A couple weeks a go i 3D printed some parts for my car, i noticed there was metal 3D printing option. I wanted to test out the durability of the metal parts so I modeled an AR hammer. Realistically, how many shots would you all think this will last?

More info: The hammer is made up of slm 316L stainless steel. I managed to retain the hammer pin successfully by recreating the J pin found on real hammers.

Tool steel was available for printing, it would only cost a bit more. I was thinking of hardening it and testing it compared to a real hanmer.

Civet 12 super shorty just need to square up, crown and thread the muzzle. Fabricate an actual barrel to replace the 3d printed placeholder and refinish.

I got an SAS Suppressor in that I was told was direct thread to 5/8-24, but which ended up being a TOMB thread 11/16-16 made specifically for SAS suppressors. They are out of business and though Area 419 was manufacturing adapters for them for years... they no longer do, and no longer have stock.

I have hit up Mile High and everyone else I knew that carried them, they are all out of stock.

I have tried everywhere I can think and can not locate one, so this suppressor is unusable to a find an adapter.

With that said, Any one know where I can get, I guess a custom, adapter for 5/8-24 female (rifle barrel side) to 11/16-16 male (suppressor side) that is rated for up to 300 mag?

If you have a direct link please feel free to DM me.

Hi All,

Over the last year, i've been on-and-off developing a precision chassis for one of my rifles.

I've been prototyping with my 3D Printer and I'm at the stage where I'd like to start an aluminium (or alloy whichever is cheaper at this point) prototype, however much like 99% of the population I don't own a 5-axis milling machine.

Has anyone done anything similar and can recommend a company that I can send the files to, have them manufacture it, and ship it back to me?

Edit: ideally, somewhere in Australia

Heritage Settler .22 rifle

I have a 3 week old 10/22 carbon fiber non-takedown (model 32014). Put 200 rounds of cci mini mag through it so far. While cleaning, I noticed an almost ramp-like wear on the breech face right above the extractor cut-out. Is this normal? The extractor is sitting nicely centered in that cutout, and when I slide the bolt back and forth by hand the extractor makes no contact with the edges of the cutout. Just goes right into it. What could possibly be causing this? Photo attached.

Edit: I have not experienced a single malfunction so far.

Brand new bought yesterday any idea where to get replacement

Gunsmithing student, not much stock experience. I have an already finished stock to fit to an old double barrel shotgun. It doesn't quite fit right, I have to deepen the tang cut. What is a good way, if any, to cut out part of the stock without doing damage to the existing finish?

Got the 50 head spaced and timed for a machine gun shoot next month. These are the days I giggle about what I get paid to do.

Yes I checked. It’s not welded or pinned. That was step one.

I have this brigade bm9 and because I’m in a free state, I can now just go buy a suppressor. In my total excitement I immediately took the gun I always wanted to suppress and tried to get this stupid fake can off. To no avail. This sucker is stuck good. Took the guard off and chucked up in a vise with rags to protect it and used a strap wrench. Didn’t budge. Then I took heat to it. It hard because it’s a fake can not a muzzle break so the heat doesn’t really get to the threads. Tried penetrating oil and let it soak for days. Nothing. Got fed up and decided to try a pipe wrench. It’s a $30 part so idc if I mess it up. Nothing. Now I’m committed because I beat it up. She’s on there really good. Idk where to go from here. 160 buys me a new barrel. Do I just do that? I would hate to do that honestly.

I’m not sure what this tells me but I put window chalk on my magazine lips because I have issues with it binding only when a mag is inserted and this is where it rubs, corresponding wear on the bolt. Any ideas?

Question: is there anywhere that I can get a shorter barrel for a 1969 Ithaca 37 featherlight? Thank you

This all started when I grabbed a random stock I had accumulated and decided to clean it up and see what it was. It hadn’t been sporterized but the last 2 inches had been broken off. I figured out a way to to restore the stock and found a similar vintage/production VZ 24 on gunbroker with a sporterized stock. The donor gun had’t been drilled for a scope and the barrel had not been cut but now that I have it, the barrel has either been caustic blued or cold blued. I suspect cold blue because bore cleaner on a rag makes the rag turn black.

the stock is almost done and I’m ready to convert the rust on all the small parts and possibly do a ”refresher” pas of rust blue depending on how the conversion goes. The problem is I need to remove all the cold blue and residual copper before I can rust blue the barrel. I’d prefer a method which would leave any finish under the cold blue intact.

I found a .357 barrel black that’s pre chambered, and my plan is to make turn down the blank to fit inside the existing barrel. The existing barrel is a smoothbore measuring .542 at the muzzle, and the chamber is pretty close to 20 gauge. Would a secondary barrel of sorts fit in these measurements?

I would be running it with black powder.

This is my BAR Shorttrac in 270WSM. I am interested in having open sights added to it and use a scope with tunnel mounts. Any thoughts on this?

I’m new to 1911s and gun ownership as a whole so bear with me. I recently just picked up the Tisas 1911A1 government. For some reason it only jams on the last round. Extractor tension seems fine. I’ve ordered a new Springfield armory mag to see if it helps. I took it apart and noticed the slide stop makes contact with the bullet. It’s just a hair too long. Is this causing my failure to feed issue? I might be delusional but idk. If the mag doesn’t fix the issue I’ll probably contact Tisas and see if I can send it in for warranty work or if they’ll just send me a new part.

Is there a way to fix this? Or can somebody link a place to buy a new extractor

I have a Ruger No. 3 currently chambered in 22 Hornet that I’d like to have re-barreled to 30-30 Win. I have a couple of questions I hope someone can answer.
1. Is it possible to have it Re- barreled using a Ruger No. 1 light sporter (A) profile barrel?
2. Are there any gunsmiths that can turn that specific profile and fit a Ruger No.1 type front sight band?
3. Are there any particular Gunsmiths that any of you would recommend?
4. Is there any way to say roughly how much this would cost? I know it’s going to be expensive either way but I always like to have a number in mind.
Any input is greatly appreciated, god bless!

I have a standard Remington 700 ADL in .308. I want to threat it for a muzzle device. Would I need to buy a thicker barrel or can I get away with just threading the factory tapered one?

The photo is the exact model I have but not my actual rifle since I don’t have a photo of it. Google says the barrel diameter at the muzzle is .660”