Anyone with a Zotac RTX 5080 AMP Extreme Infinity? What stable MSI Afterburner undervolt settings are you using for stock-like performance with lower temps/power?

Title: RTX 5090 RMA with Zotac. Anyone have any recent positive experiences?

My Zotac RTX 5090 has been giving me problems pretty much since I bought it last year.

Any serious gaming with ray tracing enabled would eventually result in the dreaded black screen crash. The only way I could consistently prevent it was by limiting the GPU's power and capping my FPS.

I tried countless drivers, troubleshooting steps, and different settings, but nothing ever permanently resolved the issue.

I finally bit the bullet and sent the card to Zotac for an RMA. It was actually delivered to their Southern California facility today, so I'm hoping to hear something from them tomorrow.

Here's what has me genuinely worried, though.

Given the current state of the GPU market and the absolutely ridiculous prices RTX 5090s are going for, what happens if Zotac determines my card can't be repaired but doesn't have any replacement units available?

My particular model, the Zotac RTX 5090 Solid OC, has already been discontinued, which makes me even more nervous.

I've read so many RMA horror stories involving different AIB manufacturers here on Reddit, and I'm starting to wonder if I'm in for a nightmare of my own.

Has anyone here gone through a 5090 RMA recently, particularly with Zotac?

I'd really appreciate hearing some positive experiences for a change, especially from anyone who received a replacement card rather than a repair.

There's some kind of whirring sound coming out of my graphics card and on the outside theres no cable touching it, and inside too as far as I've noticed. It's been sounding like this since I deep cleaned it after no use of 5 years. Im thinking of ordering these fans. Some people say the screws dont fit. So im ordering these after asking google ai. Will this be okay?

I've owned this ZOTAC ZBOX MAGNUS ONE ECM53060C for nearly five years, and I've had to deal with quite a few of its shortcomings over that time. I'm sharing this in case it helps other owners of this model, or potentially other ZBOX models with similar hardware and PCIe layouts.

Symptoms

• The RTX 3060 stopped outputting a display through DisplayPort.
• The system sometimes gave 5 beeps when trying to use the dedicated GPU.
• I had to connect HDMI to the motherboard to get a display and boot into Windows, using the Intel integrated graphics. The RTX 3060's DisplayPort wasn't giving me a signal.
• In Device Manager, the RTX 3060 was greyed out with Code 45: “This hardware device is not connected to the computer.”
• The GPU fans were spinning, but Windows wasn't detecting the card.
• I had previously experienced VIDEO_TDR_FAILURE (0x116) and LiveKernelEvent 141 crashes.

What I tried

• Used motherboard HDMI to access Windows while the RTX 3060 wasn't detected.
• Tested the display connections.
• Checked the GPU's power connections, including the adjacent 8-pin connectors.
• Reseated the RTX 3060 itself.
• The GPU remained undetected. I couldn't access the internal PCIe extension connection without removing the ZBOX motherboard.

What finally worked

With the monitor connected to motherboard HDMI so I could access the BIOS, I selected Load BIOS Defaults.

After doing that:

• Windows detected the RTX 3060 again.
• The NVIDIA driver appeared in Windows.
• I connected DisplayPort directly to the RTX 3060, and it worked normally again.

I didn't need to remove the CMOS battery or disconnect the internal PCIe extension to get it working this time.

This happened to me before, around two years ago

I experienced a similar GPU problem roughly two years ago. I eventually got it working again, but I couldn't pinpoint the actual fix because I did several things at once, including reseating the CMOS battery and reseating the GPU.

Since I changed multiple things together, I couldn't tell which action had resolved the problem. This time, loading BIOS defaults restored GPU detection, which gave me a much clearer lead.

Other possible fix to try

If loading BIOS defaults doesn't help, clearing CMOS or reseating the CMOS battery might be worth considering as another troubleshooting step. I haven't isolated or confirmed this as a fix, so treat it as a possibility rather than a proven solution. Check the model's service instructions before attempting it.

Could this help other ZBOX models?

Possibly. Other ZBOX models with similar compact motherboard designs, dedicated GPUs, and internal PCIe extensions may experience similar PCIe initialization or firmware-configuration issues. Loading BIOS defaults—or, as a separate unconfirmed option, clearing CMOS—may be worth trying on those systems too.

This is only a possibility, not a confirmed fix across other models. BIOS options and hardware layouts differ by model, so check the documentation for your specific ZBOX.

My takeaway

After nearly five years with this machine, I've learned how frustrating it can be to troubleshoot its proprietary compact hardware. In my case, reseating the GPU and checking its power connections didn't resolve the problem. I could only get a display through HDMI connected to the motherboard, while the RTX 3060 was missing from Windows and its DisplayPort output didn't work.

Loading BIOS defaults restored GPU detection, and DisplayPort worked again.

I suspect the issue may have involved BIOS/PCIe initialization, possibly interacting with the ZBOX's proprietary motherboard layout and internal PCIe extension. However, I haven't confirmed the exact cause, and this doesn't prove that the motherboard or extension is defective.

If your ZBOX has similar symptoms, try booting through motherboard HDMI and selecting “Load BIOS Defaults” before dismantling the system or replacing the GPU. Record any custom BIOS settings first, since restoring defaults may change them.

I'll update this post if the crashes return after further testing.

What is the exact thickness of the thermal pads on the graphics card?

Do i need to understand volt my zotac 5090 solid oc, I have a wireview pro 2 and current levels are good and level

Hey,
I'm currently thinking about upgrading my PC with the Zotac 5080 AMP Infinity.
Heard lots of stuff about annoying fan noise aswell as buzzing fans after just a few weeks of use.
Did Zotac fix these issues in new batches or is there still a risk?
How's the general noise level of this card? If i were to buy this card i would mount it vertically in a Hyte Y70 Case and since the Case is pretty open noise in general is quite noticeable.
I live in Europe so the 5 year warranty is a huge advantage but i don't wanna run into RMA Stuff after just a few months.
Would appreciate any and every input from cardowners of this model!

hi, I plan to change the thermal pads and thermal paste of my gpu. I have thw arctic mx-6 thermal paste however, I do not know what thermal pads to buy and the size to consider. Can anyone help out? Thank you

You aint dying today

I have snt my card for rma and ended up getting another card , which is already been used , it has clear signs of previous use and a very visible scratch on the gold portion part made by a sharp object which cuts throught 3 gold finger like contact . Card is working fine but service centre told me they have given me a new card but ended up give a previous used card

Men sht already done rma after 2 years went to this again cant afford buy new one should i get repair for my local tech?

I recently got my pc from the states shipped (I’m military)

And after the damages it went through in shipping I rebuilt my system and found that while my gpu works and shows pictures and runs under load the fans are causing issues.

One fan runs at a constant 1200rpm (increasing under load but never stops)

And the others aren’t being read in software showing 0rpm but running normally aka idle or ramping up etc.

It’s quite annoying because it’s loud as heck.

Should I open the card myself and look at the connectors? I imagine it’s a loose or maybe something wrong with the pwm or send it in.

I don’t have the original boxes with me so I’d have to package it safely myself to send it in. But I’m also tired of just not having my stuff moving overseas and dealing with expense after expense.

I should’ve taken better steps in the shipping process but I’m dealing with the issue now and would want your guys advice.

Hi everyone,

Iam currently in an RMA with Zotac Europe and I’m not sure how to proceed, so I would love to hear from anyone who’s been in a similar situation.

The card: Zotac RTX 4090 AMP Extreme AIRO, bought around 3 years ago. I registered for the extended warranty right after purchase, so it’s still covered for 2 more years.

What happened: A few days ago the card crashed mid-game. After that my PC kept turning itself on and off, and on reboot I kept losing the display signal (tried different DP ports, same issue,also tried Nvidia driver updates and such). Once I got into Windows, Reliability Monitor showed multiple hardware errors . A clean driver update didn’t help. Now small black dots/artifacts show up on screen, more over time, and in different places after every reboot. I’m pretty sure it could be an VRAM issue.

Zotac’s response so far:

• Support replied quickly, credit where it’s due.
• My model is out of stock and they don’t expect to get it back.
• They offered a 4090 Trinity OC as a replacement (it has a bit slower MHz tact and boost than my AMP Extreme, and it’s a lower tier with a different cooler).
• When I asked for an equivalent or higher model, they said no.
• When I asked them to repair my own card, they said the only two options are: wait until a matching 4090 comes back in stock (which might be never, since the 4090 is discontinued) or take the Trinity OC.

I paid for the top-tier model at that time and I use this card for my self-employed video editing work, so it’s not just a gaming thing for me.

My questions:

1. Has anyone had Zotac Europe actually repair a card instead of replacing it?
2. Has anyone gotten an upgrade or an equivalent card after pushing back on a lower-tier replacement?
3. Is it worth escalating, or should I just take the Trinity OC?
4. Any experience with independent repair shops for VRAM replacement on a 4090?

My situation really sucks, I belived spending so much on a higher tier card would last me longer :(

EDIT: thanks to all the responses I took the other 4090, I guess I am lucky - its just that I really liked the cooler of my 4090 because it was fantastic and quiet. Thanks everyone!

Should I be concerned? The thermal paste is fine, but I noticed that one of the memory slots was missing its thermal pad. I added one later (highlighted in the photos), but it is a different color from the rest. The card runs fine during hours of gaming, but the temperature monitor readings are making me nervous.

Hola a todos, quería preguntar si alguien sabe el porque siempre que inició un juego. Este se crashea. Mostrando siempre esto y no me deja jugar ningún juego y por ende quería saber si esto es problema de la gráfica o toca configurar algo en la BIOS, además ya tengo actualizada la BIOS a la última versión

I posted in the sub a few weeks back about my RMA on a 5070ti the last update I got from zotac rma team was September 21st saying they received my gpu. Since I hadn’t heard anything back I emailed them asking if there had been any updates on what’s happening with the card they sent me this email back. I’m just wondering how long yall think the wait is gonna be and if anyone else is going thru this or has been

Hi everyone, want to ask a bit is this normal temp? I already repaste using artic mx-4 and repade the front plate using thermal pad oddysey. Bfr i repaste & repade the temp reach 90+ while hotspot reach 109+.

Hi, I'm sharing this in case anyone thinks their graphics card is running too hot and wants to try it. Compared to thermal paste (MX7), it's about 5 degrees cooler. It heats up slower and cools down faster. Those who want to try it should be careful not to damage their card.I've shared my MSI Afterburner settings. To get it to draw 380 watts, set the power limit to 105 in the Furmark test.

Anybody else found this whines once under load and how have you adjusted setting to solve it?