First post on the subreddit, I've had this car for a while (2019). Finally getting to a point in life where I can prioritize it so hopefully there will be more photos (and videos!) to come.

I have been looking at the RX 7 and the RX8. But a lot of online posts talk about having to pull the engine every 25k miles or so because of seals needing replaced.

I watched a few videos of engine removal. Looks easier than a lot of other cars I have done minus old Chevy small blocks.

But my worry is I drive 200 miles a day down the interstate at 75mph and hammer miles on my current car roughly 50k-60k a year on average.

With my commute should I really be thinking about getting a rotary for a daily driver? My current car I have put 190k on in the 3 years I have owned it. Body looks great and engine still runs good with nothing major breaking. But it’s a 2014 Fiat Dart GT with the 2.4

So with my mileage should I stay away from getting one as a daily?

As wondering what everyone is running for coils/wires. I’m having the issue where it seems like wires are way to loose and will not clip in, the just slide off

About a year and a half into this project now, so thought I’d share a few progress photos.

Bodywork is substantially done and it’s finally starting to look like a car again. Next up is the engine build and electrics, so still plenty to keep us busy.

Hopefully have it out on Irish roads next summer, all going well. Looking forward to actually driving it instead of just looking at photos of it 😂

Here's another one... i have a running engine. The stock exhaust is mostly bolted on, but i don't think that's the source. You can hear that deeper rapping sound. Seems to be coming from the exhaust area or engine block internally. Just doesn't sound right to me. Any idea what it is?

The smoke is just all the residue burning off a fresh build.

Also, thanks to all those who have been helping me with all my problems. WOW!! Legends! I'm soooo close to having my FD driving again after 6+ years.

Besides BN or knock off BN.

Hello guys,
I'm here asking your help about a strange behaviour in the idle.

The car is a '89 Convertible Turbo II, all is stock, the car have 57k km and never being rebuilt, always checked on mazda from the first owner and stayed some year on a private collection, just to know the background. the only part other standard maintenace i changed when i buy is a TPS non working properly, with a brand new one, spark plug and O2 sensor. after that change the car run really smooth, it start in 4 crank both cold and warm, and i have lowered the idle screw to the minimum to bring it back to normal idle speed.
the issue that i see is when i start the car after like 1-2 hour after using it, it start pretty well, same 4-5 crank, but the idle speed fall to near 500-600 rpm for a bit before return to the 800.
my concern is to understand the problem, if there is a problem, cause the nearest shop that understand rotary to em is like 4h of car, so if it is somthing relevant to bring the car here or something less and i can fix it. i'm practical on mechanical work, but i have no space and time to bring down the engine atm.
if you want some photos feel free to ask
thank you for your help andlet me learn something more on doritos XD

Got my twin power hooked up and got the uim off again im gonna clean stuff up and make it look nicer👍🏼

So I have an 87 s4 with a s5 t2 complete swap I picked up a while back. It’s been hard to keep running for very long. It will start up and idle perfect for about a minute before it dies. It sounds like it is running fine on the cold start circuit but then dies as soon as the ACV closes? It will also die as soon as I let out the clutch without being in gear if I’m not holding the throttle open a bit. When I can keep it running (very light throttle) it will surge just a bit. It’s not a heavy surge, just a real light surge.

I’ve adjusted the TPS sensor already. It’s working good and has perfect readings. A friend of mine suggested the clutch pedal switches but I don’t think that’s the issue since it will die even with the clutch depressed with no throttle as soon as the ACV closes.

I'm wondering if there's any way to check the omp is working without disconnecting the feed line? The engine is all together and running and i don't have access to remove the feed lines.

The picture is just for attention

Hello, I’m trying to figure out what these side skirts and rear spats are, I think the lip is just the feed/odula but I’m not certain on that either

My googling and reverse image searching isn’t yielding anything helpful

Can’t tell if these or the Infini seats in my FC are my favorite OEM seats

I need a new radiator for my 1986 GXL FC, is this one decent or should I bite the bullet and get a koyo?

Grrr .. i rebuilt and got my engine started again. Was so excited, but out died after a few minutes. It was running smooth but at some point the idle dropped very low, but still ran. I have it a few revs, not too high, but the last time when I let it off, I had 1 big backfire, then it just died.

Cranking it sounds fine but doesn't show any sign of starting at all.

I've got it down to either fuel pump or spark. Any idea how I can test the pump? I'm on my own and have no special tools.

Does the pump run while on ignition but not cranking? Otherwise, how dumb is it to unplug the fuel hose and see if it pumps while i crank?

Some may remember my post last year about my dream car so here’s a little update

So a week ago I bought a 1989 s5 na vert to continue my 88 build
About a year ago I posted showing that I had put painted the hood on my white 88 hatch I pulled from a field

The 1989 was purchased as a running when parked and after some mmo in the housings, a oil change, cleaning the rust out of the fuel tank and a new filter she started up

The blue 1988 has been thoroughly picked through and WAS going to become a travel trailer but I needed to get rid of one so it had to go, so it went to a friend,

The white 88 hatch is as it was a year ago I’ve been busy and was waiting to find another parts bucket car

I was thinking about straight piping it with the header thoughts?

took a bit of detour to take a few photos. Truly work of art!

Hey guys! Made a few post about doing my own ports and building a half bridge. Here is the first start!……..But I didn’t have any coolant lines or anything hooked up. I come from a piston engine background where it’s generally okay run an engine for a minute or two without coolant to make sure things are working. Apparently even after countless hours of research, I missed the part where it said that’s an issue in a rotary. How fried am I? Revved for about a minute and a half trying to blip it and stay around 5k rpm’s. (Was told by an old rotary mechanic that he had good luck seating parts like that. It was its first start, so obviously there was lots of extra lubricants. I poured engine and oil down the intake while cranking with the plugs out to make sure I got good oil coverage. It was a cold day, 50 degrees and slightly rainy. And it turned over fine after I tried to start it again.

I'm now the proud owner of a 1992 RX7 EU spec.

I understand that the original ECU might not be the best so I want to change or make a PnP adapter for it.

I know there's link, haltech and other lesser ECUs. I would like Syvecs but I'm afraid there's nothing available.

Can you guys recommend something at the same level or where should I look for it in the internet (pinout, inputs and outputs information...)

Thanks!

Got the time to remove my y pipe for my efini one I recently acquired 👍🏼

July of 2023, while out with family. This caught my eye.

And yes, first time seeing a convertible one.

The few Vert guys in here on STOCKS. What are yall running? Mine are pushing 20