r/FATTravel • u/CodiGoFar • 5h ago
Bürgenstock Hotel & Resort Lake Lucerne | Review
I was just in Switzerland and stayed at a few resorts that come up often here (and a couple that are not talked about a ton) and excited to share my experience with you all.
First up is the Bürgenstock in Lake Lucerne. This is a property I had wanted to see for a long time, and happy we got the opportunity to check it out. Overall it was a fantastic stay, we got super lucky with the weather (given it was mid-September), and the views were on point. It was my husband and I on a couples trip, and this was the perfect place for a 3 night stay.
I’m a mod here and a TA, I had a complimentary night and paid for the other two. A couple other reviews to look out for soon from places we stayed this trip - Chedi Andermatt, Hotel 1732 (Vals), Dolder Grand Zurich, La Reserve Zurich. I also toured MO Lucerne & Zurich and Park Hotel Vitznau again (which I have stayed at before).
Overview and Overall Impressions
The first thing everyone will tell you about the Bürgenstock is the views, and they’re right. Views, views, VIEWS, and then more views. The resort sits on a ridge roughly 500 meters above the lake, so on a cloudy day you can find yourself sitting above the clouds even, which is one of the more surreal things I’ve experienced at a hotel (just one of the mornings). On a clear day it’s one of my favorite views so far from a room that I’ve stayed in. So stunning. It’s very possible, however, to get socked in and not have a view at all - so be careful with shoulder season.
What I didn’t fully appreciate before arriving is how much history this place holds. Two businessmen from Kerns bought the land on the Bürgenberg in 1871 and opened the first hotel in 1873. The Park Hotel and the funicular followed in 1888, the Palace in 1903, the Hammetschwand Lift in 1905 (which is so cool!), and the golf course in 1928. The entire resort was then rebuilt over several years and reopened in 2017 under Katara Hospitality, the Qatari owners. It’s part of the Leading Hotels of the World portfolio. Throughout the property they have these “halls of history,” long corridors lined with timelines, photos and stories, and I could have easily spent an hour just reading the walls (I know, I’m a weird hotel nerd, but I think there may be a few others like me in this sub, lol).
A few highlights from those walls:
- Audrey Hepburn married Mel Ferrer in the Bürgenstock chapel in 1954. The couple went on to live in a house on the property, and their son Sean was christened in that same chapel. There’s a photo on the walls of Hepburn’s first golf swing.
- Sean Connery and the Goldfinger cast and crew stayed at the Palace in 1964 while filming the Swiss scenes.
- Konrad Adenauer spent the summer of 1950 here following the Schuman Plan negotiations, Nehru, Indira Gandhi and Charlie Chaplin were photographed here together in 1953, and Jimmy Carter visited in 1960.
- It has also hosted major peace talks over the years, including Sudan in 2002, Cyprus in 2004, and the Ukraine peace summit in 2024.
An important note: the Bürgenstock is very much a destination for day visitors as well as hotel guests. In the summer months there are up to 2,000 non-hotel visitors a day coming up the mountain. They can take the boat from Lucerne, ride the funicular up, dine at the restaurants with a reservation, buy a day pass to the Alpine Spa, and visit the lookout. Because of that, the resort can feel much busier than the hotel itself actually is, and it was my least favorite part of the stay overall. It isn’t a dealbreaker, but if privacy and exclusivity are at the top of your list, it’s worth knowing (more on this in the comparison section below).
That said, there is so much to love here. The flower arrangements in the lobby changed almost daily and were stunning every single time, and there is truly so much to do on property that I could have stayed much longer than I did. If you’re looking for an amenity rich hotel, this one has a ton to offer.
A Quick Hot Take
More and more hotels have started putting guardrails on influencer content, and I’m happy to see that Bürgenstock is one of them. Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc did the same after multiple incidents of people showing up to a lunch reservation with a duffle bag of outfits, then changing throughout the property for photo shoots. I think we can all agree this is getting a little out of hand.
The outdoor infinity pool at the spa here looks like it’s spilling right over the lake, and it’s the shot you’ve seen all over social media. Phones are only allowed during set hours, 9am to 12pm and 5pm to 7pm. Limiting phone hours is a step in the right direction, and I appreciate that the thought is there. But five hours a day is still a lot of time to have phones out at what should be one of the most relaxing spots on property. I’d vote for one hour in the morning and one in the afternoon, personally. I’ll talk more about the spa and pool below.
Getting There
Getting to the Bürgenstock is half the fun, and it’s super easy - much easier than I had originally thought. We took the train into Lucerne and walked to the port, where the hotel’s complimentary boat departs at :07 past every hour. There’s a first class / hotel guest section as well as an upper deck, and the ride across the lake takes about 20 minutes.
The boat drops you at the landing, and you take the funicular up which takes about 4 minutes total. Sit on the right hand side if you’re facing forward. There’s a cost for non-hotel guests to ride up. Free if you’re staying on property. Arriving with luggage was seamless. The team took our bags the moment we stepped off the boat, and we didn’t see them again until they were waiting for us in our room. I don’t even remember giving anyone our name. It was super smooth.
The Buildings, Rooms, and where to stay
This is the most important section to understand before you book, because there are technically three hotels at the Bürgenstock (four if you include the residences), and they could not be more different from one another.
The Bürgenstock Hotel (the Contemporary building):
These are the iconic modern rooms you have probably seen on social media, with floor-to-ceiling windows and freestanding bathtubs and window benches looking straight out over the lake. It is the heart of the resort and the closest to the spa and most of the amenities. If I’m going all the way to the Bürgenstock, this is where I would stay, and where our room was.
The Palace Hotel:
The Palace opened in 1903 and is the historic building of the group. All of the rooms have been fully renovated, but it still has a much more classic, Belle Époque feel. It connects to the main hotel through a long hallway lined with the history timelines I mentioned above, which makes for a pretty special walk. The Palace was fully booked while I was there, so unfortunately I wasn’t able to see any rooms to post pictures of. It’s a nice alternative if the Contemporary rooms are sold out, just know it is a longer walk to the spa and amenities and does not have the iconic full window-views.
The Waldhotel:
This is the lifestyle / budget-concious option. It faces the Alps rather than the lake, and while the views are still lovely, you don’t get that feeling of being above Lake Lucerne that makes this property so special. It’s about a 6 minute walk to the Bürgenstock Hotel, but it’s straight uphill, there is a shuttle running between the two and easy to call for one. I’m sharing this mainly to help people understand the difference, as I personally don’t think this is the place to stay. Interesting background: the Waldhotel originally opened as a luxury medical wellness hotel, with clinic space and doctors’ offices built in. Those spaces went vacant after Covid and have not been refilled. The team hinted that they plan to redo it, and there is a lot of space to work with, so I’m curious to see what they do with it.
We stayed in the Contemporary building in a Contemporary Lake View Bay Suite and absolutely loved it. The room was spacious and beautifully designed, with a separate seating area, a walk-in closet, a fireplace, and an incredible bathtub positioned to take in the view.
One tip for booking: the Deluxe Rooms and the Lake View Bay Suites are the same size (452 sq ft), so the view is really what you’re paying for in the upgrade. Deluxe Rooms are going to have some obstruction in your view, albeit still a beautiful one. I personally think they should categorize these both the same (probably both should be rooms) and have the differentiator be the view - not room vs suite for the same layout and size of room with different views.
I also have to mention the linens. The towels were some of the softest ever, a true 10/10, and the robes were just as good. It’s one of those small details that makes a big difference over a few nights.
Service
Service was warm and welcoming from start to finish, and every encounter we had with the team was lovely.
We weren’t feeling great when we arrived, and we mentioned it in passing at check-in. Within minutes, the team had sent up an entire wellness amenity, on top of the welcome amenity already in the room, with tea, fresh ginger, water, lemon, honey and dried fruit. It was such a thoughtful gesture and exactly what we needed.
The concierge team was also a highlight. When we sat down with a few questions, they spent a good 30 minutes with us helping us get the lay of the land and understand all of the activities available. They walked us through the hiking routes, told us the best times to go, which shortcuts to take, and where it was worth walking a little further on the path to find some of the lesser-known spots along the way.
My husband left a jacket at the golf course. The team found it within minutes, and it was already waiting in our room before we even made it back from asking about it.
Breakfast service was the one exception, I have more notes about the breakfast below, but to have breakfast in such an incredible location, they should bulk up the experience, service, and offerings imo.
But overall everything was done well.
Food & Beverage
Overall, the food was good, but not incredible. Everything we had was well executed, but outside of one restaurant, nothing truly stood out.
Breakfast was slightly disappointing, given the setting and the potential they have here. There are plenty of options, but I think they could go beyond the basics on the à la carte menu and bring in some more interesting dishes. I ended up ordering a pretty simple breakfast each morning and always felt it was a little underwhelming. It is served in Spices (by night) and a truly incredible spot to have a meal, so the food has a lot of living up to it in order to match it.
The standout for me was Spices Kitchen & Terrace. The concept alone is fantastic. The restaurant is built around several open kitchen “bays,” each dedicated to a different Asian cuisine, with full Chinese, Indian, Thai and Japanese menus. We ended up eating here more than one night because we wanted to keep trying more of the menu. It was my favorite restaurant on property by far.
The rest of the lineup:
- Brasserie Ritzcoffier: Classic French brasserie with lake views. In the warmer months, the Palace Terrace serves sunset cocktails and small bites.
- Oak Grill & Pool Patio: Farm-to-table cooking over a wood-fired grill, with a focus on Swiss meats.
- Parisa: Persian cuisine.
- Restaurant Verbena & Bar: The healthy-living concept, built around its herb gardens.
- Osteria Alpina: Traditional Italian in an alpine setting, near the golf course.
- Taverne 1879: A historic chalet-style restaurant serving traditional Swiss dishes.
- Lakeview Bar & Cigar Lounge: Classic cocktails, afternoon tea, and, as the name suggests, beautiful lake views.
- Salon1903 Palace Lounge & Terrace: The historic bar and lounge in the Palace.
There is certainly no shortage of restaurants on property, but in my opinion, nothing beyond Spices was groundbreaking.
Amenities & Activities
This is where the Bürgenstock really shines. There is an enormous amount to do here, and you could easily fill several days without ever leaving the Alps.
The Alpine Spa is the centerpiece, and it is massive, over 100,000 sq ft with five pools. It’s beautifully designed, and it’s easily one of the biggest selling points of the resort. A few of the spaces I loved most:
- Infinity pool: The outdoor infinity pool looks like it’s spilling right over the lake. There are designated no-phone hours here (9am-12pm, 5pm-7pm), which is a nice gesture, but I’m in for a petition to reduce this as mentioned. Lol.
- Floating baths: Probably my favorite spa amenity, and the most relaxed I’ve felt in a very long time, maybe anywhere.
- Tea room: Climb up to one of the high cubbies if you can. It’s magical, and the perfect spot to unwind between treatments.
- Infrared chair & room: Loved this.
- There are tons of other saunas, steam rooms, co-ed facilities, women’s and men’s facilities, and pretty much every little relaxation corner you can find.
This spa won’t disappoint. I should also mention - no phones in the spa beyond the infinity pool during designated hours.
I had both a treatment and a facial while I was there. Supria did my facial, and she is worth traveling for. She is incredible. If you have the opportunity to book with her, DO IT. You won’t regret it.
Beyond the spa:
- Hammetschwand Lift: About a 30 minute walk from the hotel along a cliffside path, which is a beautiful walk in itself. The lift opened in 1905, the first of its kind in Switzerland, and it is still the highest outdoor elevator in Europe. It runs up a 118 m steel lattice tower attached to the side of the cliff. There's a restaurant waiting at the top. I’m terrified of heights, but glad we did this. There is a ticketed cost to use the elevator.
- Golf: The course first opened in 1928 and reopened after a redesign in 2016. It’s a 9-hole, walking-only course with some pretty unreal views for a round of golf.
- Hiking: Trails start right outside the hotel. I’d recommend sitting down with the concierge before you head out, as they’ll point you toward the best routes, shortcuts and lookouts.
- Tennis: There are indoor courts, which is such a great feature in Switzerland where the weather can change quickly. Roger Federer even filmed a campaign on these courts.
- Cinema: A 69-seat private movie theater on property.
- Wine Room: Great for celebrations and private dinners.
How It Compares to competitors in Lucerne
In my opinion, there are three hotels around Lucerne that are worth staying at: the Bürgenstock, Park Hotel Vitznau, and the Mandarin Oriental Lucerne. Each serves a very different type of traveler.
- Bürgenstock: Incredible for the views, a great fit for tennis players, and ideal for anyone who wants to walk out the door and onto a hiking trail. Because of the day visitors and spa day passes, though, it offers much less privacy and exclusivity than Vitznau. Overall more family friendly than other options in the area.
- Park Hotel Vitznau: My favorite for staying right on the water, with incredible food and a far more intimate setting. The spa is reserved for hotel guests only, and there are only 47 suites in total. Much more exclusive, and the F&B program here outshines Burgenstock. Great food (and Focus is incredible) plus the largest wine cellar in Switzerland. The spa is smaller but packs a punch. I have an older review on my profile I can pin for easy finding. Feel free to reach out about upgrades at time of booking, as long as you aren’t expecting to go from Mountain View to Lake View.
- Mandarin Oriental Lucerne: I love the MO, but I would only stay here for a very short stay or if walking distance to Lucerne’s city center is a priority. I personally think there is much more to do outside of the city, and being in town just makes me want to get out into the Alps, so the MO is never my first or second choice in this area, but it’s still a great property.
Final Thoughts
I loved this stay, especially for peak summer, or a good weather shoulder season stay in Lucerne when the views are at their absolute best. It’s a super fun place to get to, there is an incredible amount to do without ever leaving the property, and it’s still easy to hop on the boat and spend a day in Lucerne. If you’re booking, the Contemporary rooms are the way to go. If you’re active, love the outdoors, or want a big spa experience, this is your spot. If you’re after something quieter and more private, look at Vitznau, or split your stay between the two to get the best of both.
Please feel free to ask me anything, and reach out if you want your stay VIP’d!