Hi everyone, could you explain why some people have told me that this dovetail marker is bad and inaccurate? They said there’s a high chance of making mistakes when using it. Could you explain why that might be the case?

Hello, I don't know if this is the right community for this kind of post, if it is not let me know and I will take it down. Help is also appreciated on a direction to where a question like this would fit best.

I want to give a gift to a group of kids: each summer we have a competition and one group wins, this has been going on for a bunch of years, and as kids are, they are very competitive. I wanted there to be a sort of wooden board of every year’s winner, in such a way to make them proud of winning and so that there is a sort of history of the competition with all years' winners. Basically in my mind it has this shape.

I really have neither the competence nor the tools and space to make the thing myself and I wanted it to look somewhat cool. So basically I want to go to a professional woodworker and commission the thing, but I’m really stressing about the interaction with the shop owner, I wanted to know a couple of things beforehand to smooth it out:

• Is it common for woodworkers to do these kinds of things? Do I expect for a random woodworking shop in my city to be able to do those kinds of things or do I have to search for a specialty person?
• How much would I expect a thing like this to cost? Roughly, I do not expect an exact number, just something general. My budget is a bit tight.
• How you might have seen my plans on this thing are very rough, (and as a consequence I am obviously not picky about the result) should I get a better idea of what I want before going?

Thank you for all the help, I am not an english native, if something is not clear I am happy to elaborate more.

Pic from UK store, but I'm from Poland. It's 600PLN here, I'm already not happt with the tool expenses, but if I manage to cut precise elements and successfully manage to restore a set of old wooden doors, I'll save at least 3x as much as I invested in the tools.

This may be one just for aussies as Triton is an aussie brand.

Basically this system allows you to mount your circ saw upside down and convert it into a table saw.

Will this system be accurate enough for cabinetry, or am I still better off going down my dedicated table/track saw quandary?

More over one other question: what IS the most "accurate" saw system?

Track, Table or sliding Mitre/Drop saw?

I have a circular and sliding mitre saw.

And no, I don't even have space for a single car garage setup. My whole usable (outdoor) space is 5x3m

I’m hoping I didn’t just completely ruin this table that I’m working with. I sanded it and the grain was definitely more prominent than it is now but I have been trying to fix the silly holes in the table. I hope it still looks okay :/

I’m a complete beginner who plans to finish an unfinished Ikea pine bed frame (the Tarva bed frame - see attached photo).

My goals with finishing it are: 1) to protect the wood; and 2) to make the wood slightly warmer and darker. I’m shooting for a light oak color (see pics of cabinets for the general idea).

I’ve been reading A LOT about pine finishing, and what I’ve gleaned so far is: 1) staining pine is tricky, and I don’t need to stain it to get the little bit of color change I’m after; and 2) the pine will continue darken over time regardless of what I use. So I’d like to add just a little color and warmth now, anticipating that it will darken further.

The two options that I read about that sounded the most promising are using boiled linseed oil and using an amber or blonde shellac.

I’d love to hear what you think about these two options in terms of both outcomes and ease of use. One question I have is the amount of sanding. My understanding is that no matter what finish I use, I’ll need to sand before I start. But with BLO or shellac, do I need to sand between every coat? And how many coats would I need for these two approaches?

Also, for these two approaches, would I need to apply an additional product for protection? Since it’s a bed frame there won’t be issues with liquids, I was hoping just the BLO or shellac would be sufficient.

I’d also love it if you have suggestions you think would work better than these two approaches. Anything that would reduce the amount of work, and the amount of skill needed, is a big plus. Thanks!

hi i am looking for some advice on how to join this, pine legs to the rest of this skeleton , i tried this little wooden knobs at first, but they suck this screw anchors i think it's their name.
i was thinking on metalic L type corners but idk also, idk what to do for railing once the bed is done

Please excuse my poor drawing but it shows the jist of what I am building. Being new to wood working I am not sure how to find the best angle to cut the 2 X 4's I will be using to brace the legs. Id also appreciate suggests on how long the braces should be.

I was thinking of filling the crack with some type of putty then sanding it down

I just built my first crosscut sled for my compact job site style saw.

I used birch plywood to make the entire sled. I used paste finishing wax on the bottom to allow the sled and rails to glide smoothly on the table saw surface.

What do I do for the rest of the sled though (top and sides)?

Should I leave it raw? Or should I apply something like Watco Danish Oil or Boiled Linseed Oil? Or perhaps something else?

If it matters, the table saw has a coated cast aluminum top.

Thanks in advance!

Edit:
Reason for considering not leaving it raw is because I have foggy, coastal damp weather with the sun popping out mid day. So simply considering the wood reacting to weather changes.

I've been woodworking as a hobbiest for about 10 years now, but I've only ever used inexpensive softwoods. I got a box of assorted hardwood scraps of decent sizes pretty cheap.

I don't know what most of these are. Any help?

First time using Cauls… am I doing it correctly?

This is my second woodworking project that I have done. I messed up a little bit somewhere between either the jointer or the table saw because there is a slight Gap in the seams but otherwise I think it turned out pretty good. I used Maple and purple heart and finish it off with a few coats of tung oil with a couple key holes in the back for hanging. And yes I know one of them is a little crooked my Milwaukee router edge guide came loose which has been an ongoing frustration with that router.

I am just looking to get some feedback / criticism or advice for the next time thank you in advance.

I received about 500 linear feet of this stuff about 20x 11’ boards I’m resurfacing the tops for another deck. Also 50-60 smaller ones around 3-4’.

I’m considering using some of those for some basic projects like a shelf, end grain cutting board if they glue together, maybe coasters. I have a rectangular 2” square metal frame coffee table I wouldn’t mind upgrading from the tempered glass on as well - just ideas at this point!

I know this wood is exceptionally hard. Photos with and without mineral oil after I did a test sand quick from 150 straight to 400. Reddish orange saw dust. I think it’s Jatoba hope it’s ipe but it’s really more red than dark. Thanks yall.

Deal too good not to pass. On marketplace for $45. Got a few ideas to put this to use. Any idea on the wood type? Initially I thought birch but my eye for ID is very untrained. Thanks in advance!

Routed out the roads on 3/4 ply with a straight bit and built the buildings out of leftover scrap that I have a problem throwing away because one day I might need it, and it turns out I did. Blondewood and lauan wood, still working on it daily. The pavement is actually chalkboard paint to give the road a bumpy feeling

Looking for advice on how to fix these scratches, stains and nicks. Dont know anything. Thanks for any info!

I have four 12" x 32" shelves I made out of Lowe's Havea Butcher Block. I sanded them from 120 to 400 grit, and I applied a coat of oil-based wood conditioner before applying three coats of oil-based Minwax wood stain. The Havea isn't taking up the stain well at all, and the color is MUCH paler than what is on the cabinets. The color looks good out of the can, but the wood just doesn't seem to want to take up the stain hardly at all.

Also, I noticed that overnight, some of the stain seeped out of the grain of the wood, leaving some pin-sized blotches. Can I sand these off with 400-grit? I'm not sure how best to remove them.

Amateur woodworker here, remodeling bathroom and did a live edge window sill with spalted maple. Last screw I accidentally shot through the top (toenailing from bottom). Super upset with myself as I was excited for this piece and will take any recommendations for fixing it. I have no epoxy experience either.

This is my first commissioned piece and I just finished this today. A client/friend had asked me to build this for him and his wife after seeing someone on marketplace offering some cheaper pine butt-joint versions for very cheap.

The whole process was really great as I got the opportunity to explain different species of wood and the different joinery/finish options with them. I was actually surprised at how much I’ve absorbed over the past year.

I did have a pretty big mishap during the build though. Somehow (tired brain after a long day) I messed up my layout and cut my mitres two inches too short for the top panel (which means it wouldn’t span their ottoman) I felt my chest get really heavy when I realized what I had done. I had a talk with them (they were incredibly understanding, I was more upset than they were) and ended up picking up a new board to work with. It ended up being a pretty happy accident as the figure in the replacement was even nicer than the original.

In the end the mitres were joined with some dominos (this project gave to excuse to finally buy a domino). I hand shaped all of the round overs, recessed some threaded inserts and levelling feet and finished with Rubio Pure and N3 Nano.

Hello this is nothing special but I painted my son's bedroom furniture because it was looking pretty rough (we got it at an estate sale a few years ago and it wasn't in great condition to begin with) but anyway my son is 12 and I'm wondering if I should add some kind of clear coat to protect it from things like water? I know he's a kid so he's not going to keep it in perfect condition but I've read some conflicting things online so would like some advice on this and if there's a recommendation of what I should get? Thanks!

I'm going to be starting my first project soon and I'm in need of a reliable place to buy a turning blank from.

I'm planning on proposing in January and would like to make a ring box out of sugar maple. Any other advice is welcome :)

Ideas for a lock mechanism are welcome, thank you.