Just looking for your thoughts on this one. I designed an high en 8-channels balanced DAC board extension for Raspberry Pi 5 only, mainly for CamillaDSP, active speakers and studio setups.

edit: It is also compatible with Pico 2 DSPi at a fraction of the cost

I've maade the best possible Specs: 2× ESS SABRE ES9081Q, dedicated low-noise ESS regulators, 124 dB DNR / −110 dB THD+N typical DAC specs, I think there is no other equivalent to it on the market, if so let me know.

for space and versatility DB25 outputs with breakout cables for XLR or 1/4-inch TRS (balanced), RCA(unbalanced) . Automatically recognised by Raspberry Pi OS with eeprom and microntroller onboard to do the dac init.

The design is finished, components bought, ready to start manufacturing. But before pushing the order button I’m having a last-minute doubt about the input side:

1. Where does your audio come from? Streaming/files on the Pi, or an external source through a USB interface? seen as a USB sound card
2. Would coax or optical S/PDIF input help? Or would you need analogue inputs?
3. Pi 5 or a cheaper standalone DSP? I’m considering a Pico 2 running DSPi to feed the same eight outputs through an adapter. Compatibility still needs testing, and it wouldn’t replace all of CamillaDSP’s capabilities. Would that interest you more?
4. Do you care about balanced output? unbalanced is hafl the componenets, half the price thus
5. Maybe I should make one ready to use box input : USB sound card SPDIF output 8 anload balanced based on Pico DSPi

I’m behind RASPIAUDIO. No preorder link, just looking for feedback before committing.

The picture of the board is a 3d render from the eletronic design tool then passed thru ai for better textures, but design does exist;

Built these DIY speakers for my son. They use 6.5" Quadral woofers, STX dome tweeters and bass-reflex enclosures made from 14 mm plywood. Each cabinet weighs around 8 kg.

The enclosures have a two-chamber design because my laser cutter's working area was too small to cut the panels in one piece. I'm not a carpenter, just a guy who likes building things and figuring stuff out as he goes. 😂

The sound is clean and lively, with a bit of V-shaped character and satisfying bass. I'm still tweaking the treble to my taste, but I'm pretty happy with how they turned out!

What do you guys think?

Does anyone have a construction plan for a G-Sub 1801?

I’m making a box for my 21” fi team Neo 4.9 with hyper coil this box makes best for space as far as I’ve been able to do anything wrong with doing this it’s tuned for roughly 32 hz due to space restrictions

The bottom and top face are the exact amount of space I have it’s going in a 3 series bmw wagon and due to roof flex and the rear window, I can’t do upfiring. without lowering the power significantly

My initial design objective was a 2.0 speaker that went flat to 20hz. After another crossover rebuild (1st order on both sides of the low point, 2nd on both sides of the high point) I've got these big things measuring as clean as I can. This is real room, real mic, real listening position. Nearfield shows that the woofers are clean to 20hz. all that mess below 300 is the room.

Still not a great TV speaker, they need to get loud to sound great. But for critical listening they're my new standard.

(see post history for build pics)

Build Expectations:
This speaker will be used for dual purpose 70%music and 30%movies. Hence this speaker has to be floor standing and somewhat short enough to be placed under projected screen. Considering speaker's close proximity with floor and side walls, I went with a very narrow dispersion Eminence WG-10 waveguide (H x V): 70 x 60. This leads to a very narrow sweet spot at MLP which is fine in my case since I will be the only one using the system.

Box Design:
Speakers being close to floor and placed aside media cabinet I went with a modest Fb of 54hz and f6 of 46hz, not aiming for sub bass region this resulted in 45ltr box volume and dual 3" inch ports. Going with dual port allowed for increased max SPL out at mid bass region. The box was intended to only house the woofer. The waveguide is mounted on top. The waveguide dimensions dictated a 10" woofer to maintain directivity and before woofer starts beaming.

Speaker Build:
To keep cost down, the speaker was built using 18mm MR plywood. Panels, bracing and speaker holes(CNC) was cut by local carpentry shop. I assembled and finished speaker cabinet with matt white paint finish. CNC cut ensured precise flush mounting of woofer.

Box Tuning:
Back of driver and first half of the cabinet is lined with polyfill until internal resonance was not pronounced in impedance response measurements. Stuffing the box pushed the Fb slightly lower to 50hz. Minor alignment gain.

Crossover:
I wanted to crossover as low as possible to maintain directivity down to 1khz thereby reducing first reflection. Plan was to do my own crossover using FR and IR graphs but I went with a text book crossover. Due to few reasons , it was readily available as prebuilt board by eminence at 1.6khz and cost of prebuilt was much lower than what could have been assembled. Also, I would be driving the drivers at maximum of couple watts, this left with a lot of headroom to do EQ hence I did not bother shaping anechoic response of the speaker with crossover components. The crossover is supported by a fixed L pad for attenuating 12db and variable L pad to fine tune as per liking.

How does it sound:
Clean sounding with substantial output, great imaging and instrument separation during music sessions. Bass is adequate for my room, however a subwoofer augmentation could support low volume listening. Speakers has no overhang with a very good transient response. For movies, dialogue and voice clarity is impressive even when a centre channel is not present. Pro audio drivers delivers high dynamics and low distortion so panning and scenes with lots of motion/action feels life like. Climax scene from the movie "A quiet place part 1" scared the hell out of me.

What could be improved?
Subwoofer could improve low volume listening sessions. Overall presentation feels slightly midrange forward which sometimes drowns the instruments presence. Apart from that I am happy with output for the cost and time that I have invested on this project.

All in all it was a very fun and rewarding project. Build pics attached. Side note, though drivers are branded as Eminence, these drivers was produced and designed by B&C post acquisition.

KEF CS7

Hey yall,

I recently got into this rabbit hole and I'm now in the process of designing my own set of two-way speakers.

I picked the Dayton Audio TCP115-4 woofer and the Dayton Audio ND25TA-4 dome tweeter, mostly because of my relatively low budget.

While designing the crossover I noticed the tweeter shows some strange behaviour between 10k and 20k. Is this something I should be concerned about or is this easily compensated for using DSP?

Little excerpt of me playing my chaotic pointcloud system, in which the particles are being audioreactive to the incoming audio signal in real-time. What do you guys think?

Full video at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UFSy6N3HU1U

Project files accessible through Patreon, or the Studio.

Downd mind the mes i just muved

It’s more a sound system question, but since it is self built, I am hoping the DIY Audio community might have some good insights as well.

Drag the box size, tuning and power, hit play, and push it past Xmax to hear it fall apart (headphones help)

I need a "gut check" from the experts here. I pulled the amplifier ("brains") from a keyboard amp to mess with, and the thought occurred to me: Is it ok to power on a solid-state amp with no speaker load? I know this is a very dangerous no-no with tube amps, but I've never thought about solid state amps.

I know you can take your average off-the-shelf Peavy power amp and turn it on without a speaker plugged in and it will happily sit there and do nothing, so I assume it's ok, but better safe than sorry!

Hi,

I’ve always been curious about the actual acoustic transfer functions of stethoscopes versus the marketing claims, so I put together a DIY acoustic test bench to run some frequency response measurements.

The Setup & Methodology:

(Attach your measurement graphs here)

Graphs & Traces:

Acoustic Observations & Takeaways:

Questions for the acoustics & audio folks:

Appreciate any insights or critiques on the methodology!