i have a 2003 1500 with a 5.9L and 46RE transmission automatic, there is a seal between the torque converter and tranny that i cannot source, called dealerships, lordco, rock auto, and cannot find anything that fits or looks right

my 2006 ram mirrors are not adjusting, the windows, locks on both doors work. ive swapped out the driver side control/buttons to an amazon and still does the same thing.

any ideas to troubleshoot this?

New to me 2023 TRX Havoc Edition

My 2 babies.

19 big ram, 96 eclipse. I need help with the eclipse.

Trying to make safely four hundred horsepowers who can throw some ideas ⚔️ #ram #eclipse #powerupgrade #horsepowerboost #tuningideas

The Build and Price Configurator is now up and running for the Ram 1500 Rumble Bee 5.7. Robert S. Miller of r/MoparInsiders has a lot more.

Howdy fellas, I’m hoping y’all can help me out here. I’ve got a 2018 3.6L 1500 with 57,000 miles on it. About a month ago my check engine light came on so I read the code and got P26AB - which from what I see indicates the thermostat control circuit or the heater bypass valve. I was a little short on cash from paying for some classes for school so I needed to wait until my next check. The day before I got paid the light turned off on its own so I went about my business and kept an eye on engine and oil temps. All temps remained perfectly within standard operating range, even with me commuting 30 miles both ways. I take the truck out on weekends and do some light off-roading on sandy trails to get to fishing spots and never have any temperature issues

A week ago the light came back, same code again, and now it’s off again. Anybody have any idea what’s going on here? Just wanted to check if there’s any possible fix before I go buying parts that don’t necessarily need to be replaced. I’m a bit of a novice here and a poor college student so any advice would be appreciated 😂

No exhaust system

Vehicle: Ram 1500
* Years: 2019–2026
* Size: 18 × 8 inches
* Bolt pattern: 6×139.7 mm (6×5.5”)
* Offset: +19.05 mm
* Material: Aluminum alloy
* Style: 5-spoke
* OEM part #: 5YD45TRMAA
* Hollander/interchange #: 2669
has some 275/70R18 tires on them, on of the tires needs to be replaced but the other got decent tread. $500 OBO 📍powder springs GA

2001 Ram 1500 SLT
5.9L Magnum
Long Bed
Ext Cab
46k miles

My truck almost always requires that I crank it a 2nd time before it’ll start. Sometimes it struggles to start more than others.

My mechanic BIL told me it was likely that it’s the fuel filter that needs to be changed. It’s also my understanding that the you have to swap out the entire fuel pump, you can’t just swap the filter on these Gen 2s.

Anyone run into this issue before? Any guidance is appreciated as I hope to keep this truck in pristine condition.

Hey all, being a little paranoid over here right now. About two months ago my transfer case went kablam and took out the transmission and some fuel lines. There was no symptoms before hand, was driving around 75 and a small hum began and within 2 minutes the transfer case exploded and the front drive shaft fell out and smacked the transmission.

I have had everything replaced and looked over. I'm still getting a small vibration at highway speeds and the PTSD of getting stuck on the side of the road is making me paranoid that the replacement t case is going bad already.

2010 dodge ram 2500 with about 90k miles on it. V8 motor.

Hey. Looking at this 2017 Ram 1500 Sport. I'll need to pull the Carfax but drove well, couldn't drive much, was low on gas.

105k miles on it.

Hi, I have a 2004 dodge ram 1500 slt hemi with the 545rfe trans 175k miles on original trans/engine/chassis. The issues I'm starting to develop happened earlier today, when driving my truck normally, not aggressively really at all, my truck flared noticeably when shifting into the 1st overdrive gear, it shifted smoothly but flared, then it shifted fine into the 2nd overdrive gear. Only did it once today and when I had to slow down then get back up to speed it shifted into overdrive gears just fine no flaring or harsh shifts. This was after driving it maybe 10 minutes home from the gym. Then as soon as I got home today, I pulled into my driveway and when I did, I went to reverse to straighten my truck out and when I shifted into reverse from drive, trucks rpms dropped down aggressively to 100rpm and almost stalled, never did this before and right after it nearly stalled, truck started loping like it had a cam, rpms were bouncing on tachometer from like 100rpm to 150ish rpm, mind you, trucks completely stock. Then after that I just left it be in park and shut it off.

Yesterday though, I drove my truck probably an hour straight into another city and was driving my truck around there aswell from store to store, truck definitely was hot, it does not overheat but I was driving my truck 3 out of 5 hours I was gone yesterday which I usually never drive truck that much. It shifted fine and everything no flaring or bs but drove it lots yesterday. I was also having some fun with it as I had a buddy with me and we seen some cool cars and were trying to keep up and have fun with it, this is how I've always been with it since I got it 26k miles ago ish. No overheating at all what so ever. When I say fun, not like launching from a dig mashing throttle, but cruising and downshifting a gear or two and just letting her eat a little bit on a straightaway.

!! A few months ago I did a trans fluid and both filters change on my truck, drained about half of the fluid and fluid was not burnt at all and had a very normal amount of clutch debris in sump filter, I put everything back on right, nothing was over tightened and filled up about as much as I drained. Truck drove fine and almost shifted smoother afterwards for a few months. Although I did over fill trans fluid a little bit past hot marks truck has shifted fine and smoothly all the way up to today. I do have a pretty worn torque converter though, I haven't had much issues with it at all other than a rougher shift that happened awhile ago only one single time. Also no trans leaks either at the moment.

Not sure the issue with my truck going to drain some fluid out today and get to the exact hot marks on my trans dipstick and see if that helps. I'm thinking mixture of worn torque converter and slightly overfilled trans fluid causing aeration and slightly sticking torque converter. I'm no mechanic but I'm knowledgeable and do a lot of research when it comes to issues and fixing it. And yes my trans fluid is perfectly fine looking in the color and trans fluid is not burnt smelling or looking after today's odd flares and rpm drops in driveway. Also do not think my engine had anything to do with rpms dropping as engines fine, no oil burning, nothing odd, new plugs, doesn't lose fuel pressure, air box is clean and everything. No codes were thrown either for trans. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated, thinking its torque converter and if so I'ma just get a high stall torque converter and replace it. THANKS FOR READING!

Got a perfect fit and everything is snug. Waiting in some switches to come in and test the fit of those.

I have this idea of going with a modular faceplate to fit various different switches, pods, gauges, usb plugs etc. then a rail system above it for a phone mount, dash cam, construction light bars.

Stay tuned for v2 !

So recently brought a truck off Facebook, relatively low miles for a 30 year old truck. Drove great the first 2 weeks but went to hop in it the other day and I won’t stay idling unless I press the gas. It cranks fine but dies pretty much immediately if I don’t have my foot on the gas. I asked ai and it said it sounds like a aic valve but I want to ask the pros. What’s your diagnosis and how would you go about fixing it? If it’s the aic valve or throttle body should I replace it or can I just clean them? LMK thanks

This is only a prototype for now. The fit is finally snug. I know that AEV has their own model for $120 but it only fits a certain switch. I want to create interchangeable faceplates to cover a variety of different switches or the amount of ports. I’ll eventually make one for an AUXbeam switch board too.