Finished modifying my 2nd hori VLX. All the oem components are preserved if possible. The noir didnt have the OEM buttons and the board was fried when I bought it. Just finished the noir with a Brooks Wireless board, Crazy Dongpal pro, and gamerfinger buttons.

The red one has seimitsu nobi bullet, crown buttons, brook wireless 5w.

Would like to collect all the colors some day but Ive been generally hunting down deals which are getting rarer.

Hey everyone! We're FightBox Arcade.

We just released our new FightBox F8 Exclusive, featuring beautiful purple cloud artwork!

Here's the button setup:

• Main buttons: Crown/Samducksa SDB-202C (Pink & Purple)
• L3/R3: Seimitsu PS-14-DN-K 24mm (Purple)
• Side buttons: Seimitsu PS-14-DN-K 24mm (Light Green)

Why mix different buttons? Crown offers fast, responsive inputs, while Seimitsu provides a different tactile feel, making it easier to distinguish auxiliary controls from the main buttons.

Do you like this color combo? 😄

Como eu conserto isso? A minha é uma placa pico rasberry

Decided to stop lurking, make a real account and post something I've been working on!

I love retro gaming and fighting games and I wanted a project to play around with some extra wood I had. The case is solid sapele and the top is a ray burst with five different wood species on a birds eye maple background. Stick is an Ultimarc Ultrastik with Seimitsu 30mm buttons. The Ultrastik is amazing if you're into emulating cabinet games - it's full analog with user-configurable mappings of the whole analog range to directional inputs and I have it mounted with a top-accessible restrictor so you can instantly switch between 4-way, 8-way and full analog. It also takes up to 8 analog button inputs so you don't need an additional board.

Works great, been playing Turtles in Time with the kids and got back into Tekken too. Few things I'd do differently with the case... it's kind of a chonky boi partly because of how you have to package the Ultrastik with the top restrictor plate and also I just wasn't focused on building an exquisite carcass for this project.

Really, really enjoyed building it though, a lot more than most woodworking projects I do. I've already got a refined design sketched up that's slimmed down with a wrist rest and took a commission to build a matched set of them that will help me test out a new carcass build with some really beautiful woods and finishes.

Thanks for looking!

Hello everyone!

Today I’d like to share this commissioned fightstick I made.
Goku collage style art
Sanwa joystick + octagonal gate
Clear bubble ball top and clear buttons
GP2040 PCB + custom sleeved PCB wiring
Custom RGB wiring for the buttons, lever, and enclosure
Shoulder strap
Commissions open

Happy fightstick friday and great weekend!

https://www.facebook.com/share/v/1DuH9ufGBw/

Preferably I want it to be just like Tekken 8 when I play SF6, but in SF6 the buttons are too sensitive to the lightest of touches and this makes me whiff/mis-input a lot in SF6.

I have a Qanba Obsidian 2 (Q7) viewlix with the stock Sanwa JLF and want to upgrade to the Fujin III 2-Stage Mid Collar from IST Mall.

Can it be mounted on Qanba Obsidian 2? Which housing option should I select from ISTmall for compatibility?
• Change 2-stage Upper MCT Housing
• Change 2-stage Upper & Lower MCT Housing (+$15)

Has anyone installed this specific Fujin III version on an Obsidian 2? I’d appreciate advice from someone with hands-on experience before ordering.

The only reason I’m going for Fujin III is because I’m a mishima player and I like fanta levers with properly defined diagonals.

Thanks! 🙏

As best of a condition I could find for almost $50 from Yahoo! Auctions Japan. Bought this purely out of nostalgia from my PS3 Q3 RAF I originally had one back in early 2010, the only problem with the PS3 edition were that the standard versions for PS3 were exclusively wireless via dongle so I had it dual modded.

Qanba at this time was such a time capsule with their partnership with Empire Arcadia (EMP with Trifoce being the head of the organization with a lot of OGs from the New York scene) to the point where I gladly chose the PS3 version over the EMP Edition with the Q4's top handle design. It's a shame that the cord compartment door's rubber hanger probably broke due to drying out and it came without the 360 breakaway end cable that I luckily had an extra laying around.

Made this on stream today for my first official customer crazyest !!! I was testing the controller out on USF4 because why not lol 😂 I am not a leverless user so I do what I know.

Just wanted to share this custom FightBox F1 leverless controller! 🎮

The beautiful artwork was created by the talented artist LL (@LL_0109) on X.

We love how the artwork looks on the F1, especially with the matching button colors!

Huge thanks to LL for this awesome design! ❤️

What do you guys think of this setup? 😄

Hey folks!! I am looking to treat myself to a high end leverless to celebrate losing 80lb on my weight loss journey so far and I’m not sure which one I want. I have seen a post comparing two of my choices with some interesting info but I want to add a third option into the mix.

Looking at:
Victrix Pro KO
Qanba Sapphire
Haute42 X1

I’m playing on PC and interested in starting to go to locals so being able to connect to their set up is important to consider. I play SF6 exclusively. Right now I’m rocking an 8bitdo and love the layout and size of buttons. I changed the switches to silent tactile but don’t mind if the buttons make a bit of noise.

Anyone have any thoughts? Thanks so much

Happy FSF! Picked this up for pretty cheap. Cleaned it up inside and out, made small repairs and upgrades and it is working great again! I like how it turned out.

• Replaced switches in first 6 buttons with Sanwa SW-68 switches
• Installed 7th and 8th button deletes 😄
• Filed down the edge of the square gate to remove a rough lip that was digging into the original actuator. When I first opened the controller, there was a mess of plastic shavings. Seems like an odd manufacturing defect. The gate had worn a groove into the actuator deep enough that it would catch and leave the joystick stuck in the UP position. Replaced the damaged actuator with a spare.
• CF vinyl wrap

I'm on the fence about adding a neurtrik port. Don't want to "ruin" it in case I decide to sell.

An interesting thing I noticed is this controller uses a 5 pin switch board on the lever where the switches are labeled MF which I assume stands for Mayflash. These controllers usually have each switch freely floating and 2 wires soldered to the terminals. Is there a later revision of this controller?

got these two yesterday in the mail! added a seimitsu lever to the Qanba! bonus guest my Street fighter edition Victrix KO

I recently make a post about my 2020 PS4 Nacon Daija, and a lot of you share your opinion that is not worth changing to a new stick(which is what I also thinks), but some of user told me it is maybe worth upgrading with new parts. I don’t know much about arcade parts, so I ask for help from you again ;)

1. What are recommended sellers with world wide or European shipping(I live in Poland)

2. What sources of information do you recommend to read/watch about certain parts?

3. Which buttons/sticks do you recommend from your experience. I am mostly focused in playing MBAAAC, but also casually play different fighters like Tekken, or Soulcalibur

Check out my first order for the OKI Hatch since I updated the website. You now have the option to choose premium acrylic. Lots of fun colors to choose from and they show a preview on the generated 3D model. The user experience is best on a Mac or pc. Jackwagonfightsticks.com

My Fightstick Commissions!

Case from Eternal Rivals, art from @Lukasfightsticks. Qanba KS rgb buttons (will be set to purple once I install) and the pink is it's tongue.

Like, yeah, the title explains it. I got these pieces for a fightstick recently, like three weeks ago, and I've been having this problem almost since two days in, where the stick makes double inputs into one direction. I've been trying to fix it, and then I realized that if I move the cables a bit, the misinputs stop, but the more I play, it keeps acting like that again. I've tried to tape them to stop the movement, change the cables position, plugging and unplugging, and it keeps happening on every direction. Is this fixable? Could they be the cables? Or should I just get one that uses a single cable instead of those four connectors?

We were trying to solve a problem how me and my brother could share alternating lives on ghosts and goblins Resurrection with one person using a pad and another person using a fight stick.

And trying to find the best setup for every game I come to notice something, some truth that people know in their God is true but can't seem to explain

. Most non fighting games are optimized for pads not sticks.

For example the Super NES default fighting stick arrangements I call YBA after the bottom row of the fight stick of your kicks which is how they map on most back in the day fight sticks. However that particular arcade stick predates Street Fighter 2. If someone were to play a Super NES fighting game with a modern stick they prefer a BAR bottom row.

And trying to play The Genesis version of Street Fighter special championship on Nintendo Switch Online using a fight stick is very frustrating. It's the only six button game I know of that is essentially required on the Sega Genesis NSO pack. That only do they not get it right, they make it so you can't easily make it right with an individual game setting for Sega Genesis. Even the NES has the ability to swap A and B individually based on games.

But it got me thinking how come the Beeshu Ultimate Super Stick S (the Sega Master System version) even though it correctly maps 1 and 2 as index-to-index on a right-handed stick mapping for the left-handed buttons why do a lot of Sega games feel backwards with the Beeshu controller but with the Sega-offered fight stick which is right handed but is actually left-to-left map, feel better for most Master System games?

(Thankfully since Sega Master System uses uncoded buttons by next Thursday I'll have a solution for that. Its a button remapper that all it is is just a DB9 male to female connector that swaps the two button pins)

The answer I noticed when you map for thumb sticks you put the most frequently used buttons on the bottom and to the outside of the center horizontally. But a fight stick you put the most used buttons on the bottom and inside of the center horizontally. in other words underneath your index finger.

Even Brook the maker of fightstick adapters made the Genesis adapter that very bizarrely first of all it only works with PlayStation coded sticks. So trying to find an Xbox to Genesis converter is tough, but second more important issueb to this discussion is the mapping is all ruined if their primary audience is fight games. If you don't remember the fight stick code relative to your new fight stick you're going to have a tough time using it there is an easy swap mode but by default they put you in three button pad mode.

Also the way the Super Nintendo defined the main button of the SNES as the B button not the a button like it did originally was very awkward placing out on the floor and try to get that index finger on the Y. Not only that a lot of Nintendo NES games felt backwards, with no way to change it. Button that should be jump on Super Mario Bros should be the B button in their system because it's underneath your index finger instead it's the A button, is under your middle finger. They designed it so that reaching over with your index finger to the Y was very awkward.

Then again they designed it for holding in your hand which is the one flaw that the American game systems introduced that has frankly not gone away that that is the disease of what's holding back ergonomics. I know the second generation started it with handheld controllers but if they had true tabletop / floor top / desktop arcade sticks those would be way easier to ambidexterize and those would not give you pains holding the joystick in asymmetric arrangements.

The main reason why Americans like Atari, Mattel and Coleco introduced compact handheld sticks was because of the retail reality of shelf space, if you have giant fight sticks it's going to take more shelf space and you don't have as much room to stock your stuff therefore if stores charge you by the area of the shelf space your goal is to reduce it as much as possible.

The one company that could have fought back in Japan did not take advantage of the American design of the joystick. No, not the sg1000 Mark 1 which has American style vertical layouts and the pain inducing requirements of supporting the weight of the joystick with your hand, the device they should have took of advantage of was the direct one-to-one wiring of all six inputs north south east west one and two it was very easy to make those Master System pads ambidextrous, just introduce either a switch or a dongle that swaps north and south and swaps east and west and voila with the cord going to your button side outside it easily swaps into a right-handed pad. Likewise the fight sticks that could have just as easily been invertible.

If you notice the problem I know this which was that some games you might want to invert the buttons you could just make a simple button inverter that swaps one and two and that's as simple as a passive dongle or a switch.

So if anyone is to blame why no one goes for fightsticks as basic controllers anymore it's retail stock shelving policies that don't want to stock them as included equipment in systems except for the Neo Geo which was already considered the Rolls-Royce of video game consoles when it was contemporary, it was the American game designers that required handheld joysticks and couldn't think beyond that help handheld requirement. Japan refined it but I believe that was the whole cause of it so America is not blameless in this either.

Frankly the day they stopped calling themselves arcade sticks and started calling themselves fight sticks is the day that gave game makers license to just simply ignore fightsticks because they were branding themselves as specially controllers, not everyday controllers.

When I bought my first Genesis Sinister stick custom made from KY Enterprises back in the day, I was using that all the time until it literally broke 2 weeks later. I understand their level of craftsmanship was designed assuming you have either an insurance or government funded handyman on premises to soldering those controllers correctly. For the average non- handicapped person the KY Enterprises joystick was a dud. Yes I could literally play all my Sega Genesis games Sega CD and 32x games with a Sega fight stick except for the ones that were literally made for three buttons only and had run time problems with the three buttons.

Up until the N64, every game was in theory playable with the fight stick. Then Nintendo did something radical: they forced you to use the analog. For some games it makes sense, like Super Mario 64, for other games it does not, like Yoshi's Story. Sega was committed to the original arcade and digital design enough that almost no game required the analog stick even Nights, their signature game that shows off the analog stick, could in theory be played with a digital stick. It may not be in its best form, but it is still possible to play. If you could beat the game Nights with 100% digital controls you've done what is probably nearly impossible, PlayStation had all digital and promised on their PS1 DualShock games until Ape Escape which required the dual analogs that pretty much every game was playable with the digital fight stick.

I'm surprised people don't make analog fight sticks for non fight games which require an analog control but could use the touch of a flight stick.

This topic is mainly for the people who play a wide variety of games and not just fight games only, but this would answer the question for who would like to use fight sticks in non fight games who think it's really hard and painful to do it. I'm explaining why as best as I can with my limited knowledge and my observations,

Today, Mjolnir from BattleMonkey.

I'm using the 8Bitdo Arcade Controller the Translucent Purple. Applying custom artwork on the top. Change the stock purple switch to Haute42 Shadow Matcha. And change the stock purple keycaps to the gold keycaps on the Upgrade Kits. So far, I'm loving this controller.