r/woodworking • u/canondrums • 14h ago
General Discussion Magnificent cabinets from 18th century
811
Upvotes
Some pretty incredible handmade cabinets I’ve encountered in a museum in Fribourg, Switzerland.
r/woodworking • u/theclafinn • 15h ago
Project Submission Traditional(ish) Finnish dough pail (staved bucket with lid)
222
Upvotes
TL;DR
I made a traditional(ish) Finnish dough pail i.e. a staved bucket with lid. It's made out of Eurasian aspen (Populus tremula) and finished on the outside with 100% tung oil. The staves have small dowels in between them to help keep them aligned, as do the boards that make up the bottom. The hoops are stainless steel. No glue was used to assemble the pail, as that would hinder wood movement and increase the risk of cracking. I also had to make a lot of the tools and jigs, such as a 3D printed croze plane.
Disclaimer
This is the story of a beginner woodworker muddling through an ambitious project. I am not an expert at woodworking, or staved buckets. Take everything I say with a grain of salt.
Background
A couple of years ago I bough a dough pail for making traditional Finnish rye bread, and used it with great success (as in the bread was amazing) for about a year. The point of a dough pail is to house the bacteria and yeasts that ferment the dough, give it it's distinctive taste and make it rise. After baking the pail is allowed to dry, so that the microbes on and in its walls go dormant. When you want to bake again you simply put water and flour into the pail, causing the microbes to wake up and get to work. This results in extreme wet dry cycles for the pail, especially in modern Finnish houses where the air tends to be quite dry. The pail I had bought couldn't handle these conditions and developed bigger and bigger cracks with each use.
Diagnosing the problem
I wrote about my cracking dough pail and what could be the cause in this thread: How to make a staved bucket that can tolerate wet dry cycles?. In the end I came to the conclusion that the most likely cause is that the staves on the bucket are glued together, which inhibits wood movement.
Looking for information
My primary source for information was a book by Toivo Malkama: Koti- ja maataloudellisia käsityöpiirustuksia työohjeineen (roughly translates to: Domestic and agricultural handicraft drawings with instructions), printed in 1948. Unfortunately, that one is unlikely to be available to most people here. I also watched many youtube videos, and these two are the ones I found most helpful: Making a bucket completely from wood – without glue or metal by Andi's workshop, and Traditional Cooper - George Smithwick - History and how to make a wooden bucket by Museums of History NSW.
Choosing the wood
As I was making a traditional Finnish dough pail, I wanted to stick to traditional Finnish wood as the material. Old wisdom says that juniper (Juniperus communis) is the best wood for staved containers. It has fine grain, it's tough, moves little with changes in moisture, and as a bonus it smells amazing. Unfortunately in Finland it rarely grows large enough for the size of pail I was making, and it isn't commercially available really at all, so juniper was a no go.
The next best (and probably most used) material is spruce (Picea abies), however, my sources also specified that it needed to be slow grown "korpikuusi", which may mean either a spruce that has grown in the wilderness or on swampy land, I'm not sure which. In any case, most spruce one can buy has grown in managed forests where it grows rather quickly. Spruce also tends to be quite knotty, which is bad for a bucket.
The third most preferred option seemed to be aspen (Populus tremula). That I could find easily, it's naturally very low on knots, and the mill I bought it from said theirs was air dried ouside for two years, which might be beneficial for the durability of the bucket (bugs are not much of a problem in Finland, due to the cold climate I guess, so kiln drying isn't a must). That is what I went with.
Designing the pail
I did like the dimensions of the bucket I had bought, so I followed them quite closely: about 20 cm high to the brim (8"), 33 cm diameter at the brim (13"), 9 degree slant on the side, with an internal volume of about 9 liters (2.4 US gal). This is small for a dough pail. Old pails tended to be much bigger as rye bread was a staple food and even a small family ate a lot of it.
I used 3D CAD to model the pail. That way I could just measure the angles of the staves and also design jigs and tools to fit them. I like math but doing trigonometry in 3 dimensions is a PITA. The bucket has 12 staves, two of which are longer to form the handles.
The thing that had me scratching my head the most was the joint between the sides of the pail and the bottom. I found it very hard to find exact information on how it should be made. The second video I linked to earlier was helpful, but I decided to go more with the instructions in the book by Toivo Malkama, as they were reasonably clear. I drew a picture to show the basic idea and proportions of the joint. The top edge of the bottom is beveled so that the very edge is the same thickness as the width of the croze, and then it gets thicker towards the middle, though only by a millimiter or so. Pushing the bottom into the croze creates an interference fit. The diameter of the bottom is maybe 2 mm less than the diameter measured at the bottom of the croze, leaving a little room for the bottom to expand.
Grain direction of the staves was another thing that gave me pause. Most sources were rather vague about it, but I got the impression that radial sawn staves are ideal, and if you can't have that, you should orient them so that the heartwood side of the stave is on the outside of the bucket. That way the staves hold their shape the best.
For the hoops I decided to go with stainless steel. Wooden hoops would be the traditional thing, but that would require being able to go to a forest to select exactly the right kind of young trees or brances to make the hoops. I don't have the skill, or the access, or the time, plus I kind of like the more sleek look of the steel hoops. A friend was nice enough to cut the hoops on a water jet cutter, so I could skip the part about hammering a straight strip of steel into the correct shape. All I had to do was to bend them into circles and rivet them. The lowest hoop needs to be at the height of the bottom and wide enough to span the whole thickness of the bottom (or the width of the croze). That way it's best equiped to resist the force than comes from the bottom as it expands and pushes against the sides of the pail.
The lid is a simple glued panel. It is quite thin, though, so it needed cross bars to make it stronger. The grain on the cross bars runs perpendicular to the grain on the panel, so the joint cannot be glued. It needs to allow wood movement. A sliding dovetail is the traditonal way to join them, and that's what I used.
Tools and jigs
I do my woodworking at a class where I have access to a fairly nice selection of woodworking machines, however, there were several tools and jigs that I had to design and make (or have made). All 3d printing was done by a friend of mine, from my designs. 3d printing helped save my limited woodworking hours for doing the actual pail.
Angle guides: 3d printed angle guides for setting the table saw blade at the correct angle, one for cutting the ends of the staves and another for cutting the sides of the staves.
Table saw jig for cutting the staves: a piece of plywood with two 3d printed pieces for positioning the stave, one for each side of the stave, and a toggle clamp to hold the stave in place.
End holders for staves: since I chose to cut the ends of the staves at a angle fom the start I needed little pieces to help compensate for the angle when clamping the staves in place for planing them. These were 3d printed in PLA, which in retrospect wasn't the best material. Both of them cracked, but fortunately only after fulfilling their purpose.
Drilling jigs: there are two dowels in each joint of the staves and they needed holes drilled perpendicular to the side of the stave, which is not perpendicular to the face of the stave, which made using a drill press difficult. I designed 3d printed guides that fit over the sides of the staves, so that I could drill the holes with a hand drill. The guide holes have brass tubes glued into them to make them more durable.
Plane for the convex side of the staves: shaping the concave inside face of the staves required a special plane. I could not find a suitable one available to buy, so I got a Veritas scrub plane iron (which has a curved edge) and designed a basic body for it, which was then 3d printed by my friend. It was made out of black CF-ASA, which turned out not to be the best material. It did provide excellent dimensional accuracy, but it also had a rough surface that caused a lot of friction against the wood, making planing rather laborious. The body shape was not ergonomic at all, and my hands were pretty sore after I was done with the planing. It aso left black marks on the wood, but they fortunately came off with sanding.
Coze plane: probably the most interesting of the tools was the plane for making the croze i.e. the groove for the bottom to fit into. It was also the most difficult to design and required three iterations to turn out the way I wanted. The basic design I copied from the first video I linked earlier, but I made some changes to fit the size of my bucket an the size of the croze I wanted. It has two jigsaw blades, sharpened at the tip, that cut the sides of the groove, and a chisel that removes the material between the cuts. It was 3d printed in white GF-PETG, which was a much more suitable material than the CF-ASA used for the other plane. It wasn't effortless to use, but the end result was beautiful.
The actual process in a nut shell
- milling the planks to the correct cross section
- cutting the staves to length, I chose to cut them to the correct angle too, so that I would automatically get smooth top and bottom edge for the pail (trying to smooth it later looked difficult)
- sawing the edges of the stave to the correct angle and taper on a table saw
- drilling holes to the edges of the staves for the dowels
- planing the staves, convex on the outside, concave on the inside
- drilling the holes on the handles
- assembling the sides of the pail (no glue!) (I was able to use the hoops of my old pail to hold it in shape, so I could leave the actual hoops for later) and sanding it
- making the croze
- cutting the bottom boards (3 pc) to length and assembling with dowels (no glue)
- cutting the bottom to shape on a scroll saw, with the edge at the same angle as the sides of the pail and the bottom of the croze
- beveling the top edge of the bottom with a knife and sanding it
- putting the bottom in place
- shaping and riveting the hoops and putting them on the pail
- making the lid
- finishing the lid and the outside of the pail with 100% tung oil (not traditional at all, and I hope I don't come to regret it)
To be honest, almost all steps of the process required some trial and error, fixing mistakes, much sanding, and a lot of sweat and a little blood (the blades on the croze plane were indeed sharp).
Concluding remarks
This whole thing took me roughly 150 to 200 hours of work (could be more, I didn't keep count), not including the work done by my friends with the 3d printing and cutting the hoops, or the time doing research. In my opinion it wasn't nearly as difficult as some people seem to think, though I had lots of tools and aids at my disposal, which smoothed the way considerably.
The end result is pretty much all that I had hoped, though the coming months of use will be the true test if I succeeded.
In short, it was fun. 10/10 do recommend.
r/woodworking • u/AutoModerator • May 03 '26
🔍🪵 Wood ID | Megathread Wood ID Megathread
24
Upvotes
This megathread is for wood ID
- If possible, clean up the wood with a plane (or chisel for the end grain) so that we can see the grain clearly.
- Include a close-up picture of the end grain. Not blurry. End grain pore structure is one of the most useful bits of info for wood ID.
- Note any non-visual distinguishing characteristics. Does the wood feel particularly light or particularly dense? Does it have an odor when planed?
- 4Include multiple pictures or text info as sub-comments under a main picture, not as an avalanche of first-level comments.
r/woodworking • u/randomsantas • 9h ago
Project Submission My latest box.
178
Upvotes
Curly walnut and curly maple from irion. Simple glued together. Tried and true linseed oil and beeswax finish. It's tough to see anything but flaws in my own work.
r/woodworking • u/Zeke_Malvo • 5h ago
Power Tools Short review/opinions on the Kreg Edge
77
Upvotes
I purchased the Kreg Edge a couple of weeks ago. I am a former owner of a Festool Domino. I sold the Domino to a friend several years ago to a friend. At the time, I was preferring to build stuff with dowels because of their superior strength.
As for the Kreg Edge, all I can say is that I am absolutely impressed with it. But real quick, the negative draw backs:
Not as smooth as the Festool.
Initial set up was hit and miss.
Each mortise takes about 1-2 seconds longer to cut.
You have to tap out some minor dust afterwards 80% of the time (basically every time).
With dust extracting, it is very loud.
Battery charger has no provisions to wall mount
The initial set up was a little annoying. I thought I had it accurate but then follow up cuts would come out less than perfect. After a few cuts, I was able to dial it in, but it did take longer than I would have liked.
Having this in a cordless, I would not go back to corded. Festool has also been moving over all of their tools to battery powered, and with good reason.
Each mortise takes bit longer to cut, but I think that's mostly due to springs feeling heavier/less smooth than the Festool. For reference, Festool's new cordless domino spins at the same 18,500 RPM, which I have not used.
Battery longevity just aren't really a concern. I've cut 60 mortise's with half the battery life still remaining. Getting over 100 cut on one battery is very possible and completely past what I would do on a single sitting. At the 60 non-stop, there were no heating problems at all, it was barely a little warm.
Recently, I was cutting with a 4mm cutter into 1/2" (12mm) plywood. It 100% works the same as on the Festool, so I'm not sure why Kreg doesn't throw that in there in the advertising. Maybe its because you have to make some mental adjustments for the 10mm shorter cutter.
The Edge isn't very loud, but the underside cutouts really make the dust extracting loud. Kreg says the cutouts aid in getting more air circulating through, but I'm not sure that translates into more extracting. I do have to lightly tap (a single tap) the mortise to get some small amount of leftover dust out (see pic). Either that, or a quick vacuuming it out would do it too.
I found the machine to be super accurate. Absolutely zero complaints at all. The indexing tabs are accurate relative to each other, which is super important. It makes it super easy to just make mortises without bothering to mark anything. Just set and plunge. The mortises are super tight too. I do have to tap in the tenons with a small mallet to get them to seat in. Nothing crazy at all and is expected, just like any other dowel. The fence was super accurate and square as well (see pic).
I have both Kreg brand and Trend brand domino's. Having both, I prefer the Trend brand. The Kreg brand domino's are smooth, allowing easier install, but the Trend's have grooves allowing better gluing. Also, the 40mm (6mm x 40mm and 8mm x 40mm) Kreg brand tenons are really ~36mm in length, vs ~38.5mm for the Trend. With the cutter already cutting a pinch over their stated setting (~21.7mm real cut depth vs 20mm setting), the 36mm Kreg brand domino's leave too much room IMO. I don't know if that is a real-world problem tho, just my preference and opinion.
Additionally, I did purchase a plate (SpeTool on Amazon) for additional support. Its not necessary, but it definitely adds confidence when making the cuts. Online, many recommended a "Bigfoot" plate, but I couldn't find any. I will say, I am 100% happy with the SpeTool, which seems to be pretty much the same thing. It bolts on perfectly and the lines are accurate on it.
For dust extraction, I use a small DeWalt corded shop vac with a hepa filter. For storage of my tenons, I just use some basic storage containers from Amazon. They hold 100-300 tenons of each size, depending on the sizes. I split one of the storage spaces for the smaller tenons.
I think the Kreg Edge is fantastic and will be hard to top for any manufacturer, especially when you factor in the price, for the consumer market. Basically, if they do, then they will likely be exceeding Festool Domino's performance as well at that point. We'll just have to wait and see.
r/woodworking • u/iron_reampuff • 9h ago
Project Submission Guarding the garage, goblins Gerald and Gustaf form a garrison (repost)
141
Upvotes
Usually, goblins make do with whatever weaponry they can find — a jagged rock, a shiny butter knife, or a sharpened spoon. But these two are well armed with custom wooden spears, ready to defend the workbench from rogue spiders and stray salesman.
r/woodworking • u/birdhouse123467 • 7h ago
General Discussion First real hardwood project walnut watch box
88
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r/woodworking • u/bufftbone • 6h ago
Help New Router Bit Question
54
Upvotes
I just received my new Whiteside surfacing bit. It came with a little goopy coating on it for I’m assuming to protect the bit until it reaches the consumers hands. Is this something I should pick off beforehand of can I run the bit for the first time with it on? I’m pretty sure it’ll come off during usage but I want to make sure beforehand as to what I should do. Thanks.
r/woodworking • u/dleifm • 10h ago
Project Submission First Picture Frame… started small ;)
108
Upvotes
I’ve been wanting to try my hand at picture frames for a few years now but always got sidetracked by other types of projects.
A couple of months ago, the missus came back from an art exhibition raving about a large botanical drawing of a miner’s lettuce plant and how good it would look on the empty wall in our living room. It was drawn on a long piece of brown paper and had been shown in the gallery hanging from a single piece of wood.
I got in touch with the artist and managed to bring it home. The piece is 3’W x 7’H. Larger than I had planned for my first frame, but I gave it a shot :)
I started by making a frame sample from some off cuts. Realized that I needed to rotate the wood by 90 degrees so that the face of the frame showed the long grain lines and not the “peaks.” I’m really glad I noticed that detail before starting on the large frame!
I ripped down two old cedar 2x4’s that I got at a garage sale after an old woodworker passed. He’d been storing them in his shed rafters for many years.
I cut the rabbits on my table saw and then rounded over the edges with my trim router. I cut the 45’s with my grandfather-in-law’s old mitre box, which I had been holding on to for a decade but never used. It worked like a charm.
I cut a piece of doorskin to match the size of the art and then glued up the frame using a strap clamp on my living room floor because it was flatter than my shop floor. I had to extend the strap because it wasn’t long enough to fit around the whole frame.
Sanded to 220, then two coats of tung oil.
I assembled everything on a large work table at my day job, (but after hours.) The glass is 1/8” non-glare acrylic, cut down to size by the shop where I bought it. Glazier’s points, acid-free mounting tape, and brown framer’s tape finished it off.
Everything went fairly smoothly and I’m very happy with the end result. Final weight is 24lbs.
Best part is, the missus went out of town for the week before her birthday so I was able to make the frame and assemble everything without her knowing or suspecting anything :) I strongly doubt I’ll ever be able to pull off a better birthday gift.
r/woodworking • u/Individual_Eye3108 • 3h ago
Project Submission Lopez island cribbage
28
Upvotes
Wanted to thank my uncle and aunt for hosting my family at their weekend house on Lopez Island in the San Juan Islands 2 months ago. Their family is into board games, so I decided to to try my hand at a cribbage board in the shape of Lopez Island. As a nod to the red-barked native madrona tree which is borderline endangered, I chose cherry for the island. The sea is wavy maple. The base is walnut. Designed the track to end at arguably the most beautiful bay on the island: Watmough Bay. The irregular shape of the island proved a good excuse to purchase a scroll saw (love projects that 'require' a new tool purchase). ;)
r/woodworking • u/spydernicswoodcraft • 8h ago
Project Submission Made a wooden baby gym for my friends’ newborn
67
Upvotes
A couple of friends recently welcomed a newborn, and they wanted a baby gym for her. I’d never actually heard of a baby gym before, I was almost disappointed it didn't involve dumbbells XD
The frame is pine, with the lower part of the legs painted yellow (on mama's demand!). I wanted it to be easy to take apart, so the main dowel is held in place with T-nuts and knobs, and I made it so the legs interlock rather than just relying on a string or something similar.
The lil' rabbit and turtle are made from sycamore and cut on a scroll saw. Speaking of, I went down a rabbit hole researching finishes suitable for children’s toys. I used Rustins toy-safe varnish, and the paint on the frame is non-toxic and EN 71 compliant as well.
This project turned into a bit of a collab with my wife, as she made the macramé for the toys I made, plus a couple of extras to complete the set.
A feature I was pretty proud of: I added little grooves to the dowel so that the rings of the toys can sit in them. It’s the little things!
Pretty happy with how it turned out, and hopefully the little one gets some use out of it.
Would be interested to hear what you'd have done differently, particularly with the frame design or the hanging toys.
r/woodworking • u/Objective_Roll8414 • 2h ago
General Discussion Wood movement?
15
Upvotes
Can anybody explain how a piece like this wouldn’t crack with seasonal wood movement? It seems like the side pieces are attached to the top leaving no room for any wood movement on the night stand top.
r/woodworking • u/Pwnxor • 10h ago
Nature's Beauty Found some wild spalting in the rough maple I picked up recently
52
Upvotes
This plant was super close to rotten, figured I'd try my luck on the planet
r/woodworking • u/FundingNemo • 7h ago
Project Submission A couple of Sapele serving trays I just completed
30
Upvotes
The frame is Sapele with maple splines. The main boards are Ash/Canary/Purple Heart/Leopard (center) and Ash/Cherry/Purple Heart/Canary (center). First time finishing with Walrus Oil. Really brings out the grain nicely. These are 24”x14”.
I used my laser cutter to create a router template for the handles. I trace the outline into the machined stock, then use my band saw to get pretty close to the edges, and my drill press to create starter holes for the hand grips. I then use double-stick tape to apply the template and cut the final shape on the router table with a flush trim bit.
I built a basic spline jig, which I use with a 1/4” finger joint blade to cut the corner splines. They given a nice aesthetic and dramatically improve the durability of the mitered corners.
The individual boards float in a 3/4” channel within the frame, allowing for the main board to expand and contract, though at 12 3/4” there is little movement.
Over the last couple of years I’ve made about 30 of these, refining the process to get a very durable design. I sell these at craft fairs, along with other boxes and small furniture. The trays are always my most reliable piece to sell.
r/woodworking • u/Crazyjaw • 12m ago
Shop Tour/Layout Little art piece added to the shop
•
Upvotes
I share a shop with some buddies, and one left the metal fence in the path of the blade on the cross cut sled. He went with “Sloth” because he was being too lazy to check his setup.
I suspect “greed” will be our next peice, just trying to get that “one last cut” done for the day
r/woodworking • u/f-150Coyotev8 • 1d ago
Project Submission Made a charcuterie board for a wedding gift
754
Upvotes
Made a charcuterie board out of walnut and epoxy. I cut it in half with a jigsaw and filled it with epoxy. I had one little blow out and had to fill it.
r/woodworking • u/Riverlark • 11h ago
General Discussion Table saw question and right tilting blade
23
Upvotes
I have a Ryobi BT3000 table saw I picked up used for $200 that included the built-in router table and sliding miter table with gauge. I'm new to woodworking, started about 3 years ago and its my first table saw. I've learned a lot about it and took a class on Table Saw Basics. I practice safety at all times and try to always stay mindful of the potential dangers. So far its been a great tool when I need it but will admit I am intimidated by it and try to only use it when my wife is around or nearby.
My issue is when I need to do angled cuts and this saw has a right-tilting blade. It just seems like such a bad design and after reading some Reddit posts and then a Fine Woodworking’s article about left tilt vs right tilt I feel validated in that feeling (photo of article). The FWW article said a fix would be to shift my fence over to the left of my blade which I can do and plan on for any future angled cuts. What has me a bit confused in this operation is what they said about how it changes the measurements in that position. I don’t really understand what that means in practical terms. I feel stupid asking about this but I am a bit challenged with mechanical and engineering type questions. Why would the measure from the fence to my blade change from one side to the other? For reference, I have a thin kerf blade on my Ryobi and it has its original fence. I tuned up my saw when I got it, checking my parallels regarding the blade to fence and miter slots as well. Things are good on both. I know my blade doesn’t sit in the center of the throat plate but can’t I just measure from fence to blade when I need to?
And is there anything I might be missing to keep myself safe when I shift the fence over and am doing angled cuts with left tilt? I understand I still need to make sure my work piece is held against the fence and use proper pushblock safety, ear and eye protection, and stance. Thanks!
r/woodworking • u/donkeyDPpuncher • 5h ago
General Discussion Neighbor took out a white oak and maple.
7
Upvotes
I told him I’d take the firewood. With plans to cut it further and split I’m left wondering if I should do something else with the good size pcs. I have woodworking experience and cnc machines at our shop. My question is should I pursue turning some of these into boards or just stick with the firewood plans.
r/woodworking • u/Slow-Yogurtcloset-11 • 6h ago
General Discussion Initial Glue Up for a star pattern cutting board
8
Upvotes
I know cutting boards have become "Passe", but I'm having fun with them.
This is the initial glue up for a star pattern(pretty basic) board in cherry and hickory.
It is also my first use of the Spe Tool panel clamp system. I ordered their router lift and the smallest set of panel clamps to see if they are really better than the home built panel clamps I have been using.
They absolutely are. I will be ordering 4 of the larger clamps with my next bonus check.
The router lift is installed, but untested. It feels good and was an easy install with the included templates. I don't see anything that would indicate any possible issues at this point. It is certainly an upgrade from my previous router table set up.
r/woodworking • u/joeybagguhdonutz • 3h ago
Finishing Cherry cutting board
5
Upvotes
Piece of cherry I’ve had laying around for years already glued up - whipped out a cutting board, 2 coats watco butcher block finish and 2 coats of Howard’s butcher block conditioner - curious folks thoughts on using these products… Does the board hold up well, either the finish or the conditioner even necessary?! Excited to try it out on this board over the next few years and see how it goes, plan on near daily use with this board
r/woodworking • u/ryencool • 8h ago
Techniques/Plans Plans for my first workbench!
9
Upvotes
We just got our firdt house at the ripe old age of 44m/33f, a little late but we made it. I put away my wood working skills and tools over a decade ago to get a more stable job in IT. Thats paid off big time, and now we have a two car garage when we share a single EV. So I get a wood working space again! Ofcpurse with that comes projects for the house, built in in the pantry, better equipped laundry room, built ins in the master closet. I could go on and on...
First I need a basic work bench! I was going to go shper complex and make it an outfeed table with my Skil table saw built into it, but I just sont think I need that. It has legs anyways. For now I just need a flat long surface and some extra storage. All of this will ride on some Holkie TD60s so I can leve each corner, and drop it onto the wheels if I need to move it around.
I figure go simple, figure out what I need and dont need over the next 6-12 months. Then I can either modify it, or tear it down and rebuild.
First time using sketchup sorry
r/woodworking • u/ClipIn • 10h ago
Announcement We need your ideas!: New categories "Post Flairs" and "User Flairs" in r/woodworking, it's time to update. TWO reasons: 1) Post Flairs make easy work to search/filter Posts, and 2) User Flair go next to your username and give context to your experience
13
Upvotes
Hey folks,
It's been a while since we updated some subreddit settings.
We want your ideas/suggestions for post categories we don't have now (e.g. Project Submission, Hand Tools, etc), or user-descriptions (e.g. Joiner, Luthier, etc). Please drop a comment if Post Flair AND/OR User Flair you'd like to see in the subreddit.
Scroll down, for a list of existing flairs.
We're asking for edits/additions:
1. Post Flairs
A special tag community members can assign to their Post/Thread (pick one per Post). Categorizes your Post type. These show up in reddit searches, or sort/filter the subreddit by clicking one. It looks like this on the r/woodworking homepage:
2. User Flairs
A tag users pick, appears next to your username anytime you Post or Comment in r/woodworking, and only appears in this sub. Shows the type of woodworking you do. It looks like this:
These are current Post Flairs
General Discussion
Project Submission
Techniques/Plans
Hand Tools
Power Tools
Shop Tour/Layout
Finishing
CNC/Laser Project
Repair
Jigs
Safety
Nature's Beauty
Help
These are current User Flairs
Cabinetry
Carpentry
Carving
CNC
Framing
Furniture
Hand Tools Only
Joinery
Luthier
Woodturning
Please drop a comment if you'd like new categories added or have suggestions!
We'd like to make these useful, interesting, helpful. So, time-to-time we look for community to advise us on revising. Thanks!
r/woodworking • u/BelgianBillie • 7h ago
General Discussion Asbestos in old wiring of motor?
7
Upvotes
Do you guys think i should be worried about asbestos in the wiring of this old motor? It was attached to a bandsaw and i just yanked it out to change cabinets and a previous person cut up the wires to install a switch.
r/woodworking • u/birdhouse123467 • 3h ago
Repair Best way to fix these big gaps in pine flooring
2
Upvotes
r/woodworking • u/tstauffe1 • 8h ago
General Discussion Miters on a painted dresser is it worth it?
4
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I’m making a simple dresser for my daughter. The base has a 1 inch trim that goes around and I’m wondering is using miters at the corners of the base worth it since it’s just going to be painted anyway.
The last time I did miters it was a pain to get the length dead on, so I’m really wondering is that hassle worth it? I only have a tablesaw no miter saw.