It’s been a while since I’ve tackled a project like this.

The restoration on this heater started out as a an evening tinker in the garage - and quickly evolved into a labor of love. This journey was filled with trial and error, experimentation and aesthetic choices I wasn’t sure would translate.

But here we are: an early 1900’s Dangler Stove Co. Parlor Heater, built in Cleveland, Ohio.

This is one of my first rehabs on a hand forged tool. It's so cool seeing how everything was formed to fit. Found it in the mud at the scrap. Still need to make/find a spring that would work.

After a huge slog, a significant milestone of the restoration project has been achieved. Very grateful to my team for their hard graft and the group as a whole for making this possible. Next, the interior.

How to dismantle this further.

Got stuck removing the middle sub assembly.

Tried some redneck stuff and I'm afraid to go further.

Couldn't find any manuals or videos for this exact type

I got this souvenir cap gun from the Pirates of the Caribbean ride in Disney World probably about 35 years ago. My parents found it in an old box of junk when they were cleaning out their attic, and they gave it back to me. It was pretty beat up and rusty, so I tried to give it some love. I'm pleased with how it turned out.

I got an old metal lathe from a family member a few years ago. It is a Power Kraft back gear driven lathe. I used it for projects especially in the manufacturing of some of the machines that my company makes.

But the quality of cuts was iffy and it had an outdated underpowered motor. This is only listing a few of the issues it has. In addition, the headstock was slightly out of alignment. It got covered in dust from the shop, the cut was sloppy because of various issues, the belt slipped all the time and the tool post sucked.

My goal is to eliminate these issues. I want to make this machine looking and working beautifully.

I also recently purchesed a benchtop mill for some small projects. I will likely post an update on that restoration as well. Follow along to see the restoration! Feel free to leave helpful ideas if you have them. Thanks for reading!

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Watch the complete, detailed ceramic repair lesson

This shortened A-to-Z video tutorial demonstrates the ceramic and pottery restoration process from start to finish, covering all the essential steps:

• Removing old glue and previous failed repairs
• Mending and securing broken ceramic pieces
• Filling cracks, gaps, and missing sections
• Sanding to achieve a smooth, even surface
• Painting and color matching to restore the original appearance
• Applying a cold glaze to finish and protect the repaired surface

Using readily available materials, this demonstration provides practical techniques for DIY ceramic, porcelain, china, and pottery repair, including plates, bowls, vases, figurines, pitchers, urns, and other glazed ceramic objects.

Note: These restoration methods are intended for decorative use. Repaired surfaces should not be considered food-safe.

Explore more pottery and sculpture repair lessons

#lakesidepottery #potteryrepair #ceramicrepair #chinarepair #potteryrestoration #ceramicrestoration

I believe it's made of wood? It's been sitting in this antique store for at least four years and I'm considering finally bringing it home

This wax is for plastic, used on tiny scratches.

I just moved in and there are spots like this on the floor and the landlord said he's not gonna do anything about it. It just bothers me a lot. I think somehow the finish has been removed because when I mop, the stains get darker, like they are absorbing water.

Any help is greatly appreciated :)

The previous owner had that convoluted flexible tubing on the dryer which filled up with accumulated lint because it was partially crushed. I replaced it with efficient adjustable flu pipe.

I have these old pair of RM Williams boots that where a family meme era old work shoes, I want to try and restore the leather myself but not sure where to start. Google hasn’t been much help.

They are very soft and slightly fuzzy in some areas due to the amount of use. The sole is still in very good condition.
Any advice will be greatly appreciated :)

I'm restoring a vintage enamel table. I took he hollow metal legs off and restore. I need to replace the hardware to hold the legs in place. Where can I buy it?

Hello, my grandfather asked me to restore a part of his frame. It holds only sentimental value and also it will be my first time ever doing something like this so it doesn't have to be perfect but I would still love some tips and suggestions. The outer part of the frame broke while moving out and most of the parts got lost. It's a sequence so my grandpa just kinda matched the pieces and glued them on. But the whole upper part is missing. Our idea is to make a cast of one sequence that is in the best condition and just make molds and then glue them on the top part. But i have some concerns and maybe some of you could help me. My first thought was to make the cast with silicone but i'm not sure how i can make it with pour in silicone if the pieces are on the frame, and i know there is putty silicone but then i don't know how to make it even and a repeatable pattern. And then there's a question of what material to make the molds with? It has to be able to stick to the wooden frame and then be painted to be matched to the rest. I know that you can use gypsum/plaster?? or resin but i don't think the latter can be painted? I attach pictures of the frame and the part i think it's the best to cast. Any ideas and tips are welcome

They‘re from the Alessi Nuovo Milano collection, stainless steel. The handle and the blade have separated a bit and the blade itself has some damage. Are they salvageable?

Hey there, looking for some tips on a toilet restoration. I've not done much with cast iron.

I've got an old cast iron toilet I want to repair. It's functioning well, and holding water, but it's very slowly leaking through some rusted areas.

I'm thinking of:

1. Wirebrushing, sanding, stripping back.

2. Applying plenty of Rustins Rust converter.

3. Painting inside of cistern with some kind of two part waterproof paint. Any suggestions for what paint? Obviously cheaper is better, but might as well do it properly too.

Your advice appreciated!

C

It is in extremely good condition for its age, with all original components intact. It even still has the original brand sticker inside. It has a slight musty smell to it, and here and there are some areas that I think could be cleaned, de-rusted, shined up. But I'm afraid to do too much that could ruin any of the original components or stain it. I've seen options for the musty smell to use vinegar, sunlight, etc., but these all seem like they'd stress the leather and the liner. I could use tips to restore this trunk, thanks!

What you're looking at is a mostly disassembled chinese octagonal tea table/ scholar table that dates roughly from the end of the qing dynasty to the early republic. ( about 1890 to 1920) this table belonged to my great-grandfather. It fell apart sometime before I was even born, For years my mother has had this in a milk crate in storage and I just refound it.

My ultimate goal is to have a copy of the missing side piece made ( as you can see in the middle, there's only 3 when they're supposed to be 4) then put it back together and possibly refinished somehow. Not to make it look brand new, but just to breathe a little bit of life back into it. Basically ensure it'll stick around for future generations of the family to enjoy.

However, I don't know what the procedure is concerning something This old. I was really hoping for some advice on whether I should try to touch up the finish, and if so, what I should do?

My grandfather used to drag me around in his old wood wagon behind his old ford tractor. Thought it was time I bring her back so I can take my kids around with the same tractor and same wagon. I think the old man would love it.

I am restoring a butler specialty company catalog 984 (I have another with a different number as well) clothes rack and they did not come with screws for the bottom does anyone know what type of screws would work? It looks like this.

Pictures do not do the before pic justice- it had at least a millimeter of dust packed up under the keys, worm casings and other nasty stuff in it. Previous owner mustve smoked, it had tons of grime baked into the plastic. Had to scrub every single key and deep clean the board, and the case and keys had to soak to leech out all the grime

Sadly I didn't know it was membrane before I ordered it, but it's my responsibility to care for it. Some of the keys don't press very easily, or only press if you hit the key from the center and push straight down. Can I lube the keys or anything to aid this?

Hi everyone!

I wanted to share one of my recent bench projects: saving a rare 1993 Casio AW-330-AT (Module 734) altimeter watch that I bought at an online auction for ~$11.

It arrived in pretty rough shape—completely dead, filled with leaked battery acid residue, a ruined LCD, a stuck analog gear train, and no strap.

Restoration & Repair Highlights:
- Chemical Cleanup & Circuit Revival: Neutralized heavy battery acid corrosion using IPA, then re-aligned the internal ground springs to restore continuity and get the AC reset firing again.
- Un-sticking the Analog Movement: Carefully worked the 30-year-old mechanical gear train back and forth to clear mechanical resistance.
- NOS Display Swap: Located a New Old Stock (NOS) gold-tinted LCD screen from a seller in Spain to replace the damaged original display.
- Custom Screen Protector Hack: I traced the irregular glass contour using Tesa tape, digitized the vector pattern, and custom-cut a hydrogel screen protector.
- NOS Strap: Sourced an original Casio "Altitude" mountain-motif strap on eBay.

The Ultimate Validation:
To test the barometric sensor calibration, I took the watch on a hiking trip up to ~3,000 meters in the Austrian Alps. The altimeter tracked elevation flawlessly throughout the climb, staying within ~5 meters of official topographic map benchmarks!

It went from a discarded piece of 90s electronic junk back to a reliable mountain tool.

UPDATE: This project was actually just featured on Hackaday!

Full step-by-step restoration write-up with high-res macro photos:

https://bench-journal.vercel.app/casio-aw-330-at

Edit: removed the misleading sentence about the screen protector.

Hi, I'm an armorsmith who's going through a bit of a mold problem and is in need of information. If there's any advice on how to clean off mold from 16 Guage Steel and felt, it would be much appreciated. Thank you for your time and consideration