Recently fixed an idle issue (Today) car idles perfectly fine now, and sounds better than ever before.

It will floor and rev up to redline just fine, but it seems if I press off the gas to fast it will shudder and die.

Revving it to about 4000 it will do the same.

Will start up perfectly fine and no other issues of note.

This is my 91 Volvo 740, while looking into transmission swaps, I wanted something that could hold decent power, was readily available, and cheaper then other swaps. After coming across an adapter plate to pair an RX8 6 speed to a B230F I started collecting parts. Got the transmission in the car this weekend with the help from a buddy. Using a stock flywheel and pressure plate, clutch from (i think) a Ford Capri, Wilwood clutch pedal and master. So far everything has gone quite smoothly and with the trans in the car the hard part is over. Next on the docket is making a plate to bolt the trans to the OEM auto transmission mount, and shortening the driveshaft. I plan on making a better written and formatted post when its completely finished giving a better overview of how to do it yourself.

First RPM surge is me pressing the gas.

Everything else isn't me.

Seemingly fixed the idle (Adjusted the throttle stop scew)

Sometimes it will stall rather than shudder.

Hi,
I recently bought a Volvo 940 that was imported from Switzerland. It has a Brink tow bar fitted. When I checked the data plate under the bonnet, I noticed that the maximum permissible combination weight (car plus trailer) is not filled in. The gross vehicle weight and axle load fields are there, but the field for the combination weight is blank. Has anyone with a 940 (or a 740/760//960) seen a plate with no combination weight? I’m asking because in my country a vehicle cannot legally tow a trailer without this figure being documented.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3PPogtdqAs

It was working fine the day before.

I went to go use it and at idle it idles at 1200rpm or so. Press on the gas it will go, and surge from 1500rpm to 2100rpm for about 2 seconds then rev up fine. Then go back to idling poorly. Sometimes if you let off the gas to fast it'll shutter off (Ive checked for vac leaks)

Other times when starting it'll idle properly then just shutter off

Then other times it'll just bounce from 500rpm to 2000rpm

Ive cleaned the IACV hasn't changed much, and I cant seem to find a replacement and Google says Regina and bosch ones aren't interchangeable

Googling into it, it sounds like it could be temperature related but im not sure where to even start.

Title. 1994 b200f 940

The good: Southern car with ZERO rust. It's got an upgraded stereo system with Bluetooth and hands-free calling. The heated seats work. It's got fresh studded snow tires.

The bad: The horn doesn't work. It's blowing oil out the filler cap and it idles rough.

My detective work seems to point to the rough idle and weeping of oil coming from a bad PCV valve, so I ordered a new one off IPD and we're going to see if that helps.

No idea what's up with the horn, but I'm afraid it's something inside the steering wheel.

I'd love to hear from other folks about things I should be watching out for with a car of this vintage. My goal is to spend the minimum possible money to make this a reliable ride for tooting around town.

I have had this car 20 years, bought in new Jersey, had trucked to Seattle, have slowly done what I can, going to retire and down size, I just don't drive any more and just sits in the garage, 3 speed auto duel stromburg carb set up. 70,000 original miles, this car is almost totally original, I put new brakes and electronic ignition on it obviously tires and wheels, no rust wheel wells are pristine, Seattle areas. any ideas as to price or value. still haven't totally decided to sell, but getting there, always been garaged.

Still need to adjust the ride height up front a little bit but spacers and white walls are off and Corsa 16x9 w/ 205/40 are on

What all is needed to make this work? Seeing mixed information online, but is just the standard fender roll/shave enough? Do you rub? Pictures of any necessary mods would be appreciated

Solved! The problem was the aftermarket AMM.

Hello i’m having issues with my 940 idling at 1100rpms and it dropping to 1000 every 3 seconds ish, i also have problems with it having "leanpops" when i blip the throttle fast but ONLY under 2k rpm. It happens when it is cold and warm🤷🏻‍♂️ the o2 sensor seems fine, new MAF from pierburg (can’t find a bosch) the tps seems fine and same with the IAC valve. Tried spraying with startgass around all the intakes but still nothing🤷🏻‍♂️ i’m going to change the temp sensor tomorrow to see if that changes anything👍 any tips would be appreciated a lot😊

Hello I have a 1990 Volvo 780 Bertone that has been having rough idle. I figured it is the coolant temp sensor causing the idle issue but I can’t seem to unbolt it with my ratchet to replace it. I have tried putting lubricant and applying a little heat, no luck. Im not too experienced with cars and worried about breaking off the bolt, any tips?

I’ve had the car for a couple weeks now. When i purchased the one thing that needed to be addressed is the idle was really high in park it would sit at 2000 rpms in drive or neutral it would sit at 1500-1000 rpms. A couple days ago i removed the throttle body and IAC, cleaned them really good with throttle body cleaner and put it back together. NOW its idling too low, sometimes it seems like it will sit where it needs to at 800ish but especially on cold start if i don’t pump the gas pedal the rpm’s drop and it stalls out. I’ve also noticing sitting low around 300 and lower. It’s not really consistent with where it sits in idle, now but it is on the lower end with tendency to drop all the way down to stall. Any thoughts, things to check. I’m avoiding the temptation to adjust the throttle cable i’ve heard more likely it could be the IAC is bad? Or the TPS is bad? or the throttle plate isn’t seating all the way flat when it should be? Thoughts on how to diagnose, what to do?

Where i live and online is a barren wasteland for volvo enjoyers and i have a 740 non turbo with a messed up fuel sender. That said, anyone know if I can put a 1992 turbo 940 sending unit into the 740 and have it still work? Ik the turbo should be a Bosch system and the non regina but the senders really look the same to me and I dont think an aftermarket regina exists right now

As the title says, I'm looking for readily available options to have a adjustable rear spring and shock setup, in the front I'll be running E46 coilovers with adaptors, will the E46 springs fit in the rear with the adjustable spring perches? They look way too short, will be a budget drift car.

Hey everyone,

Does someone has managed to make the headlight wipers move in synchro with the windshield wipers or via a separate button ?

I've got the case last winter that a lot of snow build up on the headlights during a blizzard i found myself in and wanted to use my wipers.

Thanks

I'm having an interesting issue with it right now. This video was taken with the MAP sensor unplugged but with the vacuum line still attached. The car will hold an rpm when I give it gas but as soon as the rpm drops it won't idle, it sputters out almost instantly. There's also that metallic sound but I'm going to work and try to find out what's causing it tomorrow.

With the MAP plugged in I get a few seconds of run time and then the car dies by itself or when given any amount of throttle (rpms don't rise and then fall car dies as soon as input it given.)

Idle air valve opens when doing a diagnostic thing (hold the button for 1 second 3 times) with the obd port and when given power directly, I can supply it with 12v and see the valve move. I gave It a nice spray of some penetrating oil but didn't seem to improve anything.

Using socket 2, the codes I got were 1-2-2 (intake air temperature sensor), and 2-2-3 (idle air valve issue somewhere).

I'm starting to run out of ideas, the car running when the MAP is unplugged makes 0 sense to me. Fuel pressure and fuel filter is all good.

Is it possible it might be the throttle position sensor or something?

There are 3 sensors currently not plugged in due to connectors/wires/not fitting. Knock sensor, oil pressure sending unit, and a sensor that attaches to the passenger side of the radiator (if anyone knows what it is please tell me)

Any replies will be helpful, don't be afraid to ask for clarification or details on things. Thanks.

Looking to refresh my suspension this winter, right now the rear is sagging a bit compared to the front. I very much still want it to be comfortable, but wouldn't mind a little lower stance, and not have its butt dragging like it is now.

What is the OEM+ not hot boi combination you all recommend?

Researched loads but still confused!
Looking at putting original springs back onto dropped Volvo (moved to the countryside and bottoming out on the bad roads) are these nivomat or standard?