I'm new to reloading. I wanted to know if I could make a safe load with: Remington nitro 27 hull, cci 209 primers, Hodgdon Longshot powder, and 00buckshot. Anyone know if these are a good combo?

Hello, I want to start shotshell reloading and I have some questions.

1.If possible I want to do this without any expensive equipment, I know you can reload by gluing an over shot card to the the hull or by using a roll crimp. If I do this, what indicators am I looking for to see if a hull is fit to be reloaded? the most common one I've seen online is when the petals split apart, which obviously doesn't apply.

If I make loads like this, Is there any reason It wouldn't cycle in my pump? Its a maverick 88

1. I would like to make low recoil loads. I see a lot of "always follow a trusted recipe" which of course Is a good idea, but is there any danger to lowering the powder and shot of a trusted recipe? maybe lowing the powder too much and causing a squib? but with buck and bird Is a squib even possible? wouldn't the shot be loose enough that it can just fall out If I tilt the barrel down? or does the wad keep it tight enough that a squib Is indeed possible?

I have a lyman 6th edition manual, for niche recipe's, is there an online source that's safe?

1. I have seen a lot of information about what shells are good to reload, and its frankly overwhelming and hard to compare, I have kind of settled on Winchester AA or Remington STS, are these good choices, and how many reloads should I expect?

I hear that Winchester AA got a downgrade, not being one solid hull anymore, and not being a tapered hull, Is It coasting on past reputation, or Is It still a good choice?

1. In the beginning, should I fire it with a string from cover, or with a gun I don't care about, just in case i screw something up? or is the formula for safety as simple as BE CAREFUL when loading

Edit: Also, do i need to size my shells?

Hey guys, why's my machine making my shelling look like this? I just got an old 600 jr from my uncle, Ive used this model before with my dad but its never done this before on his machines and i cant figure out how to get it to stop doing it, im using 1 1/8 load with wt12 wads, if that helps at all.

So I’ve been looking and looking. I know that alliant steel is the best but I’m sol… I can’t find it anywhere, I keep reading that hogdon longshot is a good one but I can’t find and recipes for 3inch 1 1/4 oz 12ga. But I’m open to recommendations on powders, I’m in search of some good powder.

I just found a good marketplace deal on a pretty clean MEC 600 in 16ga. I’m curious what my fellow 16ga shooters are currently loading. I have Federal, Winchester super x and both common Remington hulls.

ETA: The powders on my bench are: Alliant Unique and Blue dot; Hodgdon Longshot; Winchester 572.

Thinking about reloading 20ga when does the savings start it seams I can buy #6 for cheeper than i can buy components don’t shoot anything other than 8 and 6 shot for pheasants and doves would it be worth it

I have a load from the lyman 6th edition I wanted to test but im unsure of the components is this load calling for a gas seal and a wad that has a gas seal already??? 2nd time posting this

I’m looking into getting a press for 28ga reloading. With the price of trap loads I’ll probably get into those aswell but I’m really looking for where the info on broad reloading and just TSS is. Knowing where to get good priced components wouldn’t hurt either.

I need to make some new benchrest bags and a shot bag full of sawdust is ideal.

I got a deal on some Federal 209A primers. I understand that they are magnum primers. I’m loading AA Hulls with 16.5 grains of Red Dot, 1 1/8 of # 8 for Trap. Any issues using the 209 A primer? Appreciate any input!

I'm relatively new to shotshell reloading. I started by buying a MEC grabber 76 used (so all set up and adjusted by the previous owner). I started saving Winchester AA hulls, bought clay buster CB1100-12 (replaces WAA12SL), 7.5 shot, perfect pattern powder, and chedite primers. Starting with the hodgdon recipe for this combination and making just a slight adjustment I found a good recipe for trap and skeet loads with 1oz of shot flying at 1175 fps. Very happy with that.
Remington gun club is supposed to be a high quality very reloadable hull. It's also supposed to be a tapered hull just like the AA and $1-2 less per box. But when I sub in the gun club hulls for the AA the final crimp is depressed and a hole opens up. As if the shot volume is insufficient.
I can get a great crimp if I switch to an 1 1/8 oz shot bar. But I don't want 1 1/8 oz. That just eats into the already razor thin savings from reloading at all. And I need to take a chronograph to the range to see how much powder I need to add for the extra shot.
Anyone have similar experience? Any idea what's going on? Do I need to change to a 7/8 oz wad and fill it with 1 oz? From what I read the two hulls should be basically interchangeable. Why are they not?

I have never reloaded shotshells before, only rifle cartridges, I have a husqvarna sxs from 1912 and im pretty sure it fires 2.5 instead of 2.75 shells. I want the lee load all but it says it only loads 2.75 and up, is this true?

I don’t know about anyone else here, but it drove me nuts buying an older used mec and it being just a hunk of rust amongst two great condition presses. Having that one press that just stood out in the WRONG ways made my bench look junky and cheap. Although it’s just a tool, I’d rather take care of my tools so they operate and look like they’re still brand new!

If you’re the same way and would like to liven up your bench, feel free to reach out! I’ve refurbished about half a dozen 600s now and have a pretty good system going. Or, if you’re thinking about getting rid of a press or two shoot me a message! I’ll also do any brand or model!

I have a mec jr600. I'm reloading .410 shot shells using hogdon h110, and hogdons knockoff AA recipe. The recipe calls for 16.7 grains of powder. My #13 bushing is dropping about 16.8-17 grains, consistently averaging 16.9 with rare outliers being the desired 16.7 and the overloaded 17. Thes are rare but still happening occasionally. I have not completed any of these shells yet, still just testing consistency.

I've never reloaded before so I wanted to confirm with some experienced folks to see if you would personally accept these numbers, or if you would tinker around to find a solution. Attached is hogdons reloading recipes, the bottom three being acceptable. I also have 13a, 12a, 12, and 11 bushings as well

I've replaced the plastic MEC crimp starter (8 point) on both of my MEC 9000 several times to include stem that holds it. Reason being is it keeps pulling off the little ball that holds it, I have it set to allow a primer to set on the hole but not fall through. I even tried this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Af1PPBn6DIE&t=421s . It works, but I have a hard time finding the 2" socket head machine screw and since the screw is a #8 and the hole is 3/16" it sometimes works loose and isn't centered which causes problems. Was wondering if has tried Ballistic Products Super Crown Crimp Starter for Mec Presses and their opinion of it.

Long story short, I had a hunting/fishing/shooting/football watching/beer drinking buddy.. who about 4 years ago decided he wanted to "exist in another plane of consciousness."

Well, the widow-woman and I FINALLY got around to cleaning out his bat-cave in the back of the garage.. and I ran across two 5-gallon buckets of these Remington hulls, plus another half-bucket of loaded ammo. A lot of them had green crusties. Those I just tossed. But I'd say I'm looking at a couple hundred usable hulls.

In the event I should feel the need to load these up, I need to match the wads to the hull, right? So are these considered "Express" "Premier" "STS" or "shoot once and trash?" They started out as dove & quail loads. He did all the shotgun reloading, I did all our metallic reloading.

I barely had enough room to mount the presses to my bench, but there they are.

Got a universal/adjustable charge bar (the Multi-Scale one) on my 9000GN that i love. Problem is the little metal stud the return spring hooks onto has worked loose from the aluminum body and isn’t sitting straight anymore — it’s basically pulling out, so the spring won’t anchor right and the bar doesn’t return like it should.

Went down the rabbit hole trying to get a replacement part and found out Multi-Scale is out of business, so no parts or service there. MEC won’t touch it since it’s aftermarket.

So I’m trying to figure out my best move:

1. Reseat the stud myself — was thinking sleeve-retainer Loctite, or drill/tap and thread in a new post. Anyone done this and had it actually hold up under repeated use?

2. Ballistic Products Adjusta Drop — does the current one actually fit the 9000 progressive, or is it still single-stage only?

3. Just say screw it and go back to MEC bushings + fixed bars. I really love this bar though 😭.

Anybody dealt with this exact failure? Really don’t want to lose the adjustable if I can avoid it, but not interested in babying a bad repair forever either. Appreciate any help.

Just got started in softshell reloading. Have done a lot of metallic but first time shotgun.

I have a mec9000 for 12GA and two 600 for 28 and 20

Started with 28 (having indexing issue with m9000, will post separately).

Issues
1). My crimps are as in pic. Assuming this is not good. What should I do? I played with the pre crimp depth but can’t get any better.

2). I am using waa28/ 0.75OZ #9, Longshot powder, STS shell. The load data says 14.2. My 13 bushing is throwing 13.2 and 14 bushing 15. How risky is it to do only 13. How do I get in between.

Just got my ballistics product shipment in. Sucks the next closest range is an hour away since the indoor one burned down. The wad when flared out has a decently tight fit and doesn’t fall out of the shell even when shaking. I still may use a nitrocard though.

A drumstick works excellent for pressing wads down btw.

Or any suggestions on where to begin?

Yes yes I already know “manuals” and “never deviate from load data”.

I bought a Lee Load used, to have as a backup to leave in my cabin. It has powder and shot in it already. Does anyone have a good way to empty the powder and shot out? I will use the shot again but probably won't use the powder since it's an unknown brand and age?

Hello I’m looking for some resources for federal top gun hulls. Basically I’m trying to replicate what I shoot for factory loads which is 3” federal speed shock 1 1/4” 3 shot. BUT here’s the twist.

(Disclaimer I only have 2 3/4” hulls)

I have lyman 6th edition reloading manual however my local stores does not stock any of the powders listed for (2 3/4”hulls). I’d like to reload for 1 1/8th - 1 1/4 ounces for STEEL shot for water fowl. The manual only goes up to 1 1/8th

I tried Hodgdon website but they don’t have the hull I wish to use. And I’m not knowledgeable enough to know if I can/could use a different straight wall hull load data like a cheddite and not blow my face or fingers off

Yes I realize the concern with federal top gun hulls with the separate plastic base but it’s what I have for the time being.

I had planned on purchasing the status of steel reloading manual from BP but haven’t gotten that far yet. And was honestly maybe hoping some one could confirm the hull is in there in the first place??

Any recommendations on reloading manuals / Any insight is appreciated