Pic because who doesn't love a cool odometer reading?

I'm also looking for any pointers you may have on changing the cooling fan assembly. Am I going to have to take my whole front end apart to replace the fans? (One doesn't engage. I confirmed it's the fan motor by testing). The part just got here so I haven't really dug in yet. TIA fellow Scionistas!

Tc has a check engine light and needs to have the Crankshaft sensor replaced but other than that it looks cosmetically and mechanically good. I want this to be my daily driver and hopefully last a good awhile so what do you guys think

Had this sound for weeks, she aint low on oil, but when when in lower RPMS the sound deafens even stops time to time only to be picked back up after stepping on gas, any hints or ideas on what it could be?

Hardwired my dashcam and Uniden R3 in my 2012 TC RS7.

Dashcam uses two fuse taps, one that is always connected to battery and one that is accessory only. When the car is on the dashcam gets power from the accessory only mode and records normally. When the car is off the dashcam switches to a low power timelapse mode with g force detection that will start recording if it detects the car is bumped.

The radar detector is simply wired to turn on when the car comes on, and turn off when the car turns off. I have mine mounted with a mirror mount.

Overall really easy process becasue of Toyota's brilliance with ease of panel removal. Took about an hour on a random Wednesday at 11pm. Looks totally factory, and the Uniden matches the factory orange LEDs in this car great

I was getting a remote starter installed to my 2014 today. Tech sends me a picture and says, “Hey, did you know this was connected to your car?”

No clue what it is, but it appeared to be aftermarket. I’m the second owner and I’ve had it since 2016.

It was hooked up right behind the panel right under the steering wheel, pictures shown.

Hi so recently I have been hearing this groan/moan when turning the steering wheel to the right mostly while moving and going over bumps but rough roads can create that sound even while stationary. Ball joint and tie rods at solid have no play. If i drive through a turn and there is big bump or hole the car makes a clunk/clank then goes back to moaning. Steering and driving the car has no issues, the sound is just very annoying and i cant readily see whats wrong.

I got a 2011 scion tc with 180k miles I love it and am enjoying it but it started making this rattling noise ONLY on cold starts. Can you guys help me figure out what can it possibly be so I can fix it before it gets worse.

Turn car on and srs icon was on, 2015 Scion tc

Bonus: if you zoom in, there’s a 3rd tC in the back

This is the offer TiresDiscounters gave me but idk much about the tire market so I ask here.

Or should I get used tires instead? Their other quote was like 1k for their premium tires!

My clutch started slipping and decided to tackle the job myself.. Got the transmission out (yes starter seized so I’m going to have fun getting that out tmr) and was wondering while I’m in this deep if you guys have any suggestions on what else to replace while she’s out.. I already ordered left/ right axle seals, input shaft seal (although I hear the Toyota oem part is wrong from this vid https://youtu.be/-M-5ndhYP2g?si=Eg2dMq1FaeqCVanb , rear main seal, flywheel bolts (TTY), slave cylinder (does anyone think I should lube the part that slides back and forth?

I’m really torn on ripping the trans apart and replacing the dreadfull ISB. The tc has 200k on it and I don’t hear the noise but from what I hear it’s not a If it’s when.

Trans mounts appear decent but it’s so easy to replace now,, only problem is that I don’t see many options for purchase.

Any tips and tricks even if it seems obvious would be greatly appreciated,,

Thank you

Bodyshop quoted me 6grand to fix it.. it still stings cuz a junkyard qouted me $355 to buy it from me. Had the car for 6 years.. only had maybe 180,000 miles

2010 Scion tC. Burns a qrt of oil every 300 miles and misfires if I hit the gas above 2,000 RPM. I'm pretty sure it's because of the carbon buildup in the cylinders causing the oil not to drain out properly and rising up to hit the spark plug. This is cylinder 1 and it seemed to be the worst out of the 4, but they all have a decent, but of carbon that I saw. Misfiring has gotten worse over time, I'm guessing because more carbon is blocking the drain holes on the pistons.

The second picture is of one of the spark plugs. Mind you the spark plug was brand new ~5,000 miles ago. You can see the carbon and oil on it.

10/21/26 UPDATE: Happy to say the piston soak with Berryman B12 made a BIG difference. The car can actually be driven normally again and SO MUCH carbon came out when we blew out the cylinders and in the oil when we drained it. And that's just what we saw. We'll see how much of an improvement the oil consumption is.

Here's some pictures.

Why do engineers hate mechs/techs? Whoever put the fuse box where it is is an asshole

So when I got the car, check engine light was on for MAF. I ended up cleaning it and rocking with it.

Well I’ve been having really rough idle recently, so, naturally I replaced the MAF, as that definitely could cause rough idle.

When it idles rough, it drops down to about 600 rpm. Should I clean the VVT solenoid? Or could there be another fix?

Thanks!

The only other car that comes to mind that has this kind of pano roof that slides up and out is the Pontiac G6!

Hey, yall! After looking around for a new car, I’ve stumbled upon the tC and found it to be a great fit for practically and my lifestyle.

Only looking for automatic right now, and there’s a lot of 2012 models in my area. Is there anything I should really look out for when inspecting the car and test driving the car? I drove one briefly but noticed some rattling in the back and wasn’t entirely sure where it was coming from.

One I’m looking to see is 150k miles going for $5k. Carfax seems clean with oil changes every ~5000 miles. Just want to know any red flags before committing! Thanks :)

Having a weirdly difficult time on simply putting the bracket and compressing the bushing. I tried using a c-clamp but it bent the bracket.

The bar is advertised as 1 1/16 inch diameter but i measured it at closer to 1 3/8. the bushing wraps around the bar but it leaves a huge gap (as shown in the first photo)

I've already tried installing the brackets while the bar is already in the position its supposed to be in, and the nut and bolt where its supposed to go literally cannot reach the ends because of how much the bushing makes the bracket protrude.

Is there something up with the sizes of the items included in the kit? or is there something im doing wrong?

The bar: https://www.hotchkis.net/product/hotchkis-22425r-rear-sway-bar/

The installation instructions: https://www.hotchkis.net/instructions/22425R.pdf

Should I buy?

https://www.facebook.com/share/1DHRYGAV4i/?mibextid=wwXIfr

Trying to figure out this noise coming from passenger side seemingly somewhere in the dash.

2009 Scion TC

AC/heat or fans are not on at all and the noise seems to go away when revving

My 2012 tc makes this weird sound when I turn or brake and the car would randomly shut off I need help because this is my only car and I work far