I'm rather new to weaving. Every time I set up wool warp I end up with yarn tangles. I'm guessing they come from yarns crossing over each other when I take the warp off the warping mill, or perhaps it's that I don't keep consistent yarn tension at the warping mill. They are easily straightened out but it takes a lot of time.
Any tips or advice how I could avoid this problem? Or do I just have to live with it?

I just started tablet weaving. I really like bright and fun colors, but I haven't had too much luck finding any. I have a ton of crochet cotton #10, but I'd like some more a little thicker or even thinner. Where do people within the United States get fun colors? I'm a beginner, so I need something pretty strong while I learn which is why I got #10 cotton.

What the title says. Storage is always the hardest.

Alright guys, the baby blanket im weaving will be 35 inches by 45 inches. Which means the length of warp yarn will be 56.4 inches accounting for shrinkage and loom waste. The width of the warp yarn is 42 accounting for loom waste and shrinkage. Calculating the width of warp yarn is 56.4x504 =28,425.6 yards.

The number of warp yarns is 12 dent reed x 1 yards per dent x 42 inches. Or 504.
This is where I get confused. How do I calculate quantity of weft yarn here if I am to have 5 wedt shots per inch??

Let’s say for example I need 30,925 yards of yarn. Where in the world can I order this much 8/2 cotton yarn and how do I order it. The websites are confusing and the prices are wayyyy to steep. Help me pls

Happy wife, happy life! 😎👌🏻

Designed this sunglasses pouch loom for my wife in Blender right before going to bed.

Printed it overnight, and when I picked it up, I immediately thought, why is this thing so heavy?! 😂

I believe I accidentally printed it at 100% infill.

185.1 grams! Nearly a fifth of a kilogram spool for this relatively thin little loom.

But honestly, I'm not complaining. This thing is SOLID.

The biggest improvement over my original pouch loom is the needle retention. Every needle slides perfectly into position with just the right amount of tension. They don't even fall out when I turn the entire loom upside down!

No glue, no loose needles. Just a nice friction fit.

I've got a medium and small pouch loom planned next, and possibly an extra-small version.

All designed from scratch in Blender and printed on my Bambu P1S.

Just having fun experimenting, hope you like! 😎👌🏻

I love experimenting with scraps and random materials I find around the house. Things that would otherwise end up in the trash or sit forgotten in a drawer for years.

I started experimenting with weaving on pieces of colored cardboard, and I love how much freedom this little technique offers! The idea is pretty simple: you make holes in a piece of cardboard using a template, create the warp with yarn and then weave over and under, just as you would on a regular loom.

What I enjoy most is that you don't need to stick to a pattern or use your precious yarn stash. It's a great way to use those odd little scraps that are too short for most projects. Yes! You can change colors whenever you want, experiment a lot with different yarn thicknesses and see what happens.

I also tried a simplified version of this idea with young girls and it was a huge success! With a few adjustments, they were able to weave their own little pieces, choosing colors and making up their designs as they went along.

If you enjoy weaving and also giving discarded materials a second life, you can follow my process here.

I inherited a Glimakra countermarche loom and am re-learning!!

Each project I try to tweak the set-up and as I was tying up the treadles this time I wondered the following:

I have 4 harness/shafts. I have six treadles and ability to add 4 more harnesses. Since I am only using four, is there any reason to spread out my tie-up along each treadle or is the shed the best tying up using the front four holes in each treadle rather than using the middle four holes or spreading across all eight holes evenly? Any thoughts?

Hello!!

I was recently given this thrifted Beka rigid heddle loom. It was a thrift store find so probably not perfect but ive been dying to try a rigid heddle, so here we are!

Im just so unfamiliar with them im having a hard time working out if this is a floor loom, or a table loom, if its super broken or if its just been bumped around a bit, if it's missing any obvious pieces?

Any advisement would be so appreciated if this catches anyone's eye!! TIA!! 💛💛💛

1st off, I don't like Rit Dye. It was supposed to be black, but I got this grey instead.
Dyed once then washed because I was impatient. And if I dyed twice I was worried it would then start to seep in.

Skein is 100% cotton. I haven't gotten the weight yet because it was 8 ply but untwisted. So it's jut 8 very fine cotton fibers. But.... eh.

Legend:

Grey - Cotton, same material as the skein
Blue - Polyester yarn from an old thrifted sweater
Yellow - Acrylic yarn
Green - Polyester sewing thread

*none were waxed. I have tried 2-ply polyester thread with wax in an old project and it resisted very well even the very fine ties.

What do you think?

Which should I stick to? What could I do to get a darker black?

I was wondering if it would work differently with different skein sizes.

I’m going to get started on on attempting this pattern on towels, at the moment I don’t have the yarns for it so will be ordering online but don’t want to buy the wrong size

My plan is to buy 8/2 for the warp and 8/4 for the pattern weft and set it at 20 epi (I have a 10 dent reed)

I hear lots of mixed things about this being too tight of a weave or not thick enough for the pattern weft

What’s your go to size for overshot? Or any tips for figuring out a good balance of pattern and tabby yarns?

I will be testing the sizes before committing to buying more colors but wanted to stick to two or three sizes to order first

Can anyone tell me where this was made? It looks like a Zapotec or Chimayo to my eyes but could be wrong. Thank you so much

….is to *really* check your threading. In my defense, I did check the actual threading, but didn’t check which colors I was threading with the pattern until I had threaded over 1000 heddles. I was just over this whole project at that point, so I recklessly continued. I‘m not sure I’ll ever do striped tabby overshot ever again 🤣

Wool on wool overshot, 40 epi on a 31 inch wide warp.

Hi yall, I need help ordering yarn online. I definitely want a forest green and Tara Cotta colors. I think cotton would be best but how much of it do I buy? What size reed do yall use? I’m sure there are more questions I can’t think of right now but please help me out if you can. I’m making a baby blanket for a friend

Inspired by my favorite train station (last photo). 15”x20”, continuous warp equivalent to 8 epi. Made on the loom I built. Warp and weft are 100% wool from Brown Sheep Co. Weft is worsted weight, color from bottom to top are Burnt Red; Natural; Mallard; twill is Rusty Rose, Fire Rock Yellow*, and Indigo*; Fire Rock Yellow*; White; Buckwheat and Admiral for the window area; Earth; next twill is Mallard, Burnt Red, and Three Sisters*; Earth; alternating rows of Burnt Red and Russet for tile roof effect; dazzler in Natural, Mallard, Fawn, and Three Sisters* to represent the beam framed ceiling and/or a stylized sun in the colors of the ceiling. (* indicates dyed by Weaving in Beauty in Gallup, NM).

Hi, I'm not sure this is the right place to ask this question, but I found what I think is a hand woven piece made of hand spun yarn yesterday at goodwill. I'm looking for information on the style and designs but at the very least I thought that you all would also appreciate getting to look at it because it's very lovely, at least to my eyes. Frankly I'm still flummoxed that I paid $6 for it.

I didn't look at it closely enough when I bought it, I just saw that it was a lovely pattern and would be a very cool piece for an upholstery project I have. When I got home and took a closer look and realized what I had and now I feel like it would be a crime to cut it up at all. I'm thinking about hanging it on my wall. It's so weird to me that someone would donate this.

Anyway, any help is appreciated and if anyone knows more places I could ask that would be great!

So a couple of months back I was looking at selvedge denim and had a 'Eureka' moment. If it's called selvedge because of it's edge, then can't you recreate the same thing on a table loom?

I would've brought a floor loom but I don't have enough space in my house so I'm thinking about buying an 8-shaft table loom. Will the stock loom do the job or will I have to modify some stuff?

(I'm a newbie with no experience in weaving whatsoever).

I measured out 2 scarves worth of warp length. I recently finished weaving one scarf and had no time to continue with the second. Before cutting off the completed scarf I wove a few rows of tabby to stabilize the fell line and taped the warp beneath it with a masking tape, as in the picture.

I am now ready to continue weaving, but I am not sure what's the best way to tie this to the front apron rod. Should I undo the tabby, masking tape, or both, then redo the sectional slip knots and tie or lash to the front apron rod, or is there a better/more efficient way of retying the warp?

Update: thank you all for your kind feedback! See my solution in the comments.

I am reading Mary Meigs Atwater's shuttle-craft book on American Hand-weaving and she says to stand by the right hand cape of the loom when threading. It's not a term I'm familiar with and while I can make some guesses (the side, front beam, back beam, etc) they could all work with the rest of the directions.

"When drawing in alone on a large loom the best method is to stand facing the right-hand cape of the loom, with a strand of warp over the back-beam and over the tops of harness frames. Hold the strand taut with the left hand and select a thread with the right hand, taking the threads carefully in order."

this is my first time weaving and I was planning on my first project to make a scarf but since I don't have really much money I pretty much make the tools myself and just hope that things are gonna work. I need some criticism about this piece since I think it's kind of weird to look at

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I recently bought my first rigid heddle loom, a Kromski Harp and some yarns to test with and here are my first projects. I've never woven before and it shows 😂

Very first was a cotton towel made from Maurice Brassard 8/2. It is very open because I used a 10DPI heddle, but very useful in the kitchen.

Since I've had a lot of warp left, I doubled the warp form outside to inside and wove a scarf with a blue handspun yarn with some sari silk nepps in it.

The third project was a hero cowl, I used a self striping sock yarn as warp and a red Malabrigo Arroyo yarn for the weft. Love this cowl, it is very soft.

My latest project were two kitchen towels, the projects I feel most drawn to and will probably make a lot more. It is made of Drops Safran in white, turquoise, teal and gold. One was woven with white only and for the second I followed the same pattern as in the warp, starting and ending with white. Already washed, dried and hemmed with my sewing machine

Anyone else attending the Thousand Islands Art Center weaving history conference this week? What did you think of day 1? Lets discuss.

Hello everyone,

I want to have this here for future reference for me and any other weavers who might want to try out Krokbragd. Other than the obvious “sample, sample, sample”, is there any hints/tips/tricks that anyone has that would help out beginners in this technique? Yarn suggestions, loom types, yada yada?

Any help is appreciated by me, and hopefully by any future googlers who need help with Krokbragd

Last weekend I bought a second hand loom. I'm quite new to weaving, so I don't know much about it. Does anyone know what loom it is? It says Mira, but I'm not sure what type. The instructions says Mira 2, but I can't find the a similar mira 2 on the internet. I'm also not sure if I'm missing parts. If anyone can help me, I would appriciate it! Thanks!!