Got a Polaroid photo stuck in the steering wheel part… had no idea it was that deep, does anyone know a good way to fish it out maybe?

Hello, I'm a guy who's not great with car things. But my "service engine soon" light came on, and there's this dark black stuff leaking from this area. It's probably oil, but i've heard there are other things that look like oil, but aren't, I guess. And the guys who did my oil change semed to think it was transmission fluid. But I don't know. All I know is that this part is wet, and it probably shouldn't be. Any advice or clues?

I'm not sure what this is, but i'm hoping it's minor so that way I can fix this. I'm really hoping it's not an expensive repair. But I also love this car, and I don't want it to quit on me. I tried to take pictures of where it was damp, but I couldn't quite get a good angle. Sorry if that makes it harder to identify

I tried replacing the cabin filter but it didn’t work. I’m still getting faint cold/hot air when I crank it but it’s not even blowing just the air around it feels colder or hotter if I turn it up. is there anything else I can try?

What causes this noise?

Super prominent after first starting the car. Still not sure what causes it.

My car has trouble starting i tested the voltage which came to 12,31V. It does however start it just takes about 5 - 8 seconds.

So i found out you can check the battery's health via a green lens as shown. The problem i am having is concluding what this result means. What confuses me is that there looks to be a green ball below the white, and inside the white colour is a little green dot.

Another day, another question about the issues with the project car :D

To try and simplify the behaviour: when the car is cold and it starts, it runs and RPMs normally; the RPM is a bit over 1000, I assume it's some kind of cold-start mechanism.

Once the engine is warm, it has trouble maintaining the idle. When I'm stopped and the car is in neutral / or I'm holding the clutch down, the RPM starts dropping as if it's about to stall, then it catches itself and goes back up. After that, it starts oscillating up and down.

In the video, I'm not touching the throttle at first. You can see the RPM drop, recover, and then fluctuate. Near the end, I give it some throttle, and when I let off, the RPM drops all the way to zero and the engine stalls.

It seems to happen mainly/only when the engine is warm. If I keep giving it a little throttle, I can keep it running, but it's happening more often recently, and it's very hard to keep it from shutting down every 30 seconds in high-traffic situations. Until a few weeks ago, it would lose RPM but not turn off, and it would pick up the RPMs and even stabilize itself occasionally.

I would appreciate any pointers on where to look or what to look for.

I’ve been hearing this sound lately and I just want to know what part it could be making the sound so I can get it replaced before the problem becomes expensive.

I’ve been hearing this sound lately and I just want to know what part it could be making the sound so I can get it replaced before the problem becomes expensive.

2012 Ford Econoline 250 Van. 4.6L V8.

Originally thought it was the U-Joints grinding to bone on the driveshaft, since those looked terrible. However, I had those replaced, and this washing machine sound continues on....

Thanks!

Theres this weird clicking sound that starts when I drive above like a certain speed and it kinda stops when I brake but starts up again but I also hear it while in neutral so I’m not sure what it is. The car has less than 70k miles so I don’t know what issues could already be showing up

post-static object or .. two.. vibration and rapid ticking sound under hood, engine is shaking. It’s audible with ac low and pretty loud with hood up. Saw vibration was also going down black pump so I took a look behind wheel on that side. I’d already removed splash guard and damaged hanging right fender well here. I’m seeing a shop asap and I feel like my suspension is fucked but I know there’s some other issues too since the curb and popped tire a month ago for me. this clicking and vibrating under hood while idle for one. loss of tension/feeling of consistency in wheel (all tension gave out the moment my tire popped, it was really scary, unsure if normal) tension was like 60-70% restored immediately after full-size spare put on, but now it feels so weird, not sturdy or smooth, but like, micro-jerky. like it only feels tense in some places now. side where I got the spare actually locked up on me during a tight right turn and made a loud traction sound which was my main motive for seeing someone. I feel like there’s a new split second of hesitancy every now and then when I accelerate or shift, and once when I accidentally shifted into N during traffic, I went right back into drive and it like buffered still momentarily, would not let me go forward… kind of like the issue specific to my right turns. unsure if that’s normal but I don’t think neutral should put up that kind of fight for several seconds yeah? Noticed missing 2/4 of my air filter box clips too, two of them are not secured anymore

None of the above was the case before the damage came to a head that night. i think something I’m seeing here is not right in terms of structure but I lack the technical knowledge to gauge the severity . I could be completely wrong about the images being abnormal, just enjoy learning about cars too. I still wouldn’t be surprised if something were a major issue atp. blows cold but maybe that’s just cuz shir hasn’t hit the fan yet no pun intended. No warning lights.

i have a q50 hybrid and i’m trying to start the car but doesn’t, it says i don’t have the key but i have it with me, my shift is locked in park

doesn’t start
says no key is near
locked in park doesn’t press fully down in the shift knob

please help me yall

For the past month, my car coolant will go all the way to see while running. It’ll say steering assist disabled and then it’ll sound like a humming loud noise usually the AC stops working and when I turn the car off, it takes forever for the humming sound to stop.

I’ve taken it into a few different places because it keeps throwing different signals. It’ll say my engine and then it’ll go off and then it’ll say something else every diagnostic place I’ve taken it to says something different. O’Reillys says it’s fine when the code randomly goes off but when it’s back on, it’s always a different issue.

I’m a female and worry about taking it to a car shop because I have very limited knowledge about cars. It has about 106,000 miles on it and has no property or Prior collision damage. Does anyone have any idea what could be the root of the issue? I’m beginning to wonder if it’s a wiring issue or something bigger.

So my 2007 Mazda 3 Sedan recently started having a creaking sound on the back left when I brake, what could that be? 172,000 miles

Thank you

Whenever I start up my car first thing in the morning it sounds almost like a vacuum cleaner (video attached). I was thinking it might be my serpentine belt that needs to be replaced, but I was hoping to get a second opinion if I could. It ONLY makes this sound whenever it's the first time I start it in the morning though, and it only lasts a couple minutes.

So I’m happy with my car. Audio is very good and I mostly use CD but I occasionally use the AUX and Bluetooth. One thing I’ve noticed about the aux use is that the EQ does not work properly. If I change one frequency and then try to change another, it completely neglects the frequency I just changed, meaning I can only change one frequency at a time or it reverts the frequency back to 0. Same thing for my volume. If I changed the frequency and then turn up/down the volume, the EQ just goes back to default.

Now for the Bluetooth. I understand this is an older car and it would also have older technology. The only thing about the Bluetooth is that it has this bit crush like sound in higher frequencies with cymbals and other higher tones. It just sounds slightly crushed and it bothers me as an audio freak. Is there a mod I can do that replaces the Bluetooth this car has or any other fix? I understand if nothing can be done.

Thank you for the help.

It doesn’t affect the driving or anything and can only be heard when the engine is turned off, i believe it’s coming from the rear of the car too.

I've noticed the rear floor vents under the front seats in my model Y sit really close to the carpet. With the flexible liners I have now, the rear section can shift backward a little or lift near the edge, and it looks like it gets pretty close to the vent opening. On longer summer drives with people in the back, I've started wondering whether it's affecting airflow. I've tried repositioning the mat and checking around the seat rails, but there's not much extra room under there. For other Model Y owners, have you run into this with rear floor liners? Is a lower sidewall around the vent area usually better, or do the more rigid custom-fit liners stay in place well enough that they don't creep toward the vents? Mostly trying to find something that protects the carpet without creating another problem under the seats.

Im able to roll up the window if i hold the button. If i dont the window goes back down. Im taking my car to the dealer to get an oil change soon and im going to tell them about it. About how much is it going to cost to fix?

So i got a 2012 hyundai elantra about 220k km on it. Just yesterday the reverse starting acting up and now it stopped reversing, if i leave the car alone for a while and come back it might work a bit, also sometimes when i drive a little forward and try backing up it works a bit. Im hearing a lot of things that it could be a minor issue and that it could also be an expensive replacement for the transmission. Im not really knowledgable with cars, however i was at the mechanic and i left my car there because he said he would get it checked. He said something about the oil being bad or something like that. If anyone has any experience with this type of situation, please lmk anything that could help.

Buenas noches a todos, tengo un problema con mi Mazda 2 automático ya le cambie los coil y en carro sigue ascilando y al acelerar responde retrasado los codigos que me aparece en la computadora son U0401, P0123, P0222 y P2135 porfavor quien conozca me pueds ayudar

I’m currently renting a Nissan Qashqai J12 2026 model, traversing Northern Europe. I’m quite far from any larger city/town, and while driving around the countryside just now, I got an “e-Power failure” message, and the car shut down its electrical systems and went into “turtle mode”, limiting speed to 45kph. The battery indicator showed that it was only at ~20% power.

I was able to drive back to where we are lodging at the moment, let the car alone for ~30 minutes while trying to google for what might be wrong, which has started to worry me quite a bit, because it seems this is a critical failure that needs attention.

However, after starting the car 30 minutes later, the failure messages did not return and all warning lights are back to normal. Some of the Google search results suggest however that even if the failures have gone away, I shouldn’t continue to drive the car - other sources suggest this is exactly how to try and mitigate this issue - the old “have your turned it off and on again”.

Any suggestions/advice on what to do? Finding roadside assistance here will be really challenging, but I’m worried that the problem will suddenly come back which might be an even bigger headache.

I was really confused about why I couldn’t just keep using the gas-powered engine at normal power levels, but I guess that’s not the kind of hybrid the Qashqai is…

As the title says, steering wheel locked up the other night. Tried to wiggle it for hours before and while waiting for AAA. Tried to jump it also.

The key is pretty worn out, and that’s my theory as to the problem.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!