I trimmed my beard today and drained water with hair as it was hard to collect. I made a huge mistake. Is there a way to fix it or do I need to call a plumber to remove my clogged beard hair. Please help, I know I messed up. :(

I am going to replace this manifold. Its 26 years old, and obviously leaking and about to be a disaster. I am debating with wether to go back with copper, or plastic this time. I would prefer crimp vs expansion rings. Our water has high TDS, about 800, and it is softened.

Thoughts?

In our basement we have an irrigation system that we’ve never used since moving in (I was told it was properly winterized when we moved).
My question is, does having all this make it any easier to install a toilet? Pictures are the best I could take with what info I thought was important lol.

There was a vanity in place here, and I'm swapping it with a pedestal.

Don't want to have the bowl against the wall, so the pedestal needs to be 3 inches to the right of the original set up.

How would you address this without moving the drainage pipe in the wall?

** UPDATE: INSTALLED AND PRETTY.**

I just went ahead with my original layout/plan and the bowl is just slightly away from the side wall with absolutely 0 plumbing exposed.

Wondering if having the hot water doing all these corners will create an issue?

Hi all! I’d like some help determining what the cause of a leaking pipe was in my house. I live on the 3rd floor of a condo building and am trying to see if I am the responsable party for paying for this fix (or the HOA).

Context:
The condo unit below me reported a large leak in the bathroom directly underneath mine this weekend. The community HOA maintenance team opened a hole in the lower unit wall and determined the leak came from a multi-joint pipe in the ceiling coming from my toilet. My toilet had a faulty fill valve and after flushing would continuously flow. This has been the case for about 3 months off and on - it would occasionally be turned off by manually poking the valve. No water leakage was spotted on the bathroom floor or anywhere else until this weekend. The home is about 50 years old am im not sure if or when the piping has been replaced.

Current situation: I have attached pictures of what the wall and pipes looks like. The 1st photo with the red circle drawn on shows where the leak originated in the ceiling of the bathroom. The 3rd photo shows the opening in the bathroom where the piping had to be replaced (white pipes are new). The last photos show the old broken replaced piping where you can see exactly where the gap appeared (yellow arrows).

My question: what actually caused this pipe to leak? Was it the toilet water running more often than usual leading to the pipe glue breaking down, or was it a lack of maintenance of the piping that would have broken anyways (irregardless of the water flow)?

These lines run vertically down the wall to a sink rough in. At the top shown here, the will exit the wall to connect to a hot water tank on the other side of the wall. This wall is 2x4 studs. Is it ok to bend the pex to come out of this wall while fitting within the wall or is that too sharp of a bend? Should I use fittings in the wall instead?

I feel dumb.

I can't for the life of me get the cold handle off. No indices, no screws, and no straight pull off. Please help.

Lived here a decade, always wondered why the hot/cold was reversed on this shower. After constant mold on baseboard, finally cut out the drywall. Found this nightmare.

Not a plumber can't afford one right now and don't solder.

For now, considering to either cut and leave 1" copper stub (between mixer and elbow, removing the elbow) and...

A) Push on a 1/2" SharkBite to PEX on top and bottom

or

B) Compression fitting on bottom to a 3/4" hose fitting on bottom and get longer hose)

Want to make sure that holds pressure until I can get a pro out here likely in the winter.

Thoughts??

I'm a renter and I pulled off this floor drain cap just out of curiosity, and I expected to see a downwards hole like other drains but there seems to be some kind of cap in the middle and it's covered in grime. I haven't tested if it works, in the picture may not be visible but it's not completely covered there seems to be space for water to drain down around that inner circle.

Does this kind of drain have a name? Also what's the best way to clean it? It's not really causing smells rn but if it remains dirty like this it surely will

I need to access my homes main water shutoff which is before the streets curb. Was buried under dirt and the bolt is frozen. Tried using street curb octagon key but not enough leverage to turn - even after spraying wd40. Is there a 1/2 drive socket i can biy and use with my rachet or something even better? Should I expect the same struggle when I attempt to shutoff the main valve inside. I bought a 5 foot long valve key for this task.

Thanks

Not sure what this is but it’s in our utility room downstairs right above our hot water heater. Is the blue residue an indicator of a problem?

This is in my recently purchased house, so a lot of unknowns. I was thinking about hanging a bathroom cabinet here, but I'm wondering what's in this wall so I don't damage anything. Doesn't look like pipes or any plumbing right? I mean it's above the bathtub faucet, nothing installed above it, and only attic above the bathroom. The other side of the wall is my bedroom wall, so again no reason for any plumbing.

We just had our upstairs bathtub and shower replaced including the plumbing, and now the downstairs toilet burps and bubbles when the upstairs toilet is flushed.

Did they mess something up? Or was this monstrosity of a drain and vent stack doomed from the beginning? The house is c.1960

I live in a place where water comes with a lot of dust / mud and water intake for my washing machine went horribly low and it was taking hours to fill.

My grandpa tried to open the hose on both sides ( tap and washing machine ). Now I cant really figure out how to attach it to that tap.

Tap is not threaded. I have no idea how it was attached. That white nut type thing with M2-2 written on it is some how attached to the tap as per my grandpa.

Problem is tap outlet hose is not fitting into the white nut. I am still wondering how this was attached beforehand

I am trying to get this plastic nut off so I can install a T and then a bidet but I have no room in between the wall and the toilet to fit my hand and get leverage to loosen it. Tried channel locks and that also doesn’t work. Should I just return the bidet? I’m worried about being able to tighten the T that came with the bidet enough to where it’s not leaking. I’m in an apartment so I can’t risk any leaks. Is there some sort of tool that would get this off? I’ve tried everything at this point this is super frustrating. Why do they make a toilet designed like this, it’s impossible to service if I ever needed a toilet water supply line.

Buddy of mine sent me his recent remodeled home, and this was the shower/tub spot (access panel). Now, I'm aware of how bad PB (polybutylene) piping is, and afaik it was discontinued or w/e, so...what is this grey pipe then? There are no numbers/markings (that we can get access to view)

So I'm finding it confusing that this would be PB considering a recent remodel then sold to my buddy. PB is listed as prohibited in my state. Unless this is cpvc but I'm unfamiliar with that. Another thing I'm confused with is, these look like plastic crimp rings, but I thought (and can really only find) metal crimp rings to be used with PB.

Plumber notched out a piece of my baseboard to feed the supply hose through and it looks atrocious.

Wanted to replace the baseboard and noticed the PEX is basically curved out from within the wall instead of using some sort of elbow.

Is that normal? It makes the metal cap put pressure against the hose when it’s pushed up snug against the wall.

I have 0 plumbing experience and would like to have this done correctly. All help is appreciated!

Buenas gente, les cuento la cagada que me mandé para saber si a alguien le ha pasado algo similar y si de verdad hay alguna chance de que safe o voy directo a cortar y rehacer.

Estaba armando una línea de agua potable con presión de red (alimenta baño, cocina, etc.). Pegué un tramo de PVC a una unión americana / con rosca. La dejé reposar unas 2 horas y, cuando fui a apretar la rosca para terminar de ajustar el circuito, le metí fuerza sin afirmarla bien y la unión que recién había pegado se rodó/giró un poco sobre sí misma. Claramente el pegamento todavía estaba medio blando por dentro y cedió.

No se salió del todo, pero se movió del ángulo donde había quedado fija.

Mi duda para los que tienen experiencia o les haya pasado:

• ¿Alguien ha dejado una unión así y le ha aguantado la presión de la red sin filtrar?

• ¿O el hecho de haber roto la fusión química cuando ya estaba a medio curar significa filtración/fuga garantizada apenas abra la llave de paso?

Sé que la respuesta de manual de gasfitería probablemente sea "corta el tubo y hazlo de nuevo", pero quería saber opiniones reales antes de perder el material y tener que rehacer todo el tramo. Los leo.

I have a pressure regulator valve on my main line due to high water pressure. I’m moving to tankless water heater so will I need a thermal expansion tank?

Is this rough in hole for my toilet too large for a flange? If, so what are my options to decrease the size? Also, this is a 4.5” cast iron drain. What sort of flange should I be using?

Looking for some help on picking the right toilet flange replacement kit. I noticed the other day my toilet was rocking and saw that one of the bolts holding the toilet was no longer holding on to the floor. I took the toilet out and saw the flange completely corroded. I cleaned up all the old wax and noticed that the pipe sits below the flange level and the floor. When I looked at the rusted flange and wax. I see that the wax is on the top and the bottom of the flange. This is confusing because most of the replacement kits I see has the wax sit on top of the flange only. Did the previous owner put a piece of wax above the pipe, then put the flange on top of that and then put another wax ring on the top of the flange?

If anyone has a good recommendation on the right replacement I'd greatly appreciate it.

Here are some pictures if that helps.