‘91 ford f150 xlt lariat 5.8 v8 61k original miles for $8,000
Any ideas of what to do with it??? What are some good mods?

2in readylift level

Toyo open country ATlll

Method race wheels

Driving home in the dark after a 12 hour shift and an absolute unit of a moose ran right into my bumper. Just bought this truck a month ago. I have wildlife coverage thankfully, what’s next? Raptor?

4600’s. They are stiff and jarring. Every bump and dip is shit. I’m going back to stock asap. They are like clouds for street driving. I don’t understand the amazing reviews for these, they are horrible for daily driving and somehow millions of people across all vehicles use them every day I can’t see the appeal. The truck handles perfectly fine stock

2019 stx

Sold my 2013 XLT 5.0 to a family member and upgraded to a 2023 XLT 2.7 4x4 with just over 30k miles on it. Wife got tired of me borrowing her car for out-of-town work commutes and needed something better on gas (didn't need the power of the 5.0 as much as when I purchased).

Had a PPI and drove 5.5 hours to pick it up for $32.5k. Believe I got a great deal.

Thought id just share some pics of my project, a 2002 with a 4.2 v6 and 5 speed manual. Truck has 450,000km on it and im slowly turning it into a cool street truck.

Was hoping morimoto made some but none for this year yet. What’s the second best option? My XLT has LED’s but I can’t stand reflector type where lights scatter everywhere and blind others.

I drive a 2013 XLT with 250k miles. I'm getting unusually low RPMs when I'm not speeding up at 40-60mph, if I maintain speed, I only get about 1k RPMs rather than the usual just below 2k RPMs. When I get above 65, it starts getting closer to 2k, how bad is this? I think it's the torque converter, but taking it to a shop, all they did was check the codes and saw nothing wrong.

2020 f150 Lariat
I have regular mirrors with blis, have a puddle light, and arepowerfold. I want tow mirrors but the only ones I find that are powerfold are from boost auto and are ridiculously expensive

Does anyone know where I can find towing mirrors that retain my features? I don’t need power extend or forward spotlights or anything I just want to see my trailer better when towing

So was out hunting got my truck caught in a rut and body swayed against a stump poking out of the bush.. unfortunately landed in a terrible spot.. took it to a body shop I usually go to and they don’t even work on aluminum.. I don’t want to go through Insurance so looks like it will be out of pocket.. any estimates?

Had been chasing this problem for a long time had a upstream O2 sensor stuck at rich on both banks.
Replaced lots of parts already
-cat converter
-o2 sensor all 4
-evap purge valve
-injector
-coil packs
-spark plugs
-fuel diver module relay
-fresh engine oil and filter
-new engine air filter with maf sensor
-crankcase breather
What else should i check next?

Hi all, I recently got a 2018 STX V8 5L and it came with the hard cover from ford. It’s been great for family trips with kids luggage, bikes, etc, but I may be using the bed more for home projects etc. is this a good cover? Some of the vertical space is limited so not sure if any of the other market ones available do better for 1 - traveling with two toddlers and 2 - also doing home projects and carrying wood, furniture, pavers, etc

The speakers are absolute ass in this 14 speaker unleashed system. If I wanted to swap the speakers out on the doors does anyone know what size they are? 5x7? What about the tweeters? What's the best bang for my buck to just get better quality and overall volume? 2025 Lariat fyi.

2022 f150 3.5. Struggling with annoying brake pedal creak. Does anyone else have this issue? Anyone been able to isolate and resolve it?

Dealer diagnosed as internal to brake booster and quoted $7000 to replace. It’s not quite that annoying.

Mine didn't start how I wanted. Getting dropped off for repairs tomorrow.

I’ve got a 2017 F-150 King Ranch 5.0L with the 6R80 transmission, just shy of 100k miles. Had a pretty strange failure today and I’m curious if anyone has experienced something similar.
Was driving in traffic when the wrench light suddenly came on and the truck lost almost all ability to accelerate. Luckily, I was close to a parking lot.

The engine was still running, and I could feel the RPMs increasing when I pressed the accelerator, but the truck would only crawl along at maybe 5–10 mph regardless of throttle input. It almost felt like the transmission wasn’t transferring power, although I can’t say for certain.

I also noticed that the PRNDM21 gear indicator on the dash was no longer highlighting which gear I was in. All the letters were there, just no indication of the selected gear.
I managed to get parked, shut the truck off, and waited a few minutes. When I tried restarting, absolutely no luck.

Current symptoms:
Push-button ignition powers up the dash and electronics, but the engine won’t crank.
No engine response at all when attempting to start.
The wrench warning remains on with “See Manual.”
The gear indicator still doesn’t highlight Park, Neutral, or any other position.
The shifter physically moves between gears once the ignition is on.
I may have noticed a faint burning smell while limping into the parking lot, but I’m not 100% certain.
No obvious electrical issues, strange shifting, or other warning signs before this happened.

Here’s the interesting part: I had the transmission lead frame replaced by an independent transmission shop approximately 15k–20k miles ago because the truck was slipping between gears. It’s driven perfectly fine since that repair.
I had the truck flatbed-towed back to that same transmission shop tonight. They’ll take a look tomorrow.
I’m wondering whether this sounds like another lead-frame/range-sensor issue, a wiring or connector problem, a charging-system failure, or something more serious inside the transmission.

My two big questions:
Has anyone experienced this particular combination of symptoms, especially the missing gear indication followed by a no-crank condition? What ended up being the problem?
Is an independent transmission shop the right place to diagnose this, or does the combination of electrical and transmission symptoms suggest I should be taking it to a Ford dealer or a shop specializing in electrical diagnostics?
I’m hoping it’s something electrical rather than a cooked transmission, but I’m prepared for bad news.
Appreciate any thoughts, especially from Ford techs or anyone familiar with the 6R80.

2022 2.7L XLT w/ 66k miles. I do have an ESP on the vehicle.

Owned truck for nearly 2 years and 40k miles. Nearly the entire time the truck has had what I believe is wastegate rattle - typically would last anywhere from 45 sec - 2 minutes until vehicle warms up. Much worse on colder days. Sounds like a heat shield. Early on when I purchased the truck I took it into the dealer for this because this was an issue that didn't show up for about a week or so. Initially they told me heat shield, waited 2 months for the part to come in for them to replace it and tell me it wasn't that. Ultimately they replaced the driver side turbo and said problem was fixed. It wasn't, started right up again. I was told by the dealer that the noise is normal per Ford and that there is nothing more they can do. Wasn't impressed to hear that. Fast forward to now - noise is getting worse and is appearing at certain RPMs when driving. My question: is this normal wastegate rattle characteristics? Is there any sort of DIY solution that can be employed to reduce/remove the noise? It's getting pretty irritating and obnoxious. I've read about people mentioning using an E clip or a spring but that seems to be on the previous generation of 2.7s? I work with someone who has a 2023 2.7 and does not have this issue.

My next and more important question... This stems from not fully understanding cam phaser problems so I'm looking for clarification on whether I have a bigger issue than I realize or not. While cold starting my truck to help trace the wastegate rattle (just to confirm its coming from the turbo and not actually a broken heat shield) I noticed a distinct noise coming from the front of the engine that lasts about 3 seconds. Looked at a few videos online and it seems inline with cam phaser noises. Only difference being that the videos I see online present the noise as very loud, hard to miss and clattery. I attempted to record this noise and when listening to it back on my phone I can't even hear it which leads me to believe it can't be that severe. Is some noise normal? Or should it be zero noise other than standard startup noise? My gut tells me some noise is normal because of needing to build oil pressure at the top of the engine. Would love to hear from everyone else. This is only a cold start issue.

I have had a lot of issues with this truck in the 2 years I have owned it between the engine, the transmission, and recently the rear end. I'm fed up at this point but I really am not enticed with anything else on the market so I'm trying to hang with it and stay on top of issues. This truck fits all of my needs so well. While I do have an ESP on the vehicle, the dealerships by me makes it such a hassle to get the damn truck fixed that I avoid taking it in there unless I can confirm something is wrong and bring evidence to back up my case.

All help and suggestions are appreciated. Thank you for your time!

Brand new f150 not even 1k miles. I think it happened when the people did the bed liner but I have no proof.

I don’t know why I’m making this post. I’ve been drinking and I’m finally relaxing after a long week. Mounting some wolf box ditch lights this weekend. Anyone here in MN work for a shop that sells toppers or installs katskin? Only looking for the best.

Trying to go for a military look with the raptor liner

So many things wrong with my truck but if I could just figure out what this Whistling noise is coming from it is on the passenger side. and to get my belt to stop slipping I changed out the tensioner but it still slipping when accelerating and whistling also during acceleration I have no idea why. also whistles a little bit during idle if anybody can help me I would really appreciate it it also has the ac bypass, cam tick is getting worse and alternator in starting to go bad the battery is reading at 11.9 then i tested the wire on the back of the alternator and the voltage was below 0.03 which according to AI that's where it need to be

I found this on my 2024 F150. I unplugged it. The long cable goes behind the trim and to the floor towards the rear. Any idea what it is? I don’t thinks it’s OEM, but I could be wrong.

2025 5.0L F150

Anyone have any issues with sensors or error codes when they replaced their air filters with K&N ones?