Hi everyone.

I’ve inherited my grandfather’s Sweetheart #4 and #5 Stanley Planes. I’m currently flattening the #5’s sole with sand paper duct taped to an old smooth glass cutting board.

It’s real pitted as you can see from the first picture which is what it looked like when I started. The second and third pictures show where I’m at currently after a lot of sanding.

Unfortunately, the pitting on the sole is the deepest right around the mouth of the plane as you can see in the third picture.

My question to you all is: you figure I should just keep sanding it down until I sand past all the pitting, or would the best course of action be to use some kind of metal epoxy to fill it and then sand it flat.

My only worry about continuing to sand it down is how much thickness I need to sand down to eliminate the deepest pitting, and the possibility of making the plane weaker. I’d hate to do something that leads to me destroying a family heirloom during its use.

I’m looking for a bedrock style jack plane, I’m not interested in paying the crazy Stanley prices, but I’d like to get a vintage tool if possible. Did anyone other than Stanley (sergeant/ craftsman etc) produce bedrock style planes? Or am I better off just going with something new manufacture, like taytools for example.

I got myself a nice number 6 (type 11 like my 5 and 4) and it is a bit of a frankenplane. It has a Millers Fall tote, and a hock-type blade (not hock, though) with the standard chip breaker. The blade assembly is too thick, so I need to widen the mouth a touch.

I'm wondering for the few of you have a number 6 incorporated into their work flow, how do you use yours? I'm debating how much to widen the mouth, and how to configure the blade. I'd just love to hear your thoughts on how best to use this under utilized (perhaps rightly so) plane.

Thanks!

What make/model spokeshave did I pick up for $1 at a yard sale? Is it any good for woodworking?

Hi there, I'm a noob and hope this is an appropriate ask/place to post - I'm getting into handtools, and thus far have used a Jorgenson 10 inch smooth plane for my planing. quite unsuccessfully, but user error im sure.

I saw these 3 (pictured) on sale for $20 total so thought I might as well see if its at least an educational take-apart-and-put-back-together experience. Anyway, can anyone help me understand what I have on my hands, and tips on what / if to use? Assume I know absolutely nothing. Lol. Thank you!!!

my great grandfather was a tool and die maker from sweden and am trying to figure out if this was something he made or if he got it at sears, before i open it up and see whats behind the panel, possibly destroying it in the process

top piece broke off, weird grain direction but to be fair im kinda proud of it

Hello, hope everyone is well.

My great grandads saw, which is a good near 100 years old. It has been broken quite spectacularly by my grandad, after I painstakingly sharpened it and set the teeth.

Due to the importance of the saw, I would like to hear some opinions and get some guidance on the best way to repair it.

This could be through additional things, such as dowels and etc. However I would like to keep it as original as I can.

Any feedback and advice would be very appreciated.

Thanks

Hey everyone, im pretty new to this so if im not using the correct terminology please forgive me.

Ive just began cutting dovetails, i bought a Pax gents saw 20tpi for this, and it worked horrendously, it got stuck, made an awful noise and wandered. Just to try something out i used the rip side of my ryoba saw and it went so much smoother, faster and easier.

Now, did i make a bad purcahse of my Pax saw or is it generally easier with japanese pull saws? Id greatly appreciate if anyone could recommend a western and japanese saw suitable for a beginner and tell me why you like it.

Thanks

Hi, I’m a beginner and could use some advice. I’m sharpening the PM‑V11 blade from my Veritas low-angle block plane with a Veritas Mk.II honing guide.

I followed the guide’s setup instructions and a tutorial:

• Set the blade carrier to 2 (yellow / standard angle).
• Set the registration stop to 25° on the yellow scale.
• Aligned the registration jig pointer with the blade’s width, about 4 cm / 1½ inches.
• Seated the blade against the fence and stop, then tightened both clamp knobs evenly.
• Honed on a Naniwa 1000 grit stone with the micro-bevel knob at 12 o’clock, then used 3000 grit.
• Moved the micro-bevel knob to 6 o’clock for the micro-bevel.

The main bevel and the smaller micro-bevel are both visible, but the micro-bevel is noticeably uneven across the blade: it’s much wider at one end than the other. I took the blade out and started over, carefully repeating the setup, and got the same result.

What could cause this if the blade is seated against the fence and stop? Could the existing cutting edge or primary bevel be out of square, or am I missing something about the guide or the roller? Any beginner-friendly troubleshooting advice would be appreciated.

Can anyone help me identify a manufacturer? Only markings I see are "Made in USA" and "No.05" and presumably the former owners name. Recently purchased from an antique store.

Just bought this antique plane, and I can’t find anything like it documented anywhere, including my reference book for hand planes and a good bit of online searching. The seller mentioned something about airtight casework in the listing. However, I don’t see how that would work without an accompanying plane that makes a tongue for the groove. It appears to cut both a rabbet and a groove. Could anyone provide any insight? Thanks

If anyone knows the manufacture date as well I’d like to know.

I wanted this bookmatched crotch seam to be the lid of my box but it looks unbalanced unless the grain is oriented vertically. This will cause seasonal expansion across different axes. Will constructing it this way work? Can I just leave bigger gaps in the tongue and groove? Any advice appreciated. I’ve only made boxes where the seam/grain is oriented in same orientation as long side of box.

I am completely new to woodworking and hand tools. I have a few hand tools and some simple projects to get me started, and have done a lot of research about it. But when I get to actually doing anything with wood, I get stuck on one annoyingly basic problem; I can't get my wood to stop wiggling around when I try to saw through it. Same problem when I try to use my hand planes. I have some basic clamps and a workbench with a tail vice I am using. Is the problem the clamps? Are my hands just not strong enough? Are my tools not sharp enough? I can't really even get started on anything if my wood won't stay still. Any advice?

I own two nice hand planes, but no matter how many YouTube videos I watch, I feel like I’m using them incorrectly most of the time. I’d like to use them correctly, but I’m not sure where to go from here. Any suggestions?

Just picked this up today. I got it at an estate sale for $100 but it is missing its adjuster. Does anyone know which one I should buy from veritas?

Literally just took it out of the box.

Saw at a garage sale, I was curious but didn’t buy it.

Probably from the 1980s, so is it still a worthwhile saw?

Got this infill plane on ebay for £27. The bottom is pitted to heck. Has anyone made a user out of something in similar condition or is it a write off, did 20 mins of fettling but dont have much time due to having a baby.

This plane is an absolute joy to use. Had been keeping an eye out for one for a bit and finally snagged one that was never used.

Сделал себе на днях два инструмента. Гладилка-ковырялка из старого надфиля, а маленькая стамеска из пилки для электролобзика, доводил на мелкозернистой точильном камне.