Sold to me for $200 as junk but it actually works fine. It was just a bit dusty. Super stoked now

Just to know if they are banned in this subreddit...

Looking to get one of the mini consoles, I know they're expensive, but the Japanese import one is a bit less so, and I'm wondering if all region consoles have all languages of the games they have or if they're region locked.

Also, I guess I should ask if the PC Engine Mini has a menu language selector, too. lol.

Hoping someone has encountered these in the past and I won’t have I go the custom route.

Looking for a silicone/TPU case for the Pc Engine GT.
Ideally will help prevent wear and tear from normal use.

Cheers everyone

I got my first Core Grafx a couple of months ago and I gave it a proper refurbishment and cleaning, including cleaning the power switch with 99% Alcohol to make sure it cleanly switches.

Flash forward to a couple months later, I go to turn it on to play and for the life of me I can't switch the power to on. The only way I can turn it on is to open the console and switch it over without using the green plastic overlay which is obviously not ideal.

Idk I've never had an issue like this. My only plan of action I can think of is to clean the switch using electronic cleaner to try and loosen it. Has anyone ever had an issue like this before?

I'm looking for a solution to replace the ribbon cable on my PC Engine GT, from the cartridge port to the motherboard.

Anyone coming to Portland OR this year for the Portland Retro Gaming Expo? I’ll have a Guinea Pig Games booth there (421 ). If anyone is attending, please drop by and say hello!

The video gameplay link is here

I was digging through a box a vhs and found this and the guy next to the table saw it and kept trying to get me not to buy it for some reason?
Is it worth stuff?

I've never seen the real complete package before ! but the price !

A Brazilian Portuguese menu for the Turbo EverDrive PRO (PC Engine / TurboGrafx-16), with game box art, ready-made cheats and custom backgrounds — plus an app that gets the SD card ready in a few clicks.

A Maniaco Game Room project.

A few photos of the TurboGrafx and PCE hardware as seen at LincCon 2026, held in Merrill Wisconsin over the weekend. They were celebrating their 16th year, and had an "All TurboGrafx" theme.

Not an ad. I picked this up on AliExpress during a sale. I know there are a lot of superior products out there but I just wanted to see 60fps flicker again. This solved the problem. I think it should be a bare minimum requirement for anyone that can’t get access to RGB out like from a Duo or TurboGrafx CD. It definitely works. What I didn’t realize is almost no TV can manage the interlacing from devices outputting resolutions around 240p therefore so needs something in between to solve the problem.

I Love This Star Parodier Game

I wanted to share my troubleshooting process in case it helps someone else working on an old PC Engine Duo.
My black Japanese PC Engine Duo was reading and running CD games normally. PSG audio and ADPCM audio were working, but CD-DA audio was completely missing.
The board had significant electrolyte capacitor leakage, so I decided to trace the CD-DA circuit instead of simply replacing ICs at random.
I started following the signal through the circuit, including IC504 and IC521.
I also found an issue with pin 4 of IC521. It had no continuity to ground, even though the circuit indicated that this pin should be connected to GND. After confirming the connection in the schematic, I restored the ground connection.
The next important part of the investigation was IC505.
I found that IC505 is not simply an audio amplifier. It is part of the CD-DA attenuation/control stage. It receives the audio signal, but it also depends on the VOL1 control signal, which determines whether the audio is allowed through or attenuated.
This turned out to be a very important clue.
I measured the AC signal at the inputs of IC505 and was getting approximately 0.2–0.25 V AC on the relevant input points. The signals were very similar, which told me that the CD-DA signal was actually reaching IC505.
However, when I measured the output of IC505, I was getting essentially 0 V AC.
So the problem was not simply “there is no CD-DA signal.”
The signal was reaching the IC, but it wasn’t coming out.
I then started tracing the VOL1 control line back toward IC501. IC501 is involved in generating the control signal that ultimately reaches the circuitry controlling IC505.
This led me to another suspicious area around C612 and pin 8 of IC505.
The solder pad around pin 8 appeared to have a connection on both sides of the PCB, but I could not establish continuity between those two areas. Considering the amount of electrolyte leakage on this board, a corroded via or internal PCB connection became a very real possibility.
So the simplified way I understand the circuit now is:
CD-DA audio signal → IC504 / IC521 stages → IC505 → audio output
while separately:
IC501 → VOL1 → IC505
The VOL1 signal is important because it controls the attenuation of the CD-DA signal at IC505.
That means if the CD-DA signal is present at IC505 but VOL1 is missing or not reaching the correct pin, the IC505 stage can effectively prevent the audio from getting through.
The main lesson
For anyone troubleshooting a Duo with working PSG/ADPCM but no CD-DA, I would not immediately assume that the CD audio isn’t being generated.
It’s worth checking:
CD-DA signal entering IC504/IC521
Continuity through the IC504/IC521 section
IC521 pin 4 and its ground connection
CD-DA signal reaching IC505
IC505 power supply
VOL1 signal
Continuity from the VOL1 control circuitry around IC501 toward IC505
Especially the PCB traces, vias and connections around C612 and IC505 pin 8
The biggest thing I learned is that IC505 needs both the audio signal and the correct control signal (VOL1). Having CD-DA present at the input does not necessarily mean it will appear at the output.
Because these Duos are notorious for electrolyte leakage, I would also recommend checking continuity with a meter rather than trusting the appearance of the traces. A trace or via can look completely normal and still be electrically open.
I’m still working through the final fault on mine, but tracing the signal this way has narrowed the problem down considerably.
Hopefully this helps someone else who runs into the same CD-DA-only audio failure on a PC Engine Duo.

Tbh I want a Turboexpress or PC engine GT but one thats already been worked on, I tried looking at ebay but that place seems to be all over the place on units so was curious if there was a good place to buy one?