r/DestructiveReaders • u/Conscious-Muffin-656 • 21m ago
Non-Fiction [1861] Baaaarby (Travel/Non-Fiction)
My Critique [2058]: https://www.reddit.com/r/DestructiveReaders/s/I5ifUIrDJi
Hello! My first post here. I'm in the process of starting a Substack of travel stories of mine. This will be the first and I'd love to know if you think it's suitable. I'm not a baby writer, but I don't have much experience in Literary Non-Fiction (is this Literary Non-Fiction?).
Baaaarby
United Kingdom, June 2026: I like the idea of having a pet. A cat, better two, or a dog that looks a bit funny. I like the idea of putting fresh laundry on the balcony on a sunny day. My eternal enemy in life is boredom, so I love changing up my flat. I also like living in the middle of everything, where I can leave my flat and see life happening around me. Ideally, I’d live next to a downtown park where I can lie down in the summer to read or listen to music.
If I lived in the Barbican, I wouldn't have any of that. I wouldn’t be allowed, or it wouldn’t be possible. Somehow, I couldn’t care less. If I was offered a lease there (which unfortunately will never happen), I wouldn’t think twice about accepting. I’d barely think once before signing that contract. I’d move in before I can finish spelling the word ‘Brutalism’.
Before today, the Barbican was nothing more than a place I had heard about. A footnote in a modern architecture class I took at university. The topic of a TikTok thinkpiece that I watched completely but never thought about again. The first two times I came to London I didn’t even consider visiting it. This time, on a day when my London host and buddy Felix is working, I thought why not. I‘ve already seen all the landmarks one has to see when in London. Why not check out the Barbican.
I’m standing in the lobby of the Barbican Centre and the Barbican walking tour I booked will begin in an hour. To keep my mind open, I didn’t do any research and barely know where I am. Reaching the lobby already meant getting lost. In a way, I've already done my own walking tour, taken lots of pictures and soaked up the vibes. I have some ideas, but generally, I didn't understand what I was walking through.
To me, it seemed like an unusually quiet and empty part of London that lacked greenery. The overwhelming amount of concrete and distinctive sameness across all the buildings made it feel vaguely imposing and aggressive. I looked at a free art exhibition I found in a corner, a kind of mud hut with a strong cinnamon scent. I'm sure it was relevant, but its relevance didn't reveal itself to me.
I’m not alone in the lobby, not at all. There are hundreds of giddy young adults in shiny graduation robes running around. There must be some kind of event here today. Honestly, the frenetic energy is a bit much for me. I came here seeking a low-stimulation, intellectual escape after a physically and socially intense week spent reuniting with friends all over the UK.
I can’t even hide inside my phone, because I’m on 13 per cent battery. I still have two to three hours of tour ahead of me and I want to take pictures. I also need my phone to find my way back to Felix’s flat afterwards. I know London, but I don’t know it like that.
I spend some minutes begging everyone working here for a charger or an outlet. It results in nothing besides me getting annoyed at the Barbican employees who refuse to help me. In a last attempt, I buy an overpriced brownie in the Barbican canteen in the hopes of finding an outlet there.
This works and I finally find electricity, only to discover that my EU to UK adapter doesn’t work anymore. I surrender to 13 per cent battery and eat my brownie while staring into the void. There’s nothing, absolutely nothing I can do to avoid looking at robed students celebrating and having the time of their lives.
Time passes unbearably slowly but eventually, the students leave to attend their actual graduation ceremony and I make my way to the walking tour meeting spot. It starts next to the shop that I have browsed extensively. Of course, I’ve already bought an overpriced tote bag. Is everything in London overpriced? Or am I poor?
The walking tour begins, ending my eternity of purposelessness. We’re about ten people, but I don’t care much about anyone else. In the past, I’ve used walking tours to find friends. Back when I was a lonely solo traveller. Currently, I have the opposite problem of nearly excessive pleasant company.
Instead, I’m locked in on our guide, a very British and surprisingly young man who speaks fast but with great precision and knowledge. Again, it makes me remember other walking tours and how, in some countries where English isn’t common, language can be a problem. Today, I will understand everything. I’m not lonely. My phone won’t distract me. I couldn’t be any more prepared to learn about the Barbican. It better be interesting.
The guide starts by covering the basic facts about the Barbican that I already know. Earlier, when I couldn’t bear looking at more happy graduates, I’d used two per cent of my battery to read a basic summary of the Barbican’s history.
Contrary to popular belief, the Baaaarby (I pronounce this with a ridiculous British accent in my head, and I also don’t think anyone else calls it that) was not built as social housing. It was built by the city in the 60s and 70s in a very central location in London that had been flattened in the war. It was always intended to appeal to a more affluent audience.
Under Thatcher in the 80s, most of it was sold to the people living there. In the 2000s, it was voted London’s ugliest building. Now, it’s trendier again. I’m unsure if that makes me basic because I’m following a trend or cool because I’m with the zeitgeist. Sadly, this is not something my guide can help me figure out.
Instead, he tells us that prices here are extortionate, even for London. There is a waitlist for the few flats still owned by the council, but it can take decades. This knowledge sparks something in me. How epic would it be to live here. In London’s ugliest building. In one of the world's most accomplished Brutalist projects. Maybe I’m a victim of scarcity economics. Maybe this is just the first time I’m considering the Barbican as a place where people actually live.
As we’re leaving the Barbican Centre to explore more of the estate, I can’t help but disagree that the Barbican is ugly. It’s definitely too much concrete and the ground would benefit tremendously from being unsealed. People in the 60s must’ve hated grass. But the buildings are so unique and have so much personality. It might be a rather aggressive personality. But it’s beginning to win me over.
From the outside, all the concrete walls have a stone-like finish that makes Brutalism purists say that the Barbican isn’t actually Brutalist, as that would require untreated concrete. I learn that said finish was achieved in a torturous hand-hammering process that left many of the (apparently mostly Black) construction workers with respiratory diseases and permanent nerve damage in their hands. The guide tells us this in between other curious bits about the Barbican. Fun fact! This place was built on exploitation. Moving on.
Many of the buildings have colorful red and yellow geraniums on their balconies and it helps tremendously in reducing the aggressive vibe of all the concrete. Our guide explains that all people living in the Barbican are supposed to keep geraniums on their balconies. Reducing the oppressiveness of the Barbican through dictating flower choices. I like it.
We continue walking to areas I had already seen when I was lost in the Barbican two hours earlier. We stop where, when I still had battery, I took a sneaky but epic photo of a man sunbathing shirtless on the plain concrete. He had put his shirt to cover his eyes, so he couldn’t see me being very inconsiderate of his privacy. I couldn’t help but capture him being so human in the hostile geometry of the Barbican. The idea of owning a luxury flat in the Barbican but sunbathing on plain concrete in public. I like it.
It turns out that this spot used to be the Barbican’s main entrance. Only a grand staircase remains as a remnant of that. Sadly, everyone ended up using a different entrance that was originally intended for truck deliveries. Accordingly, that one became the main one. Because of that, the Barbican layout doesn’t quite make sense today. It gives me way too much joy knowing that I wasn’t lost because I’m stupid, but because the Barbican (reminder: a Brutalist masterpiece) is a little bit of a mess.
The guide also explains that the architects were very inspired by Italy and Egypt and there are lots of references to both places in the way the Barbican is built. From a certain angle, the grand staircase looks like the Sphinx. I can’t help but ask myself “Why?!” but I don’t dare ask this idiosyncratic question. I’m sure they had their reasons. It just seems a little nerdy to me. Some of Britain’s smartest men looking at 4,000-year-old sphinxes and pyramids and thinking “Hell yeah, we need more of that vibe for our concrete estate.”
Over the course of the next two hours, more and more of these absurdities reveal themselves. No pets in the flats, and the original waste management system doesn’t really work. No major rearrangements of the rooms. Heating is centrally controlled. Barbican citizens gain access to private parks but can’t bring a ball or play loud music there.
It’s all a bit silly, but together with the Barbican’s oppressive looks, I find it very endearing. Maybe it was the shirtless man on the concrete. Maybe it’s the guide telling of the reality of actually living here. Maybe it’s the graduates filling it with frantic excitement. But underneath the excessive concrete, the Barbican is embarrassingly human.
Making it large and imposing couldn’t stop the Barbican from being human. Overcomplexity and random Egyptian references couldn’t stop it either. Even the endlessly strict rules can’t change it. The Barbican, built as a carless utopian district for rich people, is a mess.
It’s a mess and it’s human and it keeps changing and so do the people that keep using it in ways it wasn’t intended to be used. All the concrete gives it a sense of lifelessness, like it’s trying to hide its humanity. But it can’t. It’s a district-size showcase that nothing we build can ever be anything other than human. No amount of intellect or money or power can change it. It’s both tragic and beautiful, and surprisingly funny. Shakespearean, one might even say.
Despite being on five per cent battery (I couldn’t resist taking more pictures), I’m euphoric after the walking tour. I loved the Barbican more than I ever expected. I want to live here even though I might hate it because it’s impractical. Realistically, I won’t ever be able to afford living here. Realistically, I should focus on finding the right tube to take me home.
It’s all a bit absurd. But so deliciously human.