r/MTB • u/itskohler • May 18 '25
We’re hitting that time of year where interest in mountain biking is picking up. We have been getting quite a lot of picture posts of Facebook marketplace ads and vendor website screenshots, which are against the sub rules. As a reminder for all picture and videos, please follow rule 3:
Photos should be of people riding mountain bikes.
Posts & Comments
Photo and video submissions to /r/mtb should be of people riding mountain bikes. All other photos or videos should either be submitted as text posts with links to your images in the post body, or in the Weekly Gear Gallery thread, posted every Friday by automod.
r/MTB • u/[deleted] • Oct 19 '24
Hey all, 219MSP here, and I'm attempting to start maintaining and updating my buying guide and FAQ posts again. I started getting into cycling about 10 years ago and was so lost. Over the last decade I've spent a lot of time learning about the industry and what makes a good bike. Every day I see dozens of posts asking what bike I should get, or what is a good value bike. I hope this guide can be used as a tool on this forum and others to help them find a bike they will be happy with for a long time. This is a living document. I will attempt to update it on a semi-regular basis and I'm always open to new bike recommendations.
In addition to this guide, I have created two FAQ's as well that answer common mountain bike questions.
u/midwestmountainbike also has some great guides on buying a first bike, what to look for in a used bike, as well as a selection of his own suggestions of good value bikes at this page.
When looking for a starter bike there are a few things I'd recommend that will get you onto a solid and safe bike that should be built to last and be worth upgrading as you see fit. Before we get started on talking bikes and prices, always make sure you're getting a bike that fits you. If the bike doesn't fit, it doesn't matter how good of a deal it is. Also, this guide is assuming you are intending on riding on actual mountain bike single track, not just smooth dirt paths and gravel. If that is all you are hoping for and don't plan on advancing beyond, any entry-level mountain bike from a major brand like a Trek Marlin 5 will do just fine, but if you are hoping to ride anything above green-rated singletrack, I'd suggest a more capable bike.
First, some rough price guidelines. As low as $500 should get you into a used but solid entry-level hardtail and about $900+ can get you a used but decent full suspension. In regard to new, you can double those prices. A new solid entry-level hardtail will be at likely be $900 and around $1800 for a decent full suspension bike.
Regarding used bikes, there are lots of places to look. Used bikes offer you a ton of value and is the best way to get the most for your money. You can get 2-year-old $4000 bikes for a huge discount. The most common places are Facebook Marketplace, eBay, Pinkbike, etc. You also can sometimes find great deals at local bike shops selling demo models (which often come with warranties) and rental fleets. Rental bikes are usually good options. They typically are well maintained and only have a season or two on them before they replace them with something newer. If you are new to the biking world and looking at used bikes, I'd recommend bringing along a friend who knows bikes or at least ask for advice on here. Lastly, if meeting someone, always be smart. I would recommend meeting at police station and bringing a friend. Now, let's get into the bikes.
Last but not least, people here are often willing to help narrow it down. Feel free to post on here a "which bike post" but follow the guidelines of this sub listed below.
In addition to that, if you are listing multiple bikes, please use 99Spokes.com to create a side by side comparison. Providing this side by side comparison will make other members of the sub much quicker to help.
These are the specs I’d look for at minimum as of 2024.
Air fork: The cheapest fork I'd safely recommend is something like the SR Suntour XCR Air fork. Anything less than that from SR Suntour or RST is pretty much a pogo stick with poor damping and limited adjustability. The low-end RockShox coils aren’t terrible, but I'd shoot for air. Forks can be upgraded down the road but are often the single most expensive component on the bike.
1x Clutched Drivetrain: In the last 10 years there has been a shift to 1x drivetrains across the board. At this point, any slightly trail-worthy bike will have this type of drivetrain from the factory. To clarify what this means to those new or not familiar, 1x is when there is only 1 chainring/cog attached to the crankset instead of the more traditional 2 or 3. Bikes used to need multiple chainrings up front to allow for both high speed gears and low speed climbing gears. Now, with 1x drivetrains, the difference is made up by having a very large rear cassette. Most cassettes that come on mountain bikes now have a small cog of 10 or 11, and go all the way up to 52t on the large cog. This gives you the same amount of range as those old 3x8 bikes, but with less overlap and far more simplicity. Beyond simplicity, the advantages are less weight, less cables/derailleurs, less to think about when riding, and less chain drops etc. In addition to the larger cassette, 1x drivetrains feature a narrow-wide chainring (alternating size teeth to match the chain) which helps with chain retention and a clutched rear derailleur. The clutched rear derailleur provides extra tension on the chain to reduce chain slap and the odds of dropping a chain. For the most part, dropping a chain or it falling off the chainring while riding are a thing of the past.
Hydraulic brakes This one is pretty simple, Hydraulic brakes use fluid to move pistons and squeeze down on the brake rotor to stop the bike as opposed to mechanical disc brakes that use a cable to actuate the pistons. This typically results in stronger braking, better modulation/control/and are self-adjusting. The only time I'd suggest mechanical brakes is for a bike packing/touring bike as they are easier to fix trailside. SRAM, Shimano, and Tetkro, all offer solid entry-level brakes.
The following aren’t as important but will help future proof the bike and make it a frame worth upgrading. If you get a bike with all these things, it's going to be rock solid for a longtime
Tapered steerer tube: Most modern forks use a tapered steerer. If you get a bike with a lower-end fork/frame and want to upgrade down the road, it's easier if your bike has this. At this point this is pretty common in all but the cheapest of bikes.
Thru-Axle wheels and Boost Spacing: In theory, both of these things offer higher levels of stiffness, but in reality, the biggest reason to make sure you have them is future upgradeability. Thru-axles also keep your wheels always aligned perfectly so you don't get as much disc brake rub as you would with Quick-Release axles.
Tubeless Compatible Wheels: Going Tubeless is one of the most cost effective upgrades you can perform on a bike that will make the biggest difference. Some of the benefits of going tubeless include shedding weight, tires that are less likely to have flats, and the ability to run lower tire pressures which allows you to have more grip and better ride properties. If you ride on a regular basis, you should go tubeless. They may require a little more maintenance and can be a pain to mount/install, but the positives drastically outweigh the negatives.
Dropper Post at this point is a necessity in my opinion but fortunately it can be added to nearly any frame, so I wouldn't make it a requirement on a bike as you can easily add it yourself. Dropper posts can be bought brand new for as low as $150. There are lots of options, but in my opinion OneUp, PNW, and some smaller brands like TransX and KS offer the best values.
UDH/Universal Derailleur Hangar Compatible Frame. This one is purely convenience and future compatibility benefit, not really a performance upgrade. (Transmission excluded, more on that later) For those that don't know, all modern bikes feature a derailleur hangar. This is a sacrificial component on your bike that acts as an interface between your frame and your derailleur. If the derailleur takes a hit, the hangar is allowed to bend/break. The idea is if a softer part is allowed to bend or break first, it won't damage the frame and less likely to damage the derailleur. These hangars are usually $10-$20 bucks. Way better than a frame or derailleur in terms of repair cost. The problem however is that up until 2019 there was no agreed upon standard. Every bike had its own unique hangar for the and if you broke one you usually had to resort to ordering one online and waiting for it to come. In 2019 SRAM changed all that by introducing an open and shared design called the UDH. It was well thought out and designed and SRAM worked with most manufactures to get them to implement this on their bikes. At this point almost any high end bike is coming with this as standard. Because of that, most bike shops are going to carry this hanger, so you aren't forced into special ordering something. Also, SRAM was playing some 4-D chess with this UDH. If a bike has a UDH compatible frame, it also means it is compatible with SRAM new drivetrains called Transmission, which actually bypasses a derailleur hangar all together and mounts directly to the frame giving an extremely strong mounting point and extremely high precision shifting.
Here are some solid entry-level bikes. Not all of them check off all my recommendations, but they all are solid for the price. I don't have first hand experience with all of them, but most bikes and options from legitimate bike brands are pretty solid.
Full Suspension (Cheapest ones that are still solid bikes IMO)
Giant Stance (29er or 27.5) $1400+ - Check's off most boxes, but has a quick release rear axle which is not ideal.
Marin Rift Zone 29 $1700+ - Solid Frame, lower end, but solid components. Main downside is the lack of a dropper post.
Polygon Siskiu T7 27.5 or 29 depending on frame size $2000 - This bike is lacking nothing and check's off all my recommendations. The T8 is a solid upgrade as well.
Giant Trance 2 29 $2000 - In my opinion, the best cheap bike at the moment. Check's off every box and get's you local bike shop support and a good warranty. The Trance X is an equally equipped bike with a little more travel if that's what you are looking for.
Canyon Neuron $2300 - Solid bike trail bike. Check's off most boxes, but has a weak drivetrain with the SRAM SX groupset.
Commencal Meta TR $1900 - Great frame, but has SX Groupset and is lacking Dropper post. Sale Price
Specialized Status 140 $2250 - Hard hitting trail/enduro bike. Very high end components and lacking nothing. Sale Price
Norco Fluid FS A4 $1900 - Pinkbike Value Bike of the Year in 2023. Missing nothing.
Rocky Mountain Element A10 Shimano $2000 Another solid bike that checks all the boxes. Sale Price
YT Jeffsy $2250 Solid Trail Bike that had everything you'd need. Sale Price
YT Capra $2400 Probably one of the best budget enduro bikes. Sale Price
YT Izzo $2300 Cheapest Carbon Full suspension bike you can get. Only downside is the SX Drivetrain. Sale Price
GT Sensor Sport $1725 Appears to check all the boxes.
GT Zaskar FS Comp $1800 Another solid option that checks all the boxes.
Salsa Blackthorn Deore $2200 Sale Price.
Go-Outdoors UK Calibre Bossnut £1500 Super good deal, but I believe only available in the UK
Hard Tail (Cheapest ones that are still solid bikes IMO)
Polygon Xtrada 7 $1100 - Solid bike, boost frame with air fork, but lacking a dropper post.
Norco Fluid HT 2 $900 - Solid hardtail, great drivetrain, dropper post, but has a lower end fork.
Salsa Rangefinder Deore 11 $1200 - Air Fork, Solid Drivetrain, Dropper Post. Unfortuantely no rear thru-axle
Trek Roscoe 6+ $1200 This bike check's all the boxes, air fork, good drivetrain, boost spacing, dropper post. The Roscoe lineup as a whole is a good value.
Specialized Fuse 27.5 $950 - Check's all the boxes.
Marin San Quentin 29 $1400 Check's all the boxes in terms of components.
These are not all the options, but they are some better and more common budget/value bikes. This list is always changing, I try my best to update it, but it's difficult to keep up.
Last but not least make sure you save some of your budget for additional accessories that you will need
Helmet
Tire Pump (Most high-end bikes use a Presta valve, make sure the pump is compatible)
Hydration (Either bottle cage and bottle or hydration pack of some sort.)
Multi-tool with a chain breaker and basic tools.
Tire irons/levers and spare tubes (and the knowledge of how to change both).
Bike cleaning supplies, chain lube, etc. Taking care of an MTB can be a lot of work, but it will save you in the long run if you properly maintain your ride.
Quick-link to repair a broken chain.
Spare Derailleur Hangar.
Along with those required things, here are some things I'd highly recommend.
MTB Platform shoes (or you can opt to go clipless).
Tubeless tire kit. Most bikes come “tubeless ready” but don't come with them setup typically.
Starter tool kit with the basic tools.
Suspension pump assuming you have air suspension.
Work stand
Torque Wrench, especially with carbon parts
Padded shorts or liner to wear under regular shorts.
Gloves, Kneepads,Eye Protection.
Extra Ways to Save Money!
Check Activejunky.com which is a rebate site can get you decent savings on a lot of bike websites.
r/MTB • u/onecutmedia • 1h ago
This is the Gangler on Mt Fromme. If you know this thing you know how intimidating it is.
I have tried ride it a few times in the past years but I always thought I would go OTB.
11 years later I just went a rode it. It’s actually not that difficult but very committing
The getting very rotten log ride before it is more scary now.
Hi all,
I have a 2018 Fox 36 factory (with FIT HSC/LSC) that came with a bike I bought used 2 years ago and and I kept using heavily.
It still works, and I semi-regularly service the lowers and seals, but it really needs a complete overhaul. I'm talking like stripping down the cartridge and calibrating the bushings.
The thing is... is it worth it? Or should I just replace the fork? The service will probably cost a couple hundred €, and I'm not even sure that it would feel as good as my newer and unused '22 Fox 36 perf elite, which I'm loving.
r/MTB • u/Heemanhey • 1h ago
Hi guys, hope someone can help
Should the tokens go around the thicker black shaft in the cup, or in front of it?
I get one one over the thicker black shaft but feels it's to tight. And I don't get an other one in there, 3 no way.
its an 210x55 that should take 3 tokens.
I tried them i front of the thicker black shaft but couldnt close the shock.
Anyone familiar with this shock. In the Rockshox manual I can't find it for this type.
Manual I think mine is a little different?
RockShox Super Deluxe Ultimate Demper | RC2T | Linear XL;
r/MTB • u/Darkelium_ • 17m ago
I bought a GW Falcon 29 because it was the only mountain bike that fit my budget. I’m new to MTB, and I’d like to get into trail riding, improve my skills, and eventually try some small jumps and more technical terrain.
However, I’ve heard that this bike may not handle hard impacts or bigger jumps very well, so I’m not sure how far I can push it safely.
Would it be fine for a beginner to learn MTB on this bike if I start gradually? What parts should I keep an eye on, and are there any upgrades worth making first?
My budget is pretty limited, so I’d rather improve the bike where it actually matters instead of wasting money on unnecessary upgrades.
Any honest advice or experience with this bike would be appreciated!
r/MTB • u/Jamcw824 • 48m ago
Thanks in advance for helping a mom out. My son has a Marin Zone Rift 1 (2025) and wants to upgrade parts to make it his own. He's looking to upgrade the fork first. (Eventually he'll upgrade to an enduro but it's not in the near future.) Rock Shock? Fox? Other parts need to be changed to make these work with the Marin or can you just swap out the fork (obviously confirming right size). Thanks!
r/MTB • u/AWESOMENAR • 13h ago
Anybody out there riding the new Tallboy on the east coast? Tell me what you think!
I’m a northwest NJ rider, lots of slow tech rocks, but we’ve got some more modern stuff too. I ride hard and I ride a lot. Currently on a ‘25 Ibis Ripmo AF UDH V1. It’s a great bike, but I feel like it’s the master of none. Interested in selling the Ripmo and getting a shorter travel, lighter, more responsive, trail bike plus dumping some money into a beefy alloy enduro machine for smashing Mountain Creek and the rest of our nasty east coast jank.
The new Tallboy seems like the perfect balance of efficiency, fun, and rowdiness for someone like me who picks too many stupid lines for an XCish 120/130 and doesn’t feel the need for the 150/160 do-it-all that’s probably a little sluggish for our low angle rocks.
Edit: I should note that I am very specifically not interested in the new Ripley or any Pivot. Great bikes, no doubt, but superboost can suck it, and the new Ripley in carbon is heavier than my old Ripmo AF and feels worse to ride.
r/MTB • u/mayjamest • 15h ago
Going to put some new rubber on my Ragley Big Wig Race.
My primary gripe with the current setup is rolling resistance. Running 29x2.4 DHRII in the rear with a 29x2.4 Assegai in the front. Grip is excellent, never slip out, but looking for something that is quicker in the climbs and flats.
Terrain is going to be primarily socal dry dirt/ washout dust / rocks. I won't be seeing much wet/mud. Tires need to be more on the trail/enduro side of things compared to lighter duty XC.
Looking to stick with Maxxis based on all my previous years of experience with them vs other brands. Taking a hard look at the Forekaster as a rear option for the rolling speed.
What are your 2026 Maxxis front/rear combo suggestions for trail oriented hardtails.
r/MTB • u/kahna_v_povidlech • 3h ago
Hi I am thinking about buying this bike. I mostky ride enduro and bikeparks my budget is around 1300 euros whitout shipping if I would buy it from diferent country. I ride in prague and around it. I am an advanced beginner
r/MTB • u/Galaridor1 • 7h ago
Found this shop called bikable.com and their prices are way lower than everywhere else I checked. Like suspiciously low. Looks like a Danish company and the site seems fine, but that doesn’t mean much.
Has anyone actually bought from them? Did your stuff show up and was it legit? And does anyone know why they’re so cheap?
Thinking of ordering some parts but don’t want to get burned.
r/MTB • u/Fastactin • 1d ago
Upcoming guided MTB trip over Thanksgiving with Oaxaca Bike Expeditions. 4 days of shuttle riding. For those that have ridden there, I have a question about which bike to take.
My riding experience/level: I live in SLC, Utah and have been riding here for 13 years. Technical downhill is my preferred, I'm not much for jumping or bike parks. Whole Enchilada, the Crest, Park City skidders etc.
My bikes:
2026 Spot Diggity 125/140. This bike absolutely RIPS on the down. It's grounded and playful. (28lbs)
2024 Transition Spire 170/170. Burly enduro rig that eats up any trail. Blows through chunk, but not particularly playful or nimble. Handles big drops without even blinking. (33ish-lbs)
If I choose the Diggity, I will travel with it. If I choose the Spire they have a rental Spire there in Oaxaca for $300 (total cost). My Spire is too heavy for the travel limit. I traveled with the Spot to Switzerland this past summer without issue, so I'm comfortable with that aspect. The cost for bringing my own bike is a bit cheaper than the rental.
Which bike is best for the trails down there?
Looking for some general advice on what kind of bike to get next.
Me: 6'0", 160 lb, 80 cm saddle height. Strong descender, decent climber who goes hard on long climbs.
Riding: Reno and Tahoe. Mostly big alpine days with long sustained climbs and fast technical descents (30+ miles, 5k+ vert). One trip a year (Bellingham, Moab, Sedona, Downieville...). I race the Downieville All-Mountain sometimes, but that’s not the priority.
Current bike: 2018 Tallboy V3, Large. It’s set up with a 130 fork, a -1.5° angleset, and volume spacers front and rear. It descends quite well. I bottom it out on most rides but its never harsh. What I do notice is the slack seated position on climbs.
What I’m trying to figure out:
I want one bike that climbs efficiently all day but still lets me ride hard on the way down. I don’t want to buy more bike than I need for the hardest 10% of my riding.
Appreciate any real-world experience.
r/MTB • u/Ungestuem • 4h ago
So my Options are:
Giant REIGN E+ 3 · 2022
1899€
Or
Giant TRANCE X E+ 2 750 · 2022
2199€
The Bike is mostly for my wife and she just wants to Ride along in her own pace.
I 100% enjoy going down more the pedaling Up. I Pedal uphill only to Ride down again.
But I know, If my wife does now come with me, I will probably use her Bike to get more Runs in. So I consider that too.
As far as I know the raign is the better Bike for going down, but the Trance has the overall better parts, brakes etc.
I think the question is, how much Downhill can the Trance handle?
How big can the drops get before I brake the Bike.
r/MTB • u/Mysterious-Ask2704 • 22h ago
Looking to figure out where I am going wrong when riding bike park jumps. I've been riding jumps most of my life with bmx, DJ's, and now I'm eating it bad with full suspension bikes. Currently riding a Pivot Mach 6.
Issue is that I've been going way deep in the bike park, and getting bucked badly on the more mellow but higher speed jumps. My regular jump spot is all roughly 50-60 degree lips that are 5' to 7' tall with 8'-12' gaps. Landings are equally steep, so nosing in after pulling back off the lip is the norm. Trail speed there is roughly 30km/h, maximum. I feel like I'm a savvy dirt jumper as well after this long, even with the full suspension bike. I'm comfortable with 360's, tailwhips. and trick shenanigans, but my gosh have I been eating it regularly in actual bike parks where the trail speeds are closer to 50km/h, and the tables are 20'-40' gaps. I'm just trying to survive out there, every time.
Essentially trying to understand why the more mellow but higher speed jumps are bucking me, and why I'm going so much deeper (10-15') than my pals when I'm being towed. I've broken my ribs a few times now in the last few years as a result of this, so I'd love to figure this out asap. Healing from this bs at 36 takes longer than I want to wait.
For reference, I'm 5'9",230lbs, riding a size small. Front shocks are a Fox38 @ 150PSI - full tokens. Rear Shox is a Fox X2 at 300psi, full tokens. Rebound is two clicks from lowest setting on both. Compression is dialled back to around 1-3 clicks from lowest as well. Tire pressures are 40+PSI.
Riding pals say they think I'm getting bucked because I am pushing too hard with my legs, which is consistent with trying to boost on DJ's I think, and is where my muscle memory is at. Distance wise, they are saying it's due to the high pressures, which I understand, and makes sense. Issue I have with lower pressures is that I feel like I get bucked much more often. Figured I'd ask here though as there's often some great advice here.
r/MTB • u/keithcody • 1d ago
Coming on the heels of Cannondales OG headquarters being shut down and their operations being moved out west to Santa Cruz and Cervelo
https://www.julianabicycles.com/
It’s always been more about the rider on the bike than the name on the downtube. Juliana’s goal was to create a space for women to be seen, heard, and recognized. We don’t think it’s absolutely mission accomplished, but we believe that now is the time to bring our sister brand into the same tent, and solidify that space for the future. So while Juliana branded bikes will no longer be produced, this next chapter gives us an even bigger stage to celebrate and support women and femme riders everywhere.
I bought a spring for my older 222x70mm shock so reasonably i bought a 67.5-75mm spring but the spring is too long, but ai says it would work if i compress the spring and run it but i kind of want to hear other peoples thoughts about running a spring with a maxed out collar before i go and do it, the spring doesnt have to be compressed a massive amount it just has to go like 4mm before i would be able to put the end piece on
r/MTB • u/Ok_Analysis_3222 • 14h ago
I'm looking into buying my first full suspension bike next spring and I'm trying to decide between a Norco fluid and a Kona process 153. Where I live there aren't mountains but there are DH trails in valleys that would warrant both of these bikes. The city I live in has a river valley trail with lots of punchy climbs and are a bit more xc oriented but also sections of trails with jumps, drops, roots. I have family members that live in BC so I'll be out there every few years or so. The fluid would probably be perfect for the terrain that I live in but also am sort of worried that I would be under-biked and wish I would have went with the kona process when doing more dh oriented stuff in my area and in BC. What do you folks think?
r/MTB • u/AutoModerator • 1d ago
Want to show off on NBD or new helmet day or new whatever day or just have general gear questions? Post in here. (Mod Note: NBD posts on their own that violate Rule #3 will continue to be removed.)
r/MTB • u/Full_send_0 • 16h ago
So, I am deciding which bike to buy between the below options. For background, this is my 3rd year mountain biking. Since starting, I've been on a Liv Intrigue 29 2 (140/125 travel). I've now outgrown this bike and I want something with more travel and higher quality suspension.
I live in Utah, enjoy riding a lot of chunky tech and also spend about 50% of my time in bike parks. I am a 5ft 4.5 in, 120lb woman. I want a "do it all" bike. (I know, 2 bikes would be ideal, but that's not feasible).
The bikes I am considering are below (all mullets):
Test rides around the parking lot - The Bronson feels the best for me, but parking lot tests can really only tell so much, and it's the most expensive option, so I'm not sure if it's worth it.
Give me your opinions, for the prices above, given the kind of riding I enjoy, what is the best deal?
Comparison of the 3 bikes below:
r/MTB • u/-MIKE-AND-IKE- • 16h ago
It’s a Shimano mt200 Hydraulic Disc Brake - RIGHT lever - REAR ONLY Brake with a 1450mm length line
https://rideoutsupply.com/collections/parts/products/shimano-mt200-hydraulic-disc-brake-rear-only