Hi all, to preface this I'm well aware of the buying guide. But there are 3 irons I've been going between to replace my yihua 862BD for a JBC cartridge style one + an atten hot air station.

FNIRSI DWS-200

Geeboon tc22

Aifen A9E

Each is attractive to me for different reasons, the DWS 200 cause well, 200 watts. The geeboon tc22 because they have that switch that allows you to simultaneously attach 3 irons, C245, C215, and 115 handles. And the Aifen A9E came very well recommended by joeydoestech on youtube. Just wanting opinions/purchase advice. Helps that they are all around same if similar price points.

The button to turn this flashlight on and off snapped off. The battery is still good. Is it worth keeping the rest for parts (like the rechargeable battery) or should I just toss it? Im kind of new to soldering but I really liked this flashlight and kind of hate tossing stuff if I can still make it work in some other way. Thank you!

How to remove those and solder with care?

I have a basic solderon iron.

Should I start over? This looks bad to me. This is a board I did a while back in a first attempt but my vision/prescription was bad at the time.

un soldering a xbox series x controllers joystick, won't come out!

Hi! Has anyone ever used or has the jbc sl2020? Is it good for soldering xlr/jack/dmx cables and things like that?

Asking for a relative who only has this remote left for his 2015 Toyota Venza. The top two white switches are missing the clicker part. So he cannot unlock or lock the doors anymore.

To avoid buying a new remote, reprogram fee for smart key, is it possible to replace just the switch by some micro soldering shop with this "Tactile Push Button Switch"?

Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks.

So I’m pretty new to soldering in general. I have the ifixit soldering hub and was wondering which soldering tip types are good to have on hand in general? The only tip I currently have is the 1.5 bevel that came with my kit.

Galera, é o seguinte: sou iniciante na área de eletrônica e soldagem de componentes, então ainda tenho algumas dúvidas.

Quero fazer um reparo simples na placa de um carregador de notebook: remover um fio que está soldado na placa e substituí-lo por um novo. Para isso, preciso retirar a solda antiga e depois soldar o novo fio.

Minha dúvida é: qual produto devo usar para remover a solda antiga? Posso utilizar uma malha dessoldadora junto com fluxo de solda resinoso ou fluxo pastoso?

E, na hora de fazer a nova soldagem, devo utilizar a pasta para soldar da marca Soldatec ou algum outro produto?

Olhem a foto que enviei para entender melhor o tipo de reparo que pretendo fazer.

Resumindo, gostaria de saber qual é o produto mais adequado para esse serviço e se devo utilizar fluxo resinoso, fluxo pastoso ou outra opção.

Agradeço desde já a quem puder me ajudar! 🙏

Back in the, PS1, PS2, Xbox OG I got pretty good at installing some basic hardware hacks on older hardware.

What I'm looking to do is dip my toes back into console repairs and mods.

What I'm looking for is a decent kit, maybe with some basic boards to test my skills.

Can anyone recommend a good value kit to see me on my way?

My first soldering ever, can u gimme any advices?

Hello, I know these posts are very common, so will try to keep it short.

I am looking for soldering iron under $60 as CS student who wants to learn and do this as hobby (as I like to work with MCUs).

I am now using cheap, no name soldering pen from Ali with cheap knock off T12 tips. It is terrible to work with and I cannot find a room for improvement with it.

I couldnt look up cheap good soldering station, so I think pen is better at my budget (also I can put it easily in my drawer)

I found two: FNIRSI HS-02 and ALIENTEK T90 and cant decide.

I work mostly with pre-made modules now and microcontrollers but in future I will definitely do some my own PCBs, repair stuff at home etc. and dont know if to go with C210 or C245 tips (because of the size) - in other words, if to go with A or B versions and which of those two.

Thanks in advance!

Love building stuff with electronics, particularly FPV freestyle drones. Big into designing my own stuff too. Accepting any and all questions, including tips

The regulator LM340T-12 does not output any voltage. Sorry, my English isn't good

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Hi, im trying to get into soldering so I can fix up old CRT televisions. I purchased a radio kit online and these are some of my first joints. I wanted to know before I continued if im going in the right direction. I apologize if these photos aren't the best. Thank you!

Recently, some trouble happened with my C245 tip. I didn't secure the soldering iron properly in its stand, causing it to fall out and land with most of its tip body right onto a plastic part. This worried me, so I decided to try and clean it. Following some advice from the internet, I applied flux to the area covered in plastic. It actually started to dissolve the plastic, but the residue didn't go anywhere. After that, the tip turned completely black.

Now, I can only work with the very front edge of the tip. Previously, I was able to tin the flat area just before the bevel/chisel edge (if I remember well), but now the solder won't stick there at all. I attempted to clean the tip using a brass-plated steel wool sponge, but since there are no proper ones available in my local stores, I rotated the tip very smoothly and carefully to avoid damaging the plating. Unfortunately, it didn't help at all. I don't have any other cleaning supplies on hand right now, as I can't afford expensive tip tinners.

At the same time, I have never allowed the sting to remain without solder at its end, thereby preventing the formation of an oxide film.

The color of the soldering iron seems to say that it can be saved.

What can I do in this situation? I don't know much about such things since I started soldering relatively recently, about 5 days ago so I will be glad for your answers.

Right now, the only things I have on hand are a brass-plated steel wool sponge and a cellulose sponge (which came included with the soldering iron).

First time, the previous IC was carbonised and lifed the pad with it, soldered to the same network, does it look good?

Trying to get the old BMS PCB connected to a new LiPo battery (similar specs) but annfortunately the +ve terminal on the BMS delaminated. There is a grayish/black deposit on it and I am not sure what that is. Tried scratching in the hopes of jumping with no luck. How would I go about fixing/repairing this solder joint?

NOTE- this is not my solder joint but this is exactly what mine look like I just started soldering I’m using a Yihua 9263 I’ve gotten my joints down good to form nicely but no matter what I’ve tried it won’t give me that shine I can’t figure out what it is I’m doing wrong sometimes I get it sometimes I don’t and sometimes part of the solder is shiny and some isn’t I use 63/37 leaded solder 0.8 mm and my temps are set to 315c idk if it’s to cold or what I home the tip to the pcb for a few seconds like 3 then feed wire and remove wire then my iron a second or 2 after I try not to wiggle the helping hands sometimes they wiggle a super small amount maybe that’s why I’ve tried keeping it still tho and I keep getting that matte look I tested my parts with a multimeter and the leds resistor and all seem to work fine but I want that shine I heard it’s not necessary but is that really true what could I be doing wrong

What technique you pros do when desoldering and cleaning through holes? I feel like through holes is the most difficult to solder.

Please help