My car wont pass smog and im 90% sure its my improperly tuned ecu. I dont know how else to go about it. The car is running super rich and j dont wanna dump more money than i have too to get this thing registered. It is a link g4x

Hey guys, I've recently (Jun 26) got my first project car, a 1989 AW11 with the intention of doing a 1MZ swap, along with the woodsport wide arch kit, and other supporting mods. I was just wondering if there are any other AW11 owners in the vicinity, not for any particular reason other than curiosity, though I would love to hear stories of builds/ ownership.

I would also love to hear from people who have done a 1mz swap in an AW11 in general, as I'm still open to options, and wouldn't be entirely opposed to other NA swaps, besides the 2GR as that's a little outside my budget.

I thought my new sw 20 rubber mirror gaskets things are a flex.

But when I saw this price on ebay for the moldings.. I think i should keep my new set on the shelf where they were the last 15 years 😂

I put this in the 2gr group on Facebook but posting here as well. 2gr swapped 95 mr2. Been swapped for a year by TCS. Car has been great. No cooling issues at all. Recently, I noticed a coolant leak at base of water neck when I had the car out on short drives in high ambient temps. Nothing major, just little leaks.

Today, had the car out. Ambient temps in the low 60s. Car was driven only 4 miles nice and easy. Pulled into the neighborhood and noticed car was running warmer than normal. As I pulled into house, it spiked even more.

Put a data logger on the car and temp was 235. No idea where this came from as car has been driven in hot temps w/o issue. This was a short drive home. Makes me wonder if I have air in the system or a stuck thermostat? Coolant hoses are all new, water pump all new.

Any thoughts or what I should troubleshoot first?

In the last 2 posts I made, I've written about the issues I've been having getting my MR2 to start. It ran well for one day, and then it wouldn't start the next day. No crank. It's written about in more detail in the previous posts, but I've tried some new things and am still out of luck.

-I replaced the starter. The old one bench tested fine, but I had the starter out so might as well replace it before it kicks the bucket.
-I cleaned and tested every ground I could find. They all tested well with a good multimeter.
-I hotwired the clutch safety switch.

Still no crank. However, trying to start it now, I'm wondering if I've correctly narrowed it down to two things: a vacuum leak, or the starter slipping on the clutch/whatever the gear connects to in order to start the car. Here's a video from the engine bay of trying to start it (it's attached to the post).

The reason I kept moving the phone obnoxiously close to the throttle body is because I started to hear a hissing sound from that area whenever it goes from ON to START. I hadn't heard that before at all--it's a new sound that didn't happen before I replaced the starter. Is it a vacuum leak? Also, I only hear a click noise when the key goes from START to ON.

I also read that the fact that there isn't any noise happening when key goes to START could point to the starter not engaging with anything, so it could be an issue with the gear it connects to.

Please let me know what yall think. Thanks!

Exhaust Leak Help?

Hi,

So I have an exhaust leak and the sound gets a bit nasty around 1.8k revs but after that sounds smooth, the leak is at the flange between the backbox and mid pipe. It started leaking only after I installed my malain downpipe sports cat, I brought it used from someone who was using it for a bumper exit setup. Anyways my backbox alignment is now way off I've had to use these adjustable hangers to compensate for the mis alignment, I've also got a tte Remus backbox and a toyosport manifold that I installed before the mid pipe and ran it for months no issue but after this mid pipe installation its all went bad. There's an obvious gap at the flange but I don't know why it's misaligned, is there a chance the previous owner modified it to fit his bumper exit? He's telling me a shop did all the work for him so he doesn't know but it doesn't look obviously modified and looks the same side by side to my stock one, I've fitted the stock downpipe back on and it all comes together nicely. So I'm asking do I bin this downpipe and blame that for the misalignment or am I just being silly and it's something else. Also the downpipe hanger doesn't come close to the cars mounting point, I'm sick of buying new gaskets and working on this to make it work, has anyone else had the same issue? From the photos I've tried to use exhaust paste to cover up the leak and ignore the bigger issue but it just blew it wide open, it's not a massive issue for me right now I used the stock downpipe for my MOT (emissions) it's just the sound is just a bit annoying because the car sounds the best at around 2k revs.

There’s no better way to do a scenic drive than in a fun car with the roof off.

17x8.5 +20 with 215/45 and 245/40 (20mm spacer and ext studs rear.

Like the title says I’m looking for a brighter headlight and curious to what you guys like?

There’s a stock 1991 turbo for sale near me for about $14k. No records of water pump or timing belt though, would lack of maintenance records be a big red flag on these? Any other specifics to look out for?

I would like to change my exhaust from a single exit HKS Hi-power to Berk without modifying the down pipe, but I am concerned I will need to pay for more dyno time plus a tune. I have an ATS built 2.3L 5SGTE stroker with the ATS (precision) 5858 turbo, custom tubular headers, 3in downpipe to HKS Hi-power single exit. It is pretty loud and I prefer the look of the dual exit with the big cans visible from the back. However, I am worried that the Berk will not flow as fast as the single exit. In my mind, this could reduce spooling at a given RPM, leading to running rich unless I adjust the tune. ECUMaster ecu running a flexfuel tune from ATS.

Finally got around to editing the dashcam footage I took while driving the milk road in Kumamoto Japan this past summer. My buddy and I were yapping all video otherwise I’d have kept the original audio. Highly recommend this drive if you ever find yourself in Japan, the payoff is unreal. (Sped up 4x)

Car: 1994 Toyota MR2 SW20 3S-GTE

It’s that time again!!! The leaves are starting to fall which means Fall Foliage Cruise 2026 is set to happen on October 18th. This event we meet in Pickerington Ohio at the central high school at noon at the corner of hill road and opportunity way. We will have a little meet and greet then head out by 1.

I’ve got walkie-talkies again this year so we can communicate when there’s no reception. I have a route from prior year but open to new routes as well. Do y’all want to stop for lunch or just drive like we normally do? I’m also open to food and drinks at my house after like we have done before.

For those who have not done this before with us, it is a cruise through beautiful Hocking Hills. We lineup fastest group in the front and slowest group in the rear. It’s not a race but we do like to hit the twistes fast tail of the dragon style.

I’m stoked to see y’all! Please comment here if you are able to make it.

This event is also in the Ohio MR2 Facebook page.

Im going to be rebuilding my 89 mr2 SC and want to replace the pistons while im at it, however the 8:0:1 pistons seem to be near unobtanium, im wondering if swapping in the later 8:9:1 pistons from the 4agze corolla might work as theyre cheaper and easier to find, this is my first rebuild so im trying to learn as much as I can, if I did swap the pistons what other supporting mods would I have to do, or will the ecu run them happily? Thanks!

I bought one locally and it's bad. Also it's the wrong colours. I'm keen to get it right this time and spend proper money to get it perfect.

Mine is super red, 87.

After a long fight with paperwork and testing—and going into it with zero prior experience—I can now legally drive my MR2 GTS in Switzerland. Now that this is completed along with the work on the suspension and wheels, the next focus will be the body, which still needs some paint improvement. Maybe also adding GReddy side skirts and an Aeroware lip.

Im happy the Spyder is getting some recognition lately but really? $15K? More than a Porsche from the same year? Slow it down guys.

Edit: upon further review, the Spyder is a rare JDM import with a coveted color-matched hard-top.
Buuuut…
The Boxster is super clean and has been very well maintained according to the FB post. The Boxster’s photos are also very impressive.