Really happy with the hood quality and install. Had to cut the hood back to accommodate the air to water manifold. Used Quik-Latch pins because I removed the core support for a v-mount radiator.

Noticed my clutch pedal was much softer, and would disengage near the floor. Thing failed after only 26k miles, fortunately they have a rebuild kit for it. Was just wondering if anyone else dealt with this and if there is anything to keep in mind before re-installing. I don't want to deal with this multiple times

So, i'm a current owner of a 2014 Q50 3.7. I'm currently facing some pretty major transmission problems with an engine that just hit 150k the day I was told my transmission needed to be replaced entirely. I already had a new valve body put in last October, a sensor replaced this past February, and now I have had a U1000 code in my car since a week after I had that February repair.(which unfortunately is not repairable without a swap) They are quoting me at $11,600 to get a reman transmission installed from the dealership. I know I have other options as to swap the transmission, but I'm to a point with this car to where I don't really know if it is worth it anymore to even put in more work since the engine is such high mileage. I love this car so much, but i think the time has come. I especially love the engine, which is why I am looking into a 2011 370z. its been my dream car for a long time, and i found one that only has 77k miles, original motor and manual trans. I am only wondering if it is worth it because I want to know if there are any major issues i should worry about. I know so many 370z owners who are on their 2nd motor, which has me worried but i feel that it might be user error. Is it worth it? and what are some things i should replace right away? i know about the slave cylinder issue but i dont see a huge problem since parts are relatively cheap.

So guys i found this Invidia Gemini bit im not sure if fits 350z or 370z? (I have a 370z) if fits 370z can be modified to fit my 370z?

Hey all,

This will probably be a bit vague, but maybe you asking the right questions will help me look in the right spot. For a while now, I keep hearing an almost plastic sounding rattle. I’ve pulled the under shroud off and while there’s some cracked pieces, I’ve gotten under while the car is running and doesn’t appear to be coming from there. More annoyingly it sometimes sounds like it’s near the engine, others maybe closer to the back. Could be something near the exhaust, like a heat shield? But again, it has an almost plastic sound. Anyone ever encounter this?

Edit:video added to comments

Hi all,

I'll try to fill in as much as possible, however I may be a bit dazed after slapping myself over and over for not trusting my gut.

A week ago I posted about the 41.22 Killswitch kit that's essentially incompatible with a 370z because of the IPDM. I bought a 2020 base 370z at the beginning of the month and was paranoid about theft so I bought their kit, the website has a VIN check to confirm compatibility.

When it arrived I emailed them and mentioned that there doesn't seem anywhere for it to plug into. They replied that the single black relay on the outside of the IPDM was the one to bypass. Foolishly enough I trusted them and started the installation when I confirmed the relay bypass they sent isn't even the proper width (too wide to fit in slot) I reassembled the car and tried to start it only for it to not turn over. All electronics seem to work in order except when pressing start with the clutch depressed, the radio turns off and there's no starter actuating. Some of the things I've looked over so far:

-car feels like im turning it off when trying to start. Cabin lights and gauge stay on but start button light goes out, radio goes black then comes back on when I hit the start button again.

-fuel pump hums when "on" is selected

- a single, metallic click is heard from the engine bay when trying to start

-purchased new battery, original dropped to almost 7v while trying to troubleshoot yesterday. Same issue with 12.5v reading on new battery

-tested all fuses related to starting in the bay and under the footwell, all 5 fuses on the positive fusible link and all IPDM fuses with a circuit tester. They all lit up when car is in "on" position.

-EDIT: Used obdlinkEX to scan for codes, no codes at the moment (example:u1000 u1001) so as far as I know all the modules are connecting to each other

To summarize, the only thing I did was remove the single black relay on the top right of the IPDM, plugged it back in and then aborted the install. I've only had the car for about 3 weeks and didn't know about the specialized fuse box, and read in horror that some of them are soldered to the circuit board. I can't find any info on the name, function or type of fuse relay that I messed with, but I want to know if that's one of the soldered relays and if I'm screwed or if it's possible to try placing another one in. It was easy to remove with a small flathead and I don't recall feeling or hearing any breaking.

Where should I go from here? I plan to give it until the end of Sunday before I tow it to the dealer.

Sorry if this reads a little scatterbrained, I'm still riled up about potentially serving up a 1600 dollar repair over a bogus product if the module is toast.

Hi, I know this is a random question and I am sorry I wasn’t able to capture it but when I’m driving and especially on higher speeds I start hearing a clicking noise coming from the back side of my 370z.
I remember reading somewhere that it’s a common issue with the trunk latch? Or something like that.
It sounds like metals clacking together.
Sorry again for the stupid question but I’m new to cars and it’s really getting on my nerves.

So I’m gonna do my trans fluid tomorrow in my manual 370z and I decided to get mt85 redline. I was reading some posts of people having good experiences mostly but also some people that said it made their shifting worse/notchy. Anyone that has used mt85 please let me know your experience after using it

Hey guys so i got this deal for this Bc racing coilovers V-02 RWD they fit G37 from 2008-2013 i wanna know if they can be installed on my 370z 2017, im aware of the spring rate is kinda different but if any of you did it and works i wanna try it too

Curious to know whether investing in aluminium undertrays is one of those MUST DO things ?

My Z still has its OEM plastic undertray which is already starting to crack. I keep seeing ads for those metal aluminium undertrays conveniently !

The aluminium ones are about three times the price of the plastic ones hence want to know whether they are worth investing?

So my z has the upper screen with all the stupid amount of buttons, but I really like the cubby but still want carplay part below the cubby, any suggestions?

Found my oil leak I been searching for. Thought the rtv where the cam cradle sealed to the head was blown but turns out that a piece of the cam cradle where valve cover bolts to the cradle was broken off. My thought is the owner before me had an oil leak, replaced valve cover gaskets and either overtighten or had some rtv, fluid or debris in the bolt hole and cracked the aluminum. I then get the car and replace valve cover gaskets 2x, and swapped to new aluminum valve covers. All that removing and reinstalling probably worsened it. Thankfully I found it when I did cause that piece could’ve fell right onto the cam. Decided the piece was so small that I was gonna JBWELD IT. You’re probably thinking I’m crazy but given the circumstances, it made the best sense. The head along with the cradle would’ve had to be replaced since they’re machined together per Nissan and it would’ve just made it more labor-intensive. If I had a doubt about it I wouldn’t have done it. This is a repair in my book. I say this to say be very careful tightening bolts into the engine. Aluminum is more susceptible to cracking then cast - especially when there’s liquid in a bolt hole. When removing front timing cover i could see the stress marks on the backside of the cover and this is the first time the cover has been removed. Day two though and cars holding up good, no oil leaks so far, car runs smooth. Oil pressure is at about 17psi when warm (open top oil pressure gauge)

Also my car has 79k. Gallery gaskets were in good condition but 3 Phillips head bolts were loose so keep that in mind. Water pump weep hole was also nearly clogged.

IMPORTANT: if you ever remove the VVEL motor you have to mechanically put it back to 1.585 inches, put the VVEL sensor to 500mv (.5v) and perform the learn procedure or Car won’t start. Luckily I got it first start up. YouTuber named Seth Joyner has videos.

Labor time approximately 20 hours.

I recently changed the alternator with one from Napa, and the connector shattered in my hand, so I bought a new one, swapped the pins, and plugged it in. Now I have a no-charge situation; I replaced the alternator again, but there is still no charge. There are no blown fuses, but what would happen if I swapped the wires incorrectly and ran it, and does anyone know the outcome?

Hey guys,

I’m having a really stiff ride at the moment particularly at the rear, and looking for some advice especially as my city is full of horrible bumpy roads.

For context, my 370Z has BLITZ coilovers with adjustable damping via a knob and it was already lowered when I bought it (photo attached).

Is it as simple as turning the adjustment knobs a few clicks towards soft and testing it on the road, or are there other things need doing simultaneously such as ride height?

Also, just from eyeballing the photo - does the rear look too low to soften the damping without risking the tyres rubbing against the arches over bumps?

Every mechanic I’ve spoken to seems to fear monger a noob like me to do a full diagnostic including balancing etc etc, as apparently it might put stress on the chassis? I’m probably being duped.. So I thought I’d ask you lovely Redditors for advice from people with actual experience!

Appreciate any tips!

I have a 2010 370Z with 55k miles and am aware of the infamous gallery gasket issue.

I recently spoke to an experienced high performance car mechanic who advised against installing an aftermarket oil pressure gauge unnecessarily.
His reasoning was that the factory sensors should warn you of dangerously low oil pressure, giving you time to investigate before serious engine damage occurs.
He also felt that aftermarket gauges can introduce unnecessary modifications and potentially cause confusion with fluctuating readings.

For those familiar with the VQ, how reliable is the factory oil pressure warning system, and can gallery gasket failure cause engine damage before the warning light comes on?

I only use my car as a normal road car, not for track days or aggressive driving. I’d appreciate understanding why so many owners recommend installing an aftermarket gauge.

I've been struggling to decide on a spoiler for my Z, and honestly, I feel like there are only two real contenders: the V1 Nismo and the Amuse. Both have their own pros and cons, and I'm genuinely torn between them.

Amuse

Pros:

• Fits the rear V2 Nismo bumper better than the V1 spoiler.
• Has a better overall side profile IMO.

Cons:

• It's pretty bulky. As cool as it looks, something about it gives off a bit of a rice vibe.
• More expensive.

V1 Nismo

Pros:

• IMO, this is the sleekest and most aggressive-looking spoiler for the Z. The front view is just hard to beat, and it flows with the car so well.
• Cheaper.

Cons:

• It sticks out a little more from the rear than I'd ideally like.
• It's pretty common on Zs in my area, so I'd like something a little different.

I'm honestly torn because I love the look of the V1, but I think the Amuse flows better with the V2 rear bumper. Let me know which one you guys would go with and why!

Thought I would share with fellow Z34 brothers, can’t ever get enough of the Z33/34/Rz34 ever, such a fun car.

This just started the other day and before it would randomly jump into limp mode if at a long stop or if in park for too long while still running. Anything would help since I’m moving across country and taking the car on a roadtrip.

I suck with electrical work and I accidentally broke a connector while taking my alternator out. I can’t seem to find anywhere online what this is for can anyone help? I believe it’s behind the power steering pump