I was just browsing YouTube when the algorithm shows an interesting video. it looks like Realforce has finally joined the split keyboard scene:

it seems quite unique layout? 75% without Nav cluster is rather an interesting choice, oh and it's also support tenting mount which is nice.
thoughts?

Full Case Study: https://nullmoniker.ca/keyboard.html

I have been working on my Corne keyboard for the past few years, mostly dialing in a unique layout that is optimized for single handed use.

The biggest slowdown on a computer is the trip between mouse and keyboard. Most ergonomic keyboards try to solve that by keeping you on the keyboard. That works for coding. It falls apart in CAD, video editing, and any workflow that jumps between programs, where the mouse is doing half the work.

In that kind of work you are rarely typing a whole word. You type the first few letters of a command, or a hotkey. So I flipped the goal: keep one hand on the mouse, and put the whole keyboard under the other one.

That set the requirements. Every key has to be pressable without shifting the hand. Common tasks live on the home row. Every letter can be typed with one hand. And every hotkey has to work from that same hand, whether it is Shift plus a key or Ctrl plus Shift plus a key.

This project also includes a custom feature rich case design, and custom software overlay that helps you learn the new layout while using the keyboard.

I would love feedback, and to know if anyone else has attempted this approach before?

I am a proud owner of an Ergonaut One, whose case has been 3D printed (not by myself) in a plastic material. I am wondering if any of you have experience of printing an aluminium case for it, to give it a more premium feel.

I'm an FPS gamer.. ranked Search & Destroy and BRs are my jam, and my ADHD brain thrives on outsmarting opponents.

Due to nerve issues, hEDS, and injuries, I can't play games like Valorant, CS, or CoD on standard inputs without constantly re-injuring myself.
For those using ergonomic split setups (or custom layers/trackballs/azeron/etc.):

How have you mapped or adapted your setup to play high-intensity competitive games without wrecking your hands/arms?

Are there specific switches, layouts, or hardware configurations that reduced physical strain for you while keeping up with twitchy inputs?

I've been printing sculpted caps (KLP Lamé) for my Geist Totem and wanted a little customization-mostly angles, and also fixing the clearance on silent Choc switches (Ambients / Golden Kiwis) so I don't need a spacer.

For pinky columns, inner index columns, and splayed thumb keys, I wanted to angle the top dish in both directions (pitch and roll) without having to remodel the surface from scratch in CAD.

So "I" put together a single-page web tool that loads the actual `.stl` files directly from the GitHub repos (`braindefender/KLP-Lame-Keycaps`, `vvhg1/clp-keycaps`, `cfx_chicago_stenographer`, or you can drop in your own local `.stl`) and deforms the mesh directly in the browser:

• Top tilt (up/down & left/right) + explicit height:** Only the sculpted top surface tilts or changes height; the walls loft smoothly down to a flat bottom skirt and the stem stays vertical.
• Spacer-free Ambient / silent switch mod:** Instead of shimming the stem and raising the cap, you can trim the bottom edge of the skirt walls upward (+0.4mm to +0.6mm) and tweak prong tip length.
• Homing & legends (raised or recessed):** You can add homing bars/dots/rings or arbitrary letters/symbols, and toggle them between protruding (embossed) or reverse (engraved).
• Print tolerances & socket swap:** Slider to tweak XY stem tightness for resin/FDM, or swap a cap between Choc v1 (0° or 90°) and MX.

Live Tool: https://c1oover.github.io/ErgoCapSTLStudio/

Source: https://github.com/c1oover/ErgoCapSTLStudio

Currently using KLP Lamé 0 pitch (tilted saddle top and bottom row) with outers angled 6 degrees inside; thumb keys at 10 degrees pitch and 6 degrees inward, with an extra indicator. All on MoErgo Golden Kiwi switches, so that's what's most tested and I can confirm working. Don't judge the 3D-print quality ... still needs post-processing.

Everything runs locally in the browser and exports a binary `.stl`. Hope somebody needs or enjoys it :)

I just switched over to colemakdh. ZMK lets you build with a debug flag which streams key outputs, which you can use to visualize data with!

As a follow-up to my walnut palm rest design from last year, I'm excited to share the another version of EKRest.

Key Features:
Comfort & Support: Built with PU leather and comfortable foam padding to effectively relieve wrist stress.
Full Adjustability: Includes a rigid metal tenting mechanism to fine-tune both height and tilt angles.

Details: www.ergokeeb.com

Other project:
EKGO: Flexible keyboard layout [Link]
EKBOX: 36-key split with trackball [Link]
EKZBall: Adjustable trackball module [Link]
EKRP / EKNRF: Modular MCU platform [Link]
EKCORNE: Corne with trackball [link] CNC case for Corne v4 [Link]
EKTENT: Universal adjustable tenting base [Link]
EKREST: Adjustable ergonomic palm rest
EKSS: Super Split! One keyboard for any layouts!
EKARM: Split keyboard mounting arms
EKPAD: Trackpad concept module
EKMOVE: Integrated mouse/keyboard combo concept
mouse/keyboard concept

Hey everyone,

I could not find too much information about the Corne choc pro BT by Keebart, but I decided to pull the trigger anyways and now I wanted to share my experience with you. Just so you know I live in Europe, so delivery-wise it was very convenient.

My main reason for choosing this specific corne was compatibility with v2 chocs. I already had a typeractive wireless corne with Ambients Twilights, but since I also have Iqunix Magi65 with Kailh Ghost switches, I just felt like it was missing something.

After this bit-too-long intro, onto the Keebart corne - I went with the 6 column version with the aluminum case. First impression was great and it still holds - quality and finish is amazing, very smooth to the touch and looks very consistent. I had a recent experience with some aluminum case from kickstarter that heavily under delivered, so I was a bit worried about this one, but turns out it is great. Plate also sits flush with the case and there is no warping anywhere.

Additionally there is some foam in there to help with the acoustics, but I have not done extensive testing there yet.

Currently I use with Deep Sea Whale, but I plan to switch to Black Cloud once my package arrives. I have a few samples, so I already know it sounds gorgeous. Might as well try the Ghosts, as they also gave very nice, deep-ish and clear sound.

Since I went with the display-less version I also prepared a ZMK module to get on-demand status for Bluetooth and battery using the underglow LEDs.

All in all I am very happy with this keyboard and Keebart. Quality is great, feels very premium, contact with Keebart also amazing, so I can only recommend it.

Happy to answer more questions if you are thinking about getting this keeb

Six year ago we shipped our first keyboard. It was a Sofle v2. We had one design, no stock, and a wait time I'd rather not repeat. Some of the people who ordered that first batch are still customers, which is the part I still find hard to believe.

We're a small shop. Six years on, we still build every board by hand.

To mark the anniversary, three of the boards that got us here are 20% off from today until 31 October.

Sofle v2 Enclosed Case. Our longest-running aluminum case, and part of the very first product we ever made. $170, now $136.

S​ofle Hybrid (Sandwich version, Aluminum Version). Our first exclusive design. Before the Hybrid we were mostly building open source designs. This is where we started making our own. Aluminum version $250, now $200. Sandwich style $120, now $96.

Aluminum NeoDox, Gasket Mount. Our first original design, and our first gasket mount. $350, now $280.

The 20% on those three comes off at checkout. No code needed.

Every other keyboard we sell is 10% off over the same stretch, with the reduced price shown on the page as usual. Loose parts aren't part of it: plates, switches and keycaps stay at their normal prices.

Thanks for six years. Ordering a keyboard from a small shop is a leap of faith, and we know it.

defs not low profile like the many ones shown in this community lol.. just wanted to share what i use for work as a data analyst // warehouse coordinator so naturally i need and use pretty much every key.

anyways, hope y’all like!

Printed this custom base in a local print shop.

Happy with this set up for a few months so far.

UPD, it's Sofle, indeed, not Corne. The printing model remained at the print shop - I'll ask if they are willing to share.

UPDATE: Since I am transitioning to a new job and will have four weeks off between jobs, I decided to rip the bandaid off and go for the Voyager. If it doesn't work out, I'll switch to Raise2. This is an investment in my quality of life, so it's worth the time and energy. I'll let everyone know how it goes. Thank you all for so much amazingly supportive and helpful guidance!

Hi,

I am a paralegal with small hands (about 7" from beginning of lower hand to tip of middle finger) who has forearm and wrist strain due to years of typing and, when younger, competitve road bicycling. I am seeking to improve ergonomics.

I purchased a pair of open-box Ergo Rest Arm Forearm Support on E-Bay to help create a neutral, stable forearm and wrist.

I am now looking for a split mechanical keyboard. I'm thinking of trying the voyager. I use my mouse quite a bit and haven't ever used a trackball. I'm considering getting the Voyager or the Dygma and wondering if anyone has any thoughts on which might work best and what switch options I might want to consider. I also looked at Glove80 and Moonlander, which I think wouldn't work well for my small hands.

I'd also like recommendations on a tenting solution. Some people have mentioned UGREEN Magnetic Phone Stand is a good option?

I work remotely from a home office so I won't need to move around much. I'm getting a new chair (working with a friend who does Ergo consults but doesn't specialize in mech keyboards) and monitor arms and I already have a sit stand desk.

Being petite (5'3" / 120 pounds) makes finding a good setup a little more challenging, especially a good chair.

I am overwhelmed by all the options out there and would appreciate any guidance offered. I like the idea of potentially being able to add the Navigator to the Voyager.

Thank you.

Just finished assembling my new Keyball 61+. Yet to use it. I’ll post assembly info and a review in the coming weeks, as I get some spare time and some actual daily use on this new setup.

Thinking of giving myself a Charybdis Nano (prebuilt) for my birthday, so tell me any disadvantages of the design or of buying from Bastardkb.

Does the trackball work smoothly? Is it awkward? (I have a touch of arthritis in one thumb.)

Is it easy to configure? Can you use Vial/Pipette? Or, if I write the QMK code, is it easy to load?

(edit) If there is a Charybdis – or indeed any Dactyl Manuform – anywhere near Whatcom, I'd like to try the feel of the thumb clusters.

I’ve been mapping per-finger reach zones on a flat surface: each finger’s motion while the other four stay planted (typing-like posture), left hand only so far.

I care about two practical outcomes:

1. Layout rules from the zones e.g. bottom row tends to want one key per finger; home/upper can support two for index/pinky; thumb zone is huge in area. I’m treating the painted region as not uniform comfort — edges are often reachable statically but awkward dynamically (hand lifts and “hovers”).
2. Dual-row thumb clusters on flat boards Area-wise, two thumb rows look justified. Anecdotally (small Telegram sample), two keys in the same column are hard to press cleanly with the thumb and can misclick when the palm rests. Mitigations people mentioned: different physical heights, short travel / recessed keys, or avoiding a pure Y-pair (arc / X-offset instead). I’d like more than a handful of opinions.

What I’m looking for

• Links to studies or write-ups of finger reach / motion envelopes for keyboard layout (anything systematic — academic, blog, repo notes). I haven’t found good references yet.
• Experience with two thumb rows on flat (non-keywell) boards: misclicks? workable arrangements? what failed?
• Flat or near-flat layouts that actually use two thumb rows (not just a long single arc). So far the main dual-row example I’ve overlaid is yacc46; most of my other refs (TOTEM, Lapka, etc.) are single-row thumbs with various splay.

Images: raw zone map; TOTEM overlaid (single-row thumb, partial splay); yacc46 overlaid (two-row thumb).

Not selling a design — still at the measurement / comparison stage. Happy to adjust the method if people have better ways to capture dynamic comfort, not just static reach.

Thanks.

I want to introduce you to The Wolf 🐺 — A 40-key split keyboard that I designed and built from scratch.

I posted some 3D renders a few weeks ago and promised to come back with updates after testing the final keyboard. And honestly, it’s been awesome. The layout is inspired by Corne and designed for GLP 3.0 switches.

Core features:

• Wireless BLE using XIAO nRF52840
• Ultra-low-profile build (8mm case and 11mm total)
• Lightweight (only 300 g for both halves)
• Case made of Anodized Aluminum 6061
• White backlight
• RGB status LEDs
• MX-Spacing and Gateron 3.0 LP switches (Nuphy Silent Blush)
• Long battery life with 700 mAh (each half)

First, I want to thank u/jlccnc for sponsoring the aluminum case production, they were super helpful and answered a ton of questions about the case design and production details.

Now that everything is in place, here are some details about my experience with it over the past few weeks:

The keyboard layout turned out to be pretty consistent with how I use it. Adding around 4.76 mm of column stagger was essential. It helped me improve my hand posture and made finger movement feel more natural, especially since I have wide hands.

The only two keys on the outermost column played a key role in the design. Since I shifted the column down by +U/2 (~9.525 mm) so it stays in the middle, it's easy to reach without stretching the fingers. It was challenging at the beginning, but now I'm pretty comfortable with them.

The ultra-thin 8 mm case also helps a lot with ergonomics, reducing the strain caused by long typing sessions.

Since the case is made mainly from 6061 aluminum, the keyboard has a clean, minimalistic, and premium look, especially with the matte black finish (anodized and bead-blasted). It's also pretty lightweight, which isn't necessarily a problem, but I wish it were a bit heavier so it would stay more firmly in place on my desk pad. I might still add something to give the build a little extra weight.

The RGB status LEDs work really well and do exactly what I wanted them to do. With my previous keyboards, I often felt like I was "in the dark" since there was no easy way to tell whether they were powered on or what state they were in.

Having white-only backlighting is also great. With a 700 mAh battery in each half, battery life has been excellent. Another thing that makes me happy with this design is the decision to power the backlight directly from the battery, avoiding unnecessary load on the MCU's voltage regulator. As for brightness, it's more than enough for its purpose, and I always keep it at the lowest setting.

I loved the process of building this keyboard, and learned a lot from open-source keyboards, which is worth mentioning here:

• Corne
• Delta Omega
• Klor
• Krteq

Sources:

Gallery Site: https://willacosta.github.io/wlfkbd/
GitHub: https://github.com/WillACosta/wlfkbd/
Firmware: https://github.com/WillACosta/zmk-config-wlf

I would love to hear your feedback. Thanks!

I’m looking for an external trackpad for Windows 11 that works without additional drivers and supports gesture customization through Windows settings.

My main concern is cursor latency, especially when starting to move my finger.
I’m considering the Sanwa 400-MABTY201GM and POLARMETA X2, but I’m open to other suggestions.

Has anyone tried these or similar models? How’s the responsiveness, and is there a noticeable difference between wired and Bluetooth connections?

I got me a wireless Corne split Keyboard to scratch an itch I didn't know I had until I stumbled across this subreddit.

Since the learning curve is there anyway, I decided to jump straight into the Miryoku layout, might as well learn it now if I ever want to go smaller.

Problem is, I type a lot in Portuguese, and it uses a few accents, something that the Miryoku layout doesn't prioritize.

What I came up with was an "accent layer" right above the HRM. Holding it gives me the accented keys, pressing space produces the symbol on its own.

I'm wondering if this is the best method, or if I'm complicating things. It's my first time with ZMK and split keyboards with custom mapping.

Any feedback is welcome!

Edit: thank you all for the great suggestions, I've took notes and appreciate the guidance.

Hi,

to the ppl who had both keebs. Which one has higher curvature horizontally?
Especially regarding the curva for the index finger.

From the pictures I would guess that the G80 has more curvature at the innter part for the index finger compared to the dactyls.

Hi,

I have been trying for quite a while now to flash my 5 column corne with Miryoku. I copied the repository and ran the workflow with build inputs.

I used the Build Inputs workflow with the shield corne_left,corne_right and the board nice_nano (v2 seems to be expired and the nice_nano option is the v2 version by default).

The workflow compiles the firmware and I can flash it but I cannot type anything. I used a firmware from the vendor for the kit and this firmware worked, so it is not a hardware issue.

Does anyone have an idea what is going wrong or what I could check to find the issue? Thanks a lot in advance.

I don`t need the full fledged miryoku, so if there are alternatives for colemak I am also interested in such ideas. I must admit I neglected the board for 2 years but want to give it another try. So my knowledge is maybe a little outdated.

Howdy yall,

I'm currently trying to reflash the firmware for my Sofle Hybrid, and I'm running into issues of understanding. Can I bother someone to ELI-5 me through getting this keyboard back up and running?

Ergomech was generous enough to help me replace a board I broke, although I was never able to get them to pair to each other, and now I think I've done too much go back on my own.

I loved using this keyboard, and would love to get it off my "In-progress Projects" shelf once again.

Thanks in advance for any assistance or engagement

Hi, I'm Ross. I run Boards Before Breakfast, a small shop in Virginia. I bought the remaining inventory from KeyHive after they closed; and I have some Egg58s that came separately, straight from its designer, who I work with.

Ordering a batch makes sense if you already have plans for the extra boards. If you're building just one, I sell single PCB pairs, so you can get the parts you need without accidentally starting a PCB collection. I also carry board-specific parts for several splits:

-Corne v2 Classic PCB pair and component kit — bare PCB pairs or selected plate options; through-hole parts

- Corne v3 PCB pair and component kit — bare PCB pairs or selected plate options; SMD parts

- Sofle RGB PCB pair and component kit — black or white PCBs, with selected plate options

- Lily58 PCB pair and component kit — white PCBs

- Egg58 PCB pair and component kit — low-profile Kailh Choc v1; PCB pair includes matching top plates

The PCB and component kits are separate listings, so you can choose what you need. Kit contents and controller options vary by board; Egg58 uses Choc v1 parts, not MX. Check each listing for details, or browse the [shop](https://boardsbe4breakfast.etsy.com).

These are DIY parts, not complete keyboards. Switches, keycaps, and cases aren't included; plates are only included with selected PCB options.

Ordering a batch from JLC or PCBWay may still be cheaper if you'll use the extras. My pitch is simpler: get one PCB pair, skip the overseas sourcing scavenger hunt, and have it ship domestically. [Boards Before Breakfast on Etsy](https://boardsbe4breakfast.etsy.com).

I made CoreX, a replacement right-side PCB that adds pointing controls to the Cornix while keeping its original case, battery, switches and keycaps.

Powered by RMK, with keymaps and trackball settings editable in Vial. The trackball build works over Bluetooth or USB.

I’m also developing CoreX Studio, which lets you customize keymaps, cursor speed and trackball gestures wirelessly. The screenshots include a preview!

The hardware accommodates a 19 mm trackball, TrackPoint or trackpad, with room for up to two pointing modules. The PCB swap uses the screwdriver included with the Cornix.

What would you pair with the trackball: an encoder, TrackPoint or trackpad?

Firmware & build guide: https://github.com/yuchamichami/CoreX-Proto-RMK

Hardware & modules (BOOTH, Japanese): https://yukeyshop.booth.pm/items/8933715

Keycap legends in the first photo by Paraph14.

Argh, I spilled water on my board and now at least two keys are misbehaving.

Is there a Vial-compatible split board that I can get quickly in USA? I am not a DIY guy.