For those who sometimes ask me what kind of tape I use, it’s 1/8 inch “whiteboard tape” which you can get online in various places. Another good alternative is auto striping tape.

Packaging has become its own little side project. I decided to try making custom molded paper pulp packaging out of junk mail for my mugs. Work in progress, but feel free to ask questions!

Hello,

I've actually been throwing for a while now, but one thing I find very challenging is getting myself to throw thinner and thinner. The other day I saw a post where someone's cross-section was extremely thin, and I was inspired to try it out myself. But no matter how hard I think I push, it's still quite thick when I cut it open.

For those who are very experienced, very good, and have been doing this for many, many years: any tips for getting myself to throw super thin and even? Is it just putting in the time to practice, or what do you do to intentionally help your practice?

The first funnel I made was thrown. I haven’t had thrown a wide mouth funnel and a really long time. I’m planning on making some again soon.

I had switched to a slab built piece, that I am showing here. If you’re a person who likes to make things in store them in mason jars, or use mason jars for dry storage, these are really great project.

I’ve always had trouble photographing them, but today this bowl was sitting right where I was working, and I used it to hold the piece up.

Today I made a husk cherry chutney. The last photo is from the past, when I was making lemon curd over the winter.

Glazed and satin white on Laguna Death Valley clay fire fired cone 10

I've started making baubles for Christmas. I'm going to decorate them with slip in different ways, does anyone know if the slip is supposed to be added when leatherhard or even dryer?

One of my first items fired in my new kiln 🥹

• kentucky mudworks roo clay fired to cone 6
• painted with a variety of underglazes on greenware
• glazed with amaco hf9 clear
• ocean glaze is amaco 4x lagoon celadon, 2x textured turquoise, and thick blobs of snow
• sunset glaze is a sponged gradient of amaco mulberry, marigold, and snapdragon diluted with mixing clear

This is part of my "clay is dirt" series. I have a couple of mugs that I prompted myself to show off the clay as dirt.

The process for these is while greenware I used color slip and underglaze to paint on the veg then carved over it. The colored slip works better than underglaze alone on dark clay and allows the layered look. I also love that I can continue the design on the bottom of the mug with this technique.

I absolutely love these two colours from the Botz earthenware brush on glazes. They are 9104 Congac and 9344 Olive green. Problem is that I mostly work with stoneware. Does anyone know any similar stoneware brush on glazes?

Btw, I am not looking for recipes, as I don't have the tools for mixing my own glazes. Purely looking for pre made brush on glazes.

The external concrete doorstep of my house was badly damaged by workmen, it has been repaired but it looks awful now. I want to make the concrete doorstep pretty and functional but don’t know what glaze (or glaze/clay combo) is best for non-slippy tiles. My house is in a coastal village in North East Scotland, so winter is very wet and often below 0°c (yay 😒).

I usually make hand built terracotta garden pots, stoneware pots or weird sculptures, I have made small tiles successfully before and used them to tile a sink splash back, but it doesn’t freeze in my bathroom (thankfully) so my knowledge ends there.

I cannot find the answer on Google, all the Google information is for people who have been cursed with slippy tiles and want to un-slip them - which is an option for me but I’m sure there has to be a technique to making them non slip to begin with?

Any and all advice is appreciated - or links to where I can learn about making outdoor tiles for adverse living conditions (lols, I’m just bitter that I’ve had to put the heating on 🙂).

UK friends - be very careful what contractors you let do work to your home on a Warmer Homes type government scheme. Making right the damage they’ve done fitting 2 doors has cost me £900 so far.

Beginner here (first timer) and man you are making beautiful stuff! Yesterday, I unloaded the kiln and was surprised by the cool colours! However, the glaze did not seen to fuse everywhere to the pots. I fired as 1040 degrees (glaze is rated at 1020-1100) and brushed on two coats of glaze before. Any room for improvement here?

These are both gifts - the osprey mug depicts a scene with special meaning, and the belted kingfisher is the recipient's favorite bird. It is driving me up the wall that I accidentally dripped a tiny bit of the liner glaze on the kingfisher's face but I'm trying to accept the imperfection. Constructive criticism always appreciated!

Do we call them ribbons??

Hand built from extremely thin porcelain (Kentucky mudworks Kota), decorated with some underglaze pencil lines and thin washes of cobalt. Glaze fired upside down because otherwise they would have slumped into little puddles. Random placement of wadding around the rim created some surprising geometry! Next time I’ll try to be more intentional about that part and maybe the shapes will be nicer…

Featuring a cameo appearance by Acorn, who maybe was thinking I would be putting cat food in one of them. (Sorry, Acorn, they are for tea)

Made with 5 layers of Oxblood and a glaze call Duna from a supplier here in Brazil on the inside.

Could have put another layer of oxblood tbh, would have more red on it, but the result is pleassnt.

I've been working up the courage to start advertising and selling my work, just not sure how much to charge for it. Still not too sure how much I could charge for it.

The surface is rough. In some places, there are cracks and pulling away at the edges.
I tested three glazes from the same manufacturer. They belong to the same series and have the same recommended firing temperature. Black, red, and white. They are all matte glazes.
The black and red ones turned out fine, but the white one did not. In your opinion, is it underfired or overfired?

I haven't finished sculpting this piece, but I'm already wondering how to pull out the glazing I have in mind. I would like to do a red iron oxide wash on the octopus, with no glaze, and glaze the vase itself with Botz Blue Effect. With how small some of the spaces are between the octopus's arms though, I have no idea how to keep the glaze from getting on the octopus or the oxide from getting on the vase.

I guess the best way would be bisque firing -> oxide wash -> firing again-> vinyl resist on the octopus and glazing -> glaze firing, but I'd prefer to avoid firing 3 times if I can. Does anyone have any tips? I have shellac and vinyl at home, if it helps.

I'm investigating how Mayco SW-178 (Fools Gold) and SW-228 (Beetlewing) layer together. I'd love the freedom to reduction fire but alas, I only have oxidation available to me, and the provided samples tiles are in reduction at cone 10. I'm pretty amateur at pottery but my end goal is to find some easy-access (to Australia) combos of brown and green...

Has anyone had any experiences in firing either of these glazes to cone 10 oxidation?

Spent 5-6 hours making these yesterday in one sitting because I wanted to practice trimming. Took inspiration from how Florian Gadsby does his trimming. If you haven’t heard of him, do yourself a favor and go to his YouTube channel. The first 3 bowls are made with WSO clay and the last one was made with Bmix. Lmk if you think there is anything else I could do to perfect “the bowl.”