This one seems stronger though. I pruned the top vine and started doing more plant food B instead of A

I always see people on the internet growing in green houses or outdoors and never really discussing the challenges that it presents. I live in east Texas so I know most people probably aren’t dealing with as much heat and humidity but it still seems like it would be a challenge without climate control regardless. Does something like a tower garden or NFT do better because the increased oxygen and lack of root submersion? Do they just all use water chillers? I was thinking of doing a system that just pumps water outdoors from a reservoir indoors and throwing up some shade cloth but I’m not really sure if that’s enough to stave off heat stress and root rot when it’s 100F outside.

I had the opportunity to visit this tomato farm today. Simply amazing. This is a commercial farm but reaffirmed the process and I got to see what can be achieved.

🌱 From tiny seedlings to fruiting vines. Every little cucumber is growing steadily in our greenhouse. 🥒

Hey everyone. I am starting to get into hydroponics. I'm planning to 3D print two vertical hydroponic towers:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/425481-a1-mini-smaller-higher-modular-hydroponic-tower#profileId-329095

One tower would be for leafy greens like lettuce and herbs. The other would be for fruit like dwarf mini tomatoes and mini peppers, cucumbers, etc. I see most set ups use vertical 4x T8 grow lights. However, these are kind of bulky, and I prefer the look of the LED rings.

Would 5 rings for a 4ft tower be enough? Are there any recommendations for the type of LED tape? I would 3D print some holders.

Is there a yield difference between 4 x T8s vs 5 rings that I should be aware of?

I decided to get into hydroponics after my summer crop of peppers and tomatoes got destroyed by insects, rats and heat. I'm growing 3 plants. One in a Letpot max in a tent (where most of these came from) and two in 10 litre Kratky buckets under a 100w light. Very happy with the results!

Trellised hydroponic cucumbers under greenhouse. Steady harvest ahead.

I apologize in advance if this isn't allowed.

I'm wanting to find a good hydroponic tower that would be suitable for my family of 4. I originally fell in love with the Gardyn 4, but hate how I can't customize the starter plants. I'd like a tower that can hold a similar amount (30 plants) and comes with lights. And auto watering system would be a nice bonus, but certainly not necessary.

If it helps: I'd be using it to grow herbs, lettuce and spinach, dwarf cherry tomatoes, and everbearing strawberries.

My garden was so bushy, but this is the 4th time I’ve dealt with root rot killing my herbs. I do maintenance every 7-12 days depending when water runs low. I put nutrients when I clean tank. I keep PH between 5.5-6.5 like I’ve seen a few posts recommend. Ive tried hydrogen peroxide, I’m not sure if I’m putting too much or too little for my 3L tank. Is it just a one time hydrogen peroxide treatment or do i have to do it daily? My roots are literally disintegrating. It looks like my sage, dill & cilantro are suffering the most. Should I restart with them or am I able to save them?

What can cause this to the outer leaves? The new ones seem fine.

Are these flowers budding on my red bell pepper? 😍 I know it's silly, but I'm so excited for them!

The previous post can be found here.

There's not a whole lot to really get into here as the grow is humming right along with the conditions nature is giving me. September and the first half of October outside were well above normal temperatures. As a result, grow daytime temperatures have been really high. For those of you with a good eye, you can see heat stress on the plants due to some of the leaves cupping upwards (and a bit of a uneven leaf texture on some leaves). Temperatures are expected to fall next week, and we should finally start to see the plants settling in to more of a normal routine in November.

In addition, transplant shock was really rough on the plants this year. Some of the closer up images show Ca deficient leaves, and those were the ones forming from day 0-7 (give or take) which have now matured and fully extended out. It was relatively short lived as you can see in the last image that all current new leaf growth is looking great.

I don't bother snipping the flowers off as I'm a little greedy with wanting to eat strawberries early. This year the first harvested strawberry was 17 days after transplant. Admittedly however, doing this would likely have reduced the transplant shock a little bit more.

Powdery mildew made an appearance right on schedule exactly at the first day of week 4 since transplant, and not in any significant quantity. The beneficial bacteria which was applied to the plants when transplanting did not seem to better deal with the powdery mildew than just using potassium bicarbonate, but it also wasn't worse either. The plants will receive their cycle of foliar sprays for powdery mildew through to week 8, and as per the last few years, they should no longer need spraying after week 8.

As boron levels have been rectified in the starting water, you can see nice deep green older leaves in the pictures. They are not brittle, nor yellowing as in prior years. Nutrient levels are within normal for the water, and upcoming tissue analysis in November will likely return good values across the board. I'm not seeing anything crazy outside of what the plants are being exposed to with high temperatures to cause concern.

I am very impressed with the Florice variety. It may be hard to see in the pictures I took, but the plants are almost double in leaf mass as opposed to the Albions. Now, some of that is accounted for the plug size of plant I received (the Florice were a little bit further along at transplant time). However, even allowing for that metric, they've still pulled further ahead of Albions subjected to the exact same growing conditions. The Florice plants also just look happier and healthier, not that the Albions are sickly or unhappy. I think if you look a little more closely at the first image, you can likely tell which are Florice plants, and which are Albions ("A" on the closest bottom row bag are Albions, and Florice are directly behind it in the second bottom row). I've also been able to taste test a handful of Florice strawberries alongside Albion strawberries over the past ~two weeks. The flavour and juiciness of Florice is definitely there. In the past I've had a hard time finding anything as good as an Albion. There were berries that came close, but this I can resoundingly say is equal or maybe even slightly better at this growth stage. I will reserve final judgement until the new year as I want to have the plants grow in their optimal temperature environment in November and December and produce berries off of that. But, I don't expect them to get worse with bettering environmental conditions. The Karima's haven't produced any berries yet. I only have ten Karima plants, so they're a small sample size. It's possible if I had 100 of them (as I do Florice and Albions each), I may have had some Karima berries by now. Patience is a virtue though and I'm happy with what's been so far this year!

Pest pressure is low. Predator insects were deployed 4-5 days after transplant. I have yet to see anything other than the odd fungus gnat, and there's predators in place for their larvae. Numbers have not increased in the last four weeks. I'm hoping to not jinx this, but so far no signs of aphids, spider mites or thrips. There are of course preventative predator insects in the grow now for any pest insect I've seen in prior years.

It's too soon to talk about the other metrics I've added per my last post detailing them. The next update will likely touch on those topics.

Project Healing Balm update: 275 days of recovery, hydroponic growth, terrestrial conversion, and offset development

October 20, 2026. Day 276, counting January 18 as Day 1.

This aloe originated as an offset from an older Lowe’s plant sold as medicinal aloe. Species remains unconfirmed; Aloe vera is plausible.

The experiment began as a recovery project and a test of sustained growth in continuously aerated hydroponics. It has since shifted toward terrestrial root establishment and correcting mechanical instability.

Hydroponic phase

The plant grew in a LECA-filled net pot over approximately four gallons of continuously aerated nutrient solution.

The established four-gallon formula was:

- Masterblend 4-18-38: 2 tsp

- Magnesium sulfate: 1 tsp

- Calcium nitrate: 2 tsp

- Bio-SuperSil: 4 tbsp

One documented reservoir reset finished at 784 ppm TDS before pH adjustment. After adjustment, pH was 6.1. The following morning measured 768 ppm and pH 6.0. These are meter readings, not a laboratory nutrient analysis.

The plant developed extensive roots and substantial foliage. A partially closed airline valve caused an unintended low-aeration episode accompanied by floating root-zone biofilm. The corrective intervention consisted of approximately half a cup of hydrogen peroxide, restored aeration overnight, and a subsequent reservoir reset. Peroxide concentration was not specified in the available record. The plant recovered and resumed growth. No specific pathogen was identified, and the combined intervention does not establish which component accounted for recovery.

Around late May, lighting changed from improvised bulbs to a VEVOR 400 W fixture, initially operated at approximately 50% power.

Terrestrial conversion

In August, the plant was removed from hydroponics, given a drying/callusing interval, and established in an approximately three-gallon decorative plastic planter with extensive drilled sidewall and bottom perforations. The attached drip tray was retained.

That is still the container shown in the current photographs.

During hydro removal, tiny developing pups were found beneath the LECA. Offset initiation therefore occurred before terrestrial conversion.

The first photographed above-substrate pup emergence was September 23. The October 20 photographs show a substantially developed pup with multiple leaves and a smaller shoot that may represent another offset. Its identity is not yet confirmed.

Current result

The mother maintains substantial foliage, and basal offset development has continued after terrestrial conversion. The buried root system has not been inspected, so survival of the entire original hydro root mass cannot be claimed.

The persistent problem is mechanical: too much fucking aloe above the container. The canopy has considerable leverage relative to the vessel footprint and still requires support.

Next intervention — not yet performed

A five-gallon plastic air-pot is planned, using:

- 40% buffered coco husk chips

- 20% EP Minerals Play Ball! calcined clay

- 25% LECA

- 10% charged biochar

- 5% clinoptilolite zeolite

The intended procedure includes selective lower-leaf removal, wound callusing, and deeper placement of healed bare stem while keeping retained leaf bases above the substrate. The objective is improved stability and possible additional stem-derived roots.

The substrate will receive an initial mineral precharge, followed by an organic fertility program. Application rates remain unresolved.

The clearest result so far: this plant sustained hydroponic growth, initiated offsets during that phase, and continued offset development after terrestrial establishment. Whether the next substrate and planting geometry improve anchorage remains to be tested.

Variety Flamenco

Very pernickety, would not try again

I see them all over the place outside of the USA, on the toobs, et al. I know Cropking has some but it seems all of theirs have pre-punched holes. Even the cheap ones from Ali and Temu are pre-punched. Is there any reputable seller for such a thing, in the US, that I don't need to have a commercial grow to purchase from? Just wanting to experiment a little with a living room system.

Thanks in advance

Very new to hydroponics and have been experimenting with growing different plants. This is a LetPot system. The mold on the surface was underneath a strawberry plant. There is also mold on the pump wire inside of the system. I plan to clean everything, remove the plants, and start over. I want to prevent this from happening moving forward.

Es geht looohooos

​

I'm building a space bucket and removed the plastic diffusers from 5 LED bulbs to get more direct light.

- Bulbs: LEDVANCE Value Classic A 100, model AC70645, 13W each, 220–240V AC, 95mA, 1521 lm.

- Total power: 65W (3 bulbs at 2700K, 2 at 4000K).

- Setup: The exposed LED boards are mounted on the lid, about 5cm above a proposed barrier.

- Barrier: 2mm clear polystyrene (PS, recycling code 6), 50×50cm, flexible, smooth surface.

I want to keep the bulbs without their diffusers and use this sheet to prevent contact with the LEDs. I don't want to buy additional equipment if possible.

How can I make this setup safe? Is the polystyrene suitable for the heat, and can a plastic barrier protect against the electrical risk of exposed LED boards? What would you do with these exact materials?

Hello, I started 3 pepper plants in my hydroponic system a few weeks ago. 2 of my pods sprouted and after some time I realized my seeds in the 3rd pod were just not going to grow. I just added about 3 more seeds into the sponge and covered it back up. That was about a week ago and I just noticed that there are these weird little light specs on the sponge. Does anyone know what these might be? I’ve grown these exact same seeds in this exact hydroponic system and had great success, this is my second time trying this again. Thank you