i got my back windshield replaced by a local shop and noticed this after, what exactly is this for? should i be worried? he basically just put the new windshield over top of it

Hi everyone,

I own a 2014 Mazda 6 GJ with the 2.0 Skyactiv-G petrol engine and a 6-speed manual transmission. I'm planning to change the gearbox oil and would appreciate some advice from people who have experience with this car.

According to the owner's manual, the transmission oil capacity is 1.7 litres, but I'd like to confirm whether this is the actual amount needed for a standard drain and refill. Is 1.7 litres correct in practice, or is the real amount different?

I'm currently considering two options:

Option 1: Genuine Mazda Long Life Gear Oil G7

• 4-litre container
• Price: approximately €124
• I would have quite a lot of oil left over after the change.

Option 2: Ravenol MTF-2 75W-80 (Product No. 1221103-001-01-999)

• €21 per litre
• I would buy two 1-litre bottles, costing around €42 in total.

The price difference is quite significant, so I'd like to understand whether the genuine Mazda oil offers any noticeable advantage over Ravenol in terms of shifting quality, cold-weather performance, gearbox protection or long-term durability.

My questions are:

1. Is 1.7 litres the correct gearbox oil capacity for the 6-speed manual transmission in the 2014 Mazda 6 2.0 Skyactiv-G?
2. Is Ravenol MTF-2 75W-80 a suitable alternative to the genuine Mazda G7 oil for this gearbox?
3. Have any of you tried both oils and noticed a difference in gear changes, especially when the gearbox is cold?
4. Would you pay the extra money for the genuine Mazda oil, or would you choose Ravenol instead?

I'd appreciate any advice based on the workshop manual or real-world experience with this particular gearbox.

Thanks in advance!

Finally did the first drain and refill on my '21 GTR at 61k miles. Here's my "comments":

• Way too many fasteners and push-pins need removed to access the drain pan !
• I was cautious and wanted a 2nd set of hands when refilling. I bought this funnel, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D9GNM175?th=1, then decided the funnel itself was awfully small, so I swapped a larger one and used two zip ties to secure. On the other end, I cut a 2" piece of rubber tubing that slips inside the ribbed funnel and used a metal clamp to secure it. I was afraid of it falling out of the fill hole so I held it in the hole while my wife held the funnel and poured in the fluid. Probably wasn't necessary and next time, I'll try it by myself.
• Only 3.5 quarts drained out. As typical, the internet has people say 3.5, 4, 4.5, even 5 quarts drain out. I was on ramps and in my experience, a little less than typical comes out this way. End of the day, it's not that important either.
• Refilled with 1 quart Mazda FZ and 2-1/2 quarts of AISIN ATF-FZ*, 3.5 quarts, used a new crush washer, torqued the drain plug, took it for a drive to see how everything felt (shifting), and also to get the fluid temperature up to ~122º F so I can check the level. Everything feels good too. A less-than-10 minute drive gets it up to 150-160º F, by the way, and it's been sitting an hour and it's still at 145º F last check.
• This only applies to turbo models: You really want to remove the air intake scoop and lower air box (w/ filter) to gain reasonable access to the 10mm attachment bolt and dipstick. You can leave the upper air box, with the MAF, in place and with the car running since it has to be running when you check the level.

Once the level is verified, I'll do the transmission reset/relearn (probably tomorrow).

* I initially bought 4 quarts of AISIN fluid then read more where some people drained 4.5 or 5 quarts, so I wanted to make sure I had enough. I even drained it into a measured (clear) jerrycan and if I started going over 4 quarts draining, I was going to plug it up to make sure more didn't drain out than I had to replace with. I've already ordered 3 more quarts to repeat this, probably next spring or so.

Hey guys. I was on a 3 day weekend trip so I didn’t drive my mazda for that. During the weekend, my area had a very big temperature drop. It was 70 degrees one day and fell all the way down to 30 degrees the next night. When I came back to start it, the lights and display came on, but then it started glitching like crazy. Then when I jump started it, it started right up. The issue is, two warnings came with it: restraint light and front light sensor. Has this happened to anyone else? My battery is only 2 years old.

Was hoping to get the miles down and keep my touring 6 for my last car (60ish old lady here). A semi accidentally pit maneuvered my husband and I on Monday. I loved this car. It was an utterly reliable car with no broken parts or systems to date. And it was such a nice driver.

The good news is:
1. SAFETY! The car kept us safe from catastrophic injury. My husband was 6” from semi bumper for a disconcerting distance as we were pushed down the street.
2. Getting a fair settlement on the value of the car I feel. Bought for $27k in early 2021 and settled for $21k in late 2026.
3. Somewhat reassured about humanity. Truck driver behaved appropriately. People were looking out for each other.

The battery on my 16 Touring died. I tried to pop the hood, and the lever in the car broke. Any ideas on how I can get the hood up? Pulling the cable doesn't do anything.

Checking my bypass flap as I’m getting a flat spot between 1500-2000 rpm and a strange woo woo woo noise, the flap is still secured so the rivet hasn’t failed yet. I could very easily move the actuator arm for it though, and the vacuum line was very easy to remove. Does this sound like the actuator itself is internally broke and the vacuum line perished?
Also there was no gasket between this flange and the boost pipe, should there be one there?

2015 Skyactiv-D, 107,000 miles

Is this a reasonable price? Location: New England

No clue how im still driving. I checked the line because it got stuck badly and yea. Its at the last thread. Anything I should pay attention to or can do to make it easier when changing?

When buying ATF for my mazda 6, I noticed that valvoline restore and protect ATF said it was compatible with the mazda 6 but the spec sheet didn't list any mazda transmissions as being compatible with the ATF; none of the transmissions explicitly listed as being incompatible(cvt and dual clutch) are used by any mazda.

So, I used restore and protect atf on my mazda 6 with 85k miles for its 2nd drain and and fill. So far after 2k miles, shifting is slightly smoother and switching into reverse from any gear is noticeabley better. A groaning sound that could be heard when switching into reverse is noticeabley reduced. I just wanted to post to let people know that this atf works just fine.

2019 Mazda six touring 16.5k with 78,000 miles
2020 Mazda six GTR 22k with 43,000 miles
both have clean Carfax. Good service history no accidents test driving tomorrow.
in Long Island, so Car market prices, especially Used are pretty inflated

As the title suggests, my car is shaking quite alot when on the highway after 65mph. My remote mech has advised to change the parts mentioned in the title. The parts cost around 200-220. The labour is 325. And that’s including the apple carplay installation and screen lense change. Is it a fair price or am I overpaying?

Rip to my 04 Mazda 6, sad to see her like this after years of having her. There she is next to her big sister the speed. The city decided to split the family 😔

Hello,

I am getting a 2021 carbon. Loved the test drive. Is it really true that you can use reg 87 gas and everything will be fine? I thought it would be okay to use reg in an 02 celica gts, but that killed the cat after 8 or 10 years. I do not want to repeat that mistake

I have a base 2017 mazda 6, the base speakers are leave a lot to be desired, are the bose speakers plug and play? Dont wanna have to do any wiring and whatnot. Also for those who have them would they be worth the hassle to upgrade?

88088

Here I am whit this mileage. 😊

Hello everyone,

So as the title says my engine locked up after a carbon clean.

Car: Mazda 6 2016 2.2 Skyactiv-D

I went to start it up, it turned for a second or two and seized. However, it is not locked completely, I can turn it almost a full turn back and forth until it hits something. pistons 1 and 4 move freely up and down, 2 and 3 stops just before TDC.

So far I have removed glow plugs, injectors, valve cover and both camshafts. Inspected valves, they are not stuck (anymore 😄) or bent. There could be a chunk of carbon on top of the pistons, but that should have crushed easily, as thy are very brittle. I can’t look inside the cylinders because the glow plug and injector holes are too small for my borescope.
All that’s left would be the bottom end, but I don’t see how could that be related to carbon clean.

Any ideas anybody?
Thanks

Does the 2012 and 2014 Mazda 6 share the same cylinder head if they are both 2.5l na? My 2014 either has a cracked or warped head and local junkyard has a 2012 Mazda 6 with the 2.5l na do they use the same head?

I am not sure. I found it on AliExpress and I am not sure if it belongs to Mazda. I can't find it on any Mazda 6 or cx 90 etc.

I am thinking this would be an upgrade to the existing light dome on my Mazda 6?

How to wire a lightbar?

Hello,

I'm about to purchase a (used) Mazda6 2.2d se I nav (Skyactiv).

I'm aware of the issues these engines face, such as the DPF and the oil (which can be monitored), but given that I drive on the motorway really often, I don't think that the DPF will be an issue for me.

I'm pondering between a 2016 (118k miles - about 190k km) version from a private seller and a 2015 one (87k miles - about 150k km) from a dealer.

Both have a clean MOT, and they seem to have been properly serviced recently.

The 2016 one is £1000 less than the 2015, but the screen next to the speedometer does not work (speed and rpm meters work fine).

I feel I'm really facing a strong dilemma now because I want to save money, but I also want peace of mind.

Which one do you guys think is the more reliable and value-for-money option?

Thanks