Is there any possible way to force FSD to stay in the HOV lane, or stay in any specific lane?

Most of the time, I just want it to drive in this lane, but it constantly wants to exit the HOV. It is the most annoying thing in existence, especially when I'm coming home from work. The HOV is the only fast lane; if you get out, there's traffic in every other lane and you're going to get stuck. It's so infuriating when it wants to get out so stupidly.

The reason I have the Mad Max profile on is because it's the fastest and I like how quick it is. Is there anything I can do about this? If anybody has a suggestion, please let me know.

Just curious.

I turned my temp to 22 degrees and it’s red it front and back, new owner never saw this.

To start I have a Model 3 2027 premium on the most recent halloween update. Just got the car 2 weeks ago. I am getting popping/crackling noises when I use the tesla karaoke mics/hub. I only get it when the Tesla mic hub is plugged in (even if the mics are off). It is only when using the karaoke app. All other music is fine. I have soft and hard reset the car. Tried different cables. Switched between audio sources. I have tried plugging the karaoke mics hub directly into the glovebox usb and using a hub. No matter what once a song starts the popping/crackling starts in the audio. Light sync is off. I tried turning sentry and dashcam off. Halloween mode on and off. Driving and not driving. Vocals/reverb different vocal settings on and off in karaoke app/mic. Music equalizer at all different setting from the normal settings. Still the popping /crackling start right when i start a caraoke song. And it is only in the caraoke app once again. All other audio in every other app is perfectly fine. If anyone has any suggestions it would be much appreciated!! Or if anyone just thinks it is just a bug right now? Or should I bring it in for service? Thanks all.

Looking at a 2018 Model 3 at a NY dealer and trying to figure out if it's worth it before I commit. I'm in Texas so I'd be shipping it.

Dual motor, looks like Performance (underlined “dual motor”, red calipers, spoiler)
FSD previously purchased but ending this month, upgraded to HW3 per the listing photos
131k miles, one owner for 8 years, personal use
Clean AutoCheck, no accidents, clean title
Sold at auction as a Tesla trade-in before the dealer got it
$14,990 with all dealer fees included. Dealer is rated about 3.9 stars.
My all-in with Texas tax and shipping would be around $17k.

What I'm trying to figure out:
Is that a fair price for a Performance with FSD at this mileage?
What battery degradation should I expect at 131k? I do plan to get an independent battery health check before paying.
Anything specific to check on a Performance this age (brakes, suspension, 20" wheels, front motor)?
I can post the listing photos if that helps. Thanks!

Hey, I have a 2023 RWD LFP M3 at 67,000KM (41K miles) and was wondering if I should get the rear motor fluid changed? Has anyone else done it through a Tesla service centre? I would like this car to last 20 years. Thanks!

Trying the source a thermistor harness portion of ASY,HRN,MDLX,LEFT HAND
DRIVE, TASC2,DAMP,FRUNK(3072447-02-C) that connects the the negative terminal of a legacy Tesla Model X 12 volt battery harness. Anyone have a model x at a junk yard or parting out the car? Trying to avoid replacing the entire harness assembly and am hoping to find someone that can cut off the portion that I need.

I am reinstalling my Gen 2 Wall Connector after having it in storage for the last 5 years, but I am wiring through the back, while it was originally wired with conduit from the top, and I can't recall what I did with the original plug. Does anyone have any recommendations or leads on where to find or purchase a top plug? Thanks!

I drive a 2021 model 3 LR with 100,000 miles on it and I did not realize there was widespread battery failures on these things until recently. No pack replacement or battery errors yet but I'm beginning to get anxiety about my battery warranty expiring soon. I heard failures clustered more around the newer Panasonic packs that they introduced into the long ranges in April 21 and mine was manufactured February 2021 so I'm wondering if I caught a break. Any other 2021 owners still going strong at high mileage?

Hello, I own a 2024 MYP I bought it brand new and have 35k miles on it. It’s been great so far, but I have below problems makes me question about the quality of the material making this vehicle.

1- Window buttons on the both front door panels are peeling. I have high quality ceramic window tint and after market automatic headliner so vehicle hardly gets hot and sun gets in to cause this.

2- Carbon fiber wing is peeling. I already changed this under warranty once. They came to my house and out a new one.

3- Both front headlights are have a milky finish and they light up everywhere else but in front if the vehicle. Lol.

Do you guys know any of these issues covered under warranty and can I get another spoiler again?

They just made a flying car, hope they used a better material on that one.

they replaced my 2021 m3 sr+ with that part. but no mention of any suspension upgrades. i thought this pack was heavier and need upgraded suspension. am I missing something?

HIGH VOLTAGE
1.00
BATTERY , 1 PHASE, E3
40P , REAR WHEEL
DRIVE(2205165-00-B)

I bought one a week ago and, after some fiddling, got it working. However, it only runs for about five minutes before stopping completely, so I have to unplug it and plug it back in to repeat the cycle. It does work.... technically, but not for very long.

I’m also new to Tesla ownership, and it seemed strange that neither the Supercharger’s fan nor my car turned on during the 30 minutes or so I was there. The other vehicles around me were roaring in the Florida heat. Could it be because I had just cleaned about an inch-thick layer of leaves from the radiator?

for some extra context the ToolFox 3 is a device that tells a supercharger that my 150k mile salvage title car is legit

We bought a brand-new 2026 Model Y Performance about a month ago. Unfortunately, it's already been to the service center for a bunch of minor cosmetic issues, and Tesla gave us a Cybertruck as a loaner.

I love the cybertruck so much. It felt like a boat at first, but I've been beating the shit out of it and having some fun before I have to pick up the Y tomorrow morning. I love it so much and it's actually so futuristic compared to the Y performance.

The Model Y is only a month old and has just under 1,000 miles on it. I'm wondering how much we would loose by trading it in for a cybertruck.

Does crossing 1,000 miles make any significant difference in resale value? Also, what's the best way to go about this? Should we trade it directly to Tesla, or Carvana or sell privately?

I'm in NJ

Has anyone done something similar or have any advice on minimizing the loss?

Also btw I'm 16 but I know my parents regret getting the Y now that we've driven the cybertruck for a few hours. We had a 22 model y perf sold to carvana then we got the 26 y perf. Also have a 26 model 3 perf. Cybertruck is something i've never experienced before and I really love it. I've only been driving for a month but the Cybertruck is really amazing and I love the steer by wire.

Long story short, tesla misdiagnosed my car, then was nice and while they couldn't fix it, they also didn't charge me, however they returned it to me without working airbags (same way it came into them), saying i didnt authorize the work or something. I picked it up and brought it to a 3rd party guy who fixed it in under an hour.

I left a survey saying that while I thought the center and advisor was real nice, however the tech and the actual diagnosis was incorrect.

Got an angry phone call from the advisor a day later saying that the review really hurts them and its not right of me blah blah.

Aren't these reviews supposed to be anonymous? Regardless I stand by the survey, just seems odd.

2016 Model S 75D – sudden cascade of MIA alerts, 12V not supported, front motor disabled, limp mode

Recent work: The pyro fuse and the 12V battery were both replaced on 20 Sept 2026, about a month ago. No issues since then until today.

What happened: The car was parked. The moment I got in (not driving), it threw a big cascade of alerts all at the same second (15:47:42) and went into limp mode. Result:
Front motor disabled ("OK to drive")
Reduced power / acceleration and top speed limited
No regen, no traction control, no stability control, no AEB
Charge port disabled / "car cannot charge"

Key alerts (from service mode)
GTW_w405_12VNotSupported
GTW_w157_lowVoltageSupportFault
GTW_w017_accLoadShed / GTW_w018_hvacLoadShed
Lots of MIA alerts: GTW_w083_disMia, GTW_w021_thcMia, GTW_w019_bmsMia, GTW_w023_chgMia, GTW_w042_cpMia, PMS_w039_disMIA, PMS_w040_pmMIA, PMS_w042_gtwMIA, DI_w040_disMIA, EPAS2_d067_diMia
DI_w062_systemLimpMode, DIS_w126_limpMode, BMS_u008_limpMode, BMS_w094
DAS_w009_aebFault, DAS_w053_radcCommIssue, ESP_w002/w003/w007

My theory: It looks like the 12V supply dropped out (DC-DC not supporting 12V?) and everything else is knock-on faults. Since the 12V battery is new, I'm wondering about the DC-DC converter, or whether something wasn't reconnected/seated properly during the pyro fuse job. I don't see any contactor, isolation or pack fuse alerts.

Questions:
Has anyone seen this exact pattern, especially after a pyro fuse replacement?
Could a loose connector or ground from that job cause this a month later?
If it's the DC-DC, any idea of repair cost?

Screenshots attached. Thanks! (Sorry for some pics being in danish)

Does anyone know what this could possibly be , I’m very confused because I don’t see anything the car could be dragging

Question, should I get this repaired? This is a new MYP, I didn’t notice the issue upon delivery date. But I did notice it after a recent appointment with the collision center, which was about two+ weeks ago.

Just curious from tenured owners if I should worry about this.

At the left back of my car.

Happens almost every time I park in my own designated place at my underground parking lot. Any advice on what can cause this glitch?

My 3 year old Tesla Wall Connector suddently started doing this. It connects fine, my Tesla can see it’s connected, but won’t charge.
The electrician confirmed, the both power and the ground connections a ok.

Any suggestions/ideas ?

On October 2, Tesla announced upgrades to the model three performance. On October 5th I ordered based on those upgrades.

Tesla advisors cannot confirm that my order will have those upgrades.

I responded by quoting their own contract, which states that I have a right to know which options will be on the car that I ordered.

Can anyone help me here?

My order number is RN129727505 for VIN 5YJ3E1ET9VF241264. This translates to a 2027 model. I received this VIN today.

Almost all the major routes in my state are listed at 35 and are mostly 50 or 55 mph and this is extremely infuriating as you can imagine for using FSD

Step 1: check and see if you model y/3 has the hardware to do it. (Go to vehicle info screen and it will say PowerShare enabled) this is only available to premium model y/3 bought in last 6 months (or thereabouts)
Step1b: install latest Halloween update (or wait till available)
Step2: you also need a powerwall 3, and a gen 3 wall connecter installed on same WiFi network
Step 3: you must log into tesla one app and enable PowerShare for your wall connector (you’ll need you powerwall WiFi and password which is located underneath powerwall, if you didn’t save this from install you’ll need to remove cover which is probably more work than most want to do.
Step3b: enable mobile service and call tesla to remotely enable PowerShare
Note: wall connector must be on same panel that is backed up by powerwall 3.

Step 4: update tesla app and enable power share in app.

Step5: test by going off grid and getting powerwall down to 15% when that happen you will get 10kw of power from your tesla to house and battery.

I tested mine this morning and works perfectly.
Questions?

What a sweet little delight….. well this happened the other night.. everything was normal, came up to drive for a quick bite to eat and car felt weird. Stiff break, not being able to go in gear and throwing following codes on dash: Steering assist reduced ABS disabled Safety restrain system issue Car is not working, not running, not driving. When I get out to lock it, it only locks the doors and everything else including lights stay on. Air suspension not working, none of the good stuff. It happened out of no where.. I checked the 12V battery along with the fuses and all seems fine. Any luck from anyone? I greatly appreciate any tips. 2013 Model S p85+ with stinking 40k miles. How unreliable…. 😭😭

I have tesla from USA in EU. Everything works, updates premium ect. I ordered FSD via Tesla app, waited for update (approval), then update came and I got billed 99 EUR. I can see FSD in car settings, summon works ect. but FSD itself doesn't work because in autopilot setting after all standart FSD text it has one sentence- FSD (supervised) not supported in your region (see screnshot, its in Lithuanian, but all text is standart for FSD autopilot, just last sentence). FSD is supported here (Lithuania). Any way I can enable it? Maybe with some region settings in toolbox?

I have this outlet and I am purchasing a 2020 M3 soon, and I was wondering if this would work? Ive read online that I cannot surpass 16A and I would need an adapter from Tesla to be able to charge this.