r/machining • • 23h ago

Question/Discussion Machinability Question

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19 Upvotes

This is the upper A arm on the suspension of a car I’m building. I want some advice on if this part is machinable on a 5-axis cnc machine. I am concerned about the cutouts on the inside, but I was hoping that since it’s a 5-axis the machine would be able to come in at an angle and still make the cut.


r/machining • • 1h ago

Manual A little tool we built for our customer. They had one already, but couldn't use it, thanks to a rule about things being made in house.

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• Upvotes

r/machining • • 10h ago

Question/Discussion fist sized brass sledge for electrically sensitive work

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This hammer is to serve as an impact tool for.... Corrections... in physical space of things that need to NEVER spark. It may be heavy and unwieldy to use for extended use. It should feel wrong to use in any normal sense, and it cannot be magnetic field inducing anymore than the handle being steel may entail. I may nickel strike and electroplate copper over the steel handle actually, as copper is diamagnetic, and this may be used in areas where high DC voltage may be around (machine and structural welding for heavy equipment) . As much as it would be a laugh, I don't want this hammer getting magnetized. The user will be using insulated welding gloves in the least, and the hammer is to be electrically grounded when used. If the user does not wear gloves I don't give a fuck how bad it rings his hand and I don't give a fuck if he somehow becomes part of a circuit he didn't know he was gonna be part of.

It must be secure and single piece (it cannot have an eyed handle, where the handle can be replaced. If they knock the head off they can send it back to be recast or TIGged back on after massive beveling and then massive filling). It can be expected to be stored in a case that seals it from weather and general humidity though not much more protection than that.

So I am going to build an open face sand mold frame, and bury a steel bar (3/4 inch diameter round) in it, packing it in such that the end 4 inches of it would come out to a hollow rectangular pour area, 6 inches by 3 inches by 3 inches, centered. The protruding steel bar will also have broad threading such as to form a ribbed shape that can be grabbed onto. As the pour area is meant for a right angle squared mallet that will be machined later, the pour area will be open space essentially. Brass will be poured into securing the brass mallet onto the steel handle. After cooling the steel handle will be wrapped in electrically insulating tape, then wrapped tight with leather which is then corded tight with a cross cording wrapped over the head a couple times. Out the bottom of the handle, a small 3/8 bar will be welded, center aligned, which will come to a loop will be 5/8 inch outer diameter. The small bar will be also electrically insulated up until the loop, to which, a grounding wire can be tied in. The goal is that the only steel exposed is that end loop, and the head will otherwise be the only metal exposed, to be a non sparking leaded brass specifically. I may wrap the head also in replaceable thick lather

I have a 800w 250O rpm steel geared mini lathe capable of turning the handle round bar. I have welders and will be using 7018 stick for welding in the tail ground connector. I will hand shape the head after it is cast with files and power tools. I do not wish to have to drill or mill any part of this. The ground connector can serve as the hangar for hanging it in the electroplate bath as needed. If it cannot support the hammer hanging it is not rugged enough.

I will be making two of these because it is a process I don't wanna do again but I know after I do it once, I will insist on doing it better and "correct"; adjusting things as needed from first craft experience. In the end both hammers must be usable, but one will be for me and our crew (excavation with some natural gas line exposure and environment; hence the need for adjusting things with a thump but really really wanting no sparks against steel, and to be connected to the property ground) and the other one might be sold.

So question one: given the use case, what adjustments to process or this loose order of crafts and tasks should I consider? Sorry for the text wall, trying to be clear about what my bumfuck redneck ass has done ( a bit of everything ) and willing to do (anything that won't kill me most likely) and my relative skill (small to middling). I have time and raw materials a hundred fold over though

If I contracted this hammer to be made, what would be a reasonable price range? I don't make tools much outside my own use or for work crew specific needs, machining and casting are hobbies, welding is a necessary skill I had to pick up that I don't do professionally, so I'm in a weird place of "I make my own everything" (I live far away from civilization in the Rockies) and a lot of what I make being sold and manufactured in slightly different form, probably called something else than I am calling it, but costing way more than I would have and a fair bit more than I'm willing to spend.

I have all the scrap brass, copper, steel, aluminum, lead, etc. I can find a neighbor and get deer or goat or pig leather. I have fields of scrap steel equipment graveyard and an oxy acetylene torch and a metal melting recycling furnace of some advanced nature. I have plenty of sand and can make petrobond. I have a metal shop that is esoteric in inventory but well stocked. I have time. So much time. And I have no money. Nooooo money whatsoever.

Question two: how much could I sell a well made and finished hammer of this very specific nature? I don't need more than one obviously but I am going to make two; and I am broke in the boonies and would love to sell a thing for once in my life instead of buying things to make the next thing always.

Edit: alloys I'm considering are C93700 or alternatively a silicone bronze like C65500 with some antimony added (1 to 2 percent). Willing to consider anything though. Handle alloy could be anything from stainless to mild to perhaps tool steel (although I doubt I can turn good tool steel in my lathe well. Dunno never tried yet)