I have a V1 (Teensy3.5) and a V2 (Teensy4.1) Dropbear to sell. They were evaluated and they work, but didn't fit my applications. I am trying to sell them on eBay but oh lordy you can't sell devices that defeat emissions on eBay now for some reason. I also have new plugs and crimp connectors for each so you'll have everything. Ideally looking for a fair sale, unless you have some special 3000gt/GTO stuff you're willing to trade. Located in the southwest, willing to ship. Looking ~$350 for either, but will consider offers

EDIT: V2 is spoken for, V1 is still available

I have a vq35de and i got my hands on HALF of a turbo manifold for a twin turbo system. My plans is to turbo half the car essentially making it a 3 cylinder turbo. Have the turbo down pipe mate with the rest of my exhaust system. I want to know if a tuner could shut off the non turbo side of the motor for maximum fuel efficiency out of the turbo side. it will make power just wanted an eco mode.

I drive a 2009 Ford Mondeo 2.5T. About a year ago, I removed the centre resonator, and later had a valved exhaust system installed just before the rear mufflers. So, apart from the catalytic converter, it’s essentially a straight pipe when the valves are open.

When the valves are open, I sometimes get some pretty loud pops and bangs from the exhaust. Nothing crazy like anti-lag gunshots, but they’re definitely not subtle either 😂

My question is: can these pops and bangs damage the turbo, or could they potentially damage the catalytic converter? Are there any other components that could be affected by them?

Thanks in advance!

I've been working on the CAN log analyzer in DBC Utility and recently changed how log replay works.

Previously, replay was closer to navigating through a recorded log. Now I'm trying to make it behave more like an actual live CAN capture: as the replay progresses, the trace and signal plots populate only up to the current replay timestamp.

I also added a per-message trace view that keeps the latest frame for each CAN ID alongside the complete frame list.

A few other things I've changed:

• Reworked the log analyzer UI with separate Sources, Inspector and Trace views
• Signal inspection now shows start/end bits and the corresponding bit layout
• Opening a log can reuse the DBC that's already open
• DBC mappings can be refreshed without reopening the log

I recorded a ~60 second video showing how it currently works:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MOKxtikxSw8

I'm still working on the analyzer, so I'm particularly interested in how people here normally analyze larger CAN logs.

dbcutility.com

feedbacks are welcome. Thank you.

Hi, i currently have the Openport 2.0 (J2534) dongle, and would like to backup a friends ECU tune and flash it back to mine. Both dirt bikes are equipped with the Bosch MSE 8.0 ECU. What is the cheapest (preferably open source or free) tool i could use to perform the backup and then the upload to my ECU?

hi i’m looking for some advice i recently bought an alfa romeo gulia and its runs on 91aki
but the state im in only sells 90they dont sell 91aki graded fuel
and im 1 wondering if i should put some mtt free octane booster in the car 2 wondering if i should get it tuned to 90aki (would make slower than is) 3 is continuing to run 90 in it which i dont want to do
i drive like how someone with an alfa romeo does
i push it and i don’t want to keep pushing the car on 90 so now im here wondering if anybody can give me any help or offer any different alternatives i was octane boost but dont know which to buy and what not going to a tuner shop today to see if they can tune my ecu to run on 90 but i dont feel entirely confident in my local tuning shop

I’ve learned how to tune the MAF but I keep chasing my tail. I’ve gotten to a point where my graph is pretty linear. But it seems like when I make a change it swings too much. I’m to the point of making tenths of a percentage changes. Can anyone with any experience let me know what I could be doing wrong? Currently thinking about flashing back to stock and starting over. I want to learn and understand how to tune. Side question, should I Just swap to speed density based tune instead?

I know there’s a lot of green and red blocks, but would it be relatively easy for someone with no experience to do?

Bonjour j’ai une Toyota paséo de 1996 quelle dimension de jantes et de pneu puis je installer ?

I’ve recently installed a greddy emanage ultimate and it’s not allowing the car to spark. Does anyone know what pins/wires to check? Or any other info? Thanks.

Has anyone ever used one of these? I have a car here that has one installed with an a650e. I'm trying to get it going for the customer. It's currently defaulted to 3rd gear.

I can read the TCM and view live data like TPS and resistance on the shifter position circuit. I am unable to write to the TCM. It errors out and says the chip might be busy. I have reached out to dicktator in South Africa and they are awful about getting a response back, finally got someone and they said they couldn't help and then ghosted me.

I’m running a k24a2 swap in my 1992 civic, through a rsx type s engine harness and Linkg4x (dc5 kseries) plug and play. I’m running a fused (10 amp) direct power line from my battery to the ecu power via a secondary relay triggered by my main relay.

During tuning, my car would shut off only during hard launches. I have isolated the issue to poor connectivity in connector “A” by gently tugging wires.

This is when the ecu completely lost power and the fuse on its direct power line. I only kept blowing the same fuse thereafter, without the ecu powering on at all.

I tested resistance between pins: A3 (ignition 12 V power) and A4 (ecu ground) and it showed 0 resistance. (Continuity). Have I fried my ecu? Or is this an artifact of my testing method?

Examining the board showed no burnt hardware. No smoke escaped when I blew the fuse. And there is no physical damage to the board.

I just purchased a tesla roadster, and I need some help tuning it. I want it to do a barrel roll on command, anyone knows how to do this?

Car: 2013 Golf Mk7 1.6 TDI DSG, engine CLHA.
ECU: Bosch EDC17C64, VW 04L 907 309 B, Bosch 0 281 018 510, TC1797.

Car lost drive in traffic with a gearbox fault warning, then ABS and hill hold lights came on and it wouldn't start. U0100 logged (no comms with engine ECU), plus P0841, P17BF and P189C.

A second-hand ECU with the same part numbers was programmed to the car. It talked to diagnostics and the car drove normally for a short while, then the same no comms fault came back.

Opened the original ECU and found an ST chip near the top right of the board with a burnt crater in the package and blackened legs on one side. Photos attached. The part number line is burnt through, but I can see MYS, XP and 312. From the package (24 pin PowerSSO) and the XP suffix, I think it's an L9958XP H-bridge. Going to confirm from the same chip on the second ECU.

With two ECUs failing the same way, I'm guessing a shorted motor or harness in the car is killing this driver.

Questions for anyone who knows this board:
1. Is that chip an L9958 on the EDC17C64?
2. Which actuator does it drive on the CLHA (throttle valve, EGR valve, something else)?
3. Anyone know which connector pins its outputs go to?

Trying to find the short before another ECU goes in. Thanks.

trying to buy secondhand bootmod3 please DM if available

Title explains it all. I have a EG civic with a single cam d15b vtec and recently bough myself a P28 with a hondata chip as my previous OBD1 ecu died. Of course I wanted to take advantage of the tunable ecu so I went to my friend who has tuned his own cars before.

The results were very sketchy. He increased ignition timing by a considerable amount via timing maps already and then proceeded to increase them by gear via gear compensation. AFR on the car was running around 11-12 which is rich by N/A standards. The car feels sluggish in mid range and buckles heavily at times on upshifts thanks to the uneeded timing.

The engine is stock for context. I wasn't expecting any big power gains obviously just a more driveable and responsive engine with very slight power gains but the guy somehow made it worse and probably caused some damage.

I have an ej8 civic that has a stock ecu (obd2) I know I need a jumper harness (obd2 to 1) but want to understand deeper. What else do I need to use a hondata, I saw there was another type of harness and am afraid of starting the hookups but I forgot to order something else.