Bonjour j’ai une Toyota paséo de 1996 quelle dimension de jantes et de pneu puis je installer ?

I’ve recently installed a greddy emanage ultimate and it’s not allowing the car to spark. Does anyone know what pins/wires to check? Or any other info? Thanks.

Has anyone ever used one of these? I have a car here that has one installed with an a650e. I'm trying to get it going for the customer. It's currently defaulted to 3rd gear.

I can read the TCM and view live data like TPS and resistance on the shifter position circuit. I am unable to write to the TCM. It errors out and says the chip might be busy. I have reached out to dicktator in South Africa and they are awful about getting a response back, finally got someone and they said they couldn't help and then ghosted me.

I’m running a k24a2 swap in my 1992 civic, through a rsx type s engine harness and Linkg4x (dc5 kseries) plug and play. I’m running a fused (10 amp) direct power line from my battery to the ecu power via a secondary relay triggered by my main relay.

During tuning, my car would shut off only during hard launches. I have isolated the issue to poor connectivity in connector “A” by gently tugging wires.

This is when the ecu completely lost power and the fuse on its direct power line. I only kept blowing the same fuse thereafter, without the ecu powering on at all.

I tested resistance between pins: A3 (ignition 12 V power) and A4 (ecu ground) and it showed 0 resistance. (Continuity). Have I fried my ecu? Or is this an artifact of my testing method?

Examining the board showed no burnt hardware. No smoke escaped when I blew the fuse. And there is no physical damage to the board.

I just purchased a tesla roadster, and I need some help tuning it. I want it to do a barrel roll on command, anyone knows how to do this?

Car: 2013 Golf Mk7 1.6 TDI DSG, engine CLHA.
ECU: Bosch EDC17C64, VW 04L 907 309 B, Bosch 0 281 018 510, TC1797.

Car lost drive in traffic with a gearbox fault warning, then ABS and hill hold lights came on and it wouldn't start. U0100 logged (no comms with engine ECU), plus P0841, P17BF and P189C.

A second-hand ECU with the same part numbers was programmed to the car. It talked to diagnostics and the car drove normally for a short while, then the same no comms fault came back.

Opened the original ECU and found an ST chip near the top right of the board with a burnt crater in the package and blackened legs on one side. Photos attached. The part number line is burnt through, but I can see MYS, XP and 312. From the package (24 pin PowerSSO) and the XP suffix, I think it's an L9958XP H-bridge. Going to confirm from the same chip on the second ECU.

With two ECUs failing the same way, I'm guessing a shorted motor or harness in the car is killing this driver.

Questions for anyone who knows this board:
1. Is that chip an L9958 on the EDC17C64?
2. Which actuator does it drive on the CLHA (throttle valve, EGR valve, something else)?
3. Anyone know which connector pins its outputs go to?

Trying to find the short before another ECU goes in. Thanks.

trying to buy secondhand bootmod3 please DM if available

Title explains it all. I have a EG civic with a single cam d15b vtec and recently bough myself a P28 with a hondata chip as my previous OBD1 ecu died. Of course I wanted to take advantage of the tunable ecu so I went to my friend who has tuned his own cars before.

The results were very sketchy. He increased ignition timing by a considerable amount via timing maps already and then proceeded to increase them by gear via gear compensation. AFR on the car was running around 11-12 which is rich by N/A standards. The car feels sluggish in mid range and buckles heavily at times on upshifts thanks to the uneeded timing.

The engine is stock for context. I wasn't expecting any big power gains obviously just a more driveable and responsive engine with very slight power gains but the guy somehow made it worse and probably caused some damage.

I have an ej8 civic that has a stock ecu (obd2) I know I need a jumper harness (obd2 to 1) but want to understand deeper. What else do I need to use a hondata, I saw there was another type of harness and am afraid of starting the hookups but I forgot to order something else.

Hi all,

I'm looking for guidance, not a ready file. I want to understand the logic behind locating and editing these maps myself.

Vehicle / ECU:
- Dodge Durango 5.7 Hemi
- ECU: Continental GPEC2A
- Tool: KT200, full read done, backup saved
- WinOLS 4.7

What I want to do:
1. Disable MDS (cylinder deactivation)
2. Raise / remove Vmax limiter
3. Adjust torque limiter(s)

Where I'm stuck:
I have no A2L/damos for this ECU. I can open the file in WinOLS, but I don't know how to approach map identification on GPEC2A.

Questions:
- What is a good starting point for finding maps on GPEC2A without A2L? Typical axis values, map sizes, or patterns to look for?
- Is MDS usually a single enable flag/switch, or does it also require changes in MDS-related tables (RPM/load/temp enable conditions)? Any known traps (DTCs, lifter oil control solenoid faults)?
- Vmax: is it a single value or several limiters (per gear, per drive mode, TCM side)? Which unit/scaling is used?
- Torque limiter: are there separate limits for driver demand, TCM torque intervention, and gear-dependent limits? Which ones matter on the 5.7 with the 8-speed?
- Checksum: does KT200 correct the checksum on write for GPEC2A, or does it have to be done in WinOLS/externally?
- Any recommended tutorials, threads, or damos for a similar SW that I could use to learn the structure and compare?

I can share the SW/HW numbers and my read if it helps someone point me in the right direction, and I'll post my findings back once I get it working, so it's useful for others.

This is a hobby / learning project. If it goes well I'd like to work on other Stellantis vehicles (Pentastar / Hemi) later, so understanding the method matters more to me than a quick solution.

Thanks in advance!

Hola amigos, buen día.

Me interesa mucho aprender sobre tune.

Quiero saber como iniciar en esto, me gusta leer y aprender, quiero hacer modificaciones a mi auto es un mustang v6 4.0 2005

Estuve investigando, leyendo, viendo videos, y me confundí un poco, tengo mi laptop, tengo un cable usb - obd2, lo que no se, es que programas necesito, y si es que necesito algún hardware extra.

De antemano, muchas gracias:)

I’m looking to tune my 2013 Passat TDI, I’m deleted and have a down pipe. I’m really just wondering what I will have (spec wise) if I go to stage 2. I’m definitely tuning my DSG but wondering if stage 1 is a lot better for reliability. It’s my daily so I want it still reliable but want the extra power, anyone know anything???

Currently doing a standalone ecu for the m120 benz v12 with dual dbw tb and 36-1 crank trigger. Anyone know how to set up the cam sync on the cam sensors? Wondering at what degrees on the crank is when the cam sensor hits the magnet or triggers it or how is it set up on a standalone ecu.

Hey all. I started my tuning journey with HPA courses about 10 years ago and have tuned a few of my own projects (single-turbo 2JZ, LS swap, turbo bike) since then. I'm competent, but still learning.

The hardest part of the learning curve is the cost. Putting timing into a real engine is nerve-wracking when a mistake means buying a new motor, and dyno time isn't cheap. I spent years wanting for an easily accessible simulator to practice the fundamentals. After looking into building a physical bench emulator and finding that older web-based simulators no longer exist, I decided to build my own.

I ended up building one: ecubench.com

It’s a browser-based simulator where you get fully responsive VE, Ignition, and AFR/Lambda tables. It features speed density airflow, closed-loop trims, flex fuel, boost control (spring vs. duty), and a knock model that will actually hurt the virtual engine if you push it too far.

It also includes:

• A dyno for steady-state and ramp runs.
• A build sheet where changing hardware (cams, turbo, injectors) forces you to retune.
• A datalogger where you can record a pull and hover over the trace to read every channel.
• A drag strip (this is the newest part, so please keep expectations low, it's not too great yet).

Fair warning: it's early, there are bugs, and the UI is still evolving. I'm a software developer by trade and used AI to help get this over the finish line. There is a premium tier, but the core tuning workflow and free engines are fully functional without paying. I promise, I'm not here to sell anything, I just want people to poke around and test it out.

If anyone, experienced or completely new, has time to try and break it, I’d really appreciate the feedback. I'd especially love to know if any of the tuning fundamentals or engine physics feel off to you.

TL;DR: Learning to tune is expensive when mistakes cost you a motor, so I built a free, browser-based tuning simulator: ecubench.com. It features fully responsive VE/Ignition tables, knock modeling, dyno runs, and datalogging. I'm looking for feedback from the community to help me refine the physics and tuning fundamentals.

Ich habe einen QR-Code wo alles über das Auto drauf steht. Wann Öl Wechsel war und woher ich meinen Auspuff habe etc. Wie macht ihr es ?