I'm Sorry if I'm being daft.

we got a skoda 2nd hand. The left hand passenger window doesn't work (nothing, no motor sound) & the cigarette lighter doesn't work. My first thought was fuses.

I've looked at manual & the diagram in the car but they don't match the actual fuses, the smaller fuses are on the right in the car but the guide is on the left -

Do I flip the diagram upside down or treat it as a mirror image?

We have a lovely mechanic, but there's a long list of things before the car can go in (we need a new cooker, 3x family birthdays & Christmas coming up), anything I can fix myself would be fantastic.

Edit: or do you look at them as two separate diagrams?

Thank you in advance xx

I have a 1987 Volvo 740 with a B230F engine. When I rev the engine, the RPM drops below normal idle speed, and it almost stalls before recovering. The spark plugs were replaced 8 months ago with original Volvo plugs.
Does anyone know what could be causing this or what I should check first?

Apologies for lack of details as I’m asking about a friend’s car. They took it to a shop and were told that there is a transmission leak, but when left parked in the garage no spills show on the floor. What would you do if you were told your transmission is leaking but saw no evidence? Is it safe to drive?

For context my city has terrible potholes and I noticed this when I filling my tires today. I rely on my car to commute to work and school I’m a broke college student living paycheck to paycheck with $40 to my name until next Friday. I can’t afford a new tire + installation…help🥲

Restoring a 1999 Toyota Cami Vehicle: 1999 Toyota Cami, engine: HC-EJ. I ran into a bit of trouble: I didn't make it across a river and ended up in a hole. The engine stalled. I’ve dried the vehicle out; there’s no water in the engine, and the electronics (ECU, control modules, fuses) are all intact—except for the fact that there’s no spark in the cylinders. Has anyone else dealt with a situation like this, where the spark was lost? If so, how did you resolve it?

I bought an 03 altima for $800 about 3 months ago. I have only driven it for around a month. One thing after another with this car. It had an evap leak so it reeks of gas. It's a manual btw. It has a oil leak. The wheel locked up on me and it could not turn the key no matter how I moved the wheel so I stuck a screwdriver in the igntion qnd tapped the end with a hammer. By tap I mean smacked the shit out of it. Had to get a new ignition switch. It wad fine for around a month. Then last month it just died on me at a light. It wouldn't turn over at all. I had my wife push me in her jeep to a parking spot. It sat for 3 weeks and I finally decided to scrap it. I had a tow truck 10 minutes from picking it up and I decided to try to start it again. It started after tried for 2 minutes. A bunch of smelly smoke came out of the exhaust. It ran fine for 3 days and then it stopped again. It cranks but doesn't turn over. Last night I checked all my spark plugs, one was dirtier than the rest but they weren't super clean or oily like I had a blown head gasket. I hooked jumper cables up to it and it started up immediately so I figured it was the battery. But when I went to work this morning it wouldn't start. I tried the cables again to no avail. Could it be a crankshaft position sensor? The only codes are an evap leak and a random misfire.. all the research i did led me to believe i had a blown head gasket. So I got some blue devil and it stopped over heating. Im at a lost as what to do but I need to get it fixed asap

I can’t find the correct replacement for a power steering reservoir cap for a Pontiac vibe 2005. Would love some help!

Hi, I have a 2011 Toyota Aygo. I’m trying to program a key fob so I can use it to lock and unlock the doors, but so far I haven’t had any success. Does anyone here have experience with this?

The instructions I’m using come from a forum. maybe iam doing something wrong

[https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/tutorials/article/53-reprogramming-2009-2013-aygo-central-locking-key-buttons/?fbclid=IwY2xjawVGwJJleHRuA2FlbQIxMABwZG9mAWJyaWQRME81YmF6MmRjcWV5OWhYQWlzcnRjBmFwcF9pZBAyMjIwMzkxNzg4MjAwODkyAAEecoXtL0MxgFvL96CIs7gbhsMaeFERerHkcKhk-QkjOE62Wfu6Tq8Y3-w1tbU\\_aem\\_zoPuBDaNYXFN\\_vmt7QYtIQ\](https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/tutorials/article/53-reprogramming-2009-2013-aygo-central-locking-key-buttons/?fbclid=IwY2xjawVGwJJleHRuA2FlbQIxMABwZG9mAWJyaWQRME81YmF6MmRjcWV5OWhYQWlzcnRjBmFwcF9pZBAyMjIwMzkxNzg4MjAwODkyAAEecoXtL0MxgFvL96CIs7gbhsMaeFERerHkcKhk-QkjOE62Wfu6Tq8Y3-w1tbU_aem_zoPuBDaNYXFN_vmt7QYtIQ)

[https://www.amazon.nl/dp/B07JKXKW8Z?ref=ppx\\_yo2ov\\_dt\\_b\\_fed\\_asin\\_title&fbclid=IwY2xjawVGwJxleHRuA2FlbQIxMABwZG9mAWJyaWQRME81YmF6MmRjcWV5OWhYQWlzcnRjBmFwcF9pZBAyMjIwMzkxNzg4MjAwODkyAAEenB7cjAk6cfbO\\_PwFq-GccZcUz5sNJSR7-Itxowg4Zhg7rULQDXpa63J7c0Y\\_aem\\_VNtoKefe5J0505pd2VgT6A\](https://www.amazon.nl/dp/B07JKXKW8Z?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&fbclid=IwY2xjawVGwJxleHRuA2FlbQIxMABwZG9mAWJyaWQRME81YmF6MmRjcWV5OWhYQWlzcnRjBmFwcF9pZBAyMjIwMzkxNzg4MjAwODkyAAEenB7cjAk6cfbO_PwFq-GccZcUz5sNJSR7-Itxowg4Zhg7rULQDXpa63J7c0Y_aem_VNtoKefe5J0505pd2VgT6A)

Recently rebuilt a 2017 Civic Si that had been in an accident with airbag deployment and needed an SRS module reset. I got the module back and was able to clear all SRS codes but now have a U0416-68 code for VSA malfunction alongside U3000-54 and C0051-54 code. One of those is for a steering neutral relearn and the other, a VSA calibration issue. All of these codes seem to have something to do with a bad VSA system, but driving the car hasn’t done anything like I’ve seen reported. I have a TopDon AD900lite scanner capable of doing the “All Sensor” reset to clear the VSA but it will not complete the test without saying “Wrong Condition”. I have the ignition on, wheel straight, foot off brake…all of the things to perform the test and it will not work. Do I invest in Hondas I HDS software and try that? Get a different scanner? Am I missing something really simple? I am stumped! Any help is greatly appreciated.

Восстановление Cami 1999

Машина: Toyota Cami 1999, мотор HC EJ
Есть некая проблема, не проехал через реку, попал в яму. Машина заглохла.
Машину просушил, в двигателе воды нет, электроника целая (эбу, блоки, предохранители) за исключением искры в цилиндрах.
Кто был в такой ситуации, по пропаданию искры, подскажите как вы исправляли данную ситуацию.

Hey, this is my first time posting here.

I just got my car back from being in the shop for a few weeks for an accident the messed up my tire rod, now every time I reach speeds of over around 50mph I can both feel & hear humming under my feet. The car handles fine otherwise, everything is fine, I just wanted to make sure this is normal/safe to drive? Or if I need to take it back for this

I have a 1999 Honda Accord that is giving me grief. Originally thought the issue was the ignition switch replaced it still won’t start. The fuel pump, air intake, engine pressure and spark plugs are all working and in good shape. It is leaking oil and needs a new valve cover I noticed, but it has oil still. I want to say it may be the crack shaft sensor, but conveniently the car will not connect to a OBD 2 Scanner and give any codes. Now leading up to the no start the engine was running loud and the acceleration was sluggish and would some times sputter and sometimes the car would just stall or shut off completely while driving that paired with the fact half my center console controls stopped working I believed it was the ignition switch which were famously faulty on that model, but installed a brand new ignition switch and nothing. Anyone got any clues of what it might be or how to get a proper diagnosis?