I enter the combo:

x turning cc on the 4th turn;

y turning cw on the 3rd turn;

z turning cc on the 2nd turn;

then turn cw slowly until knob stops.

the knob never stops or hits resistance.

I recently got this cool old Schwab fireproof box from its original elderly owners, hoping someone can tell me something about it? I would love to know how old it is and if it's worth anything, not that I want to sell such a cool piece lol I'm just curious. I got the original tags with the combination and turning order with it as well!

What do you estimate? What is the weight of such a door. Size is approx 190cm X 100cm. Are they normally fully out of iron. Or is there a concrete layer in the middle?

Location: Edmonton (Local pickup only, this thing is heavy!)

Details:

Up for sale is a solid, vintage Meilink Hercules Safe-T-Vault security fire chest. If you know these safes, you know they are built like absolute tanks and offer incredible, heavy-duty protection for documents, collectibles, or valuables.

• Fire Protection: Features the original lid plaque certifying a 1-hour fire endurance rating by the Meilink Steel Safe Co. (Toledo, Ohio). It is guaranteed to withstand external heat for a full hour without damage to the contents.

• Premium Interior: The main compartment is completely lined in a clean, burgundy/maroon velvet material—perfect for keeping jewelry, coins, or delicate heirlooms from getting scratched by the steel frame.

• Certified Security: Includes the official, original SMNA (Safe Manufacturers National Association) metal specification plate mounted on the interior floor, confirming its status as a certified insulated container.

• Key: Comes with the original working key for the lock cylinder. The mechanism turns and locks perfectly.

• Condition: Vintage / Used. Heavy, solid steel construction with great character. The interior fabric is clean and ready for use.

I’ve been looking for a partial in wall safe that gives me added depth similar to the mycube in wall. I heard mycube is usually an inferior product.

So I’m asking if anyone has any alternatives?

I have the combination for this safe, but it’s been unlocked and was recently locked (open) by accident. Can you make sense of this procedure? Where should I start the dial, at zero? According to the photo, it is a 4 numeral combination, but the first step is to rotate it clockwise (right) 5 times. Does that make sense?

I have the opportunity to get this safe and was wondering if anyone had an idea of its weight? And any tips on moving it.

Serial # 07-002073-80108-01

TIA

Been looking for a hot min for a gun safes. One for future expansion without the having the need to purchase a bigger one later down the road.

Here are my options thus far:

+Winchester Safes 48 Long Gun 27.8 cu. ft. Electronic Lock Gun Safe, 45 min. Fire Rating, GunStiXX Included, Slate.

+Browning Yellowstone Series 49-Gun Safe.

+Steelwater Gun Safe HD593024 - Extreme Duty 26 Long Gun Safe.

————-

-willing to spend Up to $2,500.
-Preferably 12 or 10 gauge steel thickness.
-drill/pry resistant.
-fire proof rating, no preference atm.
-not a big fan of knock offs/cheap.

also aware Winchester is just a 14 gauge with no pry/drill.

Any are recommendations is much appreciated.

Hi everyone! I'm looking for a tiny fire-resistant safe for home use to keep valuables protected. We don't have much space at home, so I'm hoping to find something compact that can fit inside a closet or cabinet. for those who own one, what brands or models would you recomend?

Hi! I bought a house that has a safe inside one of the cabinets. It's currently open and the previous owner doesn't know how to lock it.

There's a piece of paper from the manufacturer with the safe's code and the instructions to unlock it, which are:

- Turn the dial 3 times clockwise, stopping at number XX;

- One full turn counterclockwise, until number YY;

- Then clockwise again, until number ZZ.

The paper also mentions that there are keys, but the previous owner doesn't have them either.

Nothing moves on the safe: the main dial (see picture 2) won't turn at all -- it seems completely locked.

Is there any way to get this safe functioning properly? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

My parents put our passports into a safe they bought in 2016 that neither of them remember how to open. I'm trying to help them. It's a Korean brand called Safewell. I have a picture below of the model number.

The only information I can get from either of them:

- a picture of the dial resting at exactly 71.5 (my dad insists it should open at exactly 71.5 and doesn't need to be turned more, which I doubt. I'm guessing 71.5 is the last number in the combo)

- We have the key. It inserts into the hole with no issues but won't turn

- They bought it in 2016

I have nothing else from either of them. I looked through their password records to see if they wrote it down somewhere but couldn't find anything. Are we completely screwed??

I recently went through the process of buying a safe here in Vietnam and wanted to share the experience, specs, and pricing for anyone curious about how the process and hardware compare overseas.

I visited a dedicated safe retailer in Vietnam. https://zpic.org/view/7RbMyMZs

The standout feature was their custom fabrication service. They let you customize the layout free of charge, taking about 10 days from order to delivery. For this unit, I requested moving the secondary internal lockbox from the bottom up to the top. The older folks in the house have a tough time bending down, so placing the lockbox higher up makes accessing important items much easier on their backs.

The total price came out to $578 USD, including all taxes. That price covered full white glove delivery, including manhandling a 500+ lb safe up the stairs to an upper floor. To top it off, the delivery crew moved our old safe free of charge.

• Exterior: ~3' 6" H × 2' W × 2' D
• Interior: ~2' 11" H × 1' 8" W × 1' 3" D
• Weight: ~518 lbs (~235 kg)
• Chubb Safe Model CS-107FE: Safe body made in Vietnam (likely manufactured in the Ho Chi Minh City area). No documentation has been provided regarding the safe.
• Locks: Digital keypad with biometric fingerprint reader made in South Korea (physical backup keyway origin unknown).

The one drawback is the door handle: it’s just too short. It doesn't have the length or solid grip you'd expect from a typical US safe handle.

Overall, getting a 518 lb semi custom safe delivered up a flight of stairs for under $600 all in was an impressive deal.

Is there a replacement cylinder for this safe? I believe this safe has been discontinued and the answer is "no".

An older gentleman, who is an acquaintance of mine lost his key and had the cylinder drilled out.

He is set in his ways and is hoping he can save his safe

Thank you

Considering this compact used OSV safe for $5000. Seller (local safe locksmith) says it came from another residence that upgraded and has no mechanical issues.

Details:
- UL TL-30×6 label present.
- Exterior approximately 29″ H × 24″ W × 29″ D.
- 2-hour fire rated
- Mechanical combination lock plus a secondary key lock.
- Glass relocker
- 1750lbs

The $5,000 total includes:
- Delivery and installation.
- Concrete anchoring using titen anchors
- Replacing the S&G 6730 with an S&G 8500-series mechanical lock.
- Replacing the secondary lock.
- Repainting the interior and exterior.

Does this sound like a fair price? Anyone have experience with OSV’s build quality, reliability, or servicing older models? Anything specific i need to inspect before buying?

Safe at work had the release mechanism lock up. I'm experienced with repairs in both mechanical and electrical; I was able to get it open and as soon as I popped the inner panel off a little white plastic ring flew out. When I put it back in, it did not want to unlock. Without it, the lock will not remain engaged, but keeping that ring out is the only way it won't get further damaged. So I'm probably gonna end up taking it home so it doesn't get thrown away; might be fixable.

I finally got it open brute-forcing it by leaning my knee against the door with my full weight and shoving the handle downwards from a straight position with the heel of my hand. (Had permission to break it just to get into it, wasn't trying to do that.) We tried at least three sets of batteries and I let it sit for a hard reset; it was not the batteries. This is a safe designed for domestic use; it's being used in a retail environment. Our boss refuses to buy other safes and I think they keep wearing them down because they're not designed to be opened and closed every single day and slammed like a mini-fridge.

Could I possibly fix it? I'll need to get better photos of the inside of it when I have the chance. When the plastic ring is placed back inside, this pops forward. My job doesn't have time or money to fix it but I do, and I'm the person they give old things they're gonna throw out to so I can fix them

EDIT: It might be a GDC, not a GTC. I'll have to take a look at it later; I have to go by anyway and I told them I was gonna look at it.

Hey watch fam and security enthusiasts,

I've been noticing a trend where collectors move away from hidden, utilitarian gun-style safes and lean towards luxury display safes that double as furniture (like BUBEN & ZORWEG, Döttling, etc.).
While heavy security is important, aesthetics, LED lighting, fine wood veneers (like Macassar), and quiet winder mechanisms matter a lot when the safe is placed inside a walk-in closet or study.
Has anyone compared B&Z with other high-end alternatives? Does the focus on luxury and design compromise any security aspects, or do they strike the right balance? Let's discuss!

Hi Reddit,

We have this old safe in my local shooting range. I'have the code who is composed of three numbers and the carved arrow in the wood of the shelf behind indicate the first rotation direction. When I attempt to open the safe, I reset the wheel by rotating in the direction of the arrow at least five time. Then I rotate three more time in the same direction and I stop on the first number. I change direction and I stop when I'm on the second number two time, then I change direction and I stop on the last number. Despite this, I can't open it. What do I do wrong?

I previously posted about needing a replacement dimple key for a Brinks 5059 safe. Many asked for a close-up photo of the cylinder chamber to see the pins so I’m adding it here. The pins are on the side so it’s definitely a dimple lock. Additionally the key hole is clearly rectangular which is another indicator. It is very difficult to find anyone who supplies blank dimple keys. Any advice where to check would be appreciated. Otherwise, I was able to remove the cylinder, which is 2.5“ long and 7/8” wide. If someone knows where to find a replacement cylinder based on size, that would also be helpful - instead of looking for a dimple key. Thanks, everyone, for the help.

I’m considering a TL-30 vs the x6 safe, but comparable TL-30×6 options cost roughly 2× more. Is the additional tested protection on the sides, back, top, and bottom worth that premium for residential use, or is it diminishing returns?

For a properly anchored safe, how realistic are side/rear attacks during a home burglary?

Would appreciate firsthand input from safe technicians or owners on when ×6 is worth the extra expense.

So each lock box and cabinet had different keys so i order a set of 3 cam lock. Now all 3 have the same key and im not stumbling with which key work for which lock so nice

Where should I ask about finding something similar to a fireproof safe, but not necessarily a "safe" - just a box that I could use to store something that's potentially a fire risk or an explosion risk, like a lawn mower battery?

Any tips or advice on how to secure a safe to the floor on a second story closet with a carpeted floor

I’m concerned I will hit a water pipe or electrical wire.