PENDING CODE P1682

I own a 2012 Camaro 2LT with around 117k miles. I had gotten the car a year ago and recently I been having a heat no start issue.

Whenever it would start to warm up my dash board would go crazy and my car will jerk before eventually shutting off. And then when I turned the key to ON without starting i would hear a click coming from my fuse box synchronized with the check engine light.

I ended up taking it to a mechanic who told me it was an electrical issue and told me the fuse box needed to be replaced. I had ended up finding the part myself after 2 weeks because the mechanic gave me the wrong part number. (I had to call Chevrolet and GM to verify the part since the mechanic got it wrong)

After replacement the mechanic insisted that it was good to drive then it was experiencing the same symptoms. Now he's saying its a ground issue with the wires. I am planning taking my car elsewhere due to this mechanic leaving my engine cover in the middle of the street somehow and the fact that I had to find the part.

I just want to know is grounding really the issue? And can it be a DIY thing? Kinda feels like I spent alot of money just to rule out the fuse box. Also when I asked people with the same camaro about similar symptoms they told me i can add an extra ground cable?

Hello, I have a 2025 Toyota Corolla LE 2.0L and need to install a block heater prior to the Midwest winters starting. I am trying to figure out where the port is, some sources say it’s by the water pump, others are saying it is sort of underneath the air filter housing, some say you can install from above the vehicle while others say it’s underneath. Could anybody help me in verifying where the port actually is?

I have been chasing this electrical gremlin for a bit now. Car would randomly die when driving. No misfiring or shaking just stalling then coming back to life. I found out it was the ecu connector. When I tap the I think connector it opens a circuit and triggers a solenoid in the transmission.

What are some solutions?

I looked at the pins and they look fine. I think the ecu may be bad. I also noticed this is a aftermarket ecu.

I am considering ordering another ECU but am not sure what to do.

2013 chevy silverado has had lifters redone recently

2017 VW Jetta with the 1.4t, 150k miles.
Checked the play of the wastegate right where the actuator rod connects to it, and I feel some considerable play to it. Most of the play is in and out on the axis of the actuator (like the actuator itself has some slight movement), assuming that’s mostly ok. But there is a little bit of play in and out going into the turbo (the axis that id assume the wastegate is on. Is that okay?

No check engine or EPC lights or codes at all, still builds boost and has good power.

First photo is where the wastegate connects to the rod, the area that has play in both directions. Second photo is just an area view of where the actuator sits, and where the rod goes. Not able to post a video of the play

I have a 2012 forester 2.5L non turbo. Starting the car and the engine is cold, when I put it in reverse it makes the whining sound. In all other gears there’s no sound. After even a minute or two of idling, when I go back to reverse after it’s warmed up a little, the sound is gone. The car drives normal. There are some tiny air bubbles on the dipstick but no metal or dirt. I’ve read that cold fluid can cause some weird sounds but this happens in even in the hot months. I’ve also read that bubbles can be from not be from not enough or too much fluid. Thoughts?

I have dealt with constant leaks with my 2016 Chevrolet Cruze (Yes I know the stories about this is normal with these). However, I just went through maybe 2k of repairs in about a month of trying to get the leaks fixed, with the recent one being the oil filter housing piece which caused the biggest leak. I picked it up this past Friday and they mentioned they had to remove alot in order to repair. I just seen this specific spot and its definitely looking like its running down it looks to be the frame of the car underneath. The ONLY reason I am still hesitant to still say its leaking is because it does look to appear to be coming from the frame which makes me believe it may have been from the previous leak. I am still noticing spots when I drive away but idk if its just fairly still recent and maybe its residue of the previous leak or what but this is beyond frustrating still seeing spots anytime I reverse out of my driveway.

I have a 2012 Mercedes Sprinter 316 CDI (OM651) and I’ve been fighting an intermittent limp mode issue for almost 2 years.
So far:
both turbos repaired
DPF replaced
EGR checked and not blocked
timing chain replaced
hoses/intake checked multiple times
visited 10+ workshops in Macedonia and Serbia
The van can drive perfectly for a long time, then suddenly goes into limp mode, usually after a longer drive.
The fault that keeps coming back is P02A7 – cylinder 4 fuel trim/control limit reached. I also occasionally get P2263 (turbo/boost performance).
What surprises me is that despite all the work done, nobody has ever properly tested the injectors.

I’m currently travelling through Germany and the limp mode came back again.

Has anyone had a similar OM651 problem? Could injector #4 cause this even if the engine runs smoothly and sounds normal? What would you test first: injector leak-off/bench test, compression, rail pressure or boost system?
Any real experience with this fault would be appreciated.

Toyota Corolla 2024

54k Km on it

33,500 miles

Hasn't been serviced for 15 k miles, 10 months

2016 Honda Fit hybrid. I use this for light daily commuting (less than 15 miles round trip) and the occasional 2-3 hour trip. I haven't noticed any problems so far while driving, but, well. If I'm planning on staying in a spot for 1-2 more years, is it worth continuing to drive this or give it up? I live in a place with a lot of sea air and rusty cars around me.

Noticed a squealing sound coming from the rear when driving home. What could be the cause? The brakes worked fine, there was no burning smell, no vibrations only the sound in the video. Could it be worn out pads?

Kia Rio '06 1.4L

Left front wheel suspension looks like this. I feel like it looks quite close to catastrophic failure? But also quite hard to fix. The rusted part is a quite big Bart of the cars frame.

2020 Dodge Ram v6 70k miles will not start. See attached video.

Is this one quick disconnect the one I need to drain the fuel tank? The tank at the right is the left saddle tank on the drivers side.

2008 HONDA ODYSSEY LX 3.5L v6

Every now and then the key fob snaps out of run POS I will turn it ever so slowly from RUN POS to get it to stick but now it just keeps snapping back to ON POS and wont stay in RUN have to drive holding the key forward with my right hand lol is this mechanical lock cylinder or electrical? anyone have this issue before ?

Attached is a diagram of how the spark plug had split, everything outside is currently stuck inside the engine.

Good morning all,

Definitely wasn't a good start this weekend when I had attempted to do a spark plug change on a Toyota 86, one fresh spark plug was installed correctly and torqued, another right next to it same process, didn't end up hitting torque? My monkey brain decided to keep going, unfortunately after back and forth of trying to get spark plug out the plug had separated leaving the electrode and threads stuck within the block, and the rest of the plug including the porcelain coming out

is this fixable by a local Subaru specialist?

What turned into a $180 job turned into a weekend nightmare and a car stuck in my mates driveway.

Thank you,

Try not to flame me in the comments as I am a newbie and it seemed fairly simple.

Can anyone please advise how to sort ? I checked wiring and looks fine?

Hi fellow GC fans.

I have an oil leak which at first, looks like an oil pan leak but the oil looks like it is running down from higher up.

Google tells me I have a Mercedes engine and the leak is the valley oil cooler gasket failure.

The Merc has the filter cooler assembly in the valley. My engine has a filter cooler assembly on the side of the engine making me believe I have the mv motori Ecodiesel engine.

So the question is, is there something else in the valley or that area that is leaking and what is it as so far I have not been able to work out what the problem could be.

TIA for your thoughts and comments.

We’re from MA and currently on our way home from a little family road trip to NH, we’re about 60 miles from home. My husband who’s driving all of a sudden says what’s under my foot? And it was a passtime gps device, obviously fully disconnected from anything. I’m assuming it came loose from under the dash/steering column? Well we threw it out the window. After that realized that might have not been a great idea. The car is running fine it’s been at least 15 miles since we threw it. Does anyone think there will be a problem with this? The car is financed, but we haven’t been late or missed a payment.

2011 f150 5.0, recently has been making this noise when starting. Starts fine. Starter problem?

Why is a rear brake job 1-1.2hours, you have to remove caliper to unbolt 1 or 2 of the caliper bracket bolts with ease of access, then remove rotor and complete steps backwards for installation. BUT a rear wheel hub assembly is 0.9 hours, you have to do the SAME job, but now you also have to get an assortment of sockets/extensions/wobble sockets, and possibly adapters, JUST to get the 3-4 bolts that are tucked away. Then put everything back together, including the brakes. If i were to do a head gasket replacement, it would be so stupid to get paid 3 hours instead of 7 hours for example

I know this has been asked a million times but starting to get very frustrated with setting this ring gear up on this gm 8.6. I can't seem to find any pictures that look like the pattern I have here. I feel like it needs more pinion depth but when I add shims to the pinion the pattern moves slightly more to the toe but not really any deeper to the root. The first pic I have a .033 shim and the second is .036 backlash is correct in both pics. Any help would be appreciated.

I do quite a bit of tuning with HP Tuners, along with general automotive diagnostics for customers. I’m looking to expand my diagnostic capabilities with a good bidirectional scan tool, particularly one that can command pressure control solenoid (PCS) current and activate other transmission solenoids for troubleshooting.
I work on a lot of GM vehicles and transmissions, so having solid GM coverage is a priority, but I’d also like something versatile enough to use on other makes and models.
This is something I do as a side business, so I’m not looking to spend thousands on a top-of-the-line professional shop scanner. I’m mainly looking for the most diagnostic capability and functionality for the money, preferably around the $500 range but that’s not a hard budget.
I’d appreciate recommendations from anyone who has firsthand experience with scanners in this price range, especially when it comes to transmission diagnostics and bidirectional controls.

Hey everyone, I have 2 toyota corollas with the 1.8L i4. One is a parts car with a good engine (99), and another one (02) that has a bad bottom end on the motor. I wondering if its posible to use the lower end from the 99 corolla and the head from the 02 corola to make some sort of mismached engine that'll run. The only main diffrence whould be some electrical conectors and the VVT? Is this something thats possible? Or whould i have to swap over the entire wiring harness?