3 4x4s
12 10-inch lag screws
Liquid nails
12” drill bit
10’ chain
Roll of 1/2” leather strips
And I’m at around $250 in materials. Is this about average pricing now? I know I could probably find cheaper stuff if I looked harder, this was what I found easily available.

I found it on the side of the road just now. I'm planning to clean up and polish the face for planishing. Just hoping someone can clue me in on what it's called, and what profession would use it. Thanks!

Anybody order and or have one? I’m looking at getting one but want to know how shipping and everything went. Thanks!

I'm looking to make matching iron bracelets for my wife and myself, but there are a couple of aspects of the project that I'm uncertain about and would like some advice:

1. Figuring out the fit: For my wife's bracelet, I've traced the insides of the rigid bracelets she owns already, so that should give me a good reference, but is there a way to plan mine or am I just going to have to cool it, check it, and maybe adjust?
2. Bending the twist: I'm planning to twist the center part of the bracelet, but I'm not sure how best to curve it afterwards. Best idea I have is to use a soft mallet (wet wood), either against a similarly soft base or around the horn (might squash the twists on the inside, but that's not very visible and might make it more comfortable?). I might also try letting it cool slightly so the center is hot but the edges are somewhat stiffer.

Beyond these two points, any advice in general from those who have made bracelets before? Thanks in advance for any help!

It's an item for sale, made in Italy, 40s or 50s.

All I know is that it weighs about 330g (11.6oz) and is about 12cm (4,7 inch) tall.

The seller says it's bronze, but it looks like those scratches on the inside reveal a different metal.

Hello

we're doing a youth volunteering project in Norway and will built a forge for blacksmithing.

Unfortunatly our snith got sick, so we gonna have to make plans and start without him this week.

We have one architecture student and a bricklayer with us.

Currently brainstorming wich material to use, for the cold and harsh climate in norway.

So we thought to dive into how vikings built forges.

Any ideas on resources? Thank you

I’m currently making some railroad spike knives for my platoon and have a few questions about the process
I have the knives pounded into shape and have put them on the grinder to get the blade roughly sharpened (I’ll actually sharpen them once they’re completely done) but I’m not really sure what to do next. I have some used motor oil from when I changed my oil last and was wondering if that was useable for quenching but I don’t know if I should do that now that I’ve put them on the grinder. There’s some other things I’m trying to figure out but can’t really figure out the phrasing so.

TLDR
what do I do once they’re in shape to get them useable?

So i bought this (vevor) forge over a year ago and used it once. i applied rigidizer and refractory cement. I applied 2 coats but not sure if i cured it correctly. When i first fired it up it started to turn black and emit an odd smell. I wasn’t sure if it was healthy to inhale lol. anyways as you can see there are many cracks but i can’t see any fibers. It’s hard on the inside but there was one spot on the outside that dented when i pressed on it ಠ_ಠ . I wanted to know if i should just add another coat of cement and go on about my day or if there is anything else i should do/worry about.

Its a mr volcano orange solution

BLUF: I'm looking to upgrade my fuel hose and don't know what I'm doing.

Howdy

I was gifted a Cast Master CMF 2000, it's a little double burner propane forge and it does alright.

I'm looking to upgrade the gas hose to one with a PSI gauge (0-30) but know next to nothing about gas line safety. The current (stock) hose has a 20 PSIG regulator but no gauge for me to know what PSI I'm putting into the forge.

What is the important information I need to look for in a new hose? Is there one out there that's recommended? I've heard steel braided is a nice to have too.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

V/r,

Cody

Did a first etch in vinegar and it appears to be wrought iron with a high carbon edge.

Made this Damascus guitar pick today out of an offcut from a Alabama Damascus billet I had. Hand polished to 5000grit than buffed, etched, and coffee etched. Think it came out great!

Took a blue ribbon and a NOPE from a girl!

I may be inexperienced, but I don't see why you wouldn't be able to combine the 2.

As the title says, I'm looking for a forge that doesn't use Kaowool? That stuff scares the Bejesus out of me like asbestos and I know you can coat it in refectory cement, but I'm just always anxious I'll burn through the side of the refectory and won't notice for like 3 months.

I'm a classically trained smith using coal, but feel like a gas forge would be way less temperamental to work with, not to mention I might have better luck having the "It's like a grill" conversation with my landlord if it doesn't obnoxiously smoke.

Hey all, new blcksmith here. Ive settled into a new home with a shed and finally have been able to set up a blacksmiths shop. Ive had an antique Peter wright anvil, estimating ~150lbs and made a coal forge for myself and have gotten to use it a few times and am enjoying myself.

the anvil i have is very old, and not well maintained. When i got it, it was in a barn under rotting wood and tarps and had pits and bowling on the face. I have carefully ground the face to flatten out the shallow hammer marks and pits, but it has some really chewed up edges and a pretty noticeably concaved middle. It still has good rebound, like 70-90% in most spots, but i worry about machining it too much and ruining the face.

So the question I have is a choice between 3 options. Do i leave my Peter Wright as it is and use what I have? Do I buy a mid-quality anvil so i can learn on something that is at least in good shape? or continue to work the Peter wright and risk its intergrity. dont have $1000+ for a pristine Peddinghaus or Nimba anvil, but i can comfortably afford to get a smaller steel anvil like one of those 110lb Vevor deals on amazon.

I know the age old addage is "use what you have" but I worry that I may be learning bad habits by having to work on an anvil with bad edges and a 1inch bowl in the middle.

All thoughts are welcome. Ill take some photos when i get home if people are interactive.

Thank you all