My father and I decided to go to Home Depot and make our own lightsaber like we had seen on TikTok and other social media trends. We are very excited about the results!

My latest design: TROS Kylo Ren Lightsaber. I haven't really found a completely screen-accurate version of the Kylo Ren hilt, so this was my attempt to make it as close to the real thing as I could. I think it turned out pretty nice. Is it good enough to be considered a "hero" replica?

It doesn't use any glue to assemble, and the threaded frame keeps it tensioned and sturdy. The Kylo Ren belt clip design is probably my least favorite of all the options, but I did manage to get it working too. Plus, the button presses too!

Hey guys, out of curiosity. If I am able to find someone who can do low-cost cnc machining to make mu custom lightsaber, what would be the best material to use? I'd like something lite, but strong for heavy dueling. Do you guys have any suggestions?

I have a Star Wars The Black Series Emperor Palpatine Force FX Elite Lightsaber that sat in my closet for a few years, and I found that one of the batteries were corroded and so I cleaned the battery container and contacts and replaced the old batteries. The blade lights and the buttons work, but the only issue I have is with motion and swinging actions. It will not detect most of the swinging or motion of the blade. What else can I do to fix it? I have tools and I am not afraid to take it a part to clean the insides, or would it be better to get it repaired or upgrade the internal parts. I love the lightsaber and don't want to keep it only as a display piece. Any advice, sites, or YouTube videos I can review to fix this saber?

Obi Wan TPM - Artsabers - Xeno
Darth Maul - Theorysabers - Proffie
Mace Windu - X-tech - Proffie
Cal Kestis - Artsabers - Xeno
ESB Luke Skywalker Graflex - Ultimate Works - Proffie
IV Obi Wan Kenobi - Ultimate Works - Asteria
Darth Vader - TXQ - Proffie
ROTJ Luke Skywalker - Damiensabers - Xeno
Ahsoka Tano - TXQ - Proffie

This one got a custom hybrid brass chassis designed in-house by me. And when I say this hilt is BIG, I mean there was a whole lot of real estate to work with. Rather than leave all that space unused, I decided to take full advantage of it with a tubular outer housing that the battery core slides into and locks securely in place.

The upper crystal chamber is made entirely from brass as well, with a real light-blue quartz point illuminated by a single NeoPixel. The customer opted to keep the brass clean and unweathered, which I think works beautifully with the brass accents on the exterior of the hilt.

The chamber and accent lighting are also visible through the perforated slits in the grip, giving you a glimpse of what’s happening inside without having to take the whole thing apart.

This was a lot of fun to tackle, and a great opportunity to do something a little different with the chassis design. A special thanks to my dude Khal for handling the brass production and helping bring this one to life.

Specs:

* Proffieboard V3 Soundboard

* Custom hybrid brass chassis designed by me

* 28mm Premium Bass Speaker

* Shtok 4-rail PCB system

* Real illuminated light-blue quartz point

* KR Sabers / Shtok illuminated blade PCB emitter

Hi all. Posting because I need some help. This was my best friends lightsaber. I know it was a kit and that he built/painted it himself. He was an Army veteran and suffered from PTSD. 2 years ago he succumbed to alcoholism. I ended up with his Jedi robes and lightsaber. I'm trying to finish his cosplay and wear it to MegaCon next year in his honor.

I could get it to light up by pressing the external button but the sound wasn't working. I plugged it into a charger (27v 0.5a) for 5 minutes and pressed the internal button and heard some sound effects. A light flashed and it made a clicking noise like it was charging. After unplugging it I can't get anything to work. Now I'm worried I broke it. It still lights up and clicks if I plug it back in.

How do I work it, and what are the charging requirements? TIA

Anyone received anything from the Pach Store lately? I have an order that’s been a few weeks, I ordered with the intent to have it before Halloween. I emailed them a couple of days ago about it and have heard nothing. I just want to make sure they’re still in business.

Thank yall for the help the first time around but I need help again!
My stepfather is planning to use his old light saber for a Halloween costume contest and we can’t find the right charger. I was going to check Vire sabers again but I just wanted to see if any helpful redditors could point me in the right direction!

I can’t seem to find a single piece, saber staff that has one button to light up both ends of the staff. I’m looking to see if anyone has any good leads on such design.

Hey! Just got my first Neopixel Saber from Neosabers! I’m working on an outfit for Halloween using it, and combining some of my renaissance and Airsoft gear to make somewhat of a bounty hunter outfit. I figured I’d post it! Lmk what you think! I’ll post a video of the saber as well after cause apparently I can’t do both in the same post.

Well, once again Solo Sabers, LLC. exceeded expectations and delivered a great saber, the Canon-Y Scrap. Additionally, it came just before my birthday. Thank you, Jeremy, for delivering on time and creating a masterpiece. It will live with the previous sabers! #solosabersllc

MTFBWY

Hello again, so I learned the momentary rocker switch I posted the other day is actually too long in the way of depth, which is upsetting to learn.

I now have to find a new switch that is shorter in depth but still remain a rocker style switch. So that leads me to my question. Does anyone know what the depth length is for standard momentary push button switches? I believe knowing the depth will help guide me to finding the correct sized switch for my saber.

I know you guys might be getting tired of my posts, and I apologize for that. I really do appreciate all the advice and suggestions everyone has given, and I do look forward to what everyone has to say.

Ps. Sorry for the terrible grainy picture, but that is the depth length I need to know for finding the proper switch. Thank you again!

I was playing with it and trying to “hit” my hand to have that clash sound then it became stuck with the light and no sound. I cant remove the chassis.. the only button it has doesn’t work.. I dont have a computer to plug in onto.. any ideas on how to reset?

I am currently just letting the battery drain.

I’d like to buy a dueling grade lightsaber (not super heavy duty, I just want to hit things) with tip drag and to keep costs around $300, willing to go to 400. I’m looking at Darkwolf’s website and it says the Xeno3 RBG is good for combat, but the Xeno Pixel seems to have the effects I want, does this mean I can’t use the Xeno Pixel for dueling?

Hello everyone. I have a autographed dark saber signed by Giancarlo Esposito. I’m looking for an acrylic display case for it that is UV protection to help prevent the autograph from fading. Does anyone have any recommendations

Hey everyone. I could use some help and advice. So I've been looking up and down the internet for the type of switch that's recommended for the soundboards that the saver armory sells, and I think I found what I'm looking for. I've already reached out to them about this specific style of momentary switch. However, they have not had any experience with it, so I thought I'd ask here.

Has anyone had any experience with connecting a momentary rocker switch as this to lightsaber soundboards? I've already asked Google about it, and they say "yes, this type of switch is compatible with soundboards that the saber armory uses."

So, before I buy anything, I wanted to ask if anyone has had experience/success with this style of momentary rocker switch for their custom saber builds.

I look forward to everyone's response and advice. Thank you very much in advance.

Full disclosure up front: I run a small lightsaber shop (Exegol Outpost). Not here to sell you anything — this is the same advice I give customers who ask, and half the time it talks them out of spending more money.

Mid-grade blades (2mm wall):
- What nearly every saber ships with, including mine
- Fine for the vast majority of dueling — choreography, light/medium sparring, spinning
- Lighter and brighter (thinner wall diffuses the light better)

Heavy grade (3mm wall):
- Noticeably heavier and stiffer
- Built for full-contact dueling — the kind where you're actually trying to hit hard
- Trade-off: dimmer blade, more tip-heavy feel

-most people asking about heavy-grade don't need it. If you're dueling full-contact, you also need safety gear (mask, gloves, ideally some armor) — at that point the blade is the least of your concerns. For everything else, mid-grade holds up fine.

The one exception: if you're a hard hitter doing repeated full-force contact, heavy-grade will outlast mid-grade. No way around physics.

One more thing worth knowing: no matter the blade grade, the tip is the most likely failure point — it's the weakest part of the whole assembly. A tip coming off mid-duel turns the blade into an open tube, and can send a tip and/or broken pieces hurtling at impressive speeds-which can be genuinely dangerous, especially with heavy contact. Check your tips regularly and replace the blade if the tip ever feels loose.

I wrote a longer version with maintenance tips here:

https://thehiltandblade.com/lightsaber-maintenance-guide/

Happy to answer blade/electronics questions in the comments.

I'm doing a Baylan Skoll cosplay. Studying way too much fine detail stuff - anyway...

All of the really nice light sabers I see sold for it have a brass colored pommel. Yet, when I watch the show and take still frames every single frame I can capture, it looks black to me.

Am I nuts? Color blind? Or is there some known factor about this that I'm unaware of like it changed midway through filming, or lighting made it look black but was really brass? etc.

This is a new parts series I've been working on for the Basesaber app. Curious to hear what you all think!