Yet another post asking for it. I know I'm not the only one. I hate that the only option I have is to either buy cheap parts on AliExpress to keep zombifying my old one, or pay a ridiculous amount of money for a Naga V3 that I know will not feel the same.

Come on, guys... The G600 was loved. It was the top of its category. I can't believe Logitech just gave up on this front...

Hi,

I have a Powerplay 2 charge mat I bought second hand, and I'm not convinced it's working, but there's so little instructions for it, I'm resorting to just crowdsourcing my answer.

When I plug the Powerplay 2 mat into any charging source, the white LED flashes on and then back off for a split second.

I'm using a Superstrike mouse with the puck in it, but I've also tried this with a G502 X - nothing I do with the mat seems to encourage it to 'charge'. It just does nothing. No lights come on other than at the point of plugging the USB charger in. The mouse is at 75%.

How exactly do I tell if the mat is actually working?

Should the LED light up regardless of the charge status or presence of the puck?

I've tried different USB ports, standalone powered USB sockets, in hubs, out of hubs, etc. and either I'm missing something very obvious, or, there's a fault with my Powerplay 2 mat, and I don't really know what to do.

Thanks in advance if anyone can help!

I can’t use my keyboard at all in the last two months, all the lights are the keyboard are stuck flashing.

Unsure if this is related but when my cat Yurek was a kitten, he chewed the USB-wire that came with the keyboard. I changed it for a regular power and data transfer cable, all is working swell. One day, I plugged it into my laptop (windows 11), and boom it is just flashing. I try it with my PC, that’s windows 10, and it says it is inactive if it’s not having repeated strobing of the lights.

I ran out to buy a different cord, no difference. I had to give up on trying for a bit because I had an online class that I was now late to. I tried again today, nothing. While flashing like a maniac, it is disconnecting and reconnecting. My G-HUB says it is inactive. When it was plugging in and out, it says to plug it back for an update. If I manage to connect it, long enough to recognize it (without touching any keys) no update happens. Firmware for Ghub says it’s up to date.

Am I just supposed to toss it now? This makes me kind of spooked to buy any other products. I already have an ergo mouse, a cheap set of headphones and webcam from logi. I was going to switch to the Aurora headphones but I am extremely disappointed this is happening.

Edit: i tried resetting with the esc key (plug out wire then press as wire is plugged back in, for 10 seconds) which works until I press any buttons. Then that stops working. It was working for a bit after I held the delete key, but that stopped working too.

So I have the Logitech G502 Hero and some of my buttons/inputs are delayed. But only the G6,G10 and the G11 buttons. Since yesterday if I press them the input is very delayed, there are also the only buttons with costume keybinds. My G6 is binded to 3 , My G11 and G10 are both binded to V, if this is important. Would really appreciate any help since many games are unplayable with that delay.

I wanted to secure a newer wheel and found this option today; it appears to be a solid upgrade for the cost. I am curious whether my Logitech G290 pedals and shifter might function temporarily with this wheel—I expect a specific cord will be required, which is acceptable—but I would like your perspective on this wheel for a casual gamer upgrading from an older setup, and whether the pro pedals justify the purchase.

I am running a small experiment to see if I can use my manual shifter and pedals linked to the old wheel for a short period, or whether I should accept the expense and obtain the full set. I simply want to confirm that $290 is worthwhile for the bundle. If my customized G290 shifter works with the pedals, I may return for them. What do you think? Thanks, everyone.

Hi all,

I am coming from a Surface Precision mouse which I loved, but the battery was starting to die, so I got the MX Master 4. I love it, but there is 1 thing which is bothering me - scrolling.

On the Surface Precision mouse, anywhere I was scrolling, it was smooth. I could scroll pixel by pixel, as movement of the scrolling wheel corresponds 1:1 to the movement on the screen, similar to how the scrolling on the touchpad of a Surface device works.

On the MX Master 4, it scrolls around 3 lines at once. OK, I enabled smooth scrolling, which resolves the issue in EDGE - scrolling is smooth again, YAY!

BUT - sometimes it works, other times it doesn't. Plus, outside of EDGE, no luck - scrolling is still not smooth. Doesn't matter if Teams, Word, Windows Explorer, Windows Settings, etc.

Does anyone know why or how it can be fixed?

I am thinking of getting this headset for extraction shooters, and was wondering if it has any known issues or if it is a good choice? I have the Razor BlackShark V2 X now, and I can’t make out exactly where people are based of audio.

Thanks everyone!

Is it normal that my mouse is still showing color on the logitech logo even after fully shutting down my pc , i've had g502 before and it never happened.

Hello! I've always had issues with G Hub and force feedback, however today my usual un plug and plug back in trick didn't work.

I have been playing BeamNG drive and regardless of what settings I use in the game, my steering wheel is really difficult to move. Usually my force feedback changes depending on what car I am in, however right now it has not and it is really starting to annoy me. Sometimes force feedback will disengage when I tab out and I will have no resistance at all, which is understandable, but sometimes even if I am still tabbed in but have gone to get a drink, my wheel will have gotten a lot of resistance and when I get back I'd have to recalibrate it again.

I have tried to alter the very limited amount of settings in the G Hub app and yet it still won't turn properly. Centring spring does work, which is making me think it could potentially be an issue with the game, however this has also happened on other simulators such as Assetto Corsa and other driving games such as Forza Horizon 5/6.

If anyone has a way to resolve this issue I would really appreciate the help. Thank you very much!

So I have this G840 League of Legends Edition mousepad, and about a month ago it started 'melting' onto my table. I already applied some adhesive, but it is still melting.

​I need help—has anyone gone through something like this before?

my table is MDF

Open GHub is a free, open-source (GPL-3.0) Windows app that talks to Logitech mice directly over HID++, the same protocol G HUB uses. You don't need G HUB installed.

What it does:

• DPI levels and report rate (up to 8000 Hz on mice that support it)
• Per-game profiles that switch automatically when a game comes to the foreground
• On-board memory editing, so settings stay on the mouse even with the app closed. It backs up the mouse's memory before every write and checks the result afterwards.
• Battery level in the tray, with low-battery notifications
• Import your existing G HUB profiles in one click
• Lightweight: about 27 MB of RAM in the tray, no polling, effectively zero idle CPU
• No account, no telemetry. The only network access is the update check, and you can turn it off.

Screenshots and download: https://github.com/abidr/open-ghub

Built with AI help: I built this with Claude Opus 5.5.

• It's an early version (0.1.2). I've only tested it properly on a PRO X SUPERLIGHT. It should work with other HID++ 2.0 Logitech G mice (G502 X, G Pro Wireless, G305, G703 and others), but I can't promise that yet.
• Mice only for now. No keyboards, headsets or RGB lighting.
• The installer isn't code-signed yet (I've applied to the SignPath Foundation for free open-source signing), so Windows SmartScreen will warn you. The full source is on GitHub, and every release is built from it by GitHub Actions.
• Quit G HUB while you use it, or the two will fight over the mouse.
• This is an independent project, not affiliated with Logitech.

How you can help: if you try it with a different mouse, I'd really appreciate a quick report of what works and what doesn't. There's a short device report form on GitHub, or just comment here. Bug reports and feature requests are welcome too. Button remapping is next on my list.

Thanks for reading!

Long story short.
For the past years i have only used the Logitech G910 but since the keyboard isnt existing anymore i was wondering what could be recommended as a replacement.
I like the general feeling of the G910 and its size.
The G buttons would also be something the next one should have (but not needing as many)
Since some of you may had to do the same or a similar swap i thought it would be the best to just get a general broad list of opinions etc

I dropped my mouse and the right click slipped out of place just like this, I did some research and apparently theres a hook that I have to slip the button back in. I tried with minimal force and its not quite working.. is there any other work around before I unscrew the mouse?

I have had this mouse for about 3 months. This damn mouse was great until it wasn't. I started having an issue where if the mouse was idle for too long or I restarted my pc, the mouse would stop working and become undiscoverable on Logitech g hub. I would then have to play a game of unplug the dongle and plug it back in until RANDOMLY it would start working again. I have a feeling this only started after I had a new firmware update through g hub, but I have no way to prove it. After digging into this issue, a.k.a googling and using reddit to find people with similar issues, I was surprised that a ton of people have had the same exact issue and not a single person has figured it out without RMA'ing the damn thing or just not using the dongle at all. For how much this mouse cost, it has by FAR has given me the most problems out of any wireless mouse I've owned. Mostly here to vent but if anyone has a solution, please feel free to enlighten me.

Hi Logitech G team!

I’m an RS50 owner who genuinely loves the direct-drive performance and force feedback of the Logitech RS50. However, I believe the RS ecosystem has so much more potential, especially when it comes to steering wheel designs and options.

Just look at the MOZA KS Pro! Its butterfly-style design looks absolutely stunning, modern and much closer to the steering wheels found in real GT3 and Formula racing cars. This is the kind of design I would love to see Logitech bring to the RS50 ecosystem!

Suggested Logitech RS50 wheel lineup:

RS GT3 Display Wheel — A butterfly-style design inspired by the MOZA KS Pro, with a built-in LCD screen, RGB rev lights, rotary controls and a premium racing-wheel feel.

RS Formula Display Wheel — A dedicated F1-style wheel with an integrated display, RPM lights, multiple controls and a professional formula racing design.

Realistic weight and feel — A solid, premium wheel with a weight and balance that feel closer to a real racing steering wheel, while remaining properly engineered for the RS50’s force feedback system.

Full native PS5, PS4 & PC compatibility — Plug-and-play support for the PlayStation-compatible RS50 base, with working buttons, paddles, display and telemetry in Gran Turismo 7 or other sim racing games, without requiring a PC or unsupported third-party adapters.

The RS50 is already a great wheelbase. The biggest thing missing is a wider selection of exciting steering wheels! The current options are limited, and many sim racers want something more immersive, modern and closer to the real GT3 and F1 experience.

I also strongly believe Logitech G should consider collaborating directly with Polyphony Digital, the developers of Gran Turismo 7, to create officially supported GT3 and Formula steering wheels designed specifically for the PlayStation ecosystem.

Such a collaboration could attract more GT7 players to Logitech, strengthen the RS ecosystem and give sim racers another compelling reason to choose Logitech over competing brands.

I can genuinely see myself buying both the GT3 and F1 versions if Logitech makes them properly compatible with PS5 and GT7. I believe many other sim racers would be interested too!

Logitech G, please don’t stop at making great wheelbases. Give us the steering wheels that match their potential! 🙏

Who else wants a Logitech RS50 butterfly-style GT3/F1 wheel with a built-in display? Let’s make our voices heard!

#LogitechG #RS50 #MOZAKSPro #GT7 #GranTurismo7 #PolyphonyDigital #PS5 #SimRacing

keeps saying this what do i do? i tried all the other ports worked fine before

I am at war with my Blue Yeti mic that I've had for years and years now. The thing is overly sensitive and the only way to remove my mouse en keyboard clicks is to put the gain to 0 and noise reduction to a max. As some might imagine, that's not doing wonders for the sound quality....

Now I wanted to try the settings in G Hub, but lo and behold, my mic is not showing up....like at all. In no way shape or form is that thing visible in G Hub. And I've tried everything at this point.

Also my PC calls the thing "USB Advanced Audio Device", while everything else has a normal name, is that right?

Help...please

Hi everyone,

I’m having trouble getting my Logitech G29 working on my Windows laptop.

Without any Logitech software installed: The wheel powers on, rotates during startup calibration, and seems to apply force feedback, but steering, pedals, and shifter inputs aren’t detected in games. Buttons are working

With Logitech G HUB or Logitech Gaming Software (LGS) installed: The wheel stops being detected properly and no longer performs its startup calibration.

In Windows (joy.cpl) when detected: The G29 appears in the controller list, but it cannot detect my steering pedal and shifter inputs

I’ve tried troubleshooting the software side, but I’m not sure whether this is a driver issue, a Windows joystick registration/calibration problem, or something else.
Has anyone experienced this and found a fix? Any advice would be appreciated!

Hello. I opened up my computer today to find out my pro x2 superstrike was not working. So I launched the g hub and the mouse was not even detected, but there is a prompt below saying that an unpaired receiver has been detected. Now after trying to pair the two, I get hit with a connection timed out. I have already tried uninstalling and reinstalling g hub, restarting computer, and a bunch of other things. What else can I do to fix this?!

I have a G PRO 2 Lightspeed mouse that I lost the receiver to. I also have a G915 X Lightspeed keyboard and its receiver, which apparently supports having a second device paired to it.

I have attempted going through the device pairing in G HUB, selecting the keyboard receiver, selecting "PRO 2 LIGHTSPEED", then turned my mouse off and on, and its not connecting. I've tried multiple times, different USB ports for the receiver, mouse is 100% charged and on latest firmware. Not sure what else I am missing?