Pessoal, tenho um Corsa Sedan Premium 2008 e aconteceu uma coisa estranha com os vidros elétricos.
Do nada, todos os vidros elétricos abaixaram sozinhos. Entrei no carro e consegui subir todos novamente, mas, depois disso, nenhum dos vidros funcionou mais.
Já verifiquei todos os fusíveis e encontrei um queimado. Fiz a substituição, mas mesmo assim os vidros continuam sem funcionar.
Alguém já passou por algo parecido ou sabe o que pode estar causando isso? Pode ser o relé, o módulo de comando dos vidros, algum problema elétrico ou até um curto no chicote?
Agradeço qualquer dica de como diagnosticar o problema antes de sair trocando peças sem necessidade!

I’m trying to install a rear backup camera on my 2013 Honda pilot touring. It is from an aftermarket Apple CarPlay unit. I installed the camera on the rear hatch, there’s a black wire from the Apple CarPlay unit that has a five pin connector. From the backup camera is a female, five pin connector and a single red wire. I connected the red wire using a T connector to the blue wire just outside of the reverse light bulb socket. This should activate only when I put the car in reverse but instead, I’m getting constant power for this blue wire. Researching online it says that the main harness going to the rear hatch has a green wire that only gets power when the cars put into reverse.

Which wire do I connect the red wire from the backup camera to to only get power when the car is put in reverse. I have the navigation unit that comes with the touring model if that matters. Thanks for your help.

Hi
I’m looking for a good Auto electrician for a few issues as I have my sensors in mutiny. Rear tyres jammed in a busy street so it’s a safety issue.
Nissan 2018

Anyone know one?

How much can I expect parts to be marked up in the US? Not a dealership, just a small local shop. The shop I’ve gone to for 6 years was recently purchased and the new owner has high parts prices. Trying to gauge what’s standard.

Hi everyone

We have a 2022 Subaru Forester. The left rear tyre was slowly losing pressure, we noticed this over a year ago. At the last service Subaru said there was no problem with it and pumped it up. The problem continued so we took it to a local reputable mechanic who inspected everything including the wheel/rim, said couldn't find a problem but changed the valve. This appeared to improve things for a short period and then the problem happened again. We went back to the same mechanic, and as the tyres were now over 4 years old and starting to show wear, we changed both rear tyres. Again seemed to hold for a bit but then the slow leak occurred again.

The way it happens is that the pressure maintains for a week or two after pumping it up, then slowly drops then more rapidly over the following weeks. We notice it first with the automatic pressure sensor, but have confirmed it each time at a petrol station's air pump.

The car is still under warranty so I might ask Subaru to fix this, but I am worried they will claim there is not problem. I'm at a loss to understand why it is happening. I have seen people mention that applying sealant around the tyre can help and other suggestions.

Anybody have other thoughts?

Cheers

Orange Engine light is on my 2008 Yaris now, error is bank 1 sensor on the exhaust…. Advice pls and how major is this issue? Car drive absolutely fine

I bought a used Subaru Outback 2013 about two years ago from a reputable Toyota dealership in the area. Unfortunately, I bought the car as-is, and didn’t realize that it had endless issues. One of the major issues is that it has massive oil leaks. I cannot afford the $10,000 repair that would need to be done to fix that issue. When I bought the car, I was freshly out of school, so I didn’t put a large payment down, so I’m still paying this car off. When I learned about the oil leak a few months ago, I accepted my fate that I will need to get rid of the car in the near future, as the repair costs more than the value of the car. Realistically, the soonest I will be able to pay it off is within six months to one year. In an ideal world, I’d already have gotten rid of this car.

This week, the car started making a horrible rattling/grinding sound. I looked under the hood, and noticed that the pulley attached to the AC compressor is horribly messed up. I took it to the mechanic today, and they estimated $2500 to repair the AC compressor and pulley. The reasoning for the price that I was given is that the compressor and pulley are attached, so they can’t just replace the pulley. After taking it to the mechanic, the car started having a horrible burning, rubber smell, so now, I am extremely concerned that the car is going to imminently break.

I’m seeking alternative solutions to the $2500 repair. I’ve done some research, but wanted to see if anyone with experience with Subaru outback has any ideas. Is there a way to just replace the pulley (if so, where can you buy the part)? Is it possibly to bypass the AC compressor pulley completely and disconnect the AC by using a shorter belt?

To be clear, I’m really just looking for the cheapest option to keep the car running for a few months while I get the loan paid off enough to sell it.

I was so excited to get this car 2 years ago bc I’ve always wanted a Subaru, but I’ll definitely never get one again after this experience.

VW Scirocco 1.4 TSI CAVD 2010, 6 speed manual KWB, 220.000 km

For ~2 years, my car has had an intermittent rattle in neutral that disappears immediately when I press the clutch (video). Its becoming alot more frequent. The noise fluctuates with RPM, speeds up slightly until ~1200 RPM, then disappears or gets masked. No similar noise while driving, and performance remains unaffected.

Ive visited multiple garages and ive gotten multiple diagnoses

- Mainly, gearbox: Gear-tooth backlash, reportedly a common weak point. Also have been thats its not critical

- DMF? Some suspect a dual-mass flywheel; others claim my car has a single-mass flywheel. Apparently, even the flywheels identity is disputed.

- Clutch: Release bearing, clutch disc or pressure plate.

Clutch feel remains good, although the bite point feels slightly longer/less sharp after I attempted to diagnose the issue by holding it at the bite point 🥲

Has anyone with a similar car, engine/trans experienced this? What was the confirmed diagnosis, and what fixed it? Any technical insights are welcome aswell

My Nissan Kicks is showing this trouble code. I have already replaced the mass airflow (MAF) sensor, serviced the air filter and throttle body, and checked for leaks—I’ve inspected everything, yet the problem persists. What is the cause of this code?

I’ve been recently hearing a whining noise when accelerating in my jeep. I’ve done some googling and all signs point to a worn out alternator.

Does this sound like it could be?

Is there a way to test this?

So. A mechanic has put the ECM of the i10 in my i20 car. And has charged me 22k for it. He has given me a 5 months warranty. I ask in Google gemini if this will damage my work or not? It says it will throw lean petrol which may lead to damage of the head gasket or melting rods. This mechanic says it will work fine. He says he has been doing this for 5 years and telling me not to worry about what AI is saying. I'm really confused. If there is anyone expert on this subject. Please give me some suggestions.

Hello, I started a T-Ten training program at a community college for Toyota 3 years ago. I was brand new to working on cars and the Automotive industry when I started. I graduated last year and I still don’t have my own bay and they have kept me at hourly because there is no room. They are expanding the shop and I’m supposed to get my own bay and switch to flate rate once it’s done being built. That will be probably in December. I make 21 dollars an hour is Upstate NY, I have my inspectors license, 4 ase’s, and all my emods up until expert level for Toyota. I am only really confident beating the clock for brakes, alignments, suspension, and easy diag though. I was wondering if I should wait until the shop gets built, or if I’m wasting my time and look into going into a bigger dealership?

I bought a used Subaru Outback 2013 about two years ago from a reputable Toyota dealership in the area. Unfortunately, I bought the car as-is, and didn’t realize that it had endless issues. One of the major issues is that it has massive oil leaks. I cannot afford the $10,000 repair that would need to be done to fix that issue. When I bought the car, I was freshly out of school, so I didn’t put a large payment down, so I’m still paying this car off. When I learned about the oil leak a few months ago, I accepted my fate that I will need to get rid of the car in the near future, as the repair costs more than the value of the car. Realistically, the soonest I will be able to pay it off is within six months to one year. In an ideal world, I’d already have gotten rid of this car.

This week, the car started making a horrible rattling/grinding sound. I looked under the hood, and noticed that the pulley attached to the AC compressor is horribly messed up. I took it to the mechanic today, and they estimated $2500 to repair the AC compressor and pulley. The reasoning for the price that I was given is that the compressor and pulley are attached, so they can’t just replace the pulley. After taking it to the mechanic, the car started having a horrible burning, rubber smell, so now, I am extremely concerned that the car is going to imminently break.

I’m seeking alternative solutions to the $2500 repair. I’ve done some research, but wanted to see if anyone with experience with Subaru outback has any ideas. Is there a way to just replace the pulley (if so, where can you buy the part)? Is it possibly to bypass the AC compressor pulley completely and disconnect the AC by using a shorter belt?

To be clear, I’m really just looking for the cheapest option to keep the car running for a few months while I get the loan paid off enough to sell it.

I was so excited to get this car 2 years ago bc I’ve always wanted a Subaru, but I’ll definitely never get one again after this experience.