Just need a basic metal door but want a high dp rating. The big box stores don't even list a dp rating for the doors they sell.

climate: Phoenix, AZ

fyi,
Design Pressure (DP) — This rating indicates the door's ability to withstand wind loads; for example, a DP-20 rating can handle winds up to 90 MPH.

Hi all I’m hoping this is the right place for advice on managing condensation in my garage as i seem to find conflicting advice on whether to seal it up or add ventilation.

Some context- I have a new build brick single garage, its standalone with a pitched roof that was used previously as the site office and so it has insulation, plasterboard walls, electrics etc and there are air vents in the roof tiles and along the soffits. I’ve fitted carpet tiles and It’s got an up and over metal door with no insulation.

In winter I get visible condensation my motorbikes, tools etc which has led to surface corrosion and have had clothing start to grow mould . I have previously used disposable desiccant dehumidifiers and they seem to help but it’s not ideal.

I seem to find conflicting advice about whether to:
1- drill some holes too and bottom and add more vents,

2- Just add fans to move the air so it escapes out of existing vents and under the garage door

3- seal up and insulate the main door and add a desiccant dehumidifier like a meaco dd8l.

Very different approaches and I don’t know what is better in my situation as the garage itself is likely much more insulated that most which may help or hinder a solution put in place

I had a leak so decided to fix it and take opportunity to redo siding only to discover the reason for the leak is a complete lack of flashing where a roof line run along the exterior wall. Anyway my contractor suggested we would need to strip the singles back to add ice and water up the wall, reshimgle, the siding. Then we decide to strip the whole section of roof and replace with steel.

We stripped all the shingles only to discover the previous roofer put cheap ice and water over the old singles. I’m angry since I just did this 5 years ago and they were supposed to strip to decking. My contractor said trying to get those up will damage the sheathing under it which will mess up my spray foam in the ceiling below.

So here is my conundrum. Since the current assembly has that ice and water as a vapor barrier already, I want to add 2 inches of polyiso, new sheathing and the ice and water and then the steel roof. What should I be concerned about?

We're building a house on a hillside with great views. The concrete frame is done and the walls aren't built yet, so the layout can still change. Plans attached.

Fixed things:

- 9.1 × 10.5 m outside. Entrance on the north, terrace and city view to the south.

- U-stair in the north-west corner (3.6 × 2.2 m).

- The west wall has to stay blank: the neighbour is 1.2 m away, so no windows on that side.

- Bedrooms are upstairs. The upstairs bathroom will probably sit on the west, next to the stairs (it still can be modified)

The options:

1. Bathroom + WC (3.6 × 2.3) and kitchen on the blank west wall. Living room with fireplace + TV on the east, study in the north-east corner.

2. Same as 1, but a bedroom in the north-east corner.

3. Bathroom + WC in the north-east (with windows), kitchen on the east. Laundry + storage next to the stairs. Living room on the west, fireplace + TV on the west wall.

4. Bathroom, WC and kitchen on the east. The whole west side is one 3.6 × 7.5 m living room: fireplace on the stair wall, TV + books on the west wall.

Which would you choose and why? Anything you'd change, or anything I'm missing?

Aerogel is being hyped like the best of all? But when I got some silicon aerogel powders in some solvent, it doesn't look like they can do any jobs that traditional insulations can do? It also looks very powdery and fragile. Could anyone expert in this explain it to me please?