Mostly I’m confused about how the skirt is supposed to lay. Perhaps it needs a bustle underneath it? Perhaps the gathering is the bustle? To be there as an internal layer?
You can clearly see that there’s an internal layer that must be fixed and fastened and an external layer that must be fixed and fastened. When on the dress form that exterior layer lays somewhat asymmetrical.
Any help from other restorers would be greatly appreciated.

Still roughly the heat of a dying star under there 💫☄️

I am ashamed to say that some of these are things I hadn’t thought of.

Just a casual modern fit underneath, but the frock coat is cut to 1830s proportions. Haven't finished my autumn weight version yet, so this was a bit cold but sufficed

This dresses are the serrano attire from the province of Ávila.

After about 70 hours (not including the corset and underpinning I made to go with it) I’ve officially completed my whole set of day and evening bodice, skirt, overskirt and matching bonnet with evening shoes 😮‍💨 the bonnet alone took me 10 hours and it’s all hand sewn 🥲 obviously I didn’t make the shoes from scratch, I attached the ribbons though! I’m really happy with how it all turned out and now I’m onto my late 14th century sleeping beauty inspired look! (After a few weeks of rest 😂)

Quick not for anyone who it may help. Hessian buckram is amazing for shape and firmness but it’s AWFUL to sew and your hands will hurt for a well afterwards

I’m doing late 15th century, but I’m sure 16th-18th advice would help too.

How do I get my bust to stay up? I’m determined for my bodice to have a straight CF. I started with the Eleonora of Toledo bodice and added ~4in to the bust at the side seam to get myself into it. First mockup was front opening, made in 2 layers of upholstery canvas. I pinched in the underbust as tightly as I could and raised the straps back up to the original tiny length after experimenting with loosening them. Both of these helped, but my bust just keeps moving around. Second mockup is 1 layer of stiffer canvas, with a back opening. The “stomacher” style line has no shaping. The back opening also helped without fully solving the problem. I scoop my bust, and it stays up as long as I puff my ribs out, then slowly falls down (chafing!!).

So… do I just keep tightening the underbust? Do I put in some cookies? I tried bunching up some fabric into temporary cookies on mockup 2 with little success. Would a stiffer fabric help? I feel like that would just start gaping. Do I move forwards in time and try a Dorothea bodies-style bone pattern? I really would rather not bone as there is no precedent in the extant examples.

For reference my bust is 38” and underbust is 32”.

I’m creating 1530s Franco-Flemish garb similar to the these two portraits. My goal is make something historically accurate to wear to renaissance festivals because I’ve loved historical fashion for so long but mostly worn fantasy outfits to renfairs so far.

I’m wondering where to get shoes to match this look. However, becuase I’m wearing his to a renfair, comfort is vital for footwear. I’d rather sacrifice some historical accuracy to ensure my shoes are comfortable to walking all day and stay durable for many wears. I’ve had bad experiences ordering shoes online and them being uncomfortable with no way to return them (mostly I was looking at secondhand online shops). I’d prefer to keep a budget of $100 max.

From what I can tell (I’ve had a harder time finding examples for shoes in the era than for medieval for some reason), a lot of shoes from this period seem to be kind of a square toe Mary Jane. If I wanted a budget option, how horrendous would it be to just get a pair of low heel or flat Mary Jane’s so I could wear them to work as well? Like I said I’m more lenient on accuracy for the shoes than the rest of the outfit.

Thank in advance for any suggestions!

Finally jumping off the deep end into my 1850s/1860s study. Is this a practical era for me to begin? Absolutely not. Did I start this project solely to have something to whitework embroider? Yes. Did it take MUCH longer than anticipated? Also yes. But that is okay. :)

🪡= hand sewn

Skills learned!:
• Drawing thread
• Tucks
• 🪡 Flat felling ( hand felling )
• 🪡 whip stitch gathers to waistband
• making a waistband from scratch!
• 🪡 buttonhole stitch
• The joys of ironing

I'm studying the use of the pileus and Phrygian Cap as political symbols and I'm trying to figure out if there was precedent for a red hat being part of a peasant/folk costume before the French Revolution? Is there any documentation of folk costumes with this feature before the late 18th century?

Hey all! I'm back to my shenanigans on 1860s Cinderella! So while my machine has decided to crap the bed and needs to be serviced, it meant all work on my corset round 2 had to stop so I went back to remaking the chemise. I am SOOOO much happier with this one! The fit is much better, the finishes are cleaner, no haphazard gores and all that is left is to hem the bottom! I also fixed my split drawers by adjusting the waistband which made the font gap issues some of you had pointed out go away and they're comfy! Next is to send my machine for repairs tomorrow and pray it​ doesn't cost loads of money and in the meantime, start rhinestoning the glass slippers and tackling the rest of the wig.

I bought this yesterday at an antique store, it’s very frail on the sleeves and I currently have it stored away in a box. Any advice on what I should do in matters of persevering it as well as confirmation this is real? I don’t see any tags on it but the entire thing is extremely frail.

Now this is bit weird, not much weird, but bit.

Anyway, for my whole life I have been making different arts and crafts projects, but so far only wood and metal projects. I have done things with fabric before but now I would like to try something harder (nice winter project). And what else could be harder than complete womens historical costume.

I have always adored dresses from late 18th to late 19th, exception being Regency era. So I would like to try something from that time period. I guess I would prefer something stylish, but not over the top (like the widest of the Robe à la française). Now there is lots and lots written about topic and there are thousands of patterns to use. It is rather hard for a beginner to determine what would be suitable. Is there any specific guide or set of patterns that would work nicely together I could use to start the 'journey'.

Now the funny/weird part, which presents an additional challenge. I am guy and I do not have girlfriend or anyone else to make clothing for so this will be just for decorative purposes. This will also mean that I need suitable mannequin. Is there anything special to look for in mannequin when using it for historical dresses?

Hi!! To make a very long story short, I am looking to make a short film that is set in the early 1700s. My main character is a woman from the working class, but the majority of articles I have seen seem to be centred around fashion from the upper classes so I’m not sure where to start. I would like to be as accurate as possible, so any advice is greatly appreciated. The short film will also be set on the coast/beach if that changes anything. Thank you so much!

EDIT: Sorry, should have clarified. This will be set in England, and the character is white british. The other main character is a man, working-class and british-Caribbean, so if you also happen to know anything about that as a bonus it would be a real help! Thank you!!

To me they look very similar.
Both attached off the shoulder and very voluminous.

If anyone has photos of the sleeve patterns that would be very helpful.

It’s for a modern black-tie dress I’m remaking.

Idk why but lately I’ve been loving that elbow length massive sleeve.

I can’t believe I get to do this! It’s a dream come true!

Another update to add: Those of you planning to visit please adjust expectations from “Museum Exhibit” to “High School Home Ec Presentation.” I don’t want anyone to be disappointed! Just a nerd with too much time over here! 😂

Update to add; I am not a historian, just a very dedicated fanatic of the Victorian era. The Museum I work at is tiny,and dusty and a bit boring but I love it so 🖤It’s on a small island off of Oakland. It functions at project for the many people in Alameda who have Victorian homes (we also do homes tours) and enjoy volunteering to share the nerdiness and dust with you all.

Everything in the museum was donated by people who lived in Alameda. Alameda has a collection of Victorian homes that is well known amongst people who love such wonderfully nerdy things.

They also have a small catalog of clothing starting around 1890 through around 1970.
It made me bananas that it was sitting in the stacks and we couldn’t put it out so I became a squeaky wheel for a long time 😆

I asked every time I volunteered if I could clean inside the shoe cases and it took about a year for them to let me do it. Not because they didn’t trust me, but because the owner (who had passed away) didn’t like anything to be changed ever. After the shoe display was done, they were thrilled and they agreed to let me have my own room where I can display exhibits. (feels important to add here that I am always in historical garments at the museum).

My first exhibit is “Victorian Women, Mistresses of Illusion and Thrift” I aim to bust a few myths that I hear commonly, (actually all the time) by showing how layers and padding gave the illusion of a tiny waist.

Patrons will be able to interact with things like buttonhooking boots, bustles, pads, lacing, a corset and the like. Since we can’t use the garments that are in my display as they are too fragile to be handled, I have recreated many of the pieces so that we can share that with people and have a tactile experience!

The blue bodice does not need much mending at all. The collar needs to be closed on one end. Many of the hooks and eyes are missing so I will be replacing those. The gigot sleeves were clearly added on after the bodice made to keep up with the “leg-o-mutton” fashion trend.
One of the gigots is open and the stuffing has come out so that will need to be fixed. Also, there’s an area on the back of the jacket that has been darned, but for some reason, it was darned with yellow thread so if I have time I will be trying to darn it in a color that matches

Tomorrow I will put up a walking suit that I’m working on which is much more complicated as the top of the waist line has almost completely ripped away from the skirt itself. She also used some kind of pleating technique that I think she was trying to use as a a bit of a bustle? in the back, but it’s come undone and it’s very difficult to put it back together.

My process is pretty simple. I use whatever tools were available at the time of these garments were made, and I use stitches that were available in the time these garments were made. Victorian women were masters of making clothes work for any size because garments often got handed down and down and down until it fell apart.

I will be breaking one role, however, I will be using electric light to do my sewing. Otherwise, I’m pretty sure I would sew my hand to the garment😂

I’m unsure if I would be able to starch it using an iron since the black lace is synthetic + it’s already sewn together. Any tips? I haven’t tried starching anything before

Hi folks! Former archivist here. My focus has always been on the Vietnam and American Civil War era. However, I just got some hand-me-downs! Was wondering if they're any good and what I could fix?

And yes, I know it's crooked lol. Trying it on for the photo!

I recently purchased this from a Renaissance Festival. I was wondering if it’s possible to get a coat of arms embroidered onto the chest era. If so how would I go about it?

I didn't have time to stitch hooks and eyes on the Back so we closed it with brooches for now.

Hi, I’m making a regency gown for a project and am wondering if these sleeves are historically accurate (nothing to do with the fabric used, just the shaping) . I’m struggling to find much evidence of them but I think it would be a cute sleeve for what I’m wanting to make. If it is accurate historically and anyone knows of any historical illustrations or paintings with similar sleeves in and could send them that would be awesome, as well as any one who may have made instructions on the making of the sleeve? Thank you 🙏🙏