I dont know if you can see but it turns on, except on the right side the screen inside is broken. Is this able to be fixed?? And if its fixable what parts do I need? Also the lens is either scratched or cracked. So please help!

Hey guys! I’m trying to source a new lcd screen for a baby monitor, but I’m having no luck! It’s 4.75”x2.5” in size.

Anyone got any suggestions!
Much appreciated.

Have had these Crusher Evos for years and they are my favorite headphones by far. Of course I had to drop them, and now they refuse to connect.

They were gifted to me years ago, but I'll do anything to get them up and running again.

When plugged in, music can only be heard on the right side, but both haptic drivers thump away. "Power on" still plays through both speakers, but it no longer says "pairing," nor does it appear in any bluetooth menu.

I took them apart but see nothing abnormal or disconnected. I'm thinking it's an issue with the motherboard itself. Any ideas?

Hello everyone. I would like to try to repair an Old Subwoofer. Can someone help me identifying this part?

The one with the "LT-Sub2" marking ripped off the board. I soldered it back to place and I am able to start the Subwoofer and get sound of it - so far so great. But over a certain level (volume/bass) it just turns itself to standby. The part I'm holding is part of the Power Switch - that do I know.

I think that part is the one that is broken.

It's a Teufel C200USB Set, the subwoofer a Teufel CC200SW If that matters.

I would really like to get it working again.

Thank you very much!

My 15 year old grandson likes to take old VCR’s, radios, and other electronics apart and try to figure out what’s going on. He was looking at Kline multimeters at Lowe’s tonight and wanted to get one. What is a solid but affordable one that would be good for him?

Who knew I’d get a backlight test point with my TV?

Looking for component-level diagnostic advice on a dead LattePanda Mu compute module (Intel N100).

The Failure:

• The module was running on its carrier board when a sudden hard power cut/outage occurred.
• Since the drop, the board is completely dead: no LEDs, no fan pulse, and no response to the power button.
• The carrier board itself is confirmed fully operational (tested and runs properly with an i3-N305 module).
• The SPI BIOS chip was already cleanly reflashed externally with official dumps, but it made no difference.

Hardware Findings & Attempted Fix:

• Inspecting the power circuitry, I found a missing ceramic SMD capacitor sitting in parallel right opposite a large polarized bulk capacitor (marked with a + and labeled WE8/EE7).
• We soldered a replacement 1uF ceramic capacitor onto the empty pads, but the board still will not turn on or draw power.

Questions:

1. Based on the bulk cap markings (WE8/EE7) and standard x86 compute module layouts, what rail is this stage filtering (main 12V DC input, or a primary 5V/3.3V buck rail)?
2. In an abrupt power cut, is it common for the polarized bulk capacitor (left) or an adjacent high-side switching FET to fail short alongside a blown ceramic cap?
3. What key resistance checks relative to ground should I probe next around this circuit to identify why power isn't sequencing?

We recently bought a Siglent 4 channel scope to replace our old trusty Rigol.
One of the challenges we had is that the equipment shelf is a bit of a reach since our bench is deep.
This cheap (mostly) DIY solution made a night and day difference!
The ability to move the scope all around the bench, bring it closer to the DUT, especially when probing those hard to reach areas, and easily move it out of the way with one hand, is a life changer!

The arm is a standard gas spring VESA monitor arm that you can get on Amazon for ~$35.
The Siglent VESA mount adapter was 3D printed using PETG-CF, from a free tried and tested design by printables user aeberbach. It's an ingenious design that uses the scope's handle as a lock mechanism for the bracket.

After using it for a while, we figured that we were missing 2 things - a handy storage compartment to for probe attachments, clips, etc., and a probe hanger to solve the unavoidable messy entanglements of the probe wires.

Then we thought, "why not add a DMM to the bracket?" so we did.
Our trusty vintage HP DMM was way too big and heavy, so we settled for a cheap XDM1041 digital DMM that works well for most of our daily needs. They come under different brand names, but are all the same.

Then we designed a bracket that attaches under the scope mount, and you can see the results after several iterations and improvements. It has a convenient accessory compartment, and a probe hanger for all 4 probes on the right.

If anyone is interested in the print files for it, let us know and we'll share it online for free of course. The idea can be adapted to any small DMM that you already have, but the files we have are specific to this model so we weren't sure if anyone would be interested.

Have a great weekend!

Hello, has anyone here ever replaced the cells inside the LP-E4 battery pack? If so, were you successful? I've swapped mine out, but I believe it'll need some calibration, but I don't think I can force a calibration myself.....the charger has charged the battery pack, but the camera still shows it as empty, so looks like it's out of calibration of some sort!......thanks.

I have a 43 inch atleast 10 year old AOC television and recently I see this dark speck on the bottom left corner. It's not always present. I can read subtitles/see the picture through that speck. Can anyone tell me what that is and how does that happen? How to get it corrected? Thanks.

Hi there.

I had created some Fluke 190 series parts for 3d printing. It was photogrametry scaned and restored by CAD. These parts tested for realy scopemeter of my customer.

These items you can find on Cults3d and CGtraider for ask "Fluke"